Kinda sorted the lighting problem. Seems that too many Comet LEDs is confusing the lighting circuits. Replaced some with incandescent builds and works fine. I'll test again with some other makes of LEDs to see if it's a common problem to my particular machine.

Hello everyone,
I have evidently have purchased a demon possessed Elektra. From what I understand, the issues have been attempted to be fixed by 2-3 people before me. Before I go into a long explanation, could someone post really clear pics of the 4 MPU connectors and top right connector of SDB? I need to check wire colors and positions. I have checked them against the schematic and have a mystery wire. I can share the weirdness that this machine exhibits after the pics if you want to give your thoughts.
Thanks, Damon

Do you think it is wiring or the boards? Keep in mind that if the head was off there are two free hanging plugs that can be swapped. Game will come up and play somewhat but you won't have lower flippers and all sorts of odd lights. Match up the colors on those cables to make sure they aren't mixed up. I labeled all the connector shells on mine and it makes it easy to reconnect after moving. If it helps I can try to get pictures of mine this week. It has all original boards and I have been using Elektra as a test fixture to verify Bally boards after I repair and upgrade them for people.

Well, there is a wire that isn’t on the schematic. I guess. It’s grey/brown and it’s on J4 MPU and J3 on SDB. Tell me if I’m missing something. Marked with a sharpie.

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Whoops, pics 1 and 4 go together. 2 and 3 together. Sorry.

Mjalexan, thanks for the pics. Just wanted to see if you had the same wire config.
If I’m playing a game with several credits, when the ball is on the lower playfield and hits what I think is target #2, it will add players to the game. The other half of the time, on the lower field, hitting same #2 target, will shut down game and start a new game from zero. Not rebooting, just like you pressed the credit button and started a new game. Two other weird occurrences.... while on the lower field, the right Outhole will activate repeatedly sometimes. Also the tilt light will appear on the glass, but not tilt play, just on. There are the symptoms.

Beautiful original MPU. Switched to Altek with no change
All connectors have been re pinned on all boards
Switch matrix you say. Maybe. All caps AND diodes have been replaced on all lower level targets. Diodes on credit button, and right saucer changed.
Can’t seem to find anything pinched or diodes touching.
Been over the lower playfield and #2 switch, and even the upper lever targets which are tied together.
I still think it’s somehow in the matrix or connectors.
Any ideas? I’m open to anything. Plus I forgot to secure the lower playfield, and went to put the main field back down and got hit by lower. Stuck a coil lug in the side of my face!!. I’ve about had it with this thing.

Check/replace the caps across the switches - the originals short very easily and cause all sorts of issues.

Guys

Fuse has blown under the playfield. The fuse near the main flippers.

I think I am reading it as a 5amp 32 volt 311 fuse but cannot find an alternative.

What should I be using as this has taken down my Solenoids.

TIA

The book lists it as a 1 amp slow blow. My game has a 4 amp in it.

1 amp slow blow.

Opps, Mine Now. LOL.
Thanks Alan for the game, hope little one didn't cry much.

If any of you have an original coinbox in your machine can you get some reference pictures of it? I didn't see any in the image gallery. Mine is missing. Have a couple friends looking for me but I need a picture for reference. Thanks in advance!

Also, if anyone has spare coin door parts I could use all the rejector hardware. That is missing on mine too.

My HUO Elektra has the classic Bally style coin box just like Harlem Globetrotters, Eight Ball dlx, etc.

Hello elektra fans, new owner of a project pin, hoping to get her going 100%

To that end, I noticed the r1 is clipped on the power board. I was wondering if this might be for any particular reason? Mine powers up and you can start a game, but some features do not work, and the ruleset seems messed up along with the sound fx.

Thank you.

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Answer my own question. It seems to be part of a bridge on R1, so doesn't affect the flipper and coil voltage. Curious if anyone knows why it is there... I went ahead and reconnected it.. no issues, no change. The issues for the game turned out to be a bad ground pin on one of the MPU headers.
************

I think the last issue now is the sound.
-The Speech is perfectly clear
-The drone background sound is clear
-In game sound effects seem to be all hiss / static .

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for the time-

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could share their Elektra settings (switches and soft settings), that they like to use? I see there are a number of liberal and conservative settings. I have the bg sound drone on which is ok.

Some settings such as the left bank standups on the main PF seem like a cons. setting is best, so it doesn't look like lights are out.. but some other things like having the ball kickout on the lower pf when there is time etc, obviously makes sense.

Anyway, just kind of wondering what most people run, as I really have no experience with this game, but want to give it a fair shake. thank you-

I like the default settings for the most part. The lower playfield is really where things can become more or less challenging. I have it set where gameplay continues, after Elekta units run out, until I lose the Ball. It can be more challenging if you have a set time after the units run out also.

Take a look at the sound chip U12. It controls those sounds.

Interesting. Thank you. Yes, that seems to be how mine is set up now.. I've had a couple of long ball times on the lower. I guess the trick would be making it such that the scoring is more balanced, I get the game could be won or lost based on those scores regardless of the upper PFs.

