(Topic ID: 256738)

Electrical expertise...Booz Barometer


By Oldgoat

8 days ago



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  • 18 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Oldgoat
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    #1 8 days ago

    Here's an odd one for y'all. I have a Booz barometer. This is the old bartop game where you attempt to move a metal loop over a metal rod without making contact with the rod. It is powered by a 6v lantern battery. The problem with the game is that, when the battery is new, if you just look at the rod funny, the buzzer goes, the coil fires and the game ends. On the other hand, when the battery is towards the end of its life, you can pretty well keep it on the rod without the game ending. Sparks fly when you contact the rod, the buzzer sounds, albeit rather sickly, but the coil won't fire. Obviously, between those two scenarios, the game work well. However, that 'sweet spot' doesn't last long. Seems like it stays at the too sensitive state for a long time (lots of plays), and once it starts to deteriorate it goes fast. So, I thought I could wire a pot into the circuit to dial in the sensitivity while it is 'too hot'. My question is what type of potentiometer should I use? Or is there another answer? (Converting it to plug in is not an option)

    #2 8 days ago
    Quoted from Oldgoat:

    I thought I could wire a pot into the circuit

    I'd think adding the pot, resistance to it would drain the battery quicker.

    LTG : )

    #3 8 days ago

    Junk!

    Throw it away!

    But you've wasted too much time already so it would be best if I paypal you $25 to throw it in the mail with my address and I will deal with it for you! Blech!

    Yer welcom .

    #4 8 days ago

    Check the link for more information and google for videos

    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/boozbar.htm

    #5 8 days ago
    Quoted from eyeamred2u:

    Check the link for more information and google for videos
    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/boozbar.htm

    It works fine, the issue is the sensitivity. That having been said I did have to replace the buzzer, so perhaps I need to find a larger one that requires more oomph, thereby increasing the overall resistance of the circuit. I was just thinking a pot would allow me to fine tune it.

    #6 8 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    I'd think adding the pot, resistance to it would drain the battery quicker.
    LTG : )

    I'm sure it would somewhat, but I was thinking a small resistance one might do the trick. I guess I should hook up my DC voltage regulator and see exactly where the sweet spot is. I know they make component linear DC voltage regulators; however, I have no idea if they would work for this sort of thing. Maybe that's a better way to go?

    #7 8 days ago

    What you have described is current draw. Something is staying "on", therefore creating a trickle charge. The pot is not going to help. Get the meter out and start measuring voltage. Find the high resistance or high current draw.

    #8 8 days ago
    Quoted from eyeamred2u:

    Check the link for more information and google for videos

    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/boozbar.htm

    Schematic is there. Maybe the coin mech (or another part) is shorting the battery to the frame, and not just completing the circuit.

    Could also be the bell coil wires failing and shorting.

    #9 8 days ago

    I have one of these for sale, if anyone wishes.....

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #10 8 days ago
    Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

    I have one of these for sale, if anyone wishes.....[quoted image]

    If it is free, I will pay for shipping.

    #11 8 days ago
    Quoted from eyeamred2u:

    What you have described is current draw. Something is staying "on", therefore creating a trickle charge. The pot is not going to help. Get the meter out and start measuring voltage. Find the high resistance or high current draw.

    I have, obviously, not been very clear in my initial description of the situation. It works fine right now, it is simply too sensitive when a new battery is put in and it remains that way for a large number of plays. By too sensitive, I mean that if you barely brush the rod for a fraction of a second, the buzzer sounds, game ends. It is not staying on. Insert your nickle, the light comes on as it should. If you hit the rod with the ring, a second circuit is completed which activates the buzzer and a coil that drops the coin and ends the game. I need to increase the resistance of the circuit the rod is on so it is not activated with a slight brush against the rod. Hopefully, that makes more sense.

    #12 8 days ago

    I put a switching power supply in mine. No more lantern battery and you can dial the voltage in. That may solve your issue.

    http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/804/switching-power-supply-15-amp.htm

    #13 8 days ago
    Quoted from jahbarron:

    I put a switching power supply in mine. No more lantern battery and you can dial the voltage in. That may solve your issue.
    http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/804/switching-power-supply-15-amp.htm

    While that would work great, I don't want a cord/plug.

    #14 8 days ago
    Quoted from Oldgoat:

    I have, obviously, not been very clear in my initial description of the situation. It works fine right now, it is simply too sensitive when a new battery is put in and it remains that way for a large number of plays. By too sensitive, I mean that if you barely brush the rod for a fraction of a second, the buzzer sounds, game ends. It is not staying on. Insert your nickle, the light comes on as it should. If you hit the rod with the ring, a second circuit is completed which activates the buzzer and a coil that drops the coin and ends the game. I need to increase the resistance of the circuit the rod is on so it is not activated with a slight brush against the rod. Hopefully, that makes more sense.

    Sounds like the game is working as it should then.

    #15 8 days ago

    Hi,
    IMHO I would measure the resistance in the coil/bell part of the circuit. Between TB-2 and TB-3. Then add a lesser resistor into the Lamp part of the circuit between TB-3 and the lamp socket. Approximately 10% below the resistance of the coil/bell circuit. This should help to balance the resistances between the two parallel branches. This should equalize the current flow and hopefully stop the sparks. If you want to even out the sensitivity or make the contact time between the handle and the wire to be longer then add a capacitor between TB-2 and the top of the coil. This should not only delay the activation of the coil but prolong its activation or hold time.

    #16 7 days ago
    Quoted from arthurrag:

    Hi,
    IMHO I would measure the resistance in the coil/bell part of the circuit. Between TB-2 and TB-3. Then add a lesser resistor into the Lamp part of the circuit between TB-3 and the lamp socket. Approximately 10% below the resistance of the coil/bell circuit. This should help to balance the resistances between the two parallel branches. This should equalize the current flow and hopefully stop the sparks. If you want to even out the sensitivity or make the contact time between the handle and the wire to be longer then add a capacitor between TB-2 and the top of the coil. This should not only delay the activation of the coil but prolong its activation or hold time.

    Thanks. So...recommendations on what specs for the cap?

    #17 7 days ago

    Hmmmm, Put a 100 micro farad capacitor in series with a 1okOhm resistor. The coil is involved also so you must measure the coil, add to that a resistor which equals 10kOhms between the two of them. Then add a 500 micro farad capacitor in series. I think s this should give you about a 1 second delay. I am digging into my brain from 30 years ago though so this could also erupt Mt. Vesuvius.

    #18 7 days ago
    Quoted from arthurrag:

    Hmmmm, Put a 100 micro farad capacitor in series with a 1okOhm resistor. The coil is involved also so you must measure the coil, add to that a resistor which equals 10kOhms between the two of them. Then add a 500 micro farad capacitor in series. I think s this should give you about a 1 second delay. I am digging into my brain from 30 years ago though so this could also erupt Mt. Vesuvius.

    Thanks I'll give that a try.

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