(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 5,666 posts
  • 422 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by pindel
  • Topic is favorited by 198 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_9355 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9354 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9353 (resized).jpeg
Screen Shot 2024-03-25 at 8.23.55 PM (resized).png
IMG_1419 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2253 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2241 (resized).jpeg
20240322_172414 (resized).jpg
EBD (resized).jpg
IMG_2238 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2239 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8271 (resized).JPG
IMG_8132 (resized).JPG
IMG_2225 (resized).jpeg
EBD_SwitchMatrix_error3.png
EBD_SwitchMatrix_error2.png

Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rc_like_the_cola.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#2517 4 years ago
Quoted from firefighter:

My EBD had been restored 10+ years ago by someone before me and looks like they took a belt sander to it with all the deep groove on the playfield. It did have a overlay and a playfield protector on top of that. I was really worried about the overlay coming off but it all peeled off in one piece. Needless to say that the overlay will not become a wall hanging. Sanding the playfield inserts was the biggest job but I got smoothed out and polished. She plays so much better and looks amazing.

How was the hardtop install? I'm scared to death of messing up that hole you have to route out for the star rollover whenever I end up doing one.

#2530 4 years ago
Quoted from firefighter:

The hole is already made and you need to take a Dremel tool and slowly grind out the Hardtop hole till it flush with the wood. Hardtop made a video on how to do this also. Its really easy if you take your time. I started the Hardtop project on a Sunday afternoon and by Thursday night it was up and running.

Thanks. I didn't see any hardtop install videos that deal with the star rollover situation. I'm just worried about screwing it up. Dremel by hand can easily go wrong.

#2535 4 years ago
Quoted from firefighter:

Go to outsideedgeproducts.com and look under Hardtop FAQ and there it will show you how to clean out the rollover hole.

Ah thank you. Found it. I was looking under the video section on the site and on YouTube.

#2537 4 years ago

Couple quick observations on the EBDLE I recently picked up. This game has a standard Bally coindoor decal (some have the Bally/Midway) and it has the cream and gold apron (most I've seen have the black and red Bally apron). I'm guessing this could be from using up stock of the old aprons. I suppose it could have been from a pf swap where an owner of an EBD 81 wanted a nicer playfield, but why not swap aprons. This one also has full sockets underneath, no lamp boards, like later ones.

I am in need of 2 plastics, if anyone can help. I need a the plastic that covers the 8 ball target and one of the inlane plastics is broken. Also, one of the horseshoe targets was replaced with a red generic one, so I could use a used original if anyone has one of those also. I think that's all from my initial once over.

Thanks,
RC

#2539 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

RC. The bally midway coin sticker was used on the 84 version ebd. The LE was still only Bally.
You could be right about the apron. Especially if it's an early one. Check serial number. Bally found ways to save money. The LE was born because they needed a way to use up those weird cabs that were originally designed for Rapid Fire and was a huge flop. So Centaur 2 and Mr. and Mrs. Pacman were also born.
The lamp socket thing is unknown weather original or not. Your assumption seems right that it probably was swapped from an original ebd. If you have the original LE manual compare wire colors on the schematic. I'm pretty sure the colors were slightly different from 81 ebd to Le. If the pf was swapped whoever did it had a ton of modifications to do on the wiring harness due to the weird configuration of the board layout and design not to mention converting the lamp sockets to wired individually. See if you can find a year stamped on the edge of the pf.
I probably have some used horseshoe targets.

I'll double check for that date. Regarding the coin door decal, I was going by the IPDB owner submitted pics. Flyer shows Bally decal, owner pics show Bally/Midway. Just figured they changed part way through production. No biggie to me. Just happy to have the game.

#2541 4 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I'm buying a new set of plastics since I have a couple that are broken; I might have some useable extras. I'll check and get back with you.

Excellent, I appreciate it.

#2544 4 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

I'll double check for that date. Regarding the coin door decal, I was going by the IPDB owner submitted pics. Flyer shows Bally decal, owner pics show Bally/Midway. Just figured they changed part way through production. No biggie to me. Just happy to have the game.

Date code on the pf is March 1981, so it was a swap. Dammit, who stole my playfield, lol?

#2549 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

What's the serial number of your LE?

Shows E8B1718

#2550 4 years ago

GI sockets seem to be white also.

#2552 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

GI sockets white and switched lamps green or all of then white?

White for gi and a mixture of white and green for controlled lamps.

