Elvira and the Party Monsters
Bally, 1989Quoted from RandyW:In other news, I got my insert decals from MoP and put them on. They are not perfect. Fairly far from it. But they look a lot better than the missing inserts.
Each insert decal seems to have an annoying, white outer ring, outside the black key line. Also the black lettering is too opaque. And as you can see, the colors are off. Fortunately I didn’t need any of those.
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Lots of work but looking sharp!!!
Quoted from RandyW:In other news, I got my insert decals from MoP and put them on. They are not perfect. Fairly far from it. But they look a lot better than the missing inserts.
Each insert decal seems to have an annoying, white outer ring, outside the black key line. Also the black lettering is too opaque. And as you can see, the colors are off. Fortunately I didn’t need any of those.
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Well that's a bummer, are these the same ones?
Quoted from tiltmonster:Well that's a bummer, are these the same ones?
https://www.planetarypinball.com/GS-EPM888LM
I couldn’t tell you. But probably.
Ok, so I spent a couple hours going through this thread and other restore threads. It looks like generally speaking... Cranked down is just how those plastics are on the original machines. They all seem to have a curve to them.
Quoted from RandyW:Ok, so I spent a couple hours going through this thread and other restore threads. It looks like generally speaking... Cranked down is just how those plastics are on the original machines. They all seem to have a curve to them.
Your choice.
Had a few questions thanks
1 - are the games background music and sound fx / call outs separately adjustable for volume? My call outs seem rather loud compared to background tune
2 - game adj #43 MultiBall Difficulty - What does this change? Factory setting is hard, what happens if set to extra hard or easier?
3 - game adj #41 Dead Heads - same as above, what changes when set from easy, med, hard?
4- if I have a really bad game going (low score) it will automatically light the extra ball shot on ball 3. Is this normal and or adjustable?
5 - Lastly are there tournament or home made roms for this game? I hate how little adjustment there is for the multiball jackpot award, 4 million is just way to valuable for an easy 2 ramp shot. I wish the jackpot was harder to achieve and could be lowered in value.
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:2 - game adj #43 MultiBall Difficulty - What does this change? Factory setting is hard, what happens if set to extra hard or easier?
Will determine whether the lock is lit at the start of the ball, or you need to hit J-A-M to light the lock and probably whether B-A-T will light the lock.
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:3 - game adj #41 Dead Heads - same as above, what changes when set from easy, med, hard?
I'm not completely sure, but I would think it would determine how many times you need to complete the Dead Head targets in order to light a Dead Head on the back panel.
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:4- if I have a really bad game going (low score) it will automatically light the extra ball shot on ball 3. Is this normal and or adjustable?
Referred to as the "pity" extra ball, it will light on ball three if you have less than 500k points. It's a feature in many games of the era.
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:jackpot award, 4 million is just way to valuable for an easy 2 ramp shot. I wish the jackpot was harder to achieve and could be lowered in value.
There are two options for the jackpot: 4 million or normal. Normal is a progressive jackpot that starts at 1m.
Hope that helps some. The manual doesn't spell out the specifics.
So where do you get the pop bumper ring rod for Elvira PM? The manual calls for A-4754 which is not the one I have. It doesn't have the attached tubes that the pop caps screw into. Marco sells the number listed in manual (link below) and I ordered it for nothing. No way to attach pop bumper caps. 
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-4754
From Manual... Which doesn't even show the pop caps.
Also, a pic of what I have...
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Quoted from Mr_Outlane:So where do you get the pop bumper ring rod for Elvira PM? The manual calls for the wrong one. It doesn't have the attached tubes that the caps screw into. Marco sells the number listed in manual and I ordered it for nothing. No way to attach pop bumper caps.
You don’t. They’re no longer available. Either repair yours (take to a welder) or fabricate something that would work.
Quoted from guitarded:Yep. A-4754 are Unobtanium.
A-4754 is not the correct part. It is a modern Williams rod ring assembly missing the two threaded posts attached to the ring for pop cap screws to mate to. See link above.
The correct part number is A-12854
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12854
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:A-4754 is not the correct part. It is a modern Williams rod ring assembly missing the two threaded cylinders attached to the ring for pop cap screws to mate to. See link above.
What the diagram shows as A-4754 / #17 in the blowup, IS Unobtanium.
