Just finished lighting up the boogie men. It is a really simple thing to do and cheap.
In case you are interested you need two Pop Bumper lamp socket, 12" insulated stranded wire leads.

Here are some pictures of the modification.
After soldering the sockets in parallel and attaching 18" of connecting wire and alligator clips,
the sockets are inserted into the tubes from the top. Bend the wires up over the top and then down the back. Secure it with some black tape.
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I put some 3/4 inch shrink tubing over the wire and tubes and added a plastic clip to hold the wires in place on the playfield.
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I ran the alligator clips and wire down through the hole just behind the boogie men. The clips are hooked to one of the 44/47 bulbs in the boogie man area.
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The boogie men need to be the translucent ones that are being sold at various places as replacements. I use these boogie men on both Scared Stiff and EATPM (I lit the SS boogie men so they fire when the slings are hit).
Here is how they look on Elvira. It really draws attention to them and helps light a dark area.
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Took your advice and solder it, then went to my TAF and soldered four mods I had in there. Thanks.

Have any of you ever removed the speaker panel from the backbox on EATPM? I want to add some speaker lighting. Can it be removed by just removing the screws on the top and underneath it? Just thought I'd ask before I started messing with it.

Do you remember if the screw were "star" screws with a pin in the middle of the star? Is there a special driver head for removing these screws? I am guessing they are some type of security screw head. None of my standard driver heads work.

I am looking for the best way to tap 12vdc on my EATPM for the lit shooter housing and lit leg protector mods. I see on page 3-21 of the manual, under Backbox Interconnect Board, that 2J2-1 is 12vdc. This leaves the board and goes to a three pin molex connector just below the board. Would it work to put a splitter at this connector to power these mods? Does anyone see problems doing this? Thanks.

Is there a good way to determine how much extra load a voltage source point can handle?

I have a couple of switch problems I am hoping fellow party monsters can help me with. The first is switch 30, left ramp entry. I replaced this switch with a DB3 replacement and attached the old arm. It still does not work. I attached a photo to see if someone can confirm that I connected it correctly (wires and diode direction). And can you tell me how this is supposed to work when doing a continuity check? Maybe I got lucky and received a bad switch.
The other switch is #56 which is Flip Up2 open. It is shown as being behind the KOOK coffin but I don't see how to check it or get to it.
Could someone give me some guidance?

SOLVED: The arm on switch 30 was closing the switch at rest. Adjusting the bend took care of this. I took the cover off of the coffin assembly and then the assembly itself and found that the diode had come loose from the switch lug. I soldered it back on and now there are no switch errors.

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