(Topic ID: 65987)

Elektra Owners Club & Restorations, Fans Also Welcome

By Hellfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,057 posts
  • 142 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by RandyW
  • Topic is favorited by 61 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What Reproduction parts would you be interested in for Your Elektra Machine?”

  • A Complete Plastics Set for your Elektra By CPR 58 votes
    29%
  • A complete New Playfields SET Including Upper, Main PF, and Bottom Bonus Playfields by CPR. 60 votes
    30%
  • Reproduction Production Backglass By CPR 29 votes
    15%
  • Reproduction of The Original Prototype BackGlass That was Censored. 51 votes
    26%

(Multiple choice - 198 votes by 121 Pinsiders)

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There are 1,057 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 22.
#601 5 years ago

In attract mode when the lights are flashing is it normal to hear the relay click for the lower playfield flippers? I am still tracking down the issue where it doesn't engage for Elektra time. It is acting like one if the wires is swapped with a lamp. I'm going to get a friend to help me check out all those connections.

Also finding that at least a half dozen of the caps had a lead cut on the switches and some may be missing. Were all the switches on Elektra supposed to have caps on them?

#602 5 years ago

Working backwards on your msg, the caps used were total CRAP. Couldn't handle the vibration and shorted out causing many switch issues. Better that they are gone.

Relay: it should only click once when attract mode switches to lower pf. Otherwise lower pf should be dark during attract (most of the time).

#603 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

Working backwards on your msg, the caps used were total CRAP. Couldn't handle the vibration and shorted out causing many switch issues. Better that they are gone.
Relay: it should only click once when attract mode switches to lower pf. Otherwise lower pf should be dark during attract (most of the time).

Knowing when that relay is supposed to engage helps. I think I may try making a short diagnostic program to step through each light one at a time so I can confirm each one lights when it should an no others come on or are missing. Will help determine if a wire is shorted or crossed and can dig into the wiring after that.

#604 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Also finding that at least a half dozen of the caps had a lead cut on the switches and some may be missing. Were all the switches on Elektra supposed to have caps on them?

Not all switches have caps. In general, caps are used on switches that are capable of being activated very quickly (fast hits on standup targets and rollover switches where the ball moves fast - sometimes pop bumpers). When the CPU is taking care of other business and not polling the switches, if a switch was quickly activated the CPU will not see it. Caps on the switches extend the time the switches appear closed allowing the CPU switch polling routine to sense them.

The playfield switch schematic shows which switches have capacitors.

I always replace faulty caps - games are spoiled when standup target hits don't get recognised half the time.

#605 5 years ago

I can see on the schematics which switches should have caps on them. There are a few switches out so I'm just going to go through them all one at a time to cleaned/adjust them and install a new cap on those switches that should have them. Will also be checking for broken diodes as well.

Found a couple messed up wires and now have the mini playfield working so the game is up and running. Just normal things to deal with now and then onto code updates and more work on the crystal mod for the center targets.

#606 5 years ago

Can’t wait . Thanks Robotworkship for all your work your going through to make Elektra an over the top pin it deserves to be

#607 5 years ago

J just picked up a example that needed some TLC but has some good potential. I am cleaning, replacing rubbers etc. and I ran into something that originally stumped me, and the more I have researched it, the more confused I am getting.

There is a very large rubber ring that, according to the including diagram that I have from Marco, which is based on the manual, it is supposed to loop around the upper playfield chamber ball. I have consulted multiple photos of the playfield, including the original flyer, and some have it, but most don't. The original manual shows a 4" ring, but doesn't show a location. How do you have yours? Is there a ring in front of the captive ball or not? Note the playfield on the flyer. It clearly shows it. Any advice would be VERY appreciated. In fact, if you do have it, a photo showing how it is routed on your machine would be epic! Thanks in advance. If you don't, an explanation as to why would be great too.

#608 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

J just picked up a example that needed some TLC but has some good potential. I am cleaning, replacing rubbers etc. and I ran into something that originally stumped me, and the more I have researched it, the more confused I am getting.
There is a very large rubber ring that, according to the including diagram that I have from Marco, which is based on the manual, it is supposed to loop around the upper playfield chamber ball. I have consulted multiple photos of the playfield, including the original flyer, and some have it, but most don't. The original manual shows a 4" ring, but doesn't show a location. How do you have yours? Is there a ring in front of the captive ball or not? Note the playfield on the flyer. It clearly shows it. Any advice would be VERY appreciated. In fact, if you do have it, a photo showing how it is routed on your machine would be epic! Thanks in advance. If you don't, an explanation as to why would be great too.

