(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 5,673 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by mbeardsley
  • Topic is favorited by 199 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider waderade812.
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#2307 4 years ago

I am having a hard time finding the clip type pop bumper bodies. I have talked to pinball resource. Looked on macro, pinball life, action pinball, and a bunch of others. Is there another source I need to look at? I am puzzled that I cannot find these things anywhere.

4 weeks later
#2351 4 years ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

I had the game in lamp test mode with all lights flashing and was reviewing the manual to find the wire and connector that ran the light that was not working. Was about five feet from the machine when I heard a strange noise and saw lamps were no longer flashing and game had frozen with just GI lights on. Turned the game off and on again and saw that the MPU flashes stopped after four or five. Since I was not near the game, I don’t think I did anything to cause this to happen. I will contact the person I bought the board from. I also have a backup original MPU and I am going to put that in the game this weekend or sooner. If that corrects the startup problem then it seems like that would confirm the new MPU board that I bought was the problem.

Check the +43 volt on the power supply board in the cabinet, I believe you will find fuse F-4 blown a 5 amp fuse. It may be a coil somewhere on the playfield or the coin door. Check your coil resistance on all playfield coils and coin door. I believe you will find a short on one of them. Anything less than 2.5ohms is a bad coil.

3 months later
#2431 4 years ago

This is probably a long shot. But have you checked the tilt mechanisms including the ball in the roller tilt. It just seems that if the game is firing up on the boards but won't start a game at the game start button. It may be tilting right away.

1 month later
#2497 4 years ago
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:

Thanks for the replies, guys! I’ll have to look for a source now to supply me with a load of new bayonet sockets.

When I did my backbox. I replaced the sockets to 44 style. Pinball Resource had the absolute best price, after comparing all the normal websites. 70 cents a socket.

3 weeks later
#2587 4 years ago

I'm wrapping up my EBD restore. And the game is now playing. The issue I need help with is the 7 bank reset.

What is happening is I cannot get the full bank of drops to reset. The two big coils fire but they aren't powerful enough to lock the targets up.

Although when I unhook the individual target drop coils on the bank. I do have the power to reset the full bank. Has anyone else had this issue of not enough uummff? To reset the targets?

#2588 4 years ago

Ok problem solved. After isolating individual coils on the 7 drop bank, it turned up no results. I moved down the return line and ended up disconnecting the trough coil. The 7 bank reset, no problem. Tested the coil on the bench and BAM bad diode. Apparently the game didn't care because it was putting a ball into the shooter lane no problem. So the diode was just weak enough to allow that coil to work but pull power off of the bank reset. By way of the 1,9 drop target coil. What a chase.

Thanks @treborlicec for the help.

4 months later
#3128 3 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

Quick color question to the community... Is there a commercially available paint which is more or less matching the cream/custard color of the 81 cabinet ?

I used Gloss Ivory from Rust-Oleum.

1 month later
#3268 3 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Ya, I don't think that's possible with the original Bally code. While replay is kinda pointless at home, I leave mine on for several reasons (all nostalgic):
- I love the knocker sound. Sends me back immediately to the early 80's as a teenager in the arcade. Getting a three-knocker for making D-E-L-U-X-E or getting the high score is especially satisfying.
- I don't like the novelty scoring or the multitude of extra balls (just the left orbit) because the scoring gets high enough for me that I roll it past 9,999,990. I have mine set to 5 balls, just like the one I played at the arcade so the scores then and now are "consistent" for me. Plus my family prefers 5-ball (I begrudgingly put our BKSOR and STPRO on 5-ball via family democratic vote). They let me keep the original Black Knight and STTNG on 3-ball because they don't play those two very much (and when I played them in the arcades in my youth, those were always set to 3-ball).
- I like to play a "game within a game". I'll start off with 5 credits and try to run it up to the max 40 credits before losing them all down to 0 credits. It makes for a fun challenge for me, I get to hear my knocker, and my family is happy with 5 balls per game. The only annoying thing is running up the credits to 20-something and after my family plays, it's back down to 10 credits and I've got to build it up again.

I really only chase DELUXE letters. Can't beat the satisfaction of capturing one of those. The family gets into it every now and then. Here was Easter this year. Brought it out in the porch.

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2 weeks later
#3317 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

I meant the wooden boards that border the playfield. Sorry for the confusion..

I miss read that to. My originals are black with a sheen on a 81 version.

2 months later
#3496 3 years ago

Here is the cue ball look.

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#3497 3 years ago

Double post

#3518 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

How does everyone keep their pop bumper caps on? The little plastic tabs on mine are constantly breaking (another one broke over the weekend).
I now have a big stack of broken caps that I have accumulated over the years (and new caps are getting more and more expensive to buy).
I've tried the hot glue thing, but it eventually comes loose (and looks ugly too). Some of the caps I have have screw holes in them, but there are no places in the actual bumper below for the screws to go into - so I'm not sure what the point there is.
Has anyone tried to produce a replacement cap with a beefier tab? Even a generic orange one that didn't break would be better than more broken EBD ones.

I have been lucky super gluing them back on with the gel type glue. Not ideal but it does hold up well in my game.

1 year later
#4424 2 years ago

The first thing I would check is if the wiring at the coil was the issue. Partially broken wire is my first idea. Did they change anything with the upper flipper mech for any reason?

#4426 2 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Wouldn't that make it work intermittently? The problem is it is consistently weak, not inconsistently working.
I don't know everything they did, but it was a lot of work. They had to bring it back from the dead, including replacing the MPU board and the lamp driver board. It's likely that they "cleaned" the flippers, but I don't know specifically all that they did.
The work was done in LA, but my brother lives in Bakersfield. They have said that they will look at it "the next time they are up there", but it would likely be a couple of months. I'm hoping that I can help him get the issue fixed before that (or at least identify the actual problem).

Well I was under the impression it was a working machine before the shop job. Didn't realize is was a back from the dead job. I've had a weak to unresponsive coil when the power supply wire was frayed and it had 4 strands still attached.

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