IMG_20200216_001253471 (resized).jpgIMG_20200216_001253471 (resized).jpg
#2554 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Hmm, maybe yours was in the transition phase from white to green sockets. Do you have a single fuse or triple fuse block under the PF?

There is a single fuse near the right flipper mech.

#2560 4 years ago

Could the pcbs be re-engineered by the folks over at https://pinballreplacementparts.com?

I used their pcbs for my Meteor and love them.

EDIT: I shot them a message asking if they would be interested in reproducing the lamp boards.

#2569 4 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Could the pcbs be re-engineered by the folks over at https://pinballreplacementparts.com?
I used their pcbs for my Meteor and love them.
EDIT: I shot them a message asking if they would be interested in reproducing the lamp boards.

Heard back from the folks at pinballreplacementparts.com and they have advised that they have had enough interest in these EBD lamp pcbs that they classified the project as "very possible". They indicated they have access to a set of boards for exact measurements. Fingers crossed.

2 weeks later
#2591 4 years ago

Fellow EBD owners and lovers, I am in need of some plastics for my game. I'm sure some of you fine folks have purchased new sets and may have what I need leftover. I need the right inlane plastic, the left plastic that covers the bonus x drops and the clear plastic guide that runs under it, also the right plastic that covers the 8 ball drop and the clear plastic guide that runs under it. I also need a single horseshoe target in case if anyone has one of those.

Thanks in advance.

RC

4 weeks later
#2717 3 years ago

Anyone have a set of the lamp boards for the inserts under the playfield? Long shot, but figured I'd check here.

Thanks,
RC

#2718 3 years ago

Could also use a slingshot bracket. One of mine is broken. I can get by with a washer fix but would like to have an undamaged one.

IMG_20200402_115706376 (resized).jpgIMG_20200402_115706376 (resized).jpg
#2723 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Cleaning up the flipper mechs prior to transplant. The shaft ends (where the pawl set screw bites) are pretty gnarly. Is this acceptable? Prior to pulling the pf, the flips were working fine (without any obvious slop). If a replacement is in order, who has EBD flippers? Tnx![quoted image][quoted image]

If you put them back in the same position on the pawl, all will be fine. When they look like that and you want to adjust the flipper angle, they will slip back into the dug in grooves over time. If you were ok with the flipper position before, you'll likely be fine. I'd still run something around them to smooth some of the jaggedness out.

#2724 3 years ago

Lots of progress on my EBDLE today. Harness was washed. Lost some labels and some got smeared. Cleaned and waxed the new to me playfield. Harness transplant starts tomorrow.

IMG_20200402_164010173 (resized).jpgIMG_20200402_164010173 (resized).jpgIMG_20200402_214556165 (resized).jpgIMG_20200402_214556165 (resized).jpg
#2726 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Tnx guys. Nice work on the ongoing swap. I've been contemplating washing down the harness but was concerned about just that possible outcome (lost labels). Would you do it again?

Depends on the game and other variables. I have to do it with my Star Trek soon also. Playfield is trash. I'll use a better labeling system next time for sure. Luckily, ST is a simpler game with less mechs.

#2728 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I tried the dishwasher on one my my harnesses. I remember the switch contacts turned black. Now I wash them by hand. I put all of the coils in baggies and tape them closed. I also zip tie all of the switch stacks so they stay together. I lay the harness on a flat surface and spray it with a degreaser. I have tried all kinds of cleaners from Simple Green to Bleech Wite. They all will clean the wires but never erase 40 years of age. Sometimes cleaning too aggressive will tend to remove the secondary colors of the wiring so beware. Once harness is layed out, I spray the cleaner and let it work for a while and then scrub it with a small scrub brush. I rinse with a squirt bottle filled with hot water. Hang to dry for several days. Swapping out all of the small white zip ties also helps the harness look newer.

Next time I'll have a better plan. I'm gonna write down wire colors of lamps that got clipped, etc on top of the labeling in case of a lost label, etc. I may be asking the group for help later as I try to put things where they go

#2730 3 years ago

Right now I'm attaching the major mechs and coils. The harness should follow its natural routing after that and hopefully I won't have too many looming questions.

#2742 3 years ago

Still working through this playfield swap. Is the star rollover lamp part of the GI? I believe it is, but want to double check with you guys. I think this wire goes to that socket but it was tied off on my original playfield.

