Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider meSz.
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Working on an EBD plastic playfield. Anyone have experience with what to use for stripped holes? For wood pf the toothpick method works but wondering about plastic pf! Though about filling with Super glue or an epoxy then drill it???
Quoted from Lovef2k:I would try UV setting epoxy if it were me. Fill hole a little at a time until flush. Then pre drill.
any specific brand?
Quoted from Lovef2k:Try pinball Resource for it. Its 18 gauge 10 strands.
You're helping too many at one time .... I was the epoxy question 
Quoted from Lovef2k:Sorry. Got mixed up. Can't remember right now. I'm sure you can find something on Google or Amazon. I think they use it for fly fishing to assemble lures. You want something thin that can be dropped in the hole or something that can go on a syringe.
No apologies needed, just being goofy! Thanks for the info!
Quoted from DocGar:All I can find are 1/4" crown staplers and I seem to recall the staples being somewhat wider than that. Which stapler are you using?
Quoted from Lovef2k:It's a 22 gauge upholstery air stapler. It uses 10 mm wide staples. Unicatch makes a good one.
Even if you only do one pf swap the Unicatch is worth the purchase. Makes laying down the braid a simple task. Also, if you're going to add/redo all the "Tech" sheets (pic below) in the back box the Unicatch is great for this as well.
PICT0831 (resized).JPGQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Several posts back, someone was selling a complete set.
Yeah I seen that but I don't need a complete set. Thanks for post
Quoted from Lovef2k:Did you make sure the arm is moving freely? Make sure it's not binding from a bad or dirty coil sleeve.
If all other coils are working as they should , I wouldn't suspect the SEB. Check to see if the correct coil is installed there. It should have 3 lugs like a flipper coil. IIRC it's a AR 2600 or AT 2600? Check manual if you have it.
Also check that the wires are fully soldered to the lugs. seen before where a strand or two was the only this soldered to the lugs.
Quoted from matiou:Hello!
Can someone give me these 2 exact measurements ?
Thanks in advance!
[quoted image]
Mine is basically .75" for both BUT keep in mind that if you use my measurement your shooter rod may be off when striking the ball. You want to adjust this so that the shooter rod tip is hitting the pinball properly.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Surely someone is reproing these by now.. Right?
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I actually looked into repo-ing these. First I tried to see if Steve at PBR would do them and he said the demand just wasnt there so no plans to do so.
I then had it looked into having them made and it was just under 5k to make 1000 sets. Tooling being the most expense.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I don't like that news at all! Or the broken tabs above... Grooooannnn
I'd dump $100 easy on a set of whites that aren't fragile pieces of crap. Surely I can't be the only idiot out there?
Yeah and that's not including the license fee for Rick. Due to these having the EBD on them they would need licensed. Not sure what he charges but need to add that into the cost as well.
EBD Owners help a schematically challenged guy out! In my picture you can see I have a Black/Green (b/g) wire that has no home. I know that wire is lighting up the 4X insert but I don’t know where the other is to go? I found b/g is going to J3 on lamp board pin 14 the schematic shows this to be for FROM AUXL. EXPANDER J1 pin3 but that’s a solid black wire.
Also notice pin2 on the Expander J1 you’ll see it’s a light blue wire that comes in but then, it appears someone jumped it, goes out to the 555 socket above the Expander.
So my questions are.... is the light blue wire going to the Expandor a hack?
Where does the b/g wire go?
C1450E91-1083-43DC-ADFF-BCF6CC5F0CAB (resized).jpegQuoted from Lovef2k:There should be 2 solid blue thin wires going directly to the SEB lamp. they should be coming from the harness(loom) below the flipper. It looks like some tried to make a repair of the wiring that seems to be missing. What color is the blue/green wire above the heat shrink repair?
Quoted from vec-tor:What is the root color of the wire? The wire is cut up and shrink tubed.
Is the wire a splice? More clear pictures of the wiring harness....
Might have to cut the tie wraps.
I believe you two are eluding to the solid blue wire going into pin1. It’s solid blue but the sheathing was pinched to the point wire was exposed so shrink tube was put on it to avoid any issues.
