I would contact Starship, they may not be listed but it never hurts to ask... it worked for me.
(Topic ID: 81677)
Linked Games
Elvira and the Party Monsters
Bally, 1989
Topic Gallery
Toledo, OH
Quoted from gdogfunk:but they are out and said it will be several months before they may be ready.
I bet they're ready right around the time the CPR playfield starts shipping...
Quoted from PittPin:Just finished lighting up the boogie men. It is a really simple thing to do and cheap.
In case you are interested you need two Pop Bumper lamp socket, 12" insulated stranded wire leads.
Here are some pictures of the modification.
After soldering the sockets in parallel and attaching 18" of connecting wire and alligator clips,
the sockets are inserted into the tubes from the top. Bend the wires up over the top and then down the back. Secure it with some black tape.
IMG_7806.JPG
What gauge wire did you use and where can I find stranded wire to make this mod?
Thanks!
Quoted from mskoenen:Yeesh! That's $100 more than what they cost when Pinball Inc had them.
Its all about supply and demand but I got mine from starship at the York show last year and I think they were $275. Discounted price because it was at the show, no shipping..
Hey everyone, I got my cheap cauldron mod working. Details here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eatpm-cauldron-flame-mod#post-3122742
Joined the club not long ago, and really excited to clean it up and play the hell out of it. However, can someone please provide dimensions to the back glass, as mine only has a plexiglass attached to translight! Need to go to a local glass shop, to have it cut. Also, is the thickness 1/8th or 1/6th of an inch?
27" x 23-1/2" x 1/8"
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Backglass_Sizes
Quoted from ChrisS:Has anyone changed their displays to Green LED? I think it would be a nice look. Anyone have pics.
Chris,
I have the Xpin green LED displays and they look amazing on the pin. Extremely happy with them. I'll see if I can snap some new pics tonight. Last time I tried the phone kept making them look "blueish" but highly recommend the green.
Quoted from s2k4ary:Awesome, thanks sethmam. Exactly what I needed
No problem, I've needed it many a time as well. 
Quoted from Sethman:Chris,
I have the Xpin green LED displays and they look amazing on the pin. Extremely happy with them. I'll see if I can snap some new pics tonight. Last time I tried the phone kept making them look "blueish" but highly recommend the green.No problem, I've needed it many a time as well.
Yeah I really want to pull the trigger but the price tag is what is holding me back. Although I shouldn't complain I dropped 8 bills on a couple color DMD's.
Quoted from ChrisS:Yeah I really want to pull the trigger but the price tag is what is holding me back. Although I shouldn't complain I dropped 8 bills on a couple color DMD's.
I also have the green XPin displays and they're awesome
I was thinking Green and was close to getting them but I went with the Red X-Pin. I'm probably the odd ball out on this one but the Red seemed to match the theme I was trying to achieve (Her name, the art work, coin mechs and t molding).
Quoted from Mudflaps:Green displays, AMH topper, green BriteButtons, Starship Fantasy ramps, and a ton of other shit
Looks great!
EDIT: That green is sweet and certainly makes the display pop... hmmm
I'm glad I'm seeing the Bally logo way too high on the speaker grill on everyone's EATPM. I thought mine was a strange quality mistake with the placement. My other Bally's have the logo more in the middle. I wonder why it ended up being placed so high? On purpose? Assembly flaw?
Quoted from tiltmonster:Looks great!
EDIT: That green is sweet and certainly makes the display pop... hmmm
Once you go green...
3 weeks later
4 weeks later
I'm trying to fix an elvira that some mice made a lunch of some wires. Is there any way anyone could send or post some close ups of the lower left portion of the board area near plugs.
Thanks.
3 weeks later
Grimmenstein
Quoted from ClarkKent:Does anybody have scans or at least good highres photos of the ramp decals? Please help! Thanx!
I'm in for scans.... Please!
Quoted from Dynadan:Brand new to the club. Belly glass from an Elvira Slot machine turned into a topper. Now I just got to figure out the best way to attach it.
If you send it to me I'll find a perfect solution!
Highes photos from the ramp decals from straight above would also be enough to create new decals. Anyone willing to take some?
(Just to show what can be done with good photos - enclosed a sample of a RS ramp decal I've done from a photo. Removed the sticker from the paper as the printed art is on the sticky side, photographed it and reattached it to the paper - no harm done)
Quoted from ClarkKent:Highes photos from the ramp decals from straight above would also be enough to create new decals. Anyone willing to take some?
(Just to show what can be done with good photos - enclosed a sample of a RS ramp decal I've done from a photo. Removed the sticker from the paper as the printed art is on the sticky side, photographed it and reattached it to the paper - no harm done)
Hey, I'll try to take some pics over the weekend.... But my decals are not in great shape.... Will you be able to photoshop'em?
