(Topic ID: 139976)

Electrical advise needed please


By Spencer

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by CactusJack
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 4 years ago

    I just got a trash project and sent the board out for repair, board is back and I'd like to install it and try it out. Power cord coming in was damaged and hacked back together, so I'm not sure it's correct.

    Your typical grounded plug, I have 3 colors black, white and green with a a yellow tracer. I need to be sure of what to connect those to with the 3 wires coming off the board.

    Any help would be appreciated.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

    #2 4 years ago

    Black usually goes to the fused input line. So check your wire continuity to the fuse clip...that one will be black.

    #3 4 years ago

    Not much help. Green is usually your ground.

    #4 4 years ago

    Yes, it appears the center green/yellow goes to the transformer case, so surely ground.

    The wire going to the fuse clip will get black.

    The remaining wire, white.

    That's how I would hook it up...

    #5 4 years ago

    that blue looks to tie into the fuse trace - hot
    that green /yellow ties into a lead on the transformer and the trace into those two molex connectors. not a ground
    the solid green ties into the trace on the 3pin molex.
    if it was my project blue-black , green/yellow-white , green -green (ground)
    have a link for a schematic?

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from cody_chunn:

    Yes, it appears the center green/yellow goes to the transformer case, so surely ground.
    The wire going to the fuse clip will get black.
    The remaining wire, white.
    That's how I would hook it up...

    Not to sure about that green wire going to the transformer. it looks more like the green is going to that small square black component next to the transformer.
    But Blue is going to the fuse, and the fuse goes to one of the black transformer leads.
    Yellow is going to both the transformer and that small square black component.

    #7 4 years ago

    This is what I can make off it.
    Blue-Wht = live
    Yel-Grn = neutral
    Grn = ground

    transfor 2.jpg

    #8 4 years ago
    Quoted from zaza:

    This is what I can make off it.
    Blue-Wht = live
    Yel-Grn = neutral
    Grn = ground
    transfor 2.jpg

    the undefined part seems to be a relay:

    https://abra-electronics.com/electromechanical/relays/itt-takamisawa-or-lz-relays/lz-130-lz-series-spdt-12vdc-lz-130.html

    http://www.fujitsu.com/downloads/MICRO/fcai/relays/lz.pdf

    If you follow the traces, is looks like this:

    pinside-pcb.JPG

    Same as zaza showed.

    #9 4 years ago

    Seems to be a relay based on what? A small relay in line with the line voltage on neutral? Doesn't make much sense. More likely to be a choke of some sort. BTW, that part you list is rated at 12VDC. If that's the coil voltage, It'd be toast when line voltage was applied.
    Also, it appears that the at mystery component may have ceen removed, or someone did a real bad solder re-flow job on the back.

    #10 4 years ago
    Quoted from girloveswaffles:

    Seems to be a relay based on what? A small relay in line with the line voltage on neutral? Doesn't make much sense. More likely to be a choke of some sort. BTW, that part you list is rated at 12VDC. If that's the coil voltage, It'd be toast when line voltage was applied.
    Also, it appears that the at mystery component may have ceen removed, or someone did a real bad solder re-flow job on the back.

    It would appear the relay is designed to drive a 120vac load connected to the 2 pin molex connector.

    What is this for? A band box or something (automated electronics)

    #11 4 years ago

    I guess it's for a lucky egg chicken machine (capsule vendor).

    #12 4 years ago
    Quoted from girloveswaffles:

    Seems to be a relay based on what? A small relay in line with the line voltage on neutral? Doesn't make much sense. More likely to be a choke of some sort. BTW, that part you list is rated at 12VDC. If that's the coil voltage, It'd be toast when line voltage was applied.
    Also, it appears that the at mystery component may have ceen removed, or someone did a real bad solder re-flow job on the back.

    The relay coil is driven with a low voltage (I 5V from the 7805 regulator or think 12V elsewhere from the board or) and is not connected to the inline voltage.

    When the relay-coil is powered, the hot L (NO) is switched over the NC-contact to the 2-pin-Molex connector.

    You will not grill the relay, because the relay-coil has no connection to the (high) inline voltage. Only functio of the relay ist, to switch power to the 2-pin-connector.

    Andy yes, it is a bad reflow solder job, but the missing part you might think of, are VIAs, I think, because they look like new and it seems, that there was no componet before.

    #13 4 years ago

    Not entirely visible but it looks like the relays is powered before the 7805 (....but not relevant for power cord connections)
    lucky egg.jpg

    #14 4 years ago
    Quoted from CactusJack:

    I guess it's for a lucky egg chicken machine (capsule vendor).

    Yes, but it's the Flintstones version. I have no manual and can't find anything.

    #15 4 years ago

    cant find anything either other than they where made by animated electronics.

    #16 4 years ago

    Alright, finally got to working on it. Hooked it up as suggested and it beeped and I could hear the speaker crackle. I thought great, progress! Closed the door, put in a quarter, wouldn't take it. Managed to find a token inside the machine, pushed it in........ And..... Yabba Dabba Doo!! Fred started spinning, speaker/voice worked great. Fred kept spinning as did the redemption tray, without thinking I unplugged it, instead of hitting the prize release switch, to stop the action.

    Called the wife down to see, plugged it back in and no go. Checked the fuse, its ok, speaker still has the crackle but when inserting a coin, nothing happens. So depressing, lol.

    So I guess progress, any ideas where to start? I really need to find a wiring diagram and I know I could fix this.

    #17 4 years ago

    Ok update. Unplugged it, triple checked the fuse etc, left it off for about 5 mins. Plugged it back it, and Fred started to spin right away. Used the switch to stop him this time but that's it, insert coin, no go.

    Noticed the power cord was looking bad, replaced it, left it off alittle longer this time to do the swap. Plugged it back in, it beeped like it did the first time, thought I was in business!

    Put in a token, Fred spinned, said "Yabba, Dabba, Doo!" Used the switch to stop him, this time, he said "Dino loves you!"

    Tried another token and nothing!! Seems if I leave it unplugged for abit to cool down something, it works great.....

    #18 4 years ago

    One last update for tonight...

    I think it actually may be the "coin-slide" mechanism. It appears to be 2 magnets and when they contact that triggers a start? Im not familiar with this set-up. Ive got it now that I can make it work 3-4 times in a row, wont work for 2-3 and then works again 2-3 in a row.

    Everything else seems right, when it works its fantastic, I think the next step is replacing the coin sensor? Not even sure what is called or where to look for one.

    Just so excited for my 2 girls to see it, play it they are so excited to get some prizes!

    #19 4 years ago

    What you describe sounds like a reed switch, similar to what is used on a alarmed window or door. One block is the magnet, the other block the reed switch. Some are normally open and others are normally closed and change state when a magnet comes in close proximety with it.

    There should be two wires going to it. Disconnect the main logic and check the ohms rating across it (not just continuity beep) when both open and closed.

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