(Topic ID: 154753)

Eight Ball Deluxe rectifier TP3 over voltage...Updated with Pics

By DnDPins

8 years ago


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There are 78 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 8 years ago

I just picked up an EBD LE and it was playing perfectly for a few days and then while it was on, it got stuck with background sound and only 3 feature lamps and GI on, and when I looked at the Altek MPU, the over voltage indicator was on. Here is what happens during a boot:
1) All boot sequences finish, no over voltage light is on
2) The displays flash for a split second and the coin door lock out coil pulls
3) The game is stuck with the left orbit feature lamps on and background sound. Also, the red test button on the coin door does not work.
4) The over voltage indicator is on (Altek MPU)

With only the transformer and input connector on the rectifier board I checked the voltages and TP3 reads 56.4 VDC instead of 11.9

What would cause this? Bridge Rectifier? Resistor? What should my next steps be.

Thanks,
Dave

#2 8 years ago

you need to remember the overvoltage light also comes on where there is no voltage.

the 12v is whats used to make the 5v that the mpu runs on.

The schematics and the 5v section on the SBD would be a good place to start looking. There are test points there. you need to get that board sorted first.

#3 8 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

you need to remember the overvoltage light also comes on where there is no voltage.
the 12v is whats used to make the 5v that the mpu runs on.
The schematics and the 5v section on the SBD would be a good place to start looking. There are test points there. you need to get that board sorted first.

But TP3 on the rectifier board does not have the correct voltage (56.4 VDC instead of 11.9) so doesn't that confirm an issue with the rectifier board?

-1
#4 8 years ago

Bump

#5 8 years ago

after less than two hours ?

#6 8 years ago
Quoted from DnDPins:

But TP3 on the rectifier board does not have the correct voltage (56.4 VDC instead of 11.9) so doesn't that confirm an issue with the rectifier board?

No the rectifier only converts the AC to DC, it doesn't regulate any voltage. A voltage that far out of spec would indicate a problem with the transformer, but I don't think it's bad since your game starts to boot.

If you measure AC between J5 pins 3 and 6 what do you read?
If you measure DC on TP1 of the SDB what do you read?
How many flashes of the MPU do you get?
If you read DC on TP3 of the MPU what do you read?

#7 8 years ago

I think it is bad, 56V which is going to be regulated down to 5V will probably result in overheating. Should be 14-15V or so.
I'm thinking the transformer, or wiring being connected to the wrong output voltage.
Also this 11.9V goes to the MPU, frying certain components.

#8 8 years ago

I only have the Transformer and Input connector on the rectifier board at this time. Is it advisable to plug other connectors in to measure voltages in the backbox or does the problem seem to be isolated to the transformer or rectifier board. Obviously, I do not want to harm the boards. Next steps???

Thanks,
Dave

#9 8 years ago

Bump

#10 8 years ago

Did you check the voltages at the transformer (as dothedoo mentioned above)?

Here is another discussion on how to do this...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-test-a-transformer-output-voltage

With 56V at TP3 of the rectifier, I would not hook up any other boards until that is dealt with.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from DnDPins:

I only have the Transformer and Input connector on the rectifier board at this time. Is it advisable to plug other connectors in to measure voltages in the backbox or does the problem seem to be isolated to the transformer or rectifier board. Obviously, I do not want to harm the boards. Next steps???
Thanks,
Dave

Whatever you do, do not plug in extra boards with a voltage this high.
First check the transformer voltage and compare to the schematics like setzkor already advised.

#12 8 years ago

Thanks for all the responses.

I measured the voltage from the transformer on pin 3 and 6 directly and it was correct therefore I figure it is something on the rectifier board. I ordered a new one (since I have 4 games that use that board) which will allows me get the game running while I figure out the problem component/s on the original one and fix it. Looking at the schematic, it appears to be one of the 4 diodes, 5-8 however in circuit they test fine. Any ideas what the problem component on the rectifier board could be to cause an over voltage on TP3?

#13 8 years ago

No, I don't see how a voltage can be this high if not coming from the transformer. The AC secondary should be approx 14.2VAC. An unloaded transformer may be a bit higher, but nowhere near 56V.

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from Richard_BoK:

No, I don't see how a voltage can be this high if not coming from the transformer. The AC secondary should be approx 14.2VAC. An unloaded transformer may be a bit higher, but nowhere near 56V.

Just to be clear, when I measured the voltage of pin 3 and 6 on J6 from the transformer, it read about ~14.4 AC as per the schematics. When J6 and J5 are plugged into the rectifier board, TP3 measures ~56v DC. That is why I figure the problem is on the rectifier board.

Thoughts.

#15 8 years ago

Do you have solder splash or a connector miswired so the 12 and 43 volt circuits are combined?

#16 8 years ago

OK...this is getting weird now!

I pulled my known good rectifier board from Flash Gordon and installed it in 8 eight ball deluxe and got the same results. With only J5 and J6 installed, all voltages at rectifier test points are good except TP3 which reads about 56V DC.

What is so weird is that if I measure the voltage on pin 3 and 6 of J6 (from transformer) I get ~15V AC. I have visually inspected for solder splashes on the board and transformer and can not find any. Once the board is installed back in Flash Gordon, it works fine. Can the problem be in all the other components that mount on the plate which the transformer does???

HELP PLEASE!!!

Thanks,
Dave

#17 8 years ago

what type of meter are you using? If input voltages truly are correct, possible you may be getting phantom readings with your DMM. Stick a stout load resistor between TP3 and ground and see if the voltage changes. Got a 27 ohm 5W resistor or so handy?

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

what type of meter are you using? If input voltages truly are correct, possible you may be getting phantom readings with your DMM. Stick a stout load resistor between TP3 and ground and see if the voltage changes. Got a 27 ohm 5W resistor or so handy?

I have a Radio Shack DMM. Not quite sure I understand what you mean about phantom readings. If my DMM is not measuring correctly, wouldn't all the voltages at the other test point be off? Only the voltage at TP3 is off.

#19 8 years ago

Bump

#20 8 years ago

I had this happen on a Silverball Mania last summer. The solenoid driver board had failed. Check your voltages at the test points on yours and see what you get.

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from DnDPins:

I have a Radio Shack DMM. Not quite sure I understand what you mean about phantom readings. If my DMM is not measuring correctly, wouldn't all the voltages at the other test point be off? Only the voltage at TP3 is off.

No, they all wouldn't be off. The other voltages have load resistors, the 12V does not.

The voltage at TP3 is an unregulated, unloaded rectified DC (sortof DC) output.
DMM type meters have what is called 'a high impedance' input. This means the meter does not load down the circuit at all (actually a miniscule load). This can be good... and it can also be bad. An unregulated and unloaded voltage can be all over the place for voltages but the theoretical average will be at roughly 12V. Some DMMs sometimes only see the high voltage excursions and say 'this is the voltage'. If you hang a load resistor between TP3 and ground - this will cut off the spurious high voltage peaks and will rule out whether or not the low impedance of the DMM is to blame.

Hopefully you have been testing this with NO boards attached to the output of this rectifier board. If it truly is 56V through some other fault, this can easily take out your 5V regulator and the logic devices behind it.

#22 8 years ago

G-P-E thanks for all you feedback, you obviously know way more about this than I do.
It seems to me that you are thinking that the readings I am getting on TP3 are possibly false however I have used the same meter on Flash Gordon with J5 and J6 plugged in (as with EBDLE) and it reads ~14 VDC at TP3 as expected. Doesn't that clear any question about the DMM? I do not have the proper resistor at this time or I would try what you suggest.

If we assume that my meter is correct and I am getting ~56VDC at TP3 however the transformer output (measured directly from J6 pin 3 and 6) is ~14VAC and I get the same TP3 (~56 VDC) reading with a known good (other) rectifier board installed in EBD, what could the issue be? At this point, if I assume my meter is measuring correctly the over voltage condition is between the transformer and the rectifier board. According to the Alltek MPU, there is defiantly an over voltage condition somewhere.

FYI...I have not plugged in any other boards (beyond rectifier) since noticing the TP3 voltage.

I am at a loss for next steps.

Thanks,
Dave

#23 8 years ago

Let's see some focused, well lit, photos of the board - front and back

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-properly-ask-for-pinball-repair-help-vids-guide

#24 8 years ago

Do as last post said -- post pix and maybe we can see something.

Try it with only J6 plugged in to see if it is coming from one of those voltages.

I'm telling ya - using a low cost DMM on a completely unloaded rectified circuit can often result in bizarre (phantom) voltages.
Do you have any resistor values you can stick between TP3 and the ground test point for testing?

#25 8 years ago

1982 Bally Eight Ball Deluxe LE
Boards:
Alltek MPU, all other boards original, SDB and Sound Board recapped by previous owner
Condition: Played completely when I picked it up. Everything worked when initially set up (after minor fixed mentioned Below)

Last fixes:
After 2 hour trip home and first few games in my gameroom, a pop bumper and lead for upper left flipper broke. I soldered them and everything worked fine for about another 10games.

Scenario:
Played perfectly for a few days and then while it was on, it got stuck with background sound and only 3 feature lamps and GI on, and when I looked at the Altek MPU, the over voltage indicator was on. Here is what happens during a boot:
1) All boot sequences finish, no over voltage light is on
2) The displays flash for a split second and the coin door lock out coil pulls
3) The game is stuck with the left orbit feature lamps on and background sound. Also, the red test button on the coin door does not work.
4) The over voltage indicator is on (Altek MPU)

What I did next:
1) Unplugged all connectors going out of the rectifier board and tested voltage at all TPs on the rectifier board. All measured as expected except TP3 which measured ~56VDC.
2) Measured voltage at pin 3 and 6 on J6 from the transformer ~14VAC. All other pins also measured the correct incoming AC voltage
3) Took known good rectifier board from Flash Gordon and installed it in EBDLE and connected J5 and J6. TP3 still measured ~56VDC

Also, with just J6 plugged in the voltage at TP3 is ~26VDC. With J5 and J6 it is ~56VDC

Observation prior to issue:
I noticed that the coin door lockout coil would activate prior to the audio attract. The very last thing that happened before the issue began was activation of the coin door lockout coil and then a pause for a few seconds and then just background music and the feature lamps on the left orbit (to top lane) shot.

Pictures:

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#26 8 years ago

What do all the other voltages read when J5 and J6 are connected?
Of course J5 and J6 have to be connected, since they are connected to the transformer.

I'm thinking a short in the wiring of the transformer. Perhaps some secondaries shorted with each other inside the transformer.
What do all the other secondaries measure? And compared to the 14VAC circuit.

And what does the transformer of your other machine read in the EBD?

There's really nothing else where the voltage can come from.
And your DMM reads correct, since the altek MPU failed to boot, and the other voltages are measured correctly.

#27 8 years ago

Voltages directly from transformer:
J5:
pin 1+7 = 7.2 VAC
pin 6+9 = 45.3 VAC
pin 2+3 = 189.3 VAC

J6:
pin 1+5 = 10.4 VAC
pin 3+6 = 15.2 VAC

With J5 and J6 plugged in to rectifier board:
TP1 7.9 VDC
TP2 185.7 VDC
TP3 56.4 VDC
TP4 7.8 VAC
TP5 45.9 VDC

As you can see, the input to the rectifier from the transformer all look good and only TP3 reads high. If the problem was somewhere within the transformer wouldn't multiple voltages read incorrectly directly from the transformer and on the rectifier board?

#28 8 years ago

Beg, borrow or steal an old analog meter (one with needle) and see what you get.

#29 8 years ago

What he ^^^^ said....

Don't get too hung up on measuring unregulated voltages. They can be all over the place.

#30 8 years ago

OK...so I plugged in the SDB and then measure TP3 on the rectifier board and now it measures 15.6 VDC. So then I think perhaps its the SDB...replaced it with a known good and same situation...over voltage on MPU.

WTF!!!

If there was something wrong inside the transformer, I would not be getting the readings I get in post #27 correct?

#31 8 years ago

In plugging in the SDB - you applied a load to an unregulated voltage and your DMM finally gave you a reading you expect. Same thing would have happened if you had just installed a simple load resistor as mentioned above. It was your meter giving you a false reading and putting a load on it put the voltage within range.

There is nothing wrong with the transformer. There is nothing wrong with the rectifier board. Without the CPU board or anything else plugged into the SDB - what voltage does the +5V regulator provide? If it is good - check cable between SDB and CPU -- measure +5V at other end of cable to make sure you don't have a bad cable.

#33 8 years ago

DAMMIT! Hit quote instead of edit to fix a typo!

#34 8 years ago
Quoted from DnDPins:

OK...so I plugged in the SDB and then measure TP3 on the rectifier board and now it measures 15.6 VDC

TP3 voltage is supposed to be 11.9 VDC...is 15.6 VDC too much and still the cause of the problem?

#35 8 years ago

Valid input range of an LM323 type regulator is 7.5 to 20V and valid input range of a 78H05 type regulator is 7.5 to 30V so this isn't a problem.

#36 8 years ago

Thanks much G-P-E.

Well I have narrowed down the issue:
With all cables on the rectifier board and back box except J1 (Playfield) on the rectifier board, the system boots. Once I plug in J1, the same over voltage condition on the MPU exists.

#37 8 years ago

What's the voltage on the MPU?
Perhaps the voltage regulator.

#38 8 years ago

Bump

#39 8 years ago
Quoted from Richard_BoK:

What's the voltage on the MPU?

The voltage at the MPU is exactly as it should be when I do not have the Playfield connector on the rectifier board. When I plug in the playfield connector it goes over voltage and I immediately turn it off so I do not get a reading.

Quoted from Richard_BoK:

Perhaps the voltage regulator.

I do not think it is anything on the boards because I swapped in a know good SDB and it acts the exact same way.

At this point, it seems to be something on the playfield. What should I be searching the playfield for?

Thanks,
Dave

#40 8 years ago

Broken/dangling wire, loose staple, frayed wire, anything that looks out of place.

#41 8 years ago

Could not find anything that looked out of place or broken.

By process of elimination, I found out that with J1 disconnected on the MPU, the machine boots and play minus feature lamps and score displays. Can someone tell me what this narrows down to on the playfield or rectifier?

#42 8 years ago

Lots of things on J1 ... none of them should measure more than 5V. Measure them to see if any have an abnormal voltage on them.

#43 8 years ago

My MrMs Pacman seems to currently have the exact same issue. That is up to the point that you pulled the J1 Playfield connector and it seems to work.

My TP3 (rectifier board) is reading real high too with DVM meter and I cannot get the SDB or SquawkTalk to regulate it to 5v. I put a scope on TP3 and found a nasty looking half rectified waveform where the others looked to be nice clean full rectified waveforms. I have new 6amp 400v retifier diodes on order. Actually I'm upgrading all the rectifiers as per http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm (section 2b).

#44 8 years ago

Half wave rectified - one leg of bridge rectification is bad.

#45 8 years ago

Come to think of it, with the SDB plugged in, tp3 on the rectifier is 15.6vdc. shouldn't it be 5 VDC since it is regulated?

#46 8 years ago

On the rectifier board... NO!
This is the unregulated input to the 5V regulator. The 15.6 is fine. It is fine. It is fine. It is fine. It is fine.
But go ahead and replace it anyways.

#47 8 years ago

On my wiring diagram of EBD, J1 on Mpu goes to A1 (displays), A5 ( lamp driver pcb), A9 (aux lamp driver board)

Maybe try unplugging all displays and see if the 56v stays away with J1 plugged back in?

1 week later
#48 8 years ago

I tested the SDB voltage and the 12VDC TP is getting ~17VDC. Also, TP3 on the sound board is getting ~16.6 VC instead on 11 and 2 and 4 are getting the correct voltage.

With all connectors plugged in, TP3 on the rectifier board is getting 15.6 VDC. Is it possible two voltages are being added?

#49 8 years ago

Solenoid driver board TP5 = rectifier board TP3 with a slight difference in voltage due to loss in cabling.
Sound board TP3 = rectifier board TP3 with slight difference in voltage due to loss in cabling AND minus a slight drop across diode (accounts for the roughly 0.7V difference).
All three voltages are FINE. THEY ARE FINE!
There re no voltages being added. The 12V from your rectifier board is "Unregulated" this means it can vary widely. depending on your house's line voltage, your transformer and specific parts on the rectifier board. Leave them alone. There is no problem with this voltage.

#50 8 years ago

Thanks for all you input G-P-E.

So after 3 weeks I am back where I started from.

With all boards and connectors plugged in the game will play for a little bit and then freeze up with the over voltage situation.

If I leave the game in attract mode, there is no over voltage until the attract mode quote "Quit talking and start chalking" starts and then over voltage. ???

Thanks,
Dave

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