Hey all,
any ideas why EatPM will not start a game when start button is pressed? It boots fine and enters attract mode fine. Start switch is good.
Thanks!
(Topic ID: 81677)
Linked Games
Elvira and the Party Monsters
Bally, 1989
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mr_outlane.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from koji:Got credits? 3 balls in trough?
-Yes, 3 new balls.
Well, talk about bad luck...
I go down to investigate the settings to see if the game somehow got reset when I was poking around in the service menu the other day and no longer in Free Play, and both displays quit working. So now I can't even use the service menu to trouble shoot.
Could the interconnect board cause this? Or would it just be the CPU/Driver board assuming it's not something else like cables etc?
Thanks!!
I see the Williams System 9 - 11 PinWiki states that the later interconnect boards (EatPM) pass the following circuits:
- lamp general illumination circuits
- flipper power and ground
- lamp columns and rows
- switch columns and rows
- flash lamp power
** It says nothing about the display circuits. Would I be correct in assuming the interconnect board plays no role in displays not working?
- You guys were right. I flicked the coin mech wires and it put credits on it and now I can start games. It must have reset to factory when I was poking around in service menu blind.
- Unplugged and replugged ribbon cables. No luck.- Still have no displays. Either a bad connection or a cpu/driver board problem?
Quoted from Jrotten:If you go with XPin displays you can eliminate F1,2,& 3. Not needed.
I was planning on replacing the power supply with an Xpin PS and selling this old one on Ebay.
Then installing the Wolffpac display kit because it's cheaper and I'm good at soldering.
I like the green!!
Also, BG looks really great!
Wolffpac make the various colors as well.
https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/bally-midway-d-12502-and-d-12706-display-kits
Quoted from Jrotten:XPin is plug & play. I don’t know much about Wolfpack. I think that’s more involved with soldering. I also got rid of all the chrome & red on the head. Powder coated armor & ramps.
Yes, you have to solder all the components to the PCB's. But it's all layed out super easy if you like to solder! See link above. I did a kit for my Sorcerer.
2 months later
So, the "E" and "L" on ELVIRA are always lit at start of game. What is the most likely cause? I'm thinking switch or lamp matrix.
Thanks!
Thanks for the help fellas! 
It's not my game. A friend of mine is keeping it at my house because he lacks the space. I'm fixing it up for him. It's now 100% payable, but I didn't learn the game before asking.. 
I have another question?
Is it normal for the ball to exit the right orbit and always bounce off the right sling top bumper and go towards the left out-lane area? This is a huge issue on this machine. Very often, a hard nudge is required to keep it from draining to the point that I had to nearly disable the tilt bob. Seems wrong??
The table is level side to side and at correct pitch.
Thanks!
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Nope, not normal. I'd look at maybe adjusting the ball guide rail on that orbit?
I looked at it and can't imagine how it is so off? This will require some serious adjusting somehow. 
Quoted from guitarded:Soft plunge, too?
Soft plunge should feed the Right Flipper just about perfectly.
Yes, a soft plunge lands directly on the top bumper of right sling.
I'm not sure what to adjust. I'll have to experiment.
Any advice appreciated! 
1 week later
Quoted from guitarded:Ripping my PF down for a swap right now...and looking at this, I would check the guide to make sure it is sitting 90 degrees to the PF.
IF you can't loosen the tabs and move the end of the guide out further AND the guide is square to the PF, I would start by lightly bending the top of the guide in towards the ball path a little at a time until I achieved the proper/desired feed.
Only other option is to fill the existing holes and re-drill new ones to relocate the guide.
OK, I found the problem...
A previous hack job where they broke off one of the screw heads at the bolt down tab at bottom of ball guide. They drilled new holes and remounted it and threw the whole thing off. I fixed it. Plays great now!
So now a fast ball down the right orbit goes right to the right flipper and a slow ball will hit the right slingshot in the middle rather than the top bumper rubber.