IMG_20200405_185643728 (resized).jpgIMG_20200405_185643728 (resized).jpgIMG_20200405_185651603 (resized).jpgIMG_20200405_185651603 (resized).jpg
#2753 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Good point about the wood threaded mini post. Yes they can get beat up and bend causing the hole threads to loosen up. Good idea changing to the machine thread type. If the DT bank is in the way can I counter bore a hole under the pf and place a washer and a nut in there flush? It sounds like a lot of work and a little risky though.

On my game, that post was broken off and the threaded part still in the playfield. I was thinking of doing a tnut and machined post, but saw the drop target bank mount was in the way. I may countersink a tnut and then use a machined screw and plastic post/rubber.

#2758 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The "T" nut technique works the best. It is solid once done.
The "T" nut profile is flatter than a regular nut; you don't lose a lot of wood material.

Since my playfield is on the rotisserie I went ahead and did this mod/upgrade real quick. Literally a few minutes with the playfield fully accessible. Snapped a couple pics in case it's helpful to others.

IMG_20200406_131435291 (resized).jpgIMG_20200406_131435291 (resized).jpgIMG_20200406_131820911 (resized).jpgIMG_20200406_131820911 (resized).jpg
#2761 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I would make sure you are using a #10-32 threaded minipost...
#6-32 threaded minipost is to weak to handle the pounding
from the ball.

I did use a 6-32, but I'm going with this approach. Makes the shot tougher and should hold up.

IMG_20200406_133631794 (resized).jpgIMG_20200406_133631794 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2857 3 years ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Dialing in EBD81 restoration.
Right in lane ball bounces off flipper rubber, very little adjustment.
Any solution?
Are cliffy’s ball guides wider to prevent ball hop?

Inlanes should be plastic on bottom, metal on top. You have it the other way around?

#2876 3 years ago

Question for those that have used the Seigecraft and similar LED flicker eliminator kits on this game. I believe I've seen/read that the standard kit of 3 little pcbs will work and no need to get the extras for the aux LDB. Can anyone confirm?

Thanks, in advance.

#2881 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The lamps that are worst affected by flickering are those that are first refreshed during the zero crossing interrupt routine. This happens because the feature lamp voltage is still low during it's DC phase and rising. The SCRs for those lamps have trouble latching on because not enough current is drawn through LEDs due to the low voltage at that time.
On Eight Ball Deluxe the early refreshed lamps are those in the centre rack and the worst sufferers being the lowest numbered ball lamps in the rack.
The lamps on the Auxilliary lamp driver board are refreshed after the main lamp driver board. By the time the Aux lamp driver board is handled, the feature lamp voltage will have risen to the point that the SCRs should latch normally.
The type of LEDs you use will also make a difference, higher current drawing LEDs (SMD type) will suffer less from flickering issues.
You will probably find the anti-flicker boards for the aux lamp driver board are not needed.

Thanks for the excellent summary. I use 2smd from Comet, so sounds like I'll be good with the regular kit and may have to add a couple resistors in the lower rack area. All good with that.

#2886 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

The comet LED adapter boards are $75. Seems like...a lot.

That's if you order the specific kit for EBD. I've seen people using the standard 3 piece kit and not getting the other 2 for the aux LDB with no issue. I'm gonna go with the $45 standard kit and see how it looks.

#2888 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I assume that's what I bought for my meteor (which likely needs board work anyway--LEDs still flicker) so I guess I'll pull those out and ship to my friend to go with EBD, so he can give them a try.

Yes. Most games work with the standard 3 piece kit. And Meteor is a special case. You may need LDB work, but you will likely still need to add a few resistors to problem lamps after that also. I added 8 or 9 resistors to lamps that still flickered after the 3 piece kit and all LDB work was done.

#2896 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Thanks Quench for the explanation. The strobing is not severe enough to be distracting. However I may experiment a bit and try incandescents back in there. I do miss the glow. Or maybe some clear retro LEDs to see if the effect is less noticeable than the frosted.

I'd give the cap thing a try. Quench, what value cap would fix the issue or improve it? My playfield hasn't made it back into the cab yet, so I'm eager to do as much as I can before then.

3 weeks later
#2960 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

What do we use as a filler when playfield holes are blown out?
Better to go ahead and fill it before laying down the hardtop.
[quoted image]

Personally, I'd drill that one through and use a tnut and machined post in it's place. The reason it is all mangled is they factory used a wood screw post and that one gets hit alot. Gotta remove the drop bank below to do the mod.