You can only find those used (good luck), repair the ones you have, or fabricate a fix.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:So where do you get the pop bumper ring rod for Elvira PM? The manual calls for A-4754 which is not the one I have. It doesn't have the attached tubes that the pop caps screw into. Marco sells the number listed in manual (link below) and I ordered it for nothing. No way to attach pop bumper caps.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-4754
From Manual... Which doesn't even show the pop caps.
Also, a pic of what I have...
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So I have this game & can you do this if the upper studs are broken off. Where they were mounted, drill a hole through that part of the ring, get a 6/32” threaded post cut to height size, install a 6/32” screw & lock washer from the bottom up into new post. After that install your bumper cap with 6/32” screws from top down. I’m sure welding new studs on will be the best but not everyone has access to that. I haven’t tried the method I explained but just some thoughts on these rings. John
Quoted from Jrotten:So I have this game & can you do this if the upper studs are broken off. Where they were mounted, drill a hole through that part of the ring, get a 6/32” threaded post cut to height size, install a 6/32” screw & lock washer from the bottom up into new post. After that install your bumper cap with 6/32” screws from top down. I’m sure welding new studs on will be the best but not everyone has access to that. I haven’t tried the method I explained but just some thoughts on these rings. John
Thank you for that. But here's what happened..
Both the treaded posts were destroyed. One was split and couldn't even take a screw. The other was stripped. One rod was also stripped where it connects to wafer. So, I planned to replace it. I looked at manual and got part number. Went to Marco and found it in stock and placed it in shopping cart. Then threw the old one out. F*cking manual was wrong and listed the wrong part number. Now I find out it's unobtanium! My fault for throwing it out!
What I plan to do is just use the new rod ring missing the post tabs and cut two pieces of wooden dowel and bolt them to the body on each side. Drill pilot holes in dowels and use wood screws to attach cap. The cap won't go up and down, but that means no stress on it. I'll hide it behind the organ plastic where it won't be seen much. Simple fix! 
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:What I plan to do is just use the new rod ring missing the post tabs and cut two pieces of wooden dowel and bolt them to the body on each side. Drill pilot hole in dowels and use wood crews to attach cap. The cap won't go up and down, but that means no stress on it. I'll hide it behind the organ plastic where it won't been seen much. Simple fix!
Sounds good. If you’re gonna do that with wood maybe find the metal threaded posts like they use on ramps or spotlight kits. Send pics of progress. J
Quoted from Jrotten:Sounds good. If you’re gonna do that with wood maybe find the metal threaded posts like they use on ramps or spotlight kits. Send pics of progress. J
I chose a dowel as I can mate it's diameter to the contour of the plastic body. Also, this makes it much easier to run a bolt though to the plastic body. The cap will not ever lean to one side this way. I will post pics when done.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I chose a dowel as I can mate it's diameter to the contour of the plastic body. Also, this makes it much easier to run a bolt though to the plastic body. The cap will not ever lean to one side this way. I will post pics when done.
Here is another idea using the new style ring. Kinda ok. I made up a piece of perforated band iron & fastened it to the side, then drill holes correct distance apart for bumper cap. But I think your dowel method will work. Also tried to drill & tap in first pic, not happening.
A2C2CD68-E49D-4FF1-A3B8-88A34839839A (resized).jpeg2549AA25-F412-4C31-9820-3BF19EBE2945 (resized).jpeg8ED15E0F-6944-4458-973F-1064622A7114 (resized).jpegBAA628B2-F31C-4A20-9E02-2B0ABB40BD7E (resized).jpegQuoted from Jrotten:Here is another idea using the new style ring. Kinda ok. I made up a piece of perforated band iron & fastened it to the side, then drill holes correct distance apart for bumper cap. But I think your dowel method will work. Also tried to drill & tap in first pic, not happening.
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LOL! Far out! At least it moves up and down. 
This works OK with just the one side?
I only did one side to show you another option. I would do both no question, the distance apart is the same as the rods for the bumper cap. The reason would be so the cap can still go up & down. It’s only a quick rough put together as an option. Also you should have bulb clearance. Both rods for sure.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:LOL! Far out!
This works OK with just the one side?
Quoted from Jrotten:I only did one side to show you another option. I would do both no question, the distance apart is the same as the rods for the bumper cap. The reason would be so the cap can still go up & down. It’s only a quick rough put together as an option. Also you should have bulb clearance. Both rods for sure.