Wow, I hadn't noticed that! Here's how mine is setup
DSC04804 (resized).JPGDSC04804 (resized).JPG

The manual shows the large ring as a dotted line. It goes around the two posts and circles the ball guides that hold the captive ball. The 4 inch ring explains to me why there are 3 posts around the 5x standup target. I may toss a large ring on mine and see how it plays. It could add some more "action" to the upper playfield.

#609 5 years ago

Mine has the rubber ring running in front of the captive ball. I probably won't be able to get pictures until tomorrow. There is one in this thread though. If you click on the link at the top of this thread for view image gallery I saw a picture on the second page that shows hoe the large ring can be used.

#610 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

More
Wow, I hadn't noticed that! Here's how mine is setup

The manual shows the large ring as a dotted line. It goes around the two posts and circles the ball guides that hold the captive ball. The 4 inch ring explains to me why there are 3 posts around the 5x standup target. I may toss a large ring on mine and see how it plays. It could add some more "action" to the upper playfield.

Where did you get the red and blue post caps? I've only ever seen those in white or black.

#611 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

More
Where did you get the red and blue post caps? I've only ever seen those in white or black.

Thanks, Titan pinball. You can find them under the rubber ring selection
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52

I also am using some light blue & black on this machine (video coming soon)

Post%20Caps-800x800 (resized).jpgPost%20Caps-800x800 (resized).jpg
#612 5 years ago

Bah, I just realized I forgot to add the photos concerning the mystery (for me at least) rubber that is on some games.

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#613 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

Bah, I just realized I forgot to add the photos concerning the mystery (for me at least) rubber that is on some games.

Yeah, that 4"ring goes so that it's in front of the ball, that's how mine is set. I tried it the other way and prefer to hit the band, instead of directly into the ball.

#614 5 years ago

Stencils are ready!

http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=4821

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#617 5 years ago

Yep stencils ordered

#618 5 years ago

The "game finished" video is posted (woot!).

It shows off the super nice translucent targets from Bob Langelius at www.langelius.com. And the neat colored post caps from Titan pinball.

Next to make is the game play vid (after I try out the 4 inch ring around the captive ball). Enjoy

Jeremy & the Pinball Mayhem team

#619 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Last nights project. This sits between the two metal ramps and replaces the plastic piece there. I'm going to print this in a few other translucent colors (red, yellow, clear) and see how they look in the game and when lit. I may end up tweaking the crystal design but I think this is a good first attempt.

Here are the other colors. I'm leaning toward the yellow and clear crystal versions. I just ordered some LEDs with dual lights on longer wires. One will go up inside the crystal. Will get pictures of them installed on the game. I tested the blue one and it would be better with an led inside the crystal too. The blue is a bit too dark but may work with a bright LED inside. I think this will end up looking a lot better in the game than the flat plastic piece that is normally between the ramps.

Robert

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#620 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

*snip* The original manual shows a 4" ring, but doesn't show a location. How do you have yours? Is there a ring in front of the captive ball or not? Note the playfield on the flyer. It clearly shows it. Any advice would be VERY appreciated. In fact, if you do have it, a photo showing how it is routed on your machine would be epic! *snip*

Here you go, I changed the way mine was setup. It does appear to provide more action up top so it will stay this way. Thanks for pointing out the difference.

DSC04806 (resized).JPGDSC04806 (resized).JPG

Jeremy

#621 5 years ago

I had a chance to try the new crystals out this evening and I like the way they are turning out. I think the yellow is my favorite with the white a close second. Once I get the new LED's and have the second one go up inside the each of the three crystals it should look even better. With the really bright LED in the Blue that may look ok too all lit up.

To finish it off a pair of small stickers that go around the base in front and behind the crystals would really make it look like it was part of the game. The graphic arts and stickers aren't my thing but may be a good project for someone else on the forum used to making them. Even as it is I think it is a nice improvement to the looks of the game.

So instead of just the lamp turning on when you hit those red targets the crystal for each target will light up too.

Once I get the new LED's and and get that sorted out I'll be able to make these for anyone that would like to add one to their game.

