Quoted from Tsskinne:
Check out www.nvram.weebly he makes one I believe and great products
Quoted from Matthew2015:
i will change the rectifier board next.
it does look like it may been worked on already on the left side of it.
This was a common fix to place the bridge rectifiers off the board to save time when games were on location. The weird thing here is that there 2 rectifiers off to the side heat sink but it looks like the original BR2 is still present on the board. Also your GI looks dim. I think you should be good to go with a new -54 from NVRAM as long as your transformer is good. Make sure you get the 1/2 inch plastic spacers that go under the board otherwise you will have to reuse the old ones. The new -54 design has the rectifiers top mounted with heat sinks so there won't be a need for heat transfer compound on the mounting plate.
unplug J1 through J4 connectors from the rectifier board. Replace bad fuses and power it up. If the fuse(s) still blow, then you know it's the rectifier board or transformer. If no fuses blow, measure the voltages at the test points and compare them with normal ranges on Pinwiki, Bally Stern section. I believe J1 goes to the playfield. If fuse blows with J1 connected, this will isolate the problem to the playfield.
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