Having two would depend on whether or not it will hit the ball? I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure off hand.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Having two would depend on whether or not it will hit the ball? I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure off hand.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Having two would depend on whether or not it will hit the ball? I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure off hand.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Having two would depend on whether or not it will hit the ball? I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure off hand.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Having two would depend on whether or not it will hit the ball? I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure off hand.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Having two would depend on whether or not it will hit the ball? I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure off hand.
Yea I hear that, just use a flatter pan head style screw & it won’t matter. I just threw it together with what I had. The screw on the outside holding the bracket will be flush with a different screw. At least there are options. Post pics of which way you go.
Quoted from Jrotten:Yea I hear that, just use a flatter pan head style screw & it won’t matter. I just threw it together with what I had. The screw on the outside holding the bracket will be flush with a different screw. At least there are options. Post pics of which way you go.
Thanks much!! 
I also thought about setting another ring (see link below) onto the existing ring turned 90 degrees and JB welded. That would provide the extra tabs to mount posts to at the correct spacing. Would add some weight for sure. Might need a stronger spring.
Before I had mine welded up, I had intended to take them to a local machine shop and have 100 or so made up. But I have other uses for the money.
Take one of your existing ones to a machine shop and see if they will replicate it for you. It is an extremely simple assembly and shouldn't be difficult for a competent shop to duplicate.
A little more work done on the old girl. I got my pop bumper rings back from being welded up. I’m fortunate to have a lot of high tech labs close by and friends with hookups!
I also polished up the shooter Rob plate and installed a new shooter rod. I threw in a pic of the coin door, with the original arcade sticker on the front. I’ll replicate that and put it back on the door when I finish.
The cabinet restore will be next year.
48AFD486-747F-4031-AC7F-56EF1EF39AD5 (resized).jpeg8BE3D04A-E5A6-43FC-9CE1-1DFE8EE048A9 (resized).jpeg9D841B47-D2DE-4A15-8686-316C07837BF6 (resized).jpegC12FE9E7-FE09-4809-8204-2402D91A7B3C (resized).jpegD2CBD34F-B532-4D79-B40C-0B6E92B33C4A (resized).jpegQuoted from RandyW:A little more work done on the old girl. I got my pop bumper rings back from being welded up. I’m fortunate to have a lot of high tech labs close by and friends with hookups!
I also polished up the shooter Rob plate and installed a new shooter rod. I threw in a pic of the coin door, with the original arcade sticker on the front. I’ll replicate that and put it back on the door when I finish.
The cabinet restore will be next year.
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Be a good time to do some powder coat ?
Speaking of powder coat, the coin door is beat up and needs a repaint. Is powder coat the way to go? I could just clean it up and hit it with Rustoleum.
If powder coat, is it best to send it to a company that does pinball powder coating, or anyone in the local area? I never did this before.
Thanks!
Quoted from RandyW:Before I had mine welded up, I had intended to take them to a local machine shop and have 100 or so made up. But I have other uses for the money.
Take one of your existing ones to a machine shop and see if they will replicate it for you. It is an extremely simple assembly and shouldn't be difficult for a competent shop to duplicate.
I will look into it.
Thanks!
Quoted from Jrotten:Be a good time to do some powder coat ?
Next year, when I do the cabinet. For now, the misses just wants it in the house and playing.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Speaking of powder coat, the coin door is beat up and needs a repaint. Is powder coat the way to go? I could just clean it up and hit it with Rustoleum.
If powder coat, is it best to send it to a company that does pinball powder coating, or anyone in the local area? I never did this before.
Thanks!
It is personal preference. I have used both and both hold up just fine over the years. It is all in the prep work. Anyone who does powder coating, can do it for you.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Speaking of powder coat, the coin door is beat up and needs a repaint. Is powder coat the way to go? I could just clean it up and hit it with Rustoleum.
If powder coat, is it best to send it to a company that does pinball powder coating, or anyone in the local area? I never did this before.
Thanks!
Spray paint is fine. Powder is awesome looking. I did mine in Jamaican Ice color. Has a little green fleck to it. Also did wire ramps.