Robert

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#622 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I had a chance to try the new crystals out this evening and I like the way they are turning out. I think the yellow is my favorite with the white a close second. Once I get the new LED's and have the second one go up inside the each of the three crystals it should look even better. With the really bright LED in the Blue that may look ok too all lit up.
To finish it off a pair of small stickers that go around the base in front and behind the crystals would really make it look like it was part of the game. The graphic arts and stickers aren't my thing but may be a good project for someone else on the forum used to making them. Even as it is I think it is a nice improvement to the looks of the game.
So instead of just the lamp turning on when you hit those red targets the crystal for each target will light up too.
Once I get the new LED's and and get that sorted out I'll be able to make these for anyone that would like to add one to their game.
Robert

HI i would also prefer the white ones, because the crystals need a cool appearance. But why did you makethe crystals so small?
You should make the height to the lower edge of the glass plate.

#623 5 years ago
Quoted from Sly311271:

More
HI i would also prefer the white ones, because the crystals need a cool appearance. But why did you makethe crystals so small?
You should make the height to the lower edge of the glass plate.

They could probably be a little taller but I need to leave some clearance between them and the glass. The angle of the photo may make them look shorter than they are.

Still need to see how they look when those new LEDs arrive. Also need to change two sockets there since one is broken and another was replaced with a 44 style socket.

I'll probably be making these in both yellow and white to start.

#624 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I had a chance to try the new crystals out this evening and I like the way they are turning out. I think the yellow is my favorite with the white a close second. Once I get the new LED's and have the second one go up inside the each of the three crystals it should look even better. With the really bright LED in the Blue that may look ok too all lit up.
To finish it off a pair of small stickers that go around the base in front and behind the crystals would really make it look like it was part of the game. The graphic arts and stickers aren't my thing but may be a good project for someone else on the forum used to making them. Even as it is I think it is a nice improvement to the looks of the game.
So instead of just the lamp turning on when you hit those red targets the crystal for each target will light up too.
Once I get the new LED's and and get that sorted out I'll be able to make these for anyone that would like to add one to their game.
Robert

Tip my cap. This is pretty cool. You could even get color matching rubber caps from Titan to sync with whatever color you end up keeping on it.

#625 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

More
Tip my cap. This is pretty cool. You could even get color matching rubber caps from Titan to sync with whatever color you end up keeping on it.

I definitely have to order some of those titan caps. For these new crystals and the other plastics too.

This evening I was able to drill a hole under each crystal and tried a commet LED under them. Looks much better. Still need to add another 3/4" to the length of the wires so it sits right in the base of each crystal structure. Once I do that will get some fresh pictures.

#626 5 years ago

This may be a good thread to request a hard top set for the upper and lower playfields..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread/page/2#post-4449742

#627 5 years ago

I was able to get a quick video of the crystal installed. Only two of the LED's are installed in the crystals since there is a #44 type socket for the third bulb that I still need to change out. It is cool to see each crystal light up as you hit the targets. Looks better in person than the video captured.

this one was done in translucent orange and is the one that I'm going to go with on the machine. I'll be making more of these orange ones and still have a couple yellow and some natural ones if anyone else is looking to upgrade.

Robert

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#628 5 years ago

The gameplay video is done. Let me know what you think.

Jeremy & the Pinball Mayhem crew

#629 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

The gameplay video is done. Let me know what you think.

Jeremy & the Pinball Mayhem crew

Nice! I think I'm going to need to order some of those see through targets soon. Thanks for sharing the video.

Robert

#630 5 years ago

If you are switching to the translucent targets you will need to change the switches also.

The translucent targets are not compatible with the riveted face target switches.

#631 5 years ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

If you are switching to the translucent targets you will need to change the switches also.
The translucent targets are not compatible with the riveted face target switches.

Good to know. Do you have a part number for the new switches that are used with those targets?

#632 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Good to know. Do you have a part number for the new switches that are used with those targets?

I was lucky, all the switches on mine were screwed together. 1/2 of them needed different spacers, backers, switch blades to work properly. I have an assortment of that stuff from other repairs. If you have some old switch parts - you could always drill out the rivets and bolt them together.

Jeremy

#633 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Nice! I think I'm going to need to order some of those see through targets soon. Thanks for sharing the video.
Robert

Thank you for the feedback.

Jeremy

#634 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Good to know. Do you have a part number for the new switches that are used with those targets?

It could be difficult as Elektra has a different switch bracket for the mid playfield ( because of the added PF thickness). You would probably have to use the old brackets there.