1 week later
#3052 3 years ago

Having some issues after my playfield swap. Initially, I wasn't getting controlled playfield lamps or solenoids. I found a loose wire in J3 on the SDB. Fixed that and then accidentally put the connector on incorrectly. It had been replaced in the past and it was in 2 pieces, not a full 25 pin housing. I misaligned the lower portion and pins 12 and 13 kinda melted. Fixed that and it seemed to work fine. Got solenoids and insert lights back. Then I installed the Bally LED flicker eliminator boards from Comet and since then they don't work. Without the flicker boards, I get no controlled lamps on the playfield and the light that belongs to the SEB doesn't light either (it is incandescent). With the anti flicker boards installed a few lamps are always lit but they still don't function properly. I'm not sure what happened or what I may have done wrong. Verified the lamp bus wire is making continuity from the rectifier all the way to the shoot again light. Any tips on where to start?

#3055 3 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

It may be a longshot in your case, but I've had some quality control issues on the Bally anti-flicker boards myself. Nothing I couldn't fix, but it took time to figure out the problems were with the anti-flicker boards themselves vs. issues with my lamp board/wiring.
On one set of boards, I had one that had incomplete solder on one of the header pins (picture below). That was causing one of my control lamps to never light.
On another set of boards, I had another incomplete solder example on two of the header pins resulting in two control lamps never lighting.
Using a third set of boards one time, and I had a series of control lamps continue to flicker as if the anti-flicker boards weren't installed. Some lights worked great, but a group didn't. Traced that group of lights....they all went back to anti-flicker board #3, the last in the chain for power. The jumper wire provided with the anti-flicker PCBs had a busted pin in the 2-pin connector. Re-crimped on a new pin, worked like a champ.
In hindsight now that I'm thinking about it, I've bought and used three different sets of the Bally anti-flicker kits and all three had issues that I had to rework! Still a good, inexpensive product that I'd use again, despite the quality issues I've encountered.[quoted image]

I'll check them out, but without them installed, I get zero controlled lamps and I believe that is the issue I need to fix.

#3057 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Did you verify the voltage on the switched supply? Check all fuses with meter not visually.

All fuses check out fine. Not sure where to get a good reading on the voltage. I have an auto ranging meter.

#3059 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Test points on rectifier board. The trace wire that is soldered to all of the socket mounting brackets is the hot side of the circuit. You can measure between that trace wire and the cabinet ground braid or test point grounds on the boards.

Tested using the cab ground braid and the GND point on the rectifier and both ways, I'm getting between 1.8 and 2.5 vdc jumping around. I know that's not sufficient to get the lamps going.

#3061 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Start with the rectifier board. Unplug J1 thru J4. Measure all test points. Values are on pinwiki.com
The j3 connector at solenoid driver has connections to that board and you probably sent voltages to critical areas and fried something. maybe the lamp driver or a rectifier bridge?
If rectifier board passes for to the solenoid driver test points and so on. Don't forget to plus J1 thru 4 back in. Power down before undoing or reconnecting anything.

Thanks for the starting point. Found that BR1 was shorted. Replaced that and controlled lamps are back.

2 weeks later
#3073 3 years ago

My EBDLE refurb is almost finished. I need a few pieces if anyone has these leftover after a restore. I prefer used stuff since I know alot of collectors buy all new stuff and generally have things laying around they don't need. Could use the following:

1 orange pop ring
1 pop cap (the 2 that I have do have the screw holes so it doesn't need to have it's little tabs)
2 blue lane guides
Right inlane clear plastic (could also use a left side and flip it over)
1 metal bell spacer (smaller one)
The large upper right plastic that covers the 8 ball drop target and the weird curved clear plastic under it. I could also use the other clear ones if anyone has unbroken ones, but they seem rare.

PM me if you can help me finish this baby out. Thanks.

RC

#3081 3 years ago
Quoted from izzy:

Working on a PF swap for a friend. He sent along his (what I know) IPB repro playfield. It doesn't have any of the holes drilled or marked, other than the large major holes. No post holes. On the back it's the same, no mounting holes marked.
Right now my plan is to sand the back of the original playfield and clamp it on top of the new playfield with a layer of heavy paper in between and drill the holes that way. On the back I'll probably trace the back of the old PF and mark the mounting holes.
If anyone has a better solution I'm open to hearing it.
It was a shock to me when I went to install the T nuts after taking it out of it's box and realized nothing was drilled.

