(Topic ID: 243134)

Electrical power design for a game room

By swampwiz

4 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by mbwalker
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 4 years ago

    This discussion is for someone who has the ability to specify the electrical power specification for his gameroom because of a new home or home add-on construction, or converting his garage or basement, etc. The mains power system here is NEMA (i.e., 120 V), although certainly with a calculation adjustment, this could apply to other mains voltage systems.

    First, of course, there is the question of design for the pins. AIUI, the rule is that 4 pins can fit on a 15A circuit while 6 pins can fit on a 20A circuit. This seems to be a "rule of thumb" for the era of arcades, and I wonder if it applies to the pins of the current era. With this in mind, I have a question as to the feasibility of having a such a set of pins as all being switched as on, and controlling this with a wall switch - i.e., the switch (a beefy one at that) would immediately power up the pins (I have converted all of my pre-switch era pins from the 60s into having a switch that powers up immediately). I wonder if having the games all powered up at the same time would somehow cause there to be a large (out-of-phase, inductive) current draw because of the transformers, even if the only thing being powered up would be the Hold relay (for the EMs). And if that it is a concern, I wonder if there is any commercial off-the-shelf device that could stagger the powering up (e.g., by delaying the power by a second for each line). Perhaps this would be doable if each 20A circuit fed 2 wall switches that they fed 3 pins?

    There is also the question of neon signs being powered up at the same time, and with the same concern of the current draw. I seem to remember reading that this would be an issue as I have described.

    #8 4 years ago

    OK, so it looks like there is a Lutron controller is the best solution. I'll look into that.

    I should say that my prior experience was having a room with 6 pins (mix of EM & SS) on a 15A breaker that I would have friends over, and the breaker was always tripping, so I want to avoid that at all costs. I would have no problem with the rule that only 1 or 2 pins in a set of however many could actually be played at a time.

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    I have 3 +2010 pins and 3 90's pins, all with LEDs. All are on a 15A breaker for now. Out of the 6 pins, we only play one pin at a time. Plus two active subs are on the same breaker too
    According to my SmartHome power meter, 6 pins draw ~850W idle, including subs. I plan on adding a 20A line in the lineup this summer to split things up. Prior, I had a Bally EM Freedom - that alone drew about 600W all by itself.

    Was that Bally EM Freedom load in inactive mode, or a peak while active? I have 12 EMs, so I could go either 2x6 or 3x4. I have (or will have) 10 SSs, so that should work as 2x5.

    #10 4 years ago
    Quoted from Tyamry:We just built a house and had Lutron (lutron.com) put in throughout. I have a remote control that runs all of my pins and neon lights downstairs and a separate one for upstairs. I just press a button on the remote and they all come on (including neon lights) and press another and they all go off. No problems at all on start up or playing them all at once.

    I wonder what the total amperage load is for those neon signs (I presume it is NEMA mains).

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