DEB509B9-8406-4ADF-B4FF-C908E0471763 (resized).jpegThanks for the posts! So not sure if this matters or not but this is an early production machine (has the plastic playfield) so not sure if that matters as I know sometimes manufacturers changed things up.
Quoted from Lovef2k:The lamp bus line is pin 1 SEB and then to the lamp socket base, pin 2 is the switching wire from A5 J3 pin 11.
Quoted from vec-tor:Compare your solenoid expander relays to these pictures.
[quoted image]
Note: the #555 lamp has two 22AWG blue wire
[quoted image]
The blue 22AWG lamp buss goes to the lamp 1st
then to pin 2 of solenoid expander relay.
[quoted image]
Your pictures...
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and
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In comparing I notice that your pictures the wiring is different. First thing I notice is the wire to the light socket above the SEB cones down from the front of the pf whereas mine....there's no wire to do as such. For my machine it has to be either the blue wire from Pin2 on the SEB or the Black/Green wire.
This machine has sat for several years and I finally have it all back together to the point I am ready to fire it up. Just leary as I dont want to fry anything. Guess I could de-solder the blue wire turn machine on and see what doesn't work and go from there.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Please reread post 3021. It looks like it will work as is although it looks like a hack. The Blu/grn wire looks like an add on since the original thin blue wire is MIA. They used whatever wire they had available. Plastic pf makes no difference. It's just an early game. What's the serial number on left side of cab?
Ultimately the blue wire from lamp driver J3 pin 11 is coming from the head and goes down to the pf wire harness. It has to be long enough to reach the lamp socket by the SEB. Apparently your was damaged a some point. Then another blue thin wire identical to the wire from J3 pin goes from the lamp socket and returns to the harness and goes to the SEB J1 pin 2. So there should be 2 thin blue wires at the lamp socket tab. A single blue wire at SEB pin 2. The thicker light blue wire is J1 pin a and goes to the base of the lamp socket at SEB. So, pin 1 is the supply voltage and the pin 2 is the switching/ground side of the socket. Take more pics if you find it. Also see if there is continuity between the J3 pin 11 and J1 pin2 SEB. If there is, the coils should work, if not some coils will not but you should be able to power up. If in doubt, you can unplug the 4 right connectors at the power supply, turn on game measure the test points at the power supply. If good, turn off power, reconnect the 4 connectors and power up again. If the game goes into attract mode. Test all coils.
From your pic, you need to find out were the other end of the wire with the blu-grn goes. Find out the original color. It looks black in your pic but could be dark blue?
To help you understand a little more, all of the switched lamps in the game have a supply voltage (buss) to the socket base. each socket is switched by the colored wire soldered to the tabs. In this case, the SEB lamp socket has to go back to the SEB and switch the relay. Look at the SEB schematic if you have it. It's page W-1251 b in the manual.
My bad, thanks for the post.
I followed (traced) the black/green wire (the loose one in the picture) and found it goes to J1 pin 11 on Auxiliary Lamp Driver. So my original post was/is incorrect.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Ok no worries. I'll take a look at the schematics tonight after work. I work until after mid midnight though.
Okay appreciate it! Also I did trace "the blue wire from lamp driver J3 pin 11 is coming from the head and goes down to the pf wire harness" to J1 Pin 2 on the Solenoid Expander Board (SEB).
Quoted from Lovef2k:What the?
Quoted from frenchmarky:Some kind of procedure they used in the factory when testing the game while it was hooked up to some computerized testing unit or ??
What is that keyboard on left side of the picture?
6803 prototype EBD
Quoted from vec-tor:The stops are concaved in the inside, they are not hollow.
The two components mesh with each other.
This
D4A78EC6-D3FB-4CD4-816A-A55D35051C2D (resized).jpegCan someone advise as to the wiring on the right flipper? I am, by no means, proficient in reading schematics but even so the machine I am working on is a proto so the wire coloring is not accurate. So if someone wouldn't mind sharing a picture as to how the wiring is done on the right flipper, much appreciated!
Quoted from phillyfan64:This is with the playfield tilted up. Let me know if you need more. I need to redo that Bally wrapper.
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Many thanks!
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Forest City, PA