I believe HEP does the drill through method on both sides. I'd mark the backside of the old PF with a paint pen on the original underside holes, that way when you drill the underside you don't use any of the topside drill through holes. Hopefully that makes sense.

1 month later
#3153 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm having a bit of a problem. I swapped Comet LEDs into my game. Added resistors to the twist sockets, but the rest of them seem to be ok. No resistors on the GI but those are LED also. Now, I'm having problems with 3 solenoids. The outhole kicker, the saucer kicker, and the 4 bank reset. Running through solenoid test, when the game calls for these 3 solenoids, they fire different solenoids instead. I checked underneath the PF, and cant see any obvious shorts. It was playing fine before the LED swap. Any thoughts?
It has an alltek solenoid driver board.

You didn't happen to put a LED in the socket near the solenoid expander board under the playfield did you? That will mess things up. It has to be an incandescent bulb.

#3173 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Uhhhhh yeah....
[quoted image]

Time for a jumper wire

#3177 3 years ago

Almost ready to call my EBDLE refurb done. The mpu is original and came with a memory cap. It has been losing the settings upon power down, but the sounds remained fine, meaning when I powered up, it had background music and all that (setting 18 at 03). I vacuumed the cabinet out and powered on again and it gave me a ding when crediting up, so that sounded weird. Setting 18 was reverted to 0. Figured I needed to put in a lithium cell anyway, so I pulled the mpu and added a lithium cell with blocking diode. Battery measures 3.2v out of the holder. 2.9v when measuring through the diode. Put the mpu back in the game, set 18 to 03. Play a game, all is well. Power down. Let it set a minute and power back up. 18 is at 0 again. I just put the same battery/holder/diode in my City Slicker and all is fine. Thinking that means the 5101 is bad. This original mpu is immaculate. No battery corrosion at all, btw.

EDIT: Pulled and reseated the 5101 and things are working fine now. Changed settings. Played a few games and powered down and back up several times and it is retaining all the info. Likely need a new socket for the ram.

1 week later
#3193 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The next time someone plays, let me know what types of points you're getting. I thought that pops and slings would score in the hundreds, but maybe not. I haven't played this game enough to know exactly what scores what. I'll have to double check mine again, I just found it odd.

Slings are definitely 10 points. They have to have 10 point switches or else the match number would never work since it looks at the last 2 score positions 00-90.

#3196 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

No, they score 500
Check it out.
I thought they were 30 as well..... although I did try it in pinmame not in the machine itself. I think the rubber switches at the top score 30, giving you the match randomness... that's also probably why you see so many scores of 500/1000, people don't really shoot on purpose into that area.
Now, go play Space Invaders - where's the 10 points switch? There is none.... 00/50 only (although there is a hacked rom to change some of the 50 scoring to 10)

I remember learning that on a youtube video about SI. Man, now I gotta go play a game by hand tonight on EBD lol. Learn something new all the time.

3 weeks later
#3276 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Thanks a ton!
Now to figure out how to adapt this thing...

Somewhere deep in the HEP thread, Chris put different pop bodies and caps on a Centaur (which uses the same modular bases) and there is a bit of a how to. Search in there.

#3284 3 years ago
Quoted from WizWiggy:

Looking for advice with a couple of display problems.
#1: The "Ball in Play" display will pulsate in a left to right wave type pattern. This will eventually occur every time the game is played.
#2: A couple segments on the last digit of a score display will intermittingly go out. The majority of the time it's fine, but it's only a matter of time until it occurs.
Thanks!

First thing is to reflow the headers. Then, I would replace the digit resistors with half watt. Factory is quarter watt. That fixes alot of the issues. Then see where you are. I can't recall the resistor locations right now, but google bally pinball display repair and you will see the ones I'm referring to.

#3287 3 years ago
Quoted from WizWiggy:

I forgot to mention this problem:
What would be the first thing to check when all the GI slightly flickers when you press the flipper button(s).
Thanks again!

Check that the machine says Bally on it, then know that it is normal.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 150.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 10.00
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
Decorations
$ 33.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 2.99
From: $ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
Electronics
$ 15.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
Hardware
$ 12.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 10.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Forest City, PA
$ 45.00
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
Decorations
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
Electronics
$ 5.00
Hardware
Volcano Pinball
Hardware
$ 33.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 170.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: £ 135.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
Electronics
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
Boards
$ 55.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 10.00
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
Cabinet parts
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 170.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
Cabinet parts

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rc_like_the_cola.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well?tu=rc_like_the_cola and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.