(Topic ID: 285642)

Elektra issues

By petebest

1 year ago


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  • 28 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by petebest
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Elektra-PS (resized).JPG
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Screen Shot 2021-01-12 at 10.22.52 AM (resized).png
57BF5C11-ABFF-4CC4-883C-9E9BC1471B11 (resized).jpeg

#1 1 year ago

Hi all-

The sound on my Elektra went out. So I recapped the S&T board, but still no sound. Thinking it was something more severe with the board, I sent it off to a VERY reputable technician. The board was serviced and game tested before returning to me.

I install it, no sound. Same as before.

If I press the red test button on the board multiple times, sometimes I will get some faint/distorted background sound. But it’s REALLY faint. This faint sound can be controlled by the coin door volume switch, so I know that’s working.

I do have setting 18 setup on selection 3, so all audio should be working. As far as the program selection goes.

I am getting the proper number of flashes on the board LED @ startup

All pin connectors have been checked and verified

I have read through the extensive S&T board explanation, but the logic is way over my head.

So - the question is: what could cause a lack of audio, when a freshly rebuilt board is installed?

VERY frustrated

Thx
Pete

#2 1 year ago

Bad Audio Pot. Replace, don't try and clean.

#3 1 year ago

Likely causes, (as mentioned) bad audio pot that was jolted around during shipping or bad speaker or speaker connection is in the wring spot.

Check you speaker with ohms resistance test on a voltmeter and report the reading you get here.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

Bad Audio Pot. Replace, don't try and clean.

The pots on the board are new, the one on the coin door is new

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Likely causes, (as mentioned) bad audio pot that was jolted around during shipping or bad speaker or speaker connection is in the wring spot.
Check you speaker with ohms resistance test on a voltmeter and report the reading you get here.

Pots on board are new, as is the one on the coin door.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Likely causes, (as mentioned) bad audio pot that was jolted around during shipping or bad speaker or speaker connection is in the wring spot.
Check you speaker with ohms resistance test on a voltmeter and report the reading you get here.

My multimeter is dead, And I don’t have any fresh 9v batteries at home. I’ll have to get some tomorrow

I did hook up a new, out of the box speaker however.

No change

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from petebest:

My multimeter is dead, And I don’t have any fresh 9v batteries at home. I’ll have to get some tomorrow
I did hook up a new, out of the box speaker however.
No change

In that case, it does not seem that the sound board is getting the correct voltages to boot?...
Did you notice what the sound board LED does upon powering up?

Maybe a supply voltage to the board is missing? Get that meter working and let us know.

#8 1 year ago

Any pictures of the board installed and how you have both connectors plugged in?

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Any pictures of the board installed and how you have both connectors plugged in?

57BF5C11-ABFF-4CC4-883C-9E9BC1471B11 (resized).jpeg
#10 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

In that case, it does not seem that the sound board is getting the correct voltages to boot?...
Did you notice what the sound board LED does upon powering up?
Maybe a supply voltage to the board is missing? Get that meter working and let us know.

I get 5 flashes when I power it on.

I do not have an electrical background, I’m happy to test the supply voltage at the board but I don’t know how?

#11 1 year ago

Never mind. I looked at some other pictures and games here and the connectors look ok. Test the supply voltages to the S&T board. From Pinwiki :
Screen Shot 2021-01-12 at 10.22.52 AM (resized).png

The TEST POINTS usually marked [TP#] look like "wire loops". Put your meter dial on DC volts, black lead on GND(TP1) and red lead on each test point. Check TP 2,3, and 4.

Please understand that I know the board is assumed to be working. (These voltage tests will help to tell you if the game is supplying the proper voltages to the SOUND BOARD.)

#12 1 year ago

The speaker plug is fine. There isn't a connector under the large capacitor.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from petebest:

I get 5 flashes when I power it on.
I do not have an electrical background, I’m happy to test the supply voltage at the board but I don’t know how?

Are you counting the first flicker/flash? Including the flicker(which in my experience is a full flash) you should have six flashes.

#14 1 year ago

Are the lamps working in the backbox? NO GI=no -5volts = no last flash. If you are getting five flashes all the other supply voltages are ok.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Never mind. I looked at some other pictures and games here and the connectors look ok. Test the supply voltages to the S&T board. From Pinwiki :
[quoted image]
The TEST POINTS usually marked [TP#] look like "wire loops". Put your meter dial on DC volts, black lead on GND(TP1) and red lead on each test point. Check TP 2,3, and 4.
Please understand that I know the board is assumed to be working. (These voltage tests will help to tell you if the game is supplying the proper voltages to the SOUND BOARD.)

Thanks a ton

I’ll give this a try

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Never mind. I looked at some other pictures and games here and the connectors look ok. Test the supply voltages to the S&T board. From Pinwiki :
[quoted image]
The TEST POINTS usually marked [TP#] look like "wire loops". Put your meter dial on DC volts, black lead on GND(TP1) and red lead on each test point. Check TP 2,3, and 4.
Please understand that I know the board is assumed to be working. (These voltage tests will help to tell you if the game is supplying the proper voltages to the SOUND BOARD.)

Ok - so I was able to get back to the game today.

TP 2 & 3 are testing correct as defined by you above.

However, TP 4 is reading 0.92 not the -5 as your table indicates it should be.

Now I have this info - what do I do with it? What does this improper reading indicate?

