(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 5,673 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by mbeardsley
  • Topic is favorited by 199 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3918 3 years ago

Finally replaced my defective hardtop while Pinside was down. What a complete mess getting all the adhesive off but it’s much better now, both in looks and the way it plays.

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#3922 3 years ago

I think I’m more proud of my 8-ball colored third flipper choice

But if it makes you feel any better @ksuwildcatfan, I went to play this stupid thing today and the hardtop was lifting up again between the pops and the main drop target bank. Put a bunch of weights on it and gonna let it sit for a week to hopefully get it to bond. Fortunately none of the art lifted this time, though.

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#3923 3 years ago

I also did the flipper “downgrade” work. Looks pretty hacky when you’re looking under the playfield but they flip great!

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1 month later
#4159 2 years ago

Upper flipper on mine stopped holding. Any ideas what to look at? EOS switches all seem to be gapped correctly.

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#4162 2 years ago

Hours of reflowing solder, swapping out coils, making/installing a new cabinet switch (needed to be done anyway), turned out this stupid switch needed to be closed 1/16”

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1 month later
#4204 2 years ago

Shawn at Third Coast posted a couple months ago that his supply ran dry. I haven’t seen (or asked) if he’s found a new supply yet or not.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-wire-and-harnesses/page/3#post-6222780

1 month later
#4227 2 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

I’m not sure that’s the right one. There are two very similar looking sockets but the E 120-162 must be used for coin doors because of how it’s insulated. The other type will short if used on a coin door. Been there done that.
I would email Pinball Life and ask them since they don’t list the Bally equivalent part number. Or email Jimmy at Pinball Resource.

I swear I just had this conversation in another thread but I can't find it. Here's a photo of one I ordered, if it's helpful to see the insulating pads. I'm sure PBL would be happy to field the question again too.

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2 years later
#5370 7 months ago

What are the odds. I was just about to post about the 4-bank drop bank resetting when my "2" Ball drop target drops in test. I'll have to take a look at the same sitch!

2 weeks later
#5394 6 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

You are confusing three terminal coil required here with flipper coils which are totally different..
Flipper coils have two windings and a back EMF blocking diode on each winding.
This game uses a solenoid expander to "bank" between two coils on a single drive signal. The coil must have three terminals with two diodes and one winding only. The extra diode is used as a current blocker to prevent multiple coils activating from a single drive signal.
Below where there are two diodes shown at the outhole kicker coil, both of those diodes are on the actual coil.
[quoted image]

So I checked my outhole coil and it checks good. I went ahead and replaced the diodes anyways and I’m still getting this:

So do I check the diodes on all these coils now? The #1 ball also fires the ball trough, #2 also fires the in-line reset, but the ball trough and the in-line reset can fire independently when it is their turn in the cycle.

#5396 6 months ago

Hm, this game had a replacement Big Daddy solenoid expander installed when I got it. I left the incandescent bulb in that spot under the playfield but I'll run through a test with the playfield up and see what it does. Also how did you spot that upper saucer in that vid, wow! You're the man, Quench!

#5398 6 months ago

Well I think I may have found my culprit and it has likely been a problem for over 40 years on this game…

The brown/orange wire is on the wrong slot, isn’t it? Shouldn’t it be one to the left?

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#5400 6 months ago

Crimped on a new connector and bingo bango! Fixed!

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2 weeks later
#5405 6 months ago

This was not “obvious”. Obvious is something you glance at and go “ah I see it”. This one took diagnosing a problem (thanks again @quench), deeper review of the schematic, checking photos of other connectors to make sure I was reading the schematic correctly (not my forte), counting pin numbers, and THEN I got to say “ah I see it”.

I have repinned thousands of connections at this point. I agree it’s a worthwhile endeavor most of the time and I DO repin most games that pass through my hands. To Quench’s point, I don’t necessarily sit there and double check the schematics for the pin locations when I repin (unless the connector is damaged or looks tampered with). Especially on Bally’s where it’s pretty obvious if it’s an original connector or not. I snip the wire, crimp the connector, and insert into the new housing in the same location.

On this one, the pins were holding very firm, visually very clean, good continuity from pin to wire end via multimeter check, and on a board that is rarely unplugged. It’s the unplugging and plugging that raises the need to repin… or general corrosion, filth, etc, which wasn’t present on this game. I’m confident it would not have been necessary to repin this specific connector if someone hadn’t shown up drunk in 1982.

1 week later
#5411 5 months ago

I thought I’d buttoned this one up and then the 1/9 auto-drop coil started locking on. Didn’t have my multimeter handy but the transistor on board doesn’t look fried. Preemptively pulled the drop bank to test the diode before I go get my DMM and noticed it also has a zenner diode because of the solenoid aux board. I don’t have any of those on hand and it looks like a tight fit for me to cut and test. What is my most likely culprit in that coil locking on? Diode or transistor?

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#5413 5 months ago

Ah, one day I'll maybe understand all this stuff. Thanks!

#5418 5 months ago

It is locking on as soon as I power up the game. I tested the diodes this morning (both good) but got pulled away for my rEaL jOb before I could test the transistor. The board looks nice and clean, and it’s been updated with Vid’s recommendations.

#5421 5 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

It is locking on as soon as I power up the game. I tested the diodes this morning (both good) but got pulled away for my rEaL jOb before I could test the transistor. The board looks nice and clean, and it’s been updated with Vid’s recommendations.

Short in the lower leg of the transistor on the board. Swapped out Q13 and it works!

1 week later
#5424 5 months ago

Edit: nevermind I’m a dummy

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