Where can I find some cool apron cards for my Elvira?
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:anybody know where this goes?
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Possibly upper left corner.
So, the "E" and "L" on ELVIRA are always lit at start of game. What is the most likely cause? I'm thinking switch or lamp matrix.
Thanks!
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:So, the "E" and "L" on ELVIRA are always lit at start of game. What is the most likely cause? I'm thinking switch or lamp matrix.
Thanks!
That's normal. It's an adjustable difficulty setting. It spots 2 letters at beginning of game. You can adjust that, and also choose whether earned letters carry over from game to game, or reset with each play. Good news, you don't have to fix anything!
I believe ELVI is the factory setting, but it can probably be adjusted down to EL.
Skull Passage and 3 Million: The Skull Passage can also be shot for 3 Million when lit. The 3 Million is lit by completing the ELVIRA letters shown in the center of the playfield between the slingshots. Each letter is collected by shooting the Monster Slide Ramp when lit. The Monster Slide is lit for an ELVIRA letter by completing the BAT Lanes, the JAM Drop Targets or the Dead Heads Targets. Once lit, the Monster Slide must be shot within 15 seconds to collect the ELVIRA letter. After the A letter is collected the Skull Passage is lit for 3 Million. This is also a timed shot. The Skull Passage must be shot within 20 seconds. Note that collecting the A letter via the Monster Slide will set up the Skull Passage shot. Don't miss. If the 3 Million is collected, all the ELVIRA letters go out. If the 3 Million is not collected, the R and A letters go out. Lit ELVIRA letters carry from ball to ball, player to player and game to game. Aside from the possibility of a large accumulated Multiball Jackpot, the 3 Million shot is the most lucrative shot of the game. And it's not that hard to set up. The JAM Drop Targets are an easy completion to light letters and the Monster Slide/Skull Passage combo is easily doable.
As per... http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/eatpm/rules/rules.html
You can also collect ELVIRA letters by repeating the Monster Slide shot until the Million is lit. After you collect the million, each shot to the ramp is worth a letter.
Thanks for the help fellas!
It's not my game. A friend of mine is keeping it at my house because he lacks the space. I'm fixing it up for him. It's now 100% payable, but I didn't learn the game before asking..
I have another question?
Is it normal for the ball to exit the right orbit and always bounce off the right sling top bumper and go towards the left out-lane area? This is a huge issue on this machine. Very often, a hard nudge is required to keep it from draining to the point that I had to nearly disable the tilt bob. Seems wrong??
The table is level side to side and at correct pitch.
Thanks!
My Boogie Monsters Assembly (C-12920) has been heavily modified in it's life to the point that it is completely wrong now. I'd like to get a new one to put it back to original but the only part I can find is the rocker link. Does anyone have one from a parted playfield or could possibly point me in the direction of the whole unit? I'd take a broken one. I can fix stuff but this is beyond fixing. Thanks for reading!
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Nope, not normal. I'd look at maybe adjusting the ball guide rail on that orbit?
I looked at it and can't imagine how it is so off? This will require some serious adjusting somehow.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Is it normal for the ball to exit the right orbit and always bounce off the right sling top bumper and go towards the left out-lane area?
Soft plunge, too?
Soft plunge should feed the Right Flipper just about perfectly.
Quoted from guitarded:Soft plunge, too?
Soft plunge should feed the Right Flipper just about perfectly.
Yes, a soft plunge lands directly on the top bumper of right sling.
I'm not sure what to adjust. I'll have to experiment.
Any advice appreciated!
Quoted from awarner:My Boogie Monsters Assembly (C-12920) has been heavily modified in it's life to the point that it is completely wrong now. I'd like to get a new one to put it back to original but the only part I can find is the rocker link. Does anyone have one from a parted playfield or could possibly point me in the direction of the whole unit? I'd take a broken one. I can fix stuff but this is beyond fixing. Thanks for reading!
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I’m pretty I’ve got one of those assemblies left that is in much better condition!
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I'm not sure what to adjust. I'll have to experiment.
Any advice appreciated!
Ripping my PF down for a swap right now...and looking at this, I would check the guide to make sure it is sitting 90 degrees to the PF.
IF you can't loosen the tabs and move the end of the guide out further AND the guide is square to the PF, I would start by lightly bending the top of the guide in towards the ball path a little at a time until I achieved the proper/desired feed.
Only other option is to fill the existing holes and re-drill new ones to relocate the guide.
Quoted from Pbpins:I also have these (4) very nice manual copies if anyone is looking!
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Nice! I'm interested, what price do you have one them?