I'm assuming this is correct?
So, I am replacing the broken Monster Slide Exit Ramp. Is it just easier to pull the playfield to do this? What a PITA!
It looks better without the gate there IMO.
So, am I understanding correctly that the Cliffy ramp protectors cause issue with the roll under gates?
I just got the Cliffys in the mail yesterday.
Quoted from dudah:Made this out of 1/8" PETG so it will hopefully survive the pops. Green is UV reactive. Message me if you need one.
[quoted image]
Cool!
Now tell us how you did this please?
Anyone know if Party Monsters came with carrot flippers or not? They're about 3.5 mm longer in length overall. Not sure if this means they're longer from shaft to tip though?
Thanks!
Quoted from guitarded:Elvira arrived with the goofy striated/barred top yellow Williams flippers.
Ya, carrot flippers then?
Mylar was bubbling up at pop cluster area...
Removed Mylar and glue from that area.
Kinda looks like I removed her panties! 
Now on to touchup painting..
* After Novus2 and Naptha, I had to resort to Magic Eraser and 91% alcohol to remove crud (very carefully)!
20230207_173507 (resized).jpg20230207_193604 (resized).jpg
20230207_170438 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Pinkitten:It did for me. The Cliffy for the right side of the Monster Slide ramp attaches at the screw where the switch is. When you add the extra thickness of the Cliffy, it can affect how much room there is for the switch arm to work. I couldn’t get mine to reliably work. So I ordered an MRS switch and that worked out great. But it might not be an issue for your ramp or for other people. See how it goes when you install the Cliffy.
So, this wasn't an issue on the right ramp? Wondering if I need to replace both or not?
Thanks!
Quoted from RandyW:Well that went better than expected!! But it is going to take forever to get all the glue off.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like I may as well pull all the mylar as well. Bubbles in a at least a couple dozen places.
Quoted from Beechwood:Very nice. I have to do this as well. Part of me wants to just get a new play field. Part of me thinks I'm just nuts all the way around.
Problem with new playfields is holes not in correct location (slightly off). Can be a real PITA!
Question for you guys?
My "Collect Boogie Bonus" insert below saucer has sunk down into playfield at an angle causing ball to hop and wear edge. I was thinking about filling the gap with Plastic Surgery Super Glue... https://www.amazon.com/SureHold-Plastic-Surgery-Super-Glue/dp/B004M599ME Rock hard, dries clear.
Seems a lot easier than removing and reinstalling it. Bad idea? This area will have new Mylar over it.
Quoted from RandyW:Yea it is. The easy way is almost always a bad idea. You will do irreparable damage, versus fixing it right.
If you are going to take the easy route, using something reversible, like everbrite. Dries crystal clear and rock hard, but alcohol will easily remove it. I use it for cupped inserts.
$30.00 for 4oz?
Since it's only one insert, I'll do it the hard way!
Quoted from tiltmonster:Spectacular!
Ya, mine is coming along beautifully too. I couldn't believe how nice the playfield was once I removed the main Mylar. Almost ready to reassemble everything. Going to rebuild the drop target bank today. Waiting for pop bumper parts. Still need to first rivet parts onto the new ramps and install the MRS on left ramp. All new plastics and rubbers going in too. Lots of fun!
20230216_173120 (resized).jpg20230216_194812 (resized).jpgHere's what I use for polishing all the metal ball guides etc..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4DK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00
Here's what I did with the topper plastic that came with the new plastic set... I wired it through the cab switch to turn on and off with machine. 12v wall wart and extension cable required. Topper base is attached to top of backbox with velcro.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VQDJ5TX
20230109_144752 (resized).jpg20230109_144816 (resized).jpg20230109_144823 (resized).jpg
So, how much does Kruzman charge roughly?
What is the difference in quality compared to a new CPR repro? I'm assuming easier installation as it's the same playfield and I'm also assuming a better clearcoat?