C31E6D2D-02DF-40EE-AA5C-AB92A9192CF7 (resized).jpeg9BCB6C7C-8C82-41C8-8A8E-4CDBBA2E3DCB (resized).jpegFC2E897F-C716-4B07-922A-33D561395881 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mr_Outlane:Speaking of powder coat, the coin door is beat up and needs a repaint. Is powder coat the way to go? I could just clean it up and hit it with Rustoleum.
If powder coat, is it best to send it to a company that does pinball powder coating, or anyone in the local area? I never did this before.
Thanks!
Steve at Pinball Refinery does an excellent job. He’s in Muskegon. He’s pretty high end, not especially cheap, but certainly high quality. If you can find a local powder coater, you can prob save some bucks. You’ll want the coin door media blasted to take it down to bare metal first. Steve does that first. But you can certainly try doing it yourself and painting the door. It’s awesome seeing pins restored and returned to the pinball community.
Quoted from Jrotten:Spray paint is fine. Powder is awesome looking. I did mine in Jamaican Ice color. Has a little green fleck to it. Also did wire ramps.
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WOW!! That is sweet! 
Quoted from Pinkitten:Steve at Pinball Refinery does an excellent job. He’s in Muskegon. He’s pretty high end, not especially cheap, but certainly high quality. If you can find a local powder coater, you can prob save some bucks. You’ll want the coin door media blasted to take it down to bare metal first. Steve does that first. But you can certainly try doing it yourself and painting the door. It’s awesome seeing pins restored and returned to the pinball community.
That's exactly who I had in mind.
Quoted from Jrotten:Spray paint is fine. Powder is awesome looking. I did mine in Jamaican Ice color. Has a little green fleck to it. Also did wire ramps.
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Are those the original coin door buttons?
I might replace mine as they are somewhat beat up. I would like to replace with original or at least original decals. Anyone know where to get them?
Thanks!
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Are those the original coin door buttons?
I might replace mine as they are somewhat beat up. I would like to replace with original or at least original decals. Anyone know where to get them?
Thanks!
I got clear ones from either Marco or pinball life, this way you can put any color bulb you want behind them. Lights up pretty well. I probably have some orange ones here if you need them. The button itself has a small door you can open for a 25 cents card or anything else.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Are those the original coin door buttons?
I might replace mine as they are somewhat beat up. I would like to replace with original or at least original decals. Anyone know where to get them?
Thanks!
Those aren’t decals. Marco has new labels for those reject buttons.
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=Reject%20buttons
Here is what I used.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I would like to replace with original or at least original decals.
EATPM was one of the first machines to cost $0.50 to play. So I wonder if this is the game is when they switched the reject buttons from "25¢" cards to "Quarters" cards. I use "Quarters" cards in EATPM. Looks like the flier shows "25¢" cards, but flier pictures sometimes have pre-production parts.
328D1E02-814D-4BBB-9143-8DDC81766DF3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jrotten:I got clear ones from either Marco or pinball life, this way you can put any color bulb you want behind them. Lights up pretty well. I probably have some orange ones here if you need them. The button itself has a small door you can open for a 25 cents card or anything else.
I used the original orange ones with a red LED and it looks great but, if you want green or another color than those clear ones are the way to go.
Red Coin return (resized).jpgQuoted from DK:Where can I order EATPM cab decals? I ordered a set from pinballdecals.eu and never got them while the owner swears up and down it was mailed out twice
Quoted from RandyW:It’s not cut out straight and I haven’t put in my new inserts or fixed up the door… but this is what I’m doing for my table.
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That is not right. Who in the hell would reject Elvira!!
Well, the local machine shops didn't have time to fab me a ring rod, so I went ahead with my stationary jury rig using the available A-4754 ring-rod assembly..
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** I wound up a tad short on the dowels, so I just used a couple plastic spacers (shaved down) between cap and dowels because I didn't want the ring-rod slamming on the bottom of cap... I allowed for a small gap about 1/8" (not seen in pic).
Slowly and bit by bit, Elvira is starting to look like a Pinball machine again.
85390ABF-56C7-45E2-8E43-A47558199F0C (resized).jpegC3E7F2C9-4622-4021-923A-BAD14155AEDE (resized).jpeg3B5CA98E-9A41-4E10-B177-73D66CBFD4A2 (resized).jpeg3C10D50D-6A53-451F-9AAB-AD917A42E068 (resized).jpeg58988BA3-B33B-4F3B-8919-65DA01E78A64 (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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Highland Lakes, NJ