I am finally in the club and wanting to restore the example I have.
I am in need of a pf if anyone has a lead
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I am finally in the club and wanting to restore the example I have.
I am in need of a pf if anyone has a lead
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:PS I am now building and shipping EBD upper and lower harnesses. 81 and 84 editions.
how much?
If anyone wants to pass on their CPR pf, please let me know. i am happy to pay a transfer fee for a gold or silver.
My Gold CPR arrived today (thanks to a friend for passing it along to me!)
Curious is anyone else has spots/speckles in the green of the "felt" Almost looks like a poorly mixed color pull prior to screening.
I ask because I was surprised this made the "gold" level standards. I am stoked to have anything at all, just trying to figure out if this is the currnet standard for gold level or I got one that was missed in the grading process?
thanks for the heads up and good to know this is the expected standard on the run. just happy to have one.
Since I have a CPR version acquired, I now can offer up a nice example with a laminated overlay which I previously acquired that is available if anyone wants it. It originally came from a pro that is well known for his ability to apply these overlays and does a dman fine job of it. I picked it up for $450 and will sell it for the same if anyone is looking.
Quoted from Bohdi:Have any pics of it Hilton? I'd possibly be interested, possibly, just tapped out at the moment
I can grab some photos lated this evening. PM me your email and I will send them to you.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I wish they would have made more plastics sets too!
I sure could use a plastic set!!!
f anyone has a spare, please pass them along.
Quoted from Bohdi:Have any pics of it Hilton? I'd possibly be interested, possibly, just tapped out at the moment
Anyone know if there is a mylar/sticker/decal available for the main worn areas of the playfield?
I am prepping a game for route, so not a full restoration at this time, and would like to have a decal to lay down over the current wear.
Since I am planning on it going on route, it does not need the full treatment of an overlay or pf swap and I would just like to pretty it up a bit.
I get the impression these used to be more readily available, so would appreciate a PM if it cant be said publically where to find them.
I also found that the blue posts had to be ordered from seperat places. I am guessing pinball resource has them both but did not feel like ordering from there this time around. Hoping the two heights have similar dye lots.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Anyone else have this problem? It only happens on an extremely slow moving ball, but it's happened more than once.
This is a new CPR playfield and I've got the drop targets flush with the playfield. I also have the entire mech mounted with the targets as close to the front of the playfield as possible.
Oddly enough, I've got an operator friend's game I've been using as a reference and the same thing happens on his and the drop targets are a tad higher than the playfield on his.
I'm stumped.
Yes, seems like a common issue on original and CPR.
It appears the easy solution is a piece of plexi (or even some cereal box cardboard in a pinch) cut and tacked to the inside bottom of the drop target mech to bring the drop target heads (when down) to be flush with the top of the playfield.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I find it interesting they didn't allow for adjustment like on the other drop target mech.
I have tought about drilling, tapping, and adding a screw and wing nut for adjustment. It would look nicer and work well.
Quoted from vec-tor:Bally, on later revisions of their drop targets, added a metal "L" bracket in order to feel in the space between the drop targets.
Midway/Bally #0390-00100-0000 ; #0390-00100-00XF, BRACKET: FILLER ( 6 REQ'D.)
interesting.
Have any photos or reference on what this looks like? It would be cool to try and replicate.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Yup. I found the thread and went through it all. I'm going to start with the easy stuff like the caps.
Thanks!!
I have found that new caps and if that does not work, then remove/seperate the power lines from the bundle of switch wires seems to do the trick.
I have had it on lots of classic Bally games and even after doing everything, it can still happen on rare occurrences.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I will say, in trying to eliminate it, I installed caps on the flipper EOS switches...the ones found on System 11 games. It didn't solve the problem but sure eliminated the arcing. Is this commonly done on older Bally games? I'm thinking of leaving them on.
That is what Rob A suggested to me.
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