I must bid farewell to my fellow party monsters group. As of today, my fully restored EATPM has a new home (sort of). I bought it from a friend of mine who deeply regretted selling it. It was ROUGH. I did a full restoration. I mean cab down to bare wood restore. He made me promise if I ever sold it, he got first dibs. Well, I got an EHOH recently and I need money and space for my incoming Scooby, so we agreed on a price. She's now back to her former residence. The good news is, he's local and I can go play it anytime I want. Still hate to see her go...
Quoted from guitarded:Damn, Cat. I bet that was a tough one to let go of. How do you like HOH?
HOH is pretty amazing. No lie.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I must bid farewell to my fellow party monsters group. As of today, my fully restored EATPM has a new home (sort of). I bought it from a friend of mine who deeply regretted selling it. It was ROUGH. I did a full restoration. I mean cab down to bare wood restore. He made me promise if I ever sold it, he got first dibs. Well, I got an EHOH recently and I need money and space for my incoming Scooby, so we agreed on a price. She's now back to her former residence. The good news is, he's local and I can go play it anytime I want. Still hate to see her go...
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That’s a beauty! A local collector and friend of mine restored his EATPM a few years ago, and I bought it in 2020. It’s restored top to bottom like yours, and even has a Kruzman clear coated pf. I sleep underneath it at night just to make sure it doesn’t get away.
Quoted from Pinkitten:That’s a beauty! A local collector and friend of mine restored his EATPM a few years ago, and I bought it in 2020. It’s restored top to bottom like yours, and even has a Kruzman clear coated pf. I sleep underneath it at night just to make sure it doesn’t get away.
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NICE!!
Quoted from Pinkitten:That’s a beauty! A local collector and friend of mine restored his EATPM a few years ago, and I bought it in 2020. It’s restored top to bottom like yours, and even has a Kruzman clear coated pf. I sleep underneath it at night just to make sure it doesn’t get away.
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Just finished another one. Very very nice. The owner of this has the Elvira trilogy too, so it will be in good company.
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Quoted from djblouw:Just finished another one. Very very nice. The owner of this has the Elvira trilogy too, so it will be in good company.
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Beautiful! The owner will be very happy, I know from experience!
My wife is listing her Elvira VHS movie poster on ebay
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Quoted from pinwiztom:My wife is listing her Elvira VHS movie poster on ebay
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ebay.com link: itm
Are you sure it's not yours?
Quoted from guitarded:Ripping my PF down for a swap right now...and looking at this, I would check the guide to make sure it is sitting 90 degrees to the PF.
IF you can't loosen the tabs and move the end of the guide out further AND the guide is square to the PF, I would start by lightly bending the top of the guide in towards the ball path a little at a time until I achieved the proper/desired feed.
Only other option is to fill the existing holes and re-drill new ones to relocate the guide.
OK, I found the problem...
A previous hack job where they broke off one of the screw heads at the bolt down tab at bottom of ball guide. They drilled new holes and remounted it and threw the whole thing off. I fixed it. Plays great now!
So now a fast ball down the right orbit goes right to the right flipper and a slow ball will hit the right slingshot in the middle rather than the top bumper rubber.
I'm assuming this is correct?
Huge thank you to Daane (djblouw) - he did such an amazing job restoring elvira for me. Turned out better than I could have ever imagined. I am so grateful. Daane did the restoration, Steven (MI Pinball refinery) did the powder coating and Rodney from RLM Amusements gave me a big ol' box so I could send my old playfield to Cliffy for some test-fitting. Lots of amazing people around here.
Speaking of which - Cliffy is already hard at work working on protectors for Elvira.
So, I am replacing the broken Monster Slide Exit Ramp. Is it just easier to pull the playfield to do this? What a PITA!
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:So, I am replacing the broken Monster Slide Exit Ramp. Is it just easier to pull the playfield to do this? What a PITA!
You can do it blind. You can also remove the rear trim bar to get a little more top clearance to see what you are doing. There's just one small screw holding them all together back there. But lining it up and landing it can be a whore.
Anyone know where I can find the giant Nyliners for the Boogie Men Assembly? Look like they are right around 3/4" - 7/8".
Quoted from guitarded:Anyone know where I can find the giant Nyliners for the Boogie Men Assembly?
Marco has them:
Can anyone post pics of the Mounting Screws / Hardware on the Ramp Gates / Switches.
Finishing up a PF Swap and the screws that were in my old ramps were a mismatched set of random screws / hardware / operator ingenuity.
Thanks in advance.
Quoted from guitarded:Can anyone post pics of the Mounting Screws / Hardware on the Ramp Gates / Switches.
Finishing up a PF Swap and the screws that were in my old ramps were a mismatched set of random screws / hardware / operator ingenuity.
Thanks in advance.
