Picked up an EBD '81 version that has all red ringed posts instead of blue. Doesn't look like they were added in recent years. Anyone ever see this game with red posts?
(Topic ID: 66114)
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Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981-
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
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Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982
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Quoted from Gatecrasher:Why? There's a reason Bally decided to ditch them.
The amber ones are a lot nicer-looking and became a major part of the iconic theme.
Because they were the original design, and I think they look better than the amber ones.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Gatecrasher:A Bic lighter is a lot easier. A couple waves under the flame and it comes right off. No electricity or contact required.
you gotta admit the EBD with the white caps and red posts looks good. I think better than amber and blue.
3 weeks later
9 months later
Quoted from scampcamp:Mine says EED583x. I can’t make out what the last digit is on the backbox or cabinet.
like 5 thousand, 800 thirty something... means 4,830+
8 months later
3 months later
This is a common problem. I usually add a second spring and attach it to one of the other holes in the side plate.
The spring needs more of angle to seat the tether firmly.
1 month later
Quoted from Alan_L:I also found something when rebuilding the pops that I had not seen before. When you remove the bottom part of the bumper assembly from the coil, the metal and fiber yokes just fall off the end of the plunger. On my EBD the end of the plunger by the yokes has been pounded by what must have been the round end of a ball peen hammer and the metal and fiber yokes have been crushed together and will not come off the plunger. I had to find new plungers.
This looks like factory work. Has anyone else noticed this?
Yep. Those yokes have a raised little flared section near the opening that the plunger fits into. They are pretty tight. Put the plunger in a vise and hit the yoke with a hammer and it will pop off. These are different from the ones on most Bally 80’s games.
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
just use Hillman 30lb picture hanging wire. Its the right guage and very cheap. Solders good too. Around 3 bucks for 25ft.
25 feet will do 2 playfields. The PBR wire is ok, but it is a little thinner than the OEM Bally wire. If you use it, lower the pressure on your staple gun or you will sever the wire when you stable it. The Hillman wire is the exact guage of the OEM wire, and you can get it at most hardware, or big box stores. I buy it here for under $3.
4 weeks later
Quoted from BobLangelius:There is a reason it is so cheap. It’s steel not copper.
Steel has about 10% of the conductivity of copper.
If you check the resistance, its almost the same on a six -foot run. This is not used in an aircraft, so why pay 5 times more.
Before you replace the bridges, check the header pin joints on the solenoid expander for cracks. Might need some touch up with solder.
Quoted from Charger68:Cleaned fuse holders, wired spare rectifier in parallel, back box is grounded, no change in seb when putting pressure on it. Also noticed top saucer does nothing during game play. Incandescent by seb.Could the seb be bad
Does the lamp under the playfield flash in unison the other lamps during the self test?
Quoted from Charger68:They do, tried pulling voltage during lamp test,dmm was all over the place
check voltage at the coil. Either side. 43V? ground one side. does it fire?
I've never come across a bad relay in 30 in years on either a SDB or SEB unless it got water logged and corroded.
Quoted from Lovef2k:It probably is rare but ya never know. Aren't these the same as the flipper enable relay?
Yes. The same
3 weeks later
It’s a flattened truss head. They were used on early games mostly like Playboy but I found some on later games. They are not available. I just use a regular truss head like used in most Bally games after 1980.
1 month later
I think rustoleum canvas white is close to the original color. Whatever kind of paint Bally used on those aged badly. I had a good example of one that must not have seen the light of day and I was surprised how light the cream color was. Sometimes if you see a good original apron they haven’t aged as badly as the wood and the color is almost an off white.
3 months later
Quoted from phillyfan64:Just wondering if someone used the wrong speaker for my game. Schematic shows 8 ohm speaker but this looks like a 4 ohm speaker. I know Ken Layton had found some replacements online in another thread.
[quoted image]
That’s the right one. EBD, Fathom, Centaur etc. had 4 ohm from the factory.
1 month later
FYI, the original white caps are a different design than the amber. The white caps don't have the vertical lines in the cap like the amber.
Quoted from vec-tor:OEM EBD cap has a frosted type fx inside the top cap...
an acid is applied to the metal mold to create the fx.
Centaur introduced the starburst style design.
[quoted image]
1)OEM EBD production cap.
2) EBD later production.
3) Fireball OEM.
4) general cap replacement for NLA cap.
5) OEM Centaur cap. design change.
6) Final design change to cap.
I was referring to the white caps that came with early production games, which also had red posts instead of blue.
edb cap (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Guh, I love the white caps. I still don't know why they went away from those.
me too!
9 months later
Quoted from Dakine747:Does anyone know definitively if the original '81 EBD had blue ribbed playfield posts, or red??? I'm a bit of a purist with playfield parts, and I often refer to high resolution images on the original flyers. The original flyer for the '81 EBD shows RED posts, while a LOT of playfield restorations I'm seeing have blue. Anybody still own the original??? Thank you!!
The first several hundred production games had red posts and white pop bumper caps just like in the flyer.
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