(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 5,669 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by pindel
  • Topic is favorited by 199 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


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#3587 3 years ago

Just joined the club this past weekend after years of hunting for one for my collection! So excited!!

I'm looking for a new set of drop targets, does anyone recommend buying them from a particular place?

Also, where can i get new bumper caps with the EBD stamp on them? I'd also like to replace the outer part of the caps as well if i can get them.

Thanks!

1 month later
#3716 3 years ago

EBD really goes nicely with incandescent GI lighting, the art and colors really go well with "warmer" lighting imo. LEDs for the inserts is fine, but I'm kind of a stickler for incandescent lighting... especially on old classics like EBD.

#3718 3 years ago

Are there any settings to control the brightness of the LEDs? I know nothing about the boards that offer LED support, so that's just a thought. If so, you might be able to find some "warmer" incandescent-style LEDs and turn down the brightness, perhaps?

3 weeks later
#3797 3 years ago

Has anyone had trouble with the ball jumping over the saucer in the back behind the 8 ball? I finally got my EBDLE back together and that's one of the last issues I'm trying to sort out. Suggestions?

#3800 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

What is the shape of the clear plastics?

Both original parts as far as i can tell, but they don't appear broken at all. I've noticed in happen more frequently when a hard shot from the upper-left flipper goes up there, so i think I'm going to try to dial back the power on that flipper a bit by adjusting the EOS.

Good to know it's not uncommon on this game. Come to think of it, i had that happen occasionally on my Paragon a while back when i owned one.

#3802 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

The key is the clear plastics in the upper corner. They have to slow the ball enough to dump it into the saucer. I spent about 4 hours tweaking it on mine 10+ years ago and it's remained ok ever since.

Any specific tips for the tweaks that need to be made to the clear plastic guides? I'll see if i can loosen the screws a little and try slightly repositioning the plastic guides.

Good to know about the weaker flipper coil. If the EOS adjustment doesn't seem to cut it, I'll probably give that a try.

Thanks!

1 month later
#3873 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I feel like I'm missing something in plain sight...but which two prongs? The two on the right side of the first picture (my left) are on the same 'bar' and putting a tension spring on it doesn't really do anything. What exactly does this spring accomplish? The spring that's still on the assembly seems to keep proper tension on the kicker arm, at least as far as I can tell.

Just took a few pics of mine for ya:

IMG_20210323_090857.jpgIMG_20210323_090857.jpