(Topic ID: 243173)

eight ball deluxe won't boot


By Matthew2015

29 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 69 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by Matthew2015
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 69 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 29 days ago

need help with fixing a problem.
game will light up gi bulbs but wont boot or turn on score display leds.
score display leds have a faint glow.
strange noise is coming the speaker.
only changed fuses so far but no luck.

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#2 29 days ago

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern Open the head and count the flashes on the CPU board and you'll have a pretty good indication of the problem.

How recently was the game working, and what was going on when it stopped?

#3 29 days ago

the mpu/cpu board is brand new and the lamp driver is new too.
mpu shows is a solid green light.
squawk and talk board flashes a few times.
squawk and talk board and solenoid driver board are original .

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#4 29 days ago

replaced all fuses.
f1 fuse blew after replacing them.

#5 29 days ago

I would start with a new rectifier board and also look for anything touching

#6 28 days ago

i will change the rectifier board next.
it does look like it may been worked on already on the left side of it.

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#7 28 days ago

Sometimes it fixes everything and if not you know you have a good power source and then easier to isolate and fix. I had a dead pin with just solid light on my mpu and only gi's and the rectifier fixed it. Always good to start at the source and then move on. Make sure nothing is touching under the playfield anywhere since you are blowing a fuse

#8 28 days ago

will this one work as a replacement?

also it looks like the bridge rectifier in a different place too.

will i need to solder anything to the board?

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#9 28 days ago

Check out www.nvram.weebly he makes one I believe and great products

#10 28 days ago

It looks correct and yes you will have to solder about 12 or 15 wires to the board. Use small gauge solder to help. I also use some heat tape to hold in place and clip and re strip the wire and recrimp any burnt connectors.

#11 28 days ago
Quoted from Buzz:

It looks correct and yes you will have to solder about 12 or 15 wires to the board. Use small gauge solder to help. I also use some heat tape to hold in place and clip and re strip the wire and recrimp any burnt connectors.

No, the -54 are all connectors. No soldering needed to replace.

What the op is looking at is correct. The bridge rectifiers are just mounted on the topside, with a heat sink on it.

#12 28 days ago

Wow sorry I own some Ballys and none have rectifiers in the cab and just thought they would all be the same just different location. Well hell that's a lot easier. Sorry for bad information but still believe the rectifier and burnt pins are the place to start. I love this place and the information that gets shared.

#13 28 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Check out www.nvram.weebly he makes one I believe and great products

+1

#14 28 days ago
Quoted from Matthew2015:

i will change the rectifier board next.
it does look like it may been worked on already on the left side of it.
[quoted image]

This was a common fix to place the bridge rectifiers off the board to save time when games were on location. The weird thing here is that there 2 rectifiers off to the side heat sink but it looks like the original BR2 is still present on the board. Also your GI looks dim. I think you should be good to go with a new -54 from NVRAM as long as your transformer is good. Make sure you get the 1/2 inch plastic spacers that go under the board otherwise you will have to reuse the old ones. The new -54 design has the rectifiers top mounted with heat sinks so there won't be a need for heat transfer compound on the mounting plate.

unplug J1 through J4 connectors from the rectifier board. Replace bad fuses and power it up. If the fuse(s) still blow, then you know it's the rectifier board or transformer. If no fuses blow, measure the voltages at the test points and compare them with normal ranges on Pinwiki, Bally Stern section. I believe J1 goes to the playfield. If fuse blows with J1 connected, this will isolate the problem to the playfield.

#15 28 days ago

unplugged J1 though J4 connectors and it still blew the f1 fuse.
so that narrows it down to the transformer or rectifier board , right?

i bought a power rectifier board and some more fuses so i will wait for that before doing anything else.

#16 28 days ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Wow sorry I own some Ballys and none have rectifiers in the cab and just thought they would all be the same just different location. Well hell that's a lot easier. Sorry for bad information but still believe the rectifier and burnt pins are the place to start. I love this place and the information that gets shared.

Yeah, the rectifier in the cabinet is a much better design, and way easier to work on.

#17 28 days ago
Quoted from Matthew2015:

unplugged J1 though J4 connectors and it still blew the f1 fuse.
so that narrows it down to the transformer or rectifier board , right?
i bought a power rectifier board and some more fuses so i will wait for that before doing anything else.

It sounds like replacing the rectifier board is the next step. The old one could probably be rebuilt, but most likely isn’t worth your time.

#18 24 days ago

just got the new rectifier board.

taking out the old board but has wires attached to some bridge rectifiers on the side
but the new one won't need those , right?
i think someone already tried to rebuild the old board already.

also wondering about what the large plastic dome thing does .

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#19 23 days ago
Quoted from Matthew2015:

just got the new rectifier board.
taking out the old board but has wires attached to some bridge rectifiers on the side
but the new one won't need those , right?
i think someone already tried to rebuild the old board already.
also wondering about what the large plastic dome thing does .[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, that is someone replacing the bridges and wiring direct to the board (and with a big ass heat sink). You can take all that stuff off. You won’t need it with the new rectifier board you purchased.

The plastic dome is a protective cover for the power switch. It is original from the factory.

#20 23 days ago

i am almost done installing the new power rectifier.

that power switch with the cover has a yellow wire coming from the right that is broken.
is that the ground wire and will affect anything the way it is?

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#21 23 days ago

i dont know what to do now ....
i put in the new power board but nothing changed.
it still only lights up gi lights but nothing on the backbox.
before with the other power board it would light the mpu light
but now nothing in the backbox lights up
not even the score leds are dim anymore, they don't even come on at all.
i plugged in everything the way it should.

did i overlook something??

i think if it takes any more parts to fix it , i will just give up.

#22 23 days ago

It's time to pull out your multi-meter and measure the voltages on the test points of the rectifier board, then on the solenoid driver board in the back box.

#23 22 days ago

okay ..checked the tp points
voltage looks fine.
reinserted the connectors on power board and solenoid board.
after reentering the solenoid board connectors it showed a green light on the mpu and squawk and talk board

the mpu is a alltek mpu has shows green light stays on self test light and 5+v light on , no flashes.
squawk and talk board green light flashes 5 times and sw1 switch will play the sound effects if pressed.

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#24 22 days ago

still no glow from the score led's .
maybe aux lamp driver board is bad ?

#25 22 days ago

now its showing a dim glow on the score displays
like only one number is visible on each display.

#26 22 days ago

going to test out the solenoid driver board next
fuse is good but need to check 5v transister next and the capacitors
can't tell if anything been changed on it already.

i have checked everywhere else but found nothing that could cause a problem.

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#27 22 days ago

Can you post the voltage you're getting from the rectifier board, and the solenoid board?

Also, is the green led on the mpu blinking at start up, or just locking on? If blinking, how many times?

#28 22 days ago

the voltages on the rectifier board look normal , shows the same voltage as shown on the tp spots.
not tried the solenoid board voltages yet.

green light on the mpu is not blinking on start up , it just stays solid green once it comes on.
it has 2 lights , one for self test and one for +5v but both lights lock on .

score display is not as dim but only shows one digit.

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#29 22 days ago

that score display is the ball/credit display
the other displays show a faint digit but not bright as that one.

now i'm hearing some popping or crackling sound coming from the speaker on the pinball.

#30 22 days ago

If the voltages on the MPU board measure in spec as you say and the self test LED stays stuck on, then your MPU board is not starting up.

What happens when you press the reset switch on the MPU board?

Measure the voltage at TP5 then TP1 on the solenoid driver board and report the exact readings.

#31 22 days ago

nothing happens when i push the reset button on the mpu.

#32 22 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Measure the voltage at TP5 then TP1 on the solenoid driver board and report the exact readings.

What about the voltage measurements on the solenoid driver board?

#33 21 days ago

voltages on solenoid board were:

11.5 volts for TP5

4.4 volts for TP1

based on the manual , thats a bit lower than it should be .

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#34 21 days ago

i left the voltage meter in for a bit.

the voltage for TP1 slowly went from 4.4 volts to 4.5 volts after a few minutes.

the voltage for TP5 starts at 11.5 volts but levels out to about 11.2 volts after a few minutes.

#35 21 days ago

try TP2 and TP4 next?

#36 21 days ago
Quoted from Matthew2015:

voltages on solenoid board were:
11.5 volts for TP5
4.4 volts for TP1
based on the manual , thats a bit lower than it should be .

Indeed, the 11.5V at TP5 suggests you've likely got a bad connection at (and/or faulty) capacitor C23 on the solenoid driver board. It's the big blue capacitor to the left of the large square heatsink. You should be reading between 14.5V - 16.5V at TP5 (ignore the schematic saying 11.9VDC)

Measure the voltage across the C23 capacitor with the meter leads connected as per the picture below. If you get zero volts, you have a bad connection to the capacitor. Check the two red wires to it and on the back of the board are well soldered - resolder if they look bad/cracked. More likely though it will be a bad connection at the J3 connector pin 10 (red wire) on the solenoid driver board whose whole purpose is to provide ground to that C23 capacitor. You can do a ground mod on the back of the solenoid driver board to overcome this but let's see what you measure first.

If you measure 11.5V across that capacitor (less likely in this case), then that capacitor is faulty (dead).

I went into a discussion on a similar electrical issue with someone else yesterday if you want to read the nitty gritty - that post relates to the high voltage for the displays but same principal here and the voltages listed in the diagram are more relevant to your issue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-ss-grand-slam-low-voltage-from-power-supply-module-for-displays#post-5009748

SDB_C23_MeasureMeter.jpg

#37 21 days ago

i need to solder the red wires under the capacitor
they were barley on and the on the left feel off while putting the multimeter on it.

#38 21 days ago

not tested voltages yet but seems to be firing some coils now after fixing the wires.

#39 21 days ago

the game still boot yet
still has no score displays

but it is working better than it was.

the mpu blinks now.
the test button on the door works and will fire coils and gi lights works and all playfield bulbs light up and flash.

#40 21 days ago

mpu flashes 7 times
self test light goes off.
the row of 6 bulbs in the lower left corner of the backbox keep flashing 5 of the bulbs.
score displays flash some number on screen on for a moment when turned on but but don't stay on.

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#41 21 days ago

not sure if this means anything
but it does like the score displays can light up.
it only flashed this for only a few milliseconds.

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#42 21 days ago

the sw1 switch on the squawk and talk board plays sound but does play startup sound on boot.

#43 21 days ago

the flippers work while in test mode.

self test fires the drop targets on the right side but thats it.
then it flashes a light under the play field 3 times that is under the out hole coil.
let me know what i should check next.

i'm going to take a break now.

#44 21 days ago

Making progress..
Regarding the displays, 2 things to try:

(1). With the machine off, disconnect connectors J2 and J3 from the MPU board, J4 connector from the lamp driver board and J1 connector from the Auxilliary lamp driver board. Power on the game. Do the displays work?

(2). With the machine off, disconnect all displays except player 1 display. Power on. Does player 1 display look normal? If not, power off, disconnect player 1 display and connect the player 2 display. Power on. Does player 2 display look normal?

#45 20 days ago

great news!

after rebuilding the connections and cleaning them on the boards in the backbox
the solenoids now work and the sound works.

so now the only thing left is the display not coming on.
but besides that , it plays just fine.

#46 19 days ago

cheeked solenoid board voltages

TP 2 measures 160 volts

TP 4 measures 250 volts

#47 19 days ago
Quoted from Matthew2015:

after rebuilding the connections and cleaning them on the boards in the backbox

Exactly which connectors did you rebuild and clean?

Quoted from Matthew2015:

cheeked solenoid board voltages

TP 2 measures 160 volts

TP2 is a little low but I would expect the displays to still come up. The voltage at TP2 can be adjusted on the solenoid driver board but we will come to that next time based on the results of the following:

What voltages do you read at the actual displays? Connect your black multi-meter lead to TP3 on a display board and measure the voltage at TP2 on the same display (should be 5 volts) and TP1 which should read the same as TP2 at the solenoid driver board.

#48 19 days ago

the voltage on the displays were the same as the solenoid board.

TP 2 = 160 volts

TP 1 = 5 volts

#49 19 days ago
Quoted from Matthew2015:

the voltage on the displays were the same as the solenoid board.

TP 2 = 160 volts

TP 1 = 5 volts

So power connectivity to the displays is ok.
Connect the black meter lead to ground somewhere, connect the red meter lead to either TP2 on the solenoid driver board or TP1 on a display. Adjust the little blue pot on the solenoid driver board with a small flat head screw driver until you get the voltage to around 180 volts.

SDB_HV_Adjust.jpg

#50 19 days ago

the close up shows the arrow on the hv pot is to the left.
i assume i will need to turn it to the right.
but i will turn it a tiny bit at a time to be safe.

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