Thanks!
Quoted from Jrotten:That I don’t know but I believe an air ball would roll off regardless.
Which is why I just changed my comment.
So where do you get the pop bumper ring rod for Elvira PM? The manual calls for A-4754 which is not the one I have. It doesn't have the attached tubes that the pop caps screw into. Marco sells the number listed in manual (link below) and I ordered it for nothing. No way to attach pop bumper caps. 
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-4754
From Manual... Which doesn't even show the pop caps.
Also, a pic of what I have...
20230207_170420 (resized).jpg20230225_165323 (resized).jpg20230225_165336 (resized).jpg
Quoted from guitarded:Yep. A-4754 are Unobtanium.
A-4754 is not the correct part. It is a modern Williams rod ring assembly missing the two threaded posts attached to the ring for pop cap screws to mate to. See link above.
The correct part number is A-12854
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12854
Quoted from Jrotten:So I have this game & can you do this if the upper studs are broken off. Where they were mounted, drill a hole through that part of the ring, get a 6/32” threaded post cut to height size, install a 6/32” screw & lock washer from the bottom up into new post. After that install your bumper cap with 6/32” screws from top down. I’m sure welding new studs on will be the best but not everyone has access to that. I haven’t tried the method I explained but just some thoughts on these rings. John
Thank you for that. But here's what happened..
Both the treaded posts were destroyed. One was split and couldn't even take a screw. The other was stripped. One rod was also stripped where it connects to wafer. So, I planned to replace it. I looked at manual and got part number. Went to Marco and found it in stock and placed it in shopping cart. Then threw the old one out. F*cking manual was wrong and listed the wrong part number. Now I find out it's unobtanium! My fault for throwing it out!
What I plan to do is just use the new rod ring missing the post tabs and cut two pieces of wooden dowel and bolt them to the body on each side. Drill pilot holes in dowels and use wood screws to attach cap. The cap won't go up and down, but that means no stress on it. I'll hide it behind the organ plastic where it won't be seen much. Simple fix! 
Quoted from Jrotten:Sounds good. If you’re gonna do that with wood maybe find the metal threaded posts like they use on ramps or spotlight kits. Send pics of progress. J
I chose a dowel as I can mate it's diameter to the contour of the plastic body. Also, this makes it much easier to run a bolt though to the plastic body. The cap will not ever lean to one side this way. I will post pics when done.
Quoted from Jrotten:Here is another idea using the new style ring. Kinda ok. I made up a piece of perforated band iron & fastened it to the side, then drill holes correct distance apart for bumper cap. But I think your dowel method will work. Also tried to drill & tap in first pic, not happening.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
LOL! Far out! At least it moves up and down. 
This works OK with just the one side?
Quoted from Jrotten:I only did one side to show you another option. I would do both no question, the distance apart is the same as the rods for the bumper cap. The reason would be so the cap can still go up & down. It’s only a quick rough put together as an option. Also you should have bulb clearance. Both rods for sure.
Having two would depend on whether or not it will hit the ball? I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure off hand.
Quoted from Jrotten:Yea I hear that, just use a flatter pan head style screw & it won’t matter. I just threw it together with what I had. The screw on the outside holding the bracket will be flush with a different screw. At least there are options. Post pics of which way you go.
Thanks much!!
I also thought about setting another ring (see link below) onto the existing ring turned 90 degrees and JB welded. That would provide the extra tabs to mount posts to at the correct spacing. Would add some weight for sure. Might need a stronger spring.
Speaking of powder coat, the coin door is beat up and needs a repaint. Is powder coat the way to go? I could just clean it up and hit it with Rustoleum.
If powder coat, is it best to send it to a company that does pinball powder coating, or anyone in the local area? I never did this before.
Thanks!
Quoted from RandyW:Before I had mine welded up, I had intended to take them to a local machine shop and have 100 or so made up. But I have other uses for the money.
