It’s hard to say. Clearing all three playfields and doing what you did inside the cabinet is stellar (plastics, flips, and so on). I’m surprised you didn’t go complete resto on this and redo the cab, light box, etc.

If you’re looking for a quick sale, somebody will definitely pay extra for the cleared PF’s and what you’ve done. If it was completely restored down to every nut and bolt that would be different. Either way, at any price you may find a buyer if you are patient and have the space.

I was thinking $2800 OBO

Right saucer resolved. Just a bad connector on the mpu for J3 that has the leaf switch wires.

Anyone have a good replacement for the plastic tubes used behind the center targets?
I'm only finding flexible plastic tubing.

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I believe you're looking for these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-615-R

There's Pinball Resource also http://www.pbresource.com/lampcov.html
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Hi.
My first post here at Elektra.
3 questions:

The captive ball on upper pf was missing...is it normal size?

On lower pf the ball is bigger than normal size...is that ok?

I dont have the original red flippers on lower pf and these seems bigger/longer than the original. This makes me have VERY long playtime downstairs...any idea how long they should be?
Best regards.
Stefan Sweden

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All the balls should be the same size. I don't think your lower flippers are longer than the originals - you are missing the rubber though. After a few months of playing mine I have changed the lower playfield to switch off after the timer expires. It changes the way you play the main game also.

Thanks.
Yea, I will have the timer on lower pf to make it more worth collecting E-points at mainplay.

Hi Stefan,

try the 2” Flat Top White Flipper Plastics with Screw Hole from the pinball resource
http://www.pbresource.com/flippers.html C11241 $1.95ea, they would be fit better.
You also need the Thin Shoe and Shaft A6888E+

Regards
Jürgen

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The Elektra I picked up a few weeks back has the early proto backglass. My serial number is EEL1022 which apparently translates to #22. So that mean they made at least 22 games with the early glass. Any Elektra owners out there with the early glass have a higher serial number?...just curious how many early glasses were made.

Before and after
New plastics, flippers, rollovers, LEDs

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We never heard back about the overlay so my buddy challenged me to make it look better. Pretty happy with the result...

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Nice improvement!

Very nice! Go have a beer on me! I'll get you back next time I'm in NC

Got the new CPR topper today

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Neat, thanks for the pic - had to check it out after seeing yours.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/elektra/

Hello all-have the opportunity to look at an Elektra up the road, thinking about joining the club. Saw on that the OP mentioned plastics are unobtainium. Will CPR be doing a run in the future? What else should I pay attention to when checking out the machine? Upper playfield? TIA

You can get them at PPS: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-M-1330-195-COMP

Thanks for the heads up

I think PPS is out of plastic sets, but Pinball Ministry also sells them ( more money though)

So have an odd issue with a Bally Elektra. Thought I was done rebuilding the game but now have a curveball. Game plays as expected except when you go to the lower playfield, first the lower playfield GI flashes on and off, which it should stay on. Second the game will either play fine and you come back up top when you are done, or it will add additional players while playing in the lower playfield, or it will perform a full reset and start a new game.

I have no switch or coil issues in test mode. All switches register the proper switch number, none are "Stuck". I have all new connectors throughout the machine. I have new 2518-66 solenoid expander, new Aux GI Flasher boards (2), new 555 bulbs in the circuit line for those boards, I also have a new MPU. Now with the MPU I have the same issue with the original Bally MPU, a Weebly MPU and an Alltek MPU.

Could this be a Triac problem? I have never seen one of the fail before. Or could this be an Aux Lamp Driver board problem (bad decode chip) which I know controls the GI for the lower playfield?

Check all of your back box wiring for loose connections...
and bad grounds etc,etc,etc.

I’m picking one up today and am very excited about it.

Congrats

Decided to make things a lot easier when disconnecting all the connectors to remove the head on the machine. Added labels to all the connectors so they can be quickly plugged back into the proper spot. It is important since there are a couple connectors for the playfield that could otherwise get mixed up.
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Nice idea!

Missed the point here. Why take the head off. ( small doorway??)

Yes. It was off when I got the game for transport (used an HHR back then) and it was off one other time because of a narrow doorway to a room. When I bring it back home it will probably come off one more time.

Even if I didn't have to remove it the labels are a clean way to mark the cables.

Definitely can’t have enough labels on anything coming apart

I just listed this near mint backglass on kijiji.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-video-games-consoles-other/moncton/elektra-pinball-backglass/1443473744?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social

Due to me soon.... I'm in the club!

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Nice!

Soldered on that leg on tilt mech.

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Anyone got a spare/surplus upper playfield. I am intetested in getting one. Missed the boat a few months back as I belivee they were around then.
Just got an Elektra and its reasonable but some wear on the upper.

I've never seen any spare playfields for sale but someone in Europe was making an overlay for the upper

Yeah sorry, playfield overlay. A guy in Germany was producing them but I dont think he is a doing them now.

Does anyone have custom Elektra apron cards they would share? I am looking for some with artwork.

A guy here in the UK makes them.
Currently on ebay uk
303251545330

Try pincardz on Facebook. He makes a nice looking set.

I found these on another thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-you-create-your-own-custom-rule-cards/page/5#post-3758699

Still searching for an upper playfield overlay or would pay for the file and will print locally.

Hi fellow Elektra owners! All of a sudden I lost sound. The Squawk and Talk went from fully working to dead. When checking the voltages to the board I get zero volts at the -5V test point. There is -2,5ish on the connector at pin 7, and looking at the schematics the circuit has a "voltage doubler" so I'm guessing that the input value is correct. Or is it? Furthermore, I can tell that the board has been recapped at some point. Maybe not in this century, but still... Any input on where I should start probing to solve this problem would be great.