I hate timer drain balls. I noticed the PF can be adjusted for pitch slightly as well. Perhaps it could be set up to be more difficult.

Thank you- that's helpful, as honestly, I was not sure where to look first .

Do you know what other sound cards are compatible? I have a Xenon, and access to a Flash Gordon, but they both seem to be different models and have the two boards etc.

Thank you-

Some Flash Gordon machines had the same sound board as Xenon and some had a Squawk and Talk like Elektra.

Anybody know the paint code for this fabulous Girl??
Blueish/purple?

Hi guys, I picked up an Elektra that I am trying to save. Among many other problems, it was missing the entire left flipper assembly. I was able to buy the parts off of ebay but the flipper shaft is too short so it doesn't reach the second set screw in the flipper pawl. I thought, no problem, I will just order a new set of flippers but none of the vendors specify the shaft length. Can anyone help with a part number/source for getting the flipper with the longer shaft? In the picture I attached you can see the Elektra flipper on the right.

IMG_20200623_163641 (resized).jpg

Thanks!

Thank you - Just an update, I finally was able to put some work on this again and have the S&T all fixed up.

In case it helps someone else, my symptom was a lot of static and no sound effects ( Background sound and voice did work)

---

Replacing the U14 LM3900 opamp resolved the static, afterwhich I could hear the sound effects, only they were very faint, and much too quiet in comparison to the other sound features.

At this point, although all the capacitors discharged properly, I figured I would try replacing the 2x 2uf caps, with a couple of 2.2uf /50v that I had on hand, and thankfully this did the trick. Sounds great.

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My next point for attention are these mini-flippers on the lower PF. I gather from some research that these are in fact unobtanium.

To that end, I was wondering what people are using as replacements? Mine seems to have 60s 2" EM flipper bats . (don't get me wrong, I love my 60s EMs, but clearly this is wrong).

I was also wondering if anyone had tried to get any 3D printed? It occurred to me that although 3D printing would not look quite as smooth, it could be an option to realistically get transparent RED mini flippers that would look pretty close to the original.

(I'm game to try to build a model, but if anyone has any exact dimentions and scans to work from, that might get me started).

Thank you-

Good update

Good update

If someone was willing to make new aftermarket ones, I’d donate a spare flipper I have.... just an option.

Managed to get my Elektra working 100%. Finally, struggled through PF issues (some light touch-ups), lamp issues, sound issues, lower playfield kickout, grounds.. .. finally there though. DISCLAIMER! Didn't have enough warm LEDs on hand, so the BG was a bit brighter and blue-er than I would normally do..

I have no idea how this game should normally play. Seems to be pretty rare out there, so I'd appreciate any advice on set up.

Partiucarly, I wonder about the upper left flipper, is there a way to utilize passing the ball under it? I've found that I can sometimes nudge the ball from the upper kickout, to go under that flipper and drain on the more safe left-most ramp?

Not the best Gameplay video, but these can be elusive, I just wanted a multiball for demonstration.

Thank you-

Embryon uses the same flipper. A-4013-1 transparent red mini 2" flipper.
Noted characteristics is that the tip is rounded not pointed.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9264-6
or Action Pinball has ( 4 )

Cool, thanks for the tip!

Joined the club today. Has some upper playfield & backglass issues but other than that... it looks good.

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Welcome!!

You have entered the radiant dimension!. Very nice looking original boards.

Goes sometimes without saying, but def get that battery off and neutralize any potential leakage.. sometimes it isn't visible on the front, but it can leech through the leads on the back .

I'd also suggest just going with the NVRAM replacement for the 5101 so you never have to worry about a battery leaking again.

Would someone post some well lit photos of the upper playfield?

I am going to do a bunch of paint touch-ups.

Thanks very much.

I used the Alltek board from my Fireball 2 ( adjusted dip switches) & Elektra is acting almost normal. So... I'll have my friend go through the MPU & hopefully it wouldn't take much else to get it 100%.

I haven't looked super close yet but... on the clear plastic that covers the main playfield... would it be much of a problem to remove it for cleaning?

Yeah, it would have to be pretty dirty to require that... but as far as I have seen, you'd have to remove just about everything on the PF. The plexi does clean up pretty nicely with a bit of soap and a damp rag. Unless it is chipped, and I were replacing it, I can't imagine removing it for a cleaning.

Everything that's on top of the lower playfield has to be removed. It really depends on how far you want to go

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Once removed, how well did it clean up?
Or, did you make a new one?

It cleaned up good enough with Novus. You could also polish it with a hand held buffer and different grades of automotive polishing compound.

My Elektra has white mini flipper bats in lower playfield that say "flipper" I see many other games online where they use clear red flipper bats.... which is correct?

What color rubber are you using? I was thinking red for flippers & rest white.

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From what I have read, the red flippers are correct. They are also shorter. I don't believe they are currently produced

Vec-tor helped me above with:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/elektra-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/16#post-5810861

Yellow is better than nothing