Nice work!
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Quoted from Pinmagicman:There is a complete Elektra lower playfield on eBay right now, starting at $100, if anyone needs one. It has all of the hardware and looks to be in great shape. The auction still has four days to go.
Thanks for the heads up.
Someone else is parting one out, several parts listed. I really want those red mini flippers but not for $100 plus s&h.
Quoted from jjoravec:Anyone have a spare Elektra Apron they are looking to sell? Picked up an Elektra without one.
Thanks
Welcome to the club
For the lower, after touchups I would ideally clear coat it or lay down mylar. I'm thinking the touchups will wear down quickly (but not 100% sure).
No harm in waxing the plexi...
Quoted from Pinmagicman:I went through the ‘Game Self-Diagnostic Tests’ on page 13 of the manual. The four main flippers worked but not the two in the lower level. Lots of lights are still out so it may might be a bad board that was just ignored.
Wow, you have been busy! Great job
In the middle of my Elektra rebuild, decided to make a video showing the progress.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-mayhem-youtube-channel-thread/page/2#post-4248254
Enjoy
Jeremy
Quoted from Pinmagicman:Nice YouTube video. I like the blue and clear finned posts on the lower playfield, plus the blue Titan bands. Where did you get those small white flippers for the lower playfield?
Thank you, those small white flippers were on it when I got the machine. I had to shave a bit off the new flipper bushings to get them working properly. I just looked them up to see that they are Gottlieb
here's some more lower playfield pics for Pinmagicman to enjoy. I'm really liking how this is looking. The main playfield may get some blue posts also.
2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Sly311271:Sorry to say but the blue posts do not look good, the color does not fit at all. Even the transparent ones do not look ok.
Through the blue the whole harmony is distorted. The primary colors of the playing field are red and black and yellow.
Blue is a cold color and above the playfield has only warm colors.
You should use white instead of transparent.
The blue bites the green of the target. All blue should be red. At the target possibly yellow.
Sorry, but that's my opinion.
No worries at allI appreciate the feedback.
I agree with you on the blue posts behind the green target. I will play it a bit and see how I feel about it (easy to change back).
thanks for the note
Jeremy
I wonder if that upper one has been used ? The holes for the drop targets appear to be a bit worn.
But hey, it still looks awesome! Thanks for the pics
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Hey long-time Elektra owner here. Sold my first one missed it so much by the second one. Unfortunately my electrics been down for close to a year now and I just haven't had time to try and fix it. I have time now but I'm terrible at diagnosing machines this old. The initial problem was all of the flippers on the left side of the machine just stopped working. As I was trying to diagnose why I open the back box and was unplugging and plugging back in connectors while the machine was on. I know silly silly mistake. One of the connectors kind of sparked as I pulled it out and pushed it back in and ever since then the machine turns on and the lights come on but nothing happens no displays in the machine doesn't start up. Does anyone know what the problem could be? What other info do you guys need to help me diagnose this problem?
Ouch!
My recommendation- start at the wall plug and work your way up, checking voltages along the way. Perhaps you will get lucky and find a blown fuse.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I have a question for all the Elektra owners and those that have played the game. What do you love about the game and what would you change if you could? Not too long ago I was able to get a Bally Black Jack and with the help of a fellow pinside quench unraveled the ROM code to understand how the machine really worked. With that I was able to patch the Game ROM and change it to add a couple new tunes with the chimes and patch the code do if you lost you would lose points. It was a fun project and now I want to try something new!
Elektra is an interesting machine that I think has a lot of untapped potential. That may take some tweaks to the code and a few HW hacks to do what I think may be possible.
Instead of the bottom playfield being used when the ball drains how about when you lock a ball under special circumstances? How about a multiball with one up and one down? How about a crazy multiball with two up and the one below for three balls at once? What do you think that would do to improve the game? I'm not sure what is possible yet but if needed a larger ROM could contain extra code for more features. I'm not going to make outlandish claims that I'll get all this done but with a well defined scope I'll take a crack at it.
I'd start with a simple change and then if that is successful build on that for other enhancements.
If you have any ideas please share them here and maybe something good can happen.
Robert
Cool ideas Robert! I like locking a ball up top and starting the lowest PF - perhaps for a goal (so many times looped over the horseshoe)?
-Unless you have wiring changes, the lowest playfield can't be on at the same time as the main due to a relay.