YES! If you can make the photos that way that nothing is cut off, without any mirrorings and without flash lights this should be possible. Maybe clean the ramp above the decals to have the best possible pictures. Best would be to photograph parts and not the whole ramp at once - the pics are sharper and better to work with. And make several pics and send the sharpest ones. Can you upload to dropbox or mega?
I need the decals for all three ramps (the two yellow ones and the monster slide).
I am looking for the best way to tap 12vdc on my EATPM for the lit shooter housing and lit leg protector mods. I see on page 3-21 of the manual, under Backbox Interconnect Board, that 2J2-1 is 12vdc. This leaves the board and goes to a three pin molex connector just below the board. Would it work to put a splitter at this connector to power these mods? Does anyone see problems doing this? Thanks.
Quoted from PittPin:I am looking for the best way to tap 12vdc on my EATPM for the lit shooter housing and lit leg protector mods. I see on page 3-21 of the manual, under Backbox Interconnect Board, that 2J2-1 is 12vdc. This leaves the board and goes to a three pin molex connector just below the board. Would it work to put a splitter at this connector to power these mods? Does anyone see problems doing this? Thanks.
I think you'd be fine, assuming 1 or 2 leds is all your adding.
Quoted from ClarkKent:YES! If you can make the photos that way that nothing is cut off, without any mirrorings and without flash lights this should be possible. Maybe clean the ramp above the decals to have the best possible pictures. Best would be to photograph parts and not the whole ramp at once - the pics are sharper and better to work with. And make several pics and send the sharpest ones. Can you upload to dropbox or mega?
I need the decals for all three ramps (the two yellow ones and the monster slide).
PM'ed you!
Quoted from papazit1963:I think you'd be fine, assuming 1 or 2 leds is all your adding.
Is there a good way to determine how much extra load a voltage source point can handle?
2 weeks later
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Thrilled to have installed new internal side decals!
PS: sorry for the bad pics... glass was on and my smartphone that has a better camera ran out of battery power.... I'll take some better shots during the weekend!
Looks good! Like to see some better pics with the machine on, and the room a little darker. Where did you pick those up?
Hello group. I have owned my EATPM for decades. Mine is a bit of a player with some playfield wear and ramp cracks near the entrance. I never thought about restoring it since major parts were not available. But things are changing and after a recent back and forth with Rick from PPS I thought I would post what looks like future hope for people hoping for parts.
Playfield - CPR has this up on preorder.
Plastics - Let CPR know your interest in these also. There is a chance of a re-run of the full set.
Ramps - The molds Pinball Inc. use to have should now be in the hands of Starship Fantasy.
And, one that has not even been on the radar before. When I asked Rick about the clear coffin lid on the flip up targets Rick said he has located the print and sent it to Pinball Inc. to see if they have the tool.
So this is not definite and I doubt any time soon. But at least there is hope for a very difficult to find part.
1 week later
Did anyone manage to buy this kit: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1515-2011-X ?
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Did anyone manage to buy this kit: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1515-2011-X ?
No, I got my decals when I bought my new ramps from Starship but I'd buy them anyway just to have a spare... wonder how long ago those were available for sale?
1 month later
I finally just picked up an Elvira to go with my scared stiff
I'm doing some cleanup of it, putting in the LEDs over the place
Does anyone have any images that are scaled right of rules / free play cards?
Also by the right front of the left ramp near the two targets there seems to of been a wire or guide or some form of protector with two mount holes that I am missing, I can get pics later but does anyone know what that thing was there?
Great game and I've waited very patiently to get the right one!
Quoted from pinnaf:I finally just picked up an Elvira to go with my scared stiff
I'm doing some cleanup of it, putting in the LEDs over the place
Does anyone have any images that are scaled right of rules / free play cards?
Also by the right front of the left ramp near the two targets there seems to of been a wire or guide or some form of protector with two mount holes that I am missing, I can get pics later but does anyone know what that thing was there?
Great game and I've waited very patiently to get the right one!
I'm not sure what you mean but do either of these pictures help?
1 week later
I have a couple of switch problems I am hoping fellow party monsters can help me with. The first is switch 30, left ramp entry. I replaced this switch with a DB3 replacement and attached the old arm. It still does not work. I attached a photo to see if someone can confirm that I connected it correctly (wires and diode direction). And can you tell me how this is supposed to work when doing a continuity check? Maybe I got lucky and received a bad switch.
The other switch is #56 which is Flip Up2 open. It is shown as being behind the KOOK coffin but I don't see how to check it or get to it.
Could someone give me some guidance?
SOLVED: The arm on switch 30 was closing the switch at rest. Adjusting the bend took care of this. I took the cover off of the coffin assembly and then the assembly itself and found that the diode had come loose from the switch lug. I soldered it back on and now there are no switch errors.
1 week later
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