Thx for your help
Pete

#17 1 year ago

The -5 volts DC that should be present at TP4 is generated by the LM 320 (aka 7905) that is identified as VR2. This is a pretty simple circuit that includes a couple of diodes (CR7 & CR8) and a few capacitors (including C37). If the board was just serviced and confirmed as working, I would trace the problem back to your connectors. Do you have connectivity from J1 pin 7 to the positive side of the capacitor labeled as C37? J1 pin 7 on the S&T sound board comes from the power supply board in the bottom of the cabinet (J4, pin 9) via a solid orange wire. See if you also have connectivity from the power supply board J4 pin 9 to the S&T sound board J1 pin 7. J4 pin 9 on the power supply board also feeds the backbox general illumination. Are all of the general illumination lights in the backbox working?

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyPinWiz:

The -5 volts DC that should be present at TP4 is generated by the LM 320 (aka 7905) that is identified as VR2. This is a pretty simple circuit that includes a couple of diodes (CR7 & CR8) and a few capacitors (including C37). If the board was just serviced and confirmed as working, I would trace the problem back to your connectors. Do you have connectivity from J1 pin 7 to the positive side of the capacitor labeled as C37? J1 pin 7 on the S&T sound board comes from the power supply board in the bottom of the cabinet (J4, pin 9) via a solid orange wire. See if you also have connectivity from the power supply board J4 pin 9 to the S&T sound board J1 pin 7. J4 pin 9 on the power supply board also feeds the backbox general illumination. Are all of the general illumination lights in the backbox working?

Alright. Before I get to checking the voltages as you’ve so graciously outlined for me - the easiest question to answe from your reply is regarding the GI lights in the back box. It had not occurred to me before you asked - but no. Only a couple of the lights are working.

The bulbs that are working are not dim - That’s just the photography

What can be discerned from this knowledge?

Thx!
Pete

image (resized).jpg
#19 1 year ago

Well, there is no GI so that’s likely why you have no sounds. Are your fuses in the lower cabinet all testing good with your meter? It could explain the missing voltages for GI and at the sound board.

More complex question, did the fuse blow because a bridge, socket, or bulb is shorted? It happens a lot more than you would think. Testing the bridge is easy but Finding a bulb or socket problem could prove tricky and time consuming so hopefully you just need a fuse. Tracking down those problems quickly requires patience and/or experience.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Well, there is no GI so that’s likely why you have no sounds. Are your fuses in the lower cabinet all testing good with your meter? It could explain the missing voltages for GI and at the sound board.
More complex question, did the fuse blow because a bridge, socket, or bulb is shorted? It happens a lot more than you would think. Testing the bridge is easy but Finding a bulb or socket problem could prove tricky and time consuming so hopefully you just need a fuse. Tracking down those problems quickly requires patience and/or experience.

Well- all fuses test good with the meter. And good continuity from each side of the fuse holder.

What’s next?

Thx!
Pete

#21 1 year ago

Next? Figure out why there is no -5 VDC at your sound board. See post #17 above. Your symptoms all point to a connection or wire not feeding voltage to the sounds board or to the GI in the head.

#22 1 year ago

See post #14

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyPinWiz:

The -5 volts DC that should be present at TP4 is generated by the LM 320 (aka 7905) that is identified as VR2. This is a pretty simple circuit that includes a couple of diodes (CR7 & CR8) and a few capacitors (including C37). If the board was just serviced and confirmed as working, I would trace the problem back to your connectors. Do you have connectivity from J1 pin 7 to the positive side of the capacitor labeled as C37? J1 pin 7 on the S&T sound board comes from the power supply board in the bottom of the cabinet (J4, pin 9) via a solid orange wire. See if you also have connectivity from the power supply board J4 pin 9 to the S&T sound board J1 pin 7. J4 pin 9 on the power supply board also feeds the backbox general illumination. Are all of the general illumination lights in the backbox working?

Back home tonight.

- I have continuity from J1 pin7 to c37 +.
- I have continuity from J4 pin9 to j1 pin7.

So. To recap, I have no GI working, and no real audio.

The ONLY time I can get ANY audio to work, I’ll press the test button 4 times which should play the game over sound. (No sound plays) BUT after I press the test button 4x I press the red test button on top of t he S&T board THEN I get the game over sounds. And it goes on forever.

Regarding the rectifier board - I found an issue.

TP1 reads at 7.9 (should be 6.5 I think)
TP2 reads at 230 (should be 230 I think)
TP3 reads 16 (should be 11.9 I think)
TP4 reads ZERO (should be 6 I think)
TP5 reads 45.3 (should be 43 I think)

And from what I can decipher - TP4 is associated with the GI circuit......so there’s def and issue here. But what?

Additionally - I had a new lamp and aux lamp board so I installed them too.

Thanks for the continued assistance! It’s super frustrating.

Pete

#24 1 year ago

Do you have a manual for this game, for reference?

#25 1 year ago

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

This will help you with your game as well. Good resource.

#26 1 year ago

TP4. No GI. You may need to remove the screws on the Rec. board and look at the back to reflow solder or, possibly repin burnt pin(s) in a connector at the Rec. board. The rest of the voltages look ok... Even though the fuse is good, the voltage flow for GI is broken somewhere on the Rec. board or the pins supplying it. That board really does not do much to the AC voltage that is missing, beyond fusing it. So, you’ll just need to figure out at what hop it’s missing. Also, make certain you are testing for AC voltage with your meter for the GI circuit. There is no ground with AC, just “supply” and “return”. It’s a different setting on your meter.

#27 1 year ago

For reference...

Elektra-PS (resized).JPG
#28 1 year ago

Thanks for your help everyone. Game is now 100% functional. I found multiple failures in the rectifier board. This was my first attempt at resurrecting a solid state game. Lots of lessons learned. And some wasted money spent. Next time - I’ll start at the power supply and work forward. Seems obvious now, but like I said. I learned a lot in the process

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