Best reply ever!

Glad you got it mostly fixed. I'm sure I've also made a shortcut or two that made someone else cringe.

And you're right: it won't be in my house, so I won't see the defects. Hopefully you are happy with it.

DarthPaul
"Looks like you are missing the plastic for the monster slide ramp and the light that attaches to it. I was missing that as well. I had to go hunting for the missing wire, it was in the harness but never made it up to the playfield. I had to do some rewiring as well as fabricate a bracket to hold the light socket to the ramp plastic."

I have the plastic on order. Can you provide some tips and pictures for fabricating a bracket for the light socket? I guess I'll have to pick up a light socket as well.

Oh, I am VERY happy with it. She was an absolute BEAST when I got her.

Today I got a call that my powder coating was done! So I had to rush next door and grab it. I threw the coin door together and mounted it to the cab, so I could see how it’s going to look.

I’m in love!!!

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I’m happy with mine. It’s not a bad restoration! I ordered an extra set of rails for mine so I can powder coat it. I may do that one next after GB!

I never noticed this before and now it is going to drive my OCD insane!!!! Not only are the colors reversed, the stripes are different sizes and spaced apart on the sides!!!
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Still gonna look sharp. Somebody messed up when they were printed. J

If I bought the machine looking like that, I could live with it but doing what you are doing, no way.

The stripes were done like that at the factory too. I am curious where the decals came from? The finish seems matte.

Yeah that seems to happen. The legs will cover the corner where they meet, if that helps.

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Does anyone know if it is possible to purchase just the front decal from any vendors? The rest of the cab is in pretty good shape but the front is a bit wrecked. I was thinking I could just swap out the front.

I have no idea but if you find one please let me know because I'm in the same boat. Although, I wonder how that would look with the original sides?

The cabinet is nearly complete. I need to put all the insides back in it though!!

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Wow that looks amazing!!

They all look like this. when I saw it, I was PISSED!! Then I went back through my pics and the original was that way. Then I hopped online and looked and yep. They all are like that. However, now that I see it.. there is a very good chance I will have custom ones made on down the road.

Thank you!!

I got them from DK I forget where he ordered them from and yea, they are Matte and very thin. But they went on pretty easy, The front piece was barely big enough, so you don't have any wiggle room.

Wanted nos translite top dollar paid

I made some more progress today. The cabinet is officially finished! The inside has been wired back up, with the exception of the buttons. I’m waiting on new ones.

I did however forget a piece, the metal top for the shooter lane. So I’ll drop that off Monday morning to get powder coated.

The big milestone for today, was putting the playfield back in!

It turns out, today is the two year anniversary of me buying this table.

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Well, my MPU alkaline repair, did not go so well. So at the advice of ChrisHibler I’m just going to build my Dumbass Sys11 board. I ordered about $300 worth of components for it today. I hope to get it built in the next month.

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My red chrome came it! Now I need to get the Bally logo remade in red chrome.

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Wow looks great, I like the bally logo the way it is in the picture. Gives it a nice contrast
Nice build !!!!

Maybe ask Chris Royalty if he can make a red candy chrome logo? He does nice chrome work.

Just got parts back for the SECOND time, getting that much closer to playing with her again!

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And I thought I got a lot powder coated!

And that's NOT part of the armor. Still stuck on the flavor I'm going for!?

I SHOULD have the rest of the parts to finish this board, by Saturday morning. So far, I have 13 hours in the build and 7.5 hours into sourcing parts. So 20.5 hours, with about 2 hours left.
I have spent almost $550 in parts and shipping and will have $2250 worth of shop labor tied up into this board. But dammit, Elvira WILL live again before summer is here!

It is considerably cheaper to just pay Dumbass for a built board and be patient.

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It sure is beautiful and hats off to all the hard work but damn, that's a lot of time and money. Although, this is a hobby and you're doing something you enjoy so there's something to be said about that. Nice job!

Yea, I would NEVER suggest to one of my clients that I build a board for them. I would tell them to be patient and wait on theirs to come. But, I do this in my downtime. I've kept track of the time and costs, so I can show my clients why they should just be patient

I'm sure a lot of stuff can be sourced cheaper, if you wanted to shop around. But I tried to buy most everything in one spot. Also, I bought extras of most stuff, just in case. But even if you only order what is on the list.... It isn't cheap by any means. There are $60 of PIA chips in there.

