You need to check the flipper coil resistances with the EOS switch open. A closed EOS switch places a short across the hold winding on the coil. Put a piece of paper between the EOS switch when measuring.

Across the set of lugs for the thrust winding you should measure around 3.1 ohms, the other set of lugs for the hold winding should measure around 320 ohms.

How much gap have you set the EOS switch to when the flipper is at full stroke? Note, to check/set the switch gap you should do it by pushing the plunger in the coil, not by rotating the crank. Otherwise the setting doesn't take any mechanical component wear/slack into consideration.

What type of fuse are you using?

Might be an idea to change both diodes on that flipper coil.

If you're still having problems, post some clear pictures.

The EOS switch on these games is Normally Closed. If you have N/O switches you need to flip it round and make it normally closed.
However, note the secondary switch on that left flippers EOS switch stack is the switch to activate the upper left flipper and that secondary switch is Normally Open..
So on the main left flipper, the first EOS switch activated by the flipper crank is N/C, the secondary EOS switch on the stack is N/O.

Please post pictures showing the switches.

Thought I should mention something I have ran across before. I put on some new shiny EOS switches, and assumed that when they were closed they registered as such...well sure enough the new switches had some kind of protective coating on them I guess, and after a little sand paper they registered correctly. Might want to take a second and just make sure the new switch is registering.

I'd suspect a shorted diode on the coil. Cut the diode off that's across the lugs showing the short. If the short disappears and the coil doesn't look cooked, replace the two diodes on the coil if you have spare diodes. Note, diodes are directional and one side has a silver band around it. Replace with diodes oriented the same way.