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I don’t think I will be allowed to sell this one...

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Things are missing and it may have errors but here is the most complete list of rules for Bally Elektra:

LOCKING BALLS FOR MULTIBALL

Making green 1-2-3 targets lites left rollover button lites. These lights switch between clockwise and counter clockwise rotation, every 5 seconds. 
Unlocks the top 4-5-6 target arrows can be achieved in twi ways:
#1-The ball rolling over the lit buttons, in the direction of rotation.
#2-By dropping the 2X-3X-5X "in-line" drop targets behind the captive ball.

-Making 4-5-6 targets lites the top saucer arrow to allow for locking a ball and it also lites the top right rollover button intermittently to score special.

-You can light the green arrow LOWER LOCK by completing ANY set of standup targets (including the easy to hit 3 center red targets) FIVE times. 

Making 5 blue target lights: 
Lites left outlane for 10 Elektra units and bottom saucer green arrow for LOCK ball. 
Note: You can "lane change" the needed blue targets with the left flipper at any time. 
Capturing balls in both the upper and lower LOCKS starts mulit-ball play.

OTHER TARGET RULES

Making the 3 red center targets: 
1st time opens right ball return gate. 
2nd time lites ball return arrow to collect bonus. 
3rd time lites 2 blue target lites. 
4th time lites 2 additional blue target lites. 
5th time lites outlane specials, left outlane for 10 Elektra units and bottom saucer arrow for LOCK ball. 
Completing 3 middle level targets? don't understand what this rule explains?

LIGHTING SPINNERS 
First saucer shot lites one (alternates as spinner is hit) second saucer lites both 
Captive ball drop target multipliers? not sure here

HOW TO OBTAIN ELEKTRA UNITS
There a many ways. Here are some: 
Completing any bank of standup targets awards 2 Elektra units. 
Making 5 blue targets: 
Lites left outlane for 10 Elektra units and bottom saucer arrow for lock ball. 
Note: The blue target bank becomes more and more difficult to complete. The targets needed to complete the bank change with each completed set. 
Note: You can "lane change" the needed blue targets with the left flipper at any time. 
Making either 1-2-3 or 4-5-6 targets in sequence or making 1 to 6 targets in any order flashes 2X target for 10? seconds. 
Target must be hit when flashing to collect the double bonus. 
Locking both balls awards an extra ball. (rule setting) 
Maximum – 1 extra ball per ball in play (rule setting) 
Striking the red target at the end of the captive ball hallway awards #? of Elektra units.

EXTENDED BALL PLAY: LOWER MINI-PLAYFIELD RULES


Each ball you play in Elektra can potentially be extended to the lower playfield for extra play time.

Mini-Playfield becomes active after ball-in-play enters out-hole and a minimum of (rule setting;default=6) Elektra units are achieved.

Each extended ball in the lower playfield starts fresh and no progress carries over from any previously extended ball. 
Your main objective is NOT to just hit everything or just keep the ball alive!

The Elektra units translate to the number of seconds you have unlimited balls while playing the lower playfield. Once all Elektra units have expired, it is sudden death and upon draining in the mini PF, either the next ball begins or, the game ends if it's the last ball in play.
(There is a lower playfield setting that allows "sudden death" after time expires or, to instantly end the ball when time expires. setting #?)

Strategy: Focus on hitting the 6 orange side targets but do not necessarily complete them. The reason is because striking them once lights them up but they all go out after you complete them. Striking a LIT orange target on the lower playfield awards the most points (5,000). Just lighting a target scores much fewer points (I think 1K). 
Lighting 5 orange targets lites the left orbit arrow. 
Completing all 6 side orange targets one time flashes the center green target for 2X and hitting that green target lites it solid and collects it. 
Lighting 12 orange target lites the right orbit arrow. 
The lower playfield does have a bonus which increases with each target bank completion and that is displayed in the center. I believe it has a max but I don't know the max amount.

Tilt penalty – Ball in play.

I want to replace these lamp sockets and hate the way led's fit in them. Can anyone give me a link to better sockets to replace them with?

Shes alive after years of being stored. Couple of issues. Mainly when I get 7 flashes on the MPU. Boots up. For a second the playfield lights go into attract then are permanently lit up. So no attract cycle.
The rollover stars on the upper playfield are the only things sequencing.

The lower playfield is unlit but attracts with some GI lights on and voice attract.

Any thoughts what might be going on?

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Do you have all the connectors correct? There are two in the back of that can be swapped. Game will still start but you'll have lighting issues and the lower playfield flippers won't work. May also need to double check your lamp driver and aux lamp drivers.

Thanks for this. Lower of flippers work ok. I do have an alltek LED board in situ but original aux lighting board, waiting for a LED one to come.

Got full sound today!

Left main flipper works, left upper does not. Right main and upper flipper does not work.

All switches tested ok. Solenoid works in dianostics. And in play.

Playfield flashes on boot up to the point when the top right drop targets are checked by the MPU.

Ok two main problems left.

Sound does not stay. On mpu 18, I set to 03 (the most sounds possible for the game) turn on and off and no sound and mpu 18 show 04 on the display.

Cannot get the main play field lights to flash in game or in attract. On boot up they do until the last solenoid check in boot then stay on and will not flash. Swapped the little AS-2518-68 over and they seem to be ok.