Hello Fellow EBD fans. I need your advice and opinions please

I have been thrilled to be the owner of EBD "classic" #02416 for over 25 years.

Around 2006, I bought this Illinois Pinball reproduction playfield. I have very little PF changeover experience. I have extensive experience in PCB repair, as well as shopping out and repairing SS pinball.

I was considering doing this changeover. The original playfield is actually pretty good, factory mylar removed circa 1999, minor touchups, and HUO since then.

I just noticed that the IPB PF has almost NO drilling, and no dimpling. How much does this matter? After all, my current original 1984 playfield is the one with the lamp boards.

Any thoughts on the IPB repro PF? Someone wants to swap me for a modern CPR GOLD, and I was considering it in that the CPR is dimpled and drilled. Any Thoughts? Who would you suggest to do this changeover to the IPB PF if I chicken out? Thanks, mk

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Please help, I have questions about my Illinois Pinball Eight Ball Deluxe playfield. I bought this in 2006 from IPB. Does anyone know what finish IPB put on this? Mine seems to be cleared.

Gatecrasher, please feel free to chime in on this as well as anybody else familiar with the IPB EBD playfields.

Were some of these NOT clear coated? I have seen references to ones previously listed that said they had no clearcoat. Is mine unusual to have been factory clear coated?

The clear on my playfield seems pretty nice. I'm wondering if it should get cleared again or more clear applied before I have Dmacy do my EBD changeover?

Opinions please. Thanks, mk

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Please help if you can with EBD controlled lamps. My EBD is a 1984 with the lamp boards. The attached picture shows the non-working lamps. This is when the machine was in lamp test, and the lit lamps are the working lamps. The non-working lamps are about every controlled lamp in the middle of the PF. This problem started over the past few days.

I am running an Altek ultimate lamp driver and a Bally Aux Lamp driver. The aux lamp driver has the siegecraft adapter, and the PF is all LED's, except for incandescent bulbs on the solenoid expander relay and backbox lighting.

I have no blown fuses, and I've checked for loose connections all over. The non-working controlled lamps are getting 2.5 v on the bus. the working lamps are getting 7v on the bus.

I have tried using another working lamp driver, problem is still there. I am planning on trying another working Aux lamp driver just to see what happens.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance, mk

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Thanks for the response.

I will check the bus line for a bad connection or break. The bus line in the area is reading 2.5v, where the controlled lamp bus to the working controlled lamps reads 7.1 v. I would figure a break in the bus line would cause it to read 0 v, correct?

Many Thanks Lovef2k! After a very close inspection I discovered that the controlled lamp buss line (black/white 85) for the non-working controlled lamp section was coming out of the pin (8) on the J1 connector.

I also discovered an error in the schematics:

The cabinet wiring diagram shows the J1 playfield connector has pin 8 as not used. This is where the black/white wire goes for the controlled lamp bus. My schematics are supposed to be for the 1984 EBD; this is the machine I have.

The schematic for the power supply board is correct and it correctly labels pins 8 (B/W) and 5 (Blue) as part of the controlled lamp buss.
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Just a heads up for those installing caps to flipper EOS switches. MAKE SURE you insulate the leads! The picture attached looks like a problem waiting to happen.

I just dealt with a reset problem where I was getting resets associated with flipper activity. I'm guessing bad coil diode, or possibly bad BR2 on the power supply board, or ??

I used heat shrink to insulate the leads, but I had gaps at the lead ends near the solder joints. I was curious what was going on under the pf when the resets would happen. I pushed video on my phone and set it in the coin box. You could see the arc from the capacitor jump from the cap back to the coil, and then to whatever metal / wiring it felt like hitting. It looked like lightning! One arc was strong enough to trip the 43v protection on my Altek USD board. There were no blown fuses.

I used electrical tape to insulate the caps better and cover the gaps. No more resets.

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Please help if you can.

I just discovered that when the trip coil for #2 & #10 drop target fires in my EBD, it will also fire the trip coil for #1 & #9 drop target. I notice this in self-test. It is especially annoying in a multiplayer game as it will spot the #1 or #9 for somebody (unearned) when the DT memory is setting up the targets for their next ball.

I have checked wiring and can see no apparent issues. I was going to replace the (2) coil diodes on each of these coils (#1-9 and #2-10) next, but I'm not sure what else this could be. I am running an Altek ultimate solenoid driver and an original -35 mpu. I was going to try my spare Altek mpu to see if this is an mpu issue. What else should I check? Thanks in advance, mk

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Thanks Quench. I'll check it out and report back.

Thanks very much, Quench! This coil must have been replaced long ago with this AN-26-1200, missing the 3rd terminal and 2nd diode. I'll post again once I get the new AT-26-1200 installed. -mk

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Can anyone tell me if there has ever been a repro backglass for the 1984 Eight Ball Deluxe?

Does any place have this available? Mine is pretty good, but I was thinking it would be nice to have a new one.

Thanks in advance, mk

I saw you spent $350. Was this for a new backglass, or did they restore your old one? Can you please describe what they made? I saw that you said the new glass needs to be used with LED's.

I think I want to get a plan going for 1984 owners to get replacement backglass. See the next post. I want to see if there are enough 1984 EBD owners to make this happen.

Please PM me if you are interested in being on a list for a reproduction 1984 EBD backglass.

Also let me know what you are looking to spend. Personally, I would pay $400 to $500 +/- for a nice repro that has similar or better quality than the new original 1984 glasses.

I will post the results back here.

I'm thinking Shay's might do this if we have enough people. They do nice repro glasses of the 1981 and LE versions.

Thanks to Mathazar for the picture!

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Where would you put 2nd the diode if you are using a coil with one diode and 2 terminals? How would you wire the coil?

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Eight Ball Deluxe used and worn playfield 1984 $175 Featured Archived

Used, fair condition - “Used and worn playfield from my serial # 650 1984 EBD. This playfield has mylar and was touched up over 20 years ago. Some of the touchup is under the mylar. This was my old playf...”

2023-11-27

Mcmurray, PA

mkdud

175 (OBO)

Archived after: 22 days

Viewed: 273 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

This is my used and worn original EBD playfield from my 1984 EBD. This was replaced with an IPB by DMacy (Thanks DMacy!) in my serial #650 1984 EBD.

Thanks for reading, mk

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