I used 6/32” screws & locking nuts for the gates. The switches I believe were 4-40 screws
Quoted from guitarded:Can anyone post pics of the Mounting Screws / Hardware on the Ramp Gates / Switches.
Finishing up a PF Swap and the screws that were in my old ramps were a mismatched set of random screws / hardware / operator ingenuity.
Thanks in advance.
Best pics I have.
Quoted from guitarded:Can anyone post pics of the Mounting Screws / Hardware on the Ramp Gates / Switches.
Finishing up a PF Swap and the screws that were in my old ramps were a mismatched set of random screws / hardware / operator ingenuity.
Thanks in advance.
Also did armor & ramps in Jamaican Ice from prismatic powders. Wasn’t a fan of the chrome.
Thanks for the pics. Really appreciated.
Looks like my main problem now, is the Gate on the Monster Slide entrance is a bad replacement. It puts the wireform out of reach of the switch activator.
Pretty sure that specific part is unobtainable...
gonna go try to hunt down something I can order to substitute.
Also, I like that Powder Coated Habitrail. Looks awesome.
Quoted from guitarded:Thanks for the pics. Really appreciated.
Looks like my main problem now, is the Gate on the Monster Slide entrance is a bad replacement. It puts the wireform out of reach of the switch activator.
Pretty sure that specific part is unobtainable...
gonna go try to hunt down something I can order to substitute.
Also, I like that Powder Coated Habitrail. Looks awesome.
I’ve read guys are using MRS switches to replace the gates & switches.
Quoted from Jrotten:I’ve read guys are using MRS switches to replace the gates & switches.
This might be my best option unless I can find someone doing a teardown of a parts machine. Thanks.
Quoted from Jrotten:Out of stock of course. I’d give Steve a call at Pinball Resource. He may be able to help.
This was my Monday Morning plan. I have been looking at all of the Suppliers OOS pages for the last 1/2 hour.
Such an annoying little part to be hung up on!
What site is that from?
Can't find it on a search...thanks.
I have Matt from MRS sending me a reed switch to eliminate the guide and gate altogether...but having the original part in hand would be nice, too. That was a great suggestion. I have some of their switched in my Rick and morty and they work great.
I hear the MRS ones are good. Somewhere on this thread shows placement which has to be just right for Monster slide. One guy had to move it up higher or lower, if you do that I’d try it temporarily to see the best results. J
Quoted from Pinkitten:That’s a beauty! A local collector and friend of mine restored his EATPM a few years ago, and I bought it in 2020. It’s restored top to bottom like yours, and even has a Kruzman clear coated pf. I sleep underneath it at night just to make sure it doesn’t get away.
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Yours was the best Elvira I've ever played or seen. Maybe I need to ask Daane to do a 3rd restore
Quoted from Jrotten:I hear the MRS ones are good. Somewhere on this thread shows placement which has to be just right for Monster Slide
You want it high enough on the ramp so that it spans the entire width under the ramp. You also want it higher on the ramp in general so that the ball is settled and doesn't soar over it. Monster Slide is a little unique because there is a call-out if the ball rolls up and then back down the ramp, so you don't want it too high because you might miss out on that call.
I posted a video on YouTube about replacing that switch with MRS. I also talked about it in my video about replacing the ramps.
Quoted from kyle5574:You want it high enough on the ramp so that it spans the entire width under the ramp. You also want it higher on the ramp in general so that the ball is settled and doesn't soar over it. Monster Slide is a little unique because there is a call-out if the ball rolls up and then back down the ramp, so you don't want it too high because you might miss out on that call.
I posted a video on YouTube about replacing that switch with MRS. I also talked about it in my video about replacing the ramps.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/elvira-and-the-party-monsters-club-monsterous/page/30#post-6543539
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/elvira-and-the-party-monsters-club-monsterous/page/31#post-6564223
Good info right here, and if you're looking to replace your ramps Kyle's videos are helpful. I replaced my switch with the MRS, I wish I placed it differently (you can notice the shadow) but it works really well and is less obtrusive.
Quoted from Beechwood:Yours was the best Elvira I've ever played or seen. Maybe I need to ask Daane to do a 3rd restore
Daane does an awesome job. I am good at certain things like light restorations, cabinet repair, etc. He’s great at full tear downs and rebuilds. Regarding the Monster Slide switch talk above, I used an MRS switch from Matt under the center of the ramp, at about the same spot as the micro switch was. It registers great and was needed after I added a metal Cliffy to the side edge of the plastic ramp. The switch sat too high and was too tight to operate correctly. The MRS was the solution. I kept the gate anyway because it felt more authentic or something. And now my ramp entrance won’t crack either!
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