I have seen some things at Marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/22-1034-02 (out of stock)

Steve at PBR was working on some switch/bracket kits. I'm not sure if he has put that on the back burner or not. Give him a call.

Bob

#635 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

The gameplay video is done. Let me know what you think.

Jeremy & the Pinball Mayhem crew

Love it. Great second ball especially. Good to see I am not the only one that can have a house ball on #3 that makes you want to put your head through the glass.

Question, I noticed on yours, and hell, it may be everyones, that the geometry may be slightly different in regards to the right flipper on the upper playfield. My flipper stops considerably short of that upper right drain. So much so, that if a ball is slowly rolling off the metal one way guide to the drain, I have no chance to hit it. Yours seems to cover that gap better. Is this just my imagination? Is my game the one that is different than standard or is something modified on yours?

Great video. Thanks for posting.

#636 5 years ago

Steve at PBR has all you need
http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm

Switch Blades Medium Thickness .010 $0.39ea
Switch Contacts Contact-SM-X $0.36ea

Take 20 and you are Save

you have to rearrange the switch and finish, it is not enough just to swap the sheet.

Of course, if you have too much money then you can also buy 19 new switches for 123,5 $ + shipping at Marcos

#637 5 years ago

I think just going with the contacts will work for me. I'll have to add those to the list! Just have a few more minor bugs to work out of the game first.

#638 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

Love it. Great second ball especially. Good to see I am not the only one that can have a house ball on #3 that makes you want to put your head through the glass.
Question, I noticed on yours, and hell, it may be everyones, that the geometry may be slightly different in regards to the right flipper on the upper playfield. My flipper stops considerably short of that upper right drain. So much so, that if a ball is slowly rolling off the metal one way guide to the drain, I have no chance to hit it. Yours seems to cover that gap better. Is this just my imagination? Is my game the one that is different than standard or is something modified on yours?
Great video. Thanks for posting.

Thank you for the great feedback!

I noticed there might have been a production change on the top right flipper - as if you look top down the flipper doesn't align with the top plastic. My flipper rests against a ball guide type of rail. I think when first designed it was meant to rest against a post that sat in further.

I will get a photo of this soon.

Jeremy

#639 5 years ago

I've been thinking more about mods I'd like to do and for the moment am going to focus on ones that woul work on all Elektra machines. Started off with the crystal upgrade and hope to dig into the code soon. Later on may try a few hardware and code changes.

One thing I think may help is to keep track of the loops up the left ramp. On games like Dr Who or BOP you can get special bonuses for hitting multiple loops. Are there any other shots that would be good to keep track of? Maybe for multiple saucer shots?

When first launching the ball if the upper left flipper is up I have seen the ball go through the opening and come down that last ramp. Seems like a unique shot worthy of a skill shot. With another switch or sensor looking for the ball going through there on an unused switch input that could be coded for.

#640 5 years ago

Spent a little time working on Elektra this weekend and it is playing well now. Fixed a couple switches (one left to do) an replaced 6 lamp sockets. Two sockets were broken and 4 were #44/47 type. Now it has all the correct lamp sockets. Started installing a 470ohm resistor ac each lamp socket with an LED so the original boards work well.

Now with all the correct sockets I have all three LED's under the 3D crystal structure and each target now lights up a crystal. Very nice mod to the machine that just bolts on in place of the plastic.

#641 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Spent a little time working on Elektra this weekend and it is playing well now. Fixed a couple switches (one left to do) an replaced 6 lamp sockets. Two sockets were broken and 4 were #44/47 type. Now it has all the correct lamp sockets. Started installing a 470ohm resistor ac each lamp socket with an LED so the original boards work well.
Now with all the correct sockets I have all three LED's under the 3D crystal structure and each target now lights up a crystal. Very nice mod to the machine that just bolts on in place of the plastic.

What are you using for lamp sockets? can you post a picture or a link?

#642 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

*snip* that the geometry may be slightly different in regards to the right flipper on the upper playfield. My flipper stops considerably short of that upper right drain. So much so, that if a ball is slowly rolling off the metal one way guide to the drain, I have no chance to hit it. Yours seems to cover that gap better. *snip*

i've uploaded a photo showing how mine appears to be different then what was first designed. See where the artwork on the plastic has the flipper tucked in more? And there's also a screw hole in the plastic where there would have been a screw post. Not sure why this was changed but there isn't a hole in my pf for a screw post.