Take one of your existing ones to a machine shop and see if they will replicate it for you. It is an extremely simple assembly and shouldn't be difficult for a competent shop to duplicate.
I will look into it.
Thanks!
Quoted from Jrotten:Spray paint is fine. Powder is awesome looking. I did mine in Jamaican Ice color. Has a little green fleck to it. Also did wire ramps.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
WOW!! That is sweet! 
Quoted from Pinkitten:Steve at Pinball Refinery does an excellent job. He’s in Muskegon. He’s pretty high end, not especially cheap, but certainly high quality. If you can find a local powder coater, you can prob save some bucks. You’ll want the coin door media blasted to take it down to bare metal first. Steve does that first. But you can certainly try doing it yourself and painting the door. It’s awesome seeing pins restored and returned to the pinball community.
That's exactly who I had in mind.
Quoted from Jrotten:Spray paint is fine. Powder is awesome looking. I did mine in Jamaican Ice color. Has a little green fleck to it. Also did wire ramps.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Are those the original coin door buttons?
I might replace mine as they are somewhat beat up. I would like to replace with original or at least original decals. Anyone know where to get them?
Thanks!
Well, the local machine shops didn't have time to fab me a ring rod, so I went ahead with my stationary jury rig using the available A-4754 ring-rod assembly..
01 (resized).jpg02 (resized).jpg03 (resized).jpg04 (resized).jpg05 (resized).jpg
** I wound up a tad short on the dowels, so I just used a couple plastic spacers (shaved down) between cap and dowels because I didn't want the ring-rod slamming on the bottom of cap... I allowed for a small gap about 1/8" (not seen in pic).
1 week later
Quoted from RandyW:Ok, where on earth does this connector go? I know it is right in front of my face, but for two days, I haven’t been able to find it.
[quoted image]
LOL!
To your knocker in top right of back box. It's really dark up in there!
Now that I got mine all back together, I have a dead head stationary target, right sling and the lamp in center of pop cluster not working. Can't find anything wrong with them. So, it's got to be either bad IDC connectors or broken wires under insulation. I hate these f*cking IDC connectors!
Added 13 months ago:Lamp is fixed.
But can't find problem with dead head target and right sling. It's in the interconnect board somewhere dammit!
Any advice before I pull it?
Thanks!
Turned out to be the 18pin IDC connector on Interconnect board. Replaced with Molex and Trifurcon crimps. Pop cluster lamp was an intermittent socket.
Quoted from RandyW:I’m ordering all the bits I need to fix the alkaline damage on my board. But I can’t find these in the manual. What is the item marked as B? Is it the same as the cap in C57?
*Edit*
Nevermind I found it. It is the same as cap C59
[quoted image]
That's a lot of work!
Might want to try Quik Chip SMT Removal Alloy Kit for this job unless you have a good desoldering gun. I use it for removing male headers. Works great and it's on sale here!
https://www.amazon.com/Fast-Quik-Chip-Removal-Alloy/dp/B015YL1FFS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
Quoted from Beechwood:Awe shit, really? I ordered the RD from pinball life.
Easier to remove the service switch panel and solder on wire leads to splice later after you reinstall switch panel.
I put the last Rottendog MPU bpoard that they made in a F-14 (system 11A) with no issues at all. But that was the last generation board they had with the daughter sound board that was needed on all but System 11C. It also didn't work for System 11 nothing. This new model covers all of them (thus why more expensive), so not sure of reliability.
1 month later
Quoted from RandyW:Yea, I would NEVER suggest to one of my clients that I build a board for them. I would tell them to be patient and wait on theirs to come. But, I do this in my downtime. I've kept track of the time and costs, so I can show my clients why they should just be patient
So, you bought the PCB from Dumbass?
Damn! I didn't think the components would cost that much! Maybe use a lot less IC sockets? Those aren't cheap!
5 months later
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Round Lake, IL
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mr_outlane.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