I give away this model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5721151
I used green chrome vinyl on mine, but have red chrome on a buddy's and it looks great.

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Final version of the skull plastic is done, message me if you'd like one. Fluorescent green and glow in the dark both look great!
I'll get a photo of it installed once I'm over the loctite hump of my shop job!

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Does anyone know what the part number is for the pop bumper cover? I'm looking at marco trying to find a match. Is it the mushroom type like this? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8291-9

According to the manual, it is the correct part.

awesome. Thank you!

I’m stumped on something. Working on a friends
Game got it going but the lane changes don’t work and shows flip switches not working in test.
I have my Elvira sitting right next to it, fully working game. So did some research and it says to replace the 3 little opto chips on interconnect board. Did that still don’t work. So I put the interconnect board from the bad game in my good game still don’t work. So I took my working interconnect and put in bad game and still not working. What do I do from here? Game has a new rotendog power diver in it and high power board is new.

Hello EATPM owners.
I hope someone can help clarify how the left skull assembly and the left
ramp entrance Monster Slide plastic is wired up.
1) I do not know if the Monster Slide plastic has a separate connector..Or.
2) The Monster Slide plastic's wiring is part of the Skull Assembly wiring.
2a) One has to remove both assemblies as one unit from the playfield.
-------------------------------
Note: someone hacked the wiring to this area.
Many thanks for anyone who can help with this dilemma.
Cheers.

I have noticed that on my game, the skull lock is always lit. Don't you have to light BAT from the upper lanes or hit all 3 JAM targets to light lock once? And repeat until you light lock 3 times?

Is there a setting in the game that allows lock to always be lit?

Thanks for your help!

I believe others had mentioned that the Rottendog board is hit and miss if it works in this Sys 11 game. Not sure if that is your problem but have you by chance tried swapping that board from the working machine to the non-working one?

On default settings, the lock is lit on game start for the first multiball. For subsequent multiballs, you must light the lock for each of the three balls by spelling BAT or JAM.

Multiball settings can be changed in adjustments to make it easier or harder to start multiball.

Thanks for verifying that. Was thinking there was something wrong with my game.

It's part of the skulls wiring, they are all part of one connector.

First test of my custom apron decals didn’t go well. Colors are wrong and they made it too big. The clear vinyl’s ink can’t get bright enough. So the next set will be printed on white vinyl and die cut.

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Thank you DarthPaul for helping to clarifying the wiring problem.

Now you feel my pain! Getting my repro decals printed was a pain in the ASS! I spent a bunch of $$ with printer’s trying to get it correct. First mistake was trying to replicate the UV ink. Good luck, it’s looking killer!

Oh yea, this has cost me $200 so far. Honestly, I should have done the design work myself and left them to figure out the ink and medium. But I’m slammed with paying work, so working on my own stuff takes a back seat.

Hey all.

Does anyone have a 23" CPR edition topper for sale? I could order the whole plastic kit and sell the rest but checking here first.

Also, does anyone have a replacement ball gate (metal flap) for the BBQ kick-out? I think that my whole assembly is fine but the gate/flap is not the right one. This one is likely hand cut and mostly prevents the ball from passing under, towards the top roll-over lanes.

Thanks in advance.

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Planetary has the topper for $69.

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Thank you! I decided to contact CPR, who is also in Canada, to ask if I could just buy the topper from their full set and they said yes. I was readying to order one of their Scared Stiff wall mirrors and asked if I could add this so maybe they were helping me out.

Now, if I can only locate either an NOS or reproduction ball gate for the BBQ kickout/top roll over lane area. My EATPM is almost unplayable due to the ball kickout not making it through the ball gate 75% of the time. I woudl have one made if I could get the profile or template.

These look much better! But the triangles are still too damned large. But this does look nice!!

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So I needed the same little brackets. I found this thread and realized it wasn’t going to be a trivial task. I ultimately found some “mirror mounting hardware” from my local Ace Hardware. The manufacturer was Hillman.

I had to flatten the Z out of the bracket and drill a new hole, but this seemed like the shortest distance to getting a similar bracket.

I have since found just the brackets on Amazon.
The Hillman Group 54114 1/4-Inch Offset Mirror Clip, 20-Pack https://a.co/d/8GQIfS1

Here is the final result:

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