Take a photo and show us how your flipper looks. You could try adjusting the flipper bat position.

Jeremy

DSC04808 (resized).JPGDSC04808 (resized).JPG
#643 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

What are you using for lamp sockets? can you post a picture or a link?

When I got my machine it came with part of any extra playfield that was mostly stripped. There were still some sockets left on it and I was able to get sockets from that. I don't know of anyone that carries the exact replacement white sockets that match the machine. They probable stopped making those sockets for safety reasons. Those are the most painful sockets I've ever dealt with.

The upper playfield on my game is really bad. That extra upper will get touched up/cleared and eventually will swap it out with the one on the game.

#644 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

i've uploaded a photo showing how mine appears to be different then what was first designed. See where the artwork on the plastic has the flipper tucked in more? And there's also a screw hole in the plastic where there would have been a screw post. Not sure why this was changed but there isn't a hole in my pf for a screw post.
Take a photo and show us how your flipper looks. You could try adjusting the flipper bat position.
Jeremy

Actually, I think this is standard stuff. Mine seems to be the exact same. The flipper rests against the same piece of metal. The hole that you mention in the plastic almost seems to be there for relief so it can bend and spread to both the upper and lower sections. There must be something else that causes what I am seeing or experiencing on my end. Thanks for checking though, and thanks a lot for the photo. Glad to know I am not playing a problem child.
IMG_20180618_000548 (resized).jpgIMG_20180618_000548 (resized).jpg

#645 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

Actually, I think this is standard stuff. Mine seems to be the exact same. The flipper rests against the same piece of metal. The hole that you mention in the plastic almost seems to be there for relief so it can bend and spread to both the upper and lower sections. There must be something else that causes what I am seeing or experiencing on my end. Thanks for checking though, and thanks a lot for the photo. Glad to know I am not playing a problem child.

Something is wrong with those flips because the ball can't go up the ramp freely... it should be under the plastic.....

#646 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

i've uploaded a photo showing how mine appears to be different then what was first designed. See where the artwork on the plastic has the flipper tucked in more? And there's also a screw hole in the plastic where there would have been a screw post. Not sure why this was changed but there isn't a hole in my pf for a screw post.
Take a photo and show us how your flipper looks. You could try adjusting the flipper bat position.
Jeremy

I don’t think the hole in the plastic is for a post. The hole at the end of the slot is a way to reduce the stress concentration at the end of the slot and keep the slot from cracking further into the plastic.

That said, I do believe my game has the flipper tucked in further to match the art on the plastic. But I cannot check as it is in storage.

#647 5 years ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Something is wrong with those flips because the ball can't go up the ramp freely... it should be under the plastic.....

You are correct about the ball not going up on the RH side of that ramp. But that is how the factory setup the flipper stop (wire form). At least there are three other ramps that don't have any obstructions

#648 5 years ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

I don’t think the hole in the plastic is for a post. The hole at the end of the slot is a way to reduce the stress concentration at the end of the slot and keep the slot from cracking further into the plastic.
That said, I do believe my game has the flipper tucked in further to match the art on the plastic. But I cannot check as it is in storage.

Yep, good catch SDTMinSTL & BobLangelius on the relief hole.

Hmm, with the top RH flipper position issue - we might have an Elektra "Flipper gate" on our hands

#649 5 years ago
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

Yep, good catch sdtminstl & boblangelius on the relief hole.
Hmm, with the top RH flipper position issue - we might have an Elektra "Flipper gate" on our hands

Elektra Flipper Gate! I like it.

Just a theory here, but I wonder if maybe this was added on later runs because of a geometry issue. Feedback from frustrated operators often spurred these things. It could have been something as simple as the plastic across from the flipper above the post getting hit at point blank range too much where it was decided the extra angle wasn't worth it.

In my experience, the angle at which that far right spinner has to be hit requires a ball to almost bounce or carom off the far right metal rail and makes that flipper nub sticking out either a non issue or worst case, more of a deflection for the ball to travel to the middle of the upper playfield. It's hard to describe, but if you played mine, I think you'd find, it does not seem to affect it negatively. I have a nice stream setup I have yet to use and this would be a great reason for its christening I suppose.

#650 5 years ago

At any rate, for what its worth, I have a lot of games that cost a lot more than this one. It is probably my favorite for some reason. It's addictive as hell. You guys were onto something. Haha

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