Looking forward to seeing updates on this.
Jeremy
I got mine from Bob Langelius at www.langelius.com
Here's a in progress vid I made. I have it playing now but it's not finished.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Last nights project. This sits between the two metal ramps and replaces the plastic piece there. I'm going to print this in a few other translucent colors (red, yellow, clear) and see how they look in the game and when lit. I may end up tweaking the crystal design but I think this is a good first attempt.
I may try another version that just sits on the playfield directly behind the targets instead of sitting over them.
If this works out and looks good I will be able to make more.
Thoughts?
Neat idea! Is it designed to prevent a possible ball trap issue?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:How often does the ball get up on top of the plastic there? I may have to add more crystal spires toward the back of the piece to try and prevent that. Hadn't considered that aspect and will have to check.
I mainly made this as an option to replace a broken plastic there and have a nice crystal structure to enhance the game. I think it will look pretty cool as you hit the red targets and light them up. The whole crystal should glow.
Not often, but it only has to happen once to spoil the fun. I have had it happen on my machine a couple of times.
There is GI back there - perhaps painting the underside of the crystals silver except where the light tubes will be. That should help light things up.
Working backwards on your msg, the caps used were total CRAP. Couldn't handle the vibration and shorted out causing many switch issues. Better that they are gone.
Relay: it should only click once when attract mode switches to lower pf. Otherwise lower pf should be dark during attract (most of the time).
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:J just picked up a example that needed some TLC but has some good potential. I am cleaning, replacing rubbers etc. and I ran into something that originally stumped me, and the more I have researched it, the more confused I am getting.
There is a very large rubber ring that, according to the including diagram that I have from Marco, which is based on the manual, it is supposed to loop around the upper playfield chamber ball. I have consulted multiple photos of the playfield, including the original flyer, and some have it, but most don't. The original manual shows a 4" ring, but doesn't show a location. How do you have yours? Is there a ring in front of the captive ball or not? Note the playfield on the flyer. It clearly shows it. Any advice would be VERY appreciated. In fact, if you do have it, a photo showing how it is routed on your machine would be epic! Thanks in advance. If you don't, an explanation as to why would be great too.
Wow, I hadn't noticed that! Here's how mine is setup
DSC04804 (resized).JPG
The manual shows the large ring as a dotted line. It goes around the two posts and circles the ball guides that hold the captive ball. The 4 inch ring explains to me why there are 3 posts around the 5x standup target. I may toss a large ring on mine and see how it plays. It could add some more "action" to the upper playfield.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:More
Where did you get the red and blue post caps? I've only ever seen those in white or black.
Thanks, Titan pinball. You can find them under the rubber ring selection
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52
I also am using some light blue & black on this machine (video coming soon)
Post%20Caps-800x800 (resized).jpgThe "game finished" video is posted (woot!).
It shows off the super nice translucent targets from Bob Langelius at www.langelius.com. And the neat colored post caps from Titan pinball.
Next to make is the game play vid (after I try out the 4 inch ring around the captive ball). Enjoy
Jeremy & the Pinball Mayhem team
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:*snip* The original manual shows a 4" ring, but doesn't show a location. How do you have yours? Is there a ring in front of the captive ball or not? Note the playfield on the flyer. It clearly shows it. Any advice would be VERY appreciated. In fact, if you do have it, a photo showing how it is routed on your machine would be epic! *snip*
Here you go, I changed the way mine was setup. It does appear to provide more action up top so it will stay this way. Thanks for pointing out the difference.
Jeremy
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Good to know. Do you have a part number for the new switches that are used with those targets?
I was lucky, all the switches on mine were screwed together. 1/2 of them needed different spacers, backers, switch blades to work properly. I have an assortment of that stuff from other repairs. If you have some old switch parts - you could always drill out the rivets and bolt them together.
Jeremy
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Nice! I think I'm going to need to order some of those see through targets soon. Thanks for sharing the video.
Robert
Thank you for the feedback.
Jeremy
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:Love it. Great second ball especially. Good to see I am not the only one that can have a house ball on #3 that makes you want to put your head through the glass.
Question, I noticed on yours, and hell, it may be everyones, that the geometry may be slightly different in regards to the right flipper on the upper playfield. My flipper stops considerably short of that upper right drain. So much so, that if a ball is slowly rolling off the metal one way guide to the drain, I have no chance to hit it. Yours seems to cover that gap better. Is this just my imagination? Is my game the one that is different than standard or is something modified on yours?
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for the great feedback!
I noticed there might have been a production change on the top right flipper - as if you look top down the flipper doesn't align with the top plastic. My flipper rests against a ball guide type of rail. I think when first designed it was meant to rest against a post that sat in further.
I will get a photo of this soon.
Jeremy
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Spent a little time working on Elektra this weekend and it is playing well now. Fixed a couple switches (one left to do) an replaced 6 lamp sockets. Two sockets were broken and 4 were #44/47 type. Now it has all the correct lamp sockets. Started installing a 470ohm resistor ac each lamp socket with an LED so the original boards work well.
Now with all the correct sockets I have all three LED's under the 3D crystal structure and each target now lights up a crystal. Very nice mod to the machine that just bolts on in place of the plastic.
What are you using for lamp sockets? can you post a picture or a link?
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:*snip* that the geometry may be slightly different in regards to the right flipper on the upper playfield. My flipper stops considerably short of that upper right drain. So much so, that if a ball is slowly rolling off the metal one way guide to the drain, I have no chance to hit it. Yours seems to cover that gap better. *snip*
i've uploaded a photo showing how mine appears to be different then what was first designed. See where the artwork on the plastic has the flipper tucked in more? And there's also a screw hole in the plastic where there would have been a screw post. Not sure why this was changed but there isn't a hole in my pf for a screw post.
Take a photo and show us how your flipper looks. You could try adjusting the flipper bat position.
Jeremy
DSC04808 (resized).JPGQuoted from metalkatt:Something is wrong with those flips because the ball can't go up the ramp freely... it should be under the plastic.....
You are correct about the ball not going up on the RH side of that ramp. But that is how the factory setup the flipper stop (wire form). At least there are three other ramps that don't have any obstructions
Quoted from BobLangelius:I don’t think the hole in the plastic is for a post. The hole at the end of the slot is a way to reduce the stress concentration at the end of the slot and keep the slot from cracking further into the plastic.
That said, I do believe my game has the flipper tucked in further to match the art on the plastic. But I cannot check as it is in storage.
Yep, good catch SDTMinSTL & BobLangelius on the relief hole.
Hmm, with the top RH flipper position issue - we might have an Elektra "Flipper gate" on our hands
Quoted from MrArt2u:In the club! Found a nice one locally, claimed single owner since new. A single owner at the beach. So a bit of surface rust and cabinet fade but a lovely playfield and backglass The worst, I’d say, is the mpu. It was heavily corroded so the guy’s tech dumped it.
I replaced the female mpu connectors and have an Altek in there now. She has no sound/speech (for now) and a few other issues to iron out but I’ll know more about that later.
I think knowing the correct mpu dipswitch settings would help me. Does anyone have a snapshot of their mpu dip switch settings I can use as a baseline?
Thanks! I look forward to reading all the club posts over the next few nights and taking lots of notes!
[quoted image]
Welcome to the club
20180306_191901 (resized).jpgQuoted from Colsond3:Got to work and here’s the after...shopped with orange Titan rubbers, LEDs, waxed upper and lower PF’s; added Bally coin door insert, translucent blue flips on main PF, a chromed shooter rod and shooter plate, polished the hell out of the coin door, switched the legs to refurbed chrome ones I had.
Cab is definitely nice on this one...no fade. Just have a couple bulb sockets to tweek that should be perfect.
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Looks great and tastefully done
I love my Elektra. It seems to be especially popular with non pinheads.
Quoted from pfcjimmy:Has anyone replaced the lining under the playfield for the lower playfield window? I was thinking this would work but wanted to see if someone else has already done this.
Neoprene Foam Weather Seal High Density Stripping with Adhesive Backing 1/2 Inch Wide 1/8 Inch Thick 50 Feet Long amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
That should work fine.
I removed mine as the original was shrinking. Behind the black strip the blue edge wraps around. To me that looked just as good or better than the black foam.
There's Pinball Resource also http://www.pbresource.com/lampcov.html
1 (resized).JPG
All the balls should be the same size. I don't think your lower flippers are longer than the originals - you are missing the rubber though. After a few months of playing mine I have changed the lower playfield to switch off after the timer expires. It changes the way you play the main game also.
Quoted from nightsearcher:Got the new CPR topper today
[quoted image]
Neat, thanks for the pic - had to check it out after seeing yours.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/elektra/
Check/replace the caps across the switches - the originals short very easily and cause all sorts of issues.
Quoted from vulcan903:Guys
Fuse has blown under the playfield. The fuse near the main flippers.
I think I am reading it as a 5amp 32 volt 311 fuse but cannot find an alternative.
What should I be using as this has taken down my Solenoids.
TIA
The book lists it as a 1 amp slow blow. My game has a 4 amp in it.
Good update
Quoted from koji:Thank you - Just an update, I finally was able to put some work on this again and have the S&T all fixed up.
In case it helps someone else, my symptom was a lot of static and no sound effects ( Background sound and voice did work)
---
Replacing the U14 LM3900 opamp resolved the static, afterwhich I could hear the sound effects, only they were very faint, and much too quiet in comparison to the other sound features.
At this point, although all the capacitors discharged properly, I figured I would try replacing the 2x 2uf caps, with a couple of 2.2uf /50v that I had on hand, and thankfully this did the trick. Sounds great.
-------
My next point for attention are these mini-flippers on the lower PF. I gather from some research that these are in fact unobtanium.
To that end, I was wondering what people are using as replacements? Mine seems to have 60s 2" EM flipper bats . (don't get me wrong, I love my 60s EMs, but clearly this is wrong).
I was also wondering if anyone had tried to get any 3D printed? It occurred to me that although 3D printing would not look quite as smooth, it could be an option to realistically get transparent RED mini flippers that would look pretty close to the original.
(I'm game to try to build a model, but if anyone has any exact dimentions and scans to work from, that might get me started).
Thank you-
Good update
Quoted from scampcamp:I haven't looked super close yet but... on the clear plastic that covers the main playfield... would it be much of a problem to remove it for cleaning?
Everything that's on top of the lower playfield has to be removed. It really depends on how far you want to go
20180221_200551 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ericpinballfan:Once removed, how well did it clean up?
Or, did you make a new one?
It cleaned up good enough with Novus. You could also polish it with a hand held buffer and different grades of automotive polishing compound.
From what I have read, the red flippers are correct. They are also shorter. I don't believe they are currently produced
Quoted from koji:Vec-tor helped me above with:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/elektra-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/16#post-5810861
Yellow is better than nothing
Quoted from petebest:Happy to be part of the Elektra club! I picked one up yesterday for cheap. Only took a couple hours and it’s up and going!
Congrats!
Quoted from Apinjunkie:A few pictures as promised, this is going to be a real enjoyable game for me, has a lot going for it. Machine is in great shape, back glass is in excellent condition and the upper Playfield shows almost no ware. One broken plastic and some minor wear on the front of the head but overall a really solid machine.
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Congrats on the purchase. I love mine and love to stream it on YouTube and Twitch
Also think about changing out the targets for translucent ones (the kind this machine originally came with). They really improve the look - but they can be a hassle to put in.
2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpgQuoted from Apinjunkie:(snip) are the lollipops on the lower play field the same length as the middle Playfield?
Yes, except they are yellow (with 1 green in the middle for 2x) - same switches and targets as main and upper pf.
Quoted from Apinjunkie:And So It Begins, just got off the phone with Steve at PBR and have a new set of stand ups on the way. Also a number of goodies from comet, can't wait to play with some lighting options with this one.
Next question, does that weird piece of weather-strip like material gasket that borders the lower play field serve an actual purpose. Mine's deteriorated pretty bad.I will certainly remove it but not sure if I want to replace it.
Nice!
The piece of weatherstrip is just cosmetic. It dresses up the rough edge of main playfield. I used some weatherstrip material on mine.
Quoted from Apinjunkie:Well that didn't take as long as I would have thought, I've had the machine less than a week and ran nto its first snag. Lost all power to all flippers the machine still boots and has sound and all the lights. Smelled a little electrical cooking from the cabinet. I checked the boards no obvious damage visually and Visually inspected the fuses and all look good. I'm new to this title, curious if anyone has had similar symptoms in the past or an idea of what I might want to look at first too breathe life back into it.
Break out the multimeter and go over the power supply board to check for voltages. I don't have the specifics so look at the schematics or find an article/website that shows troubleshooting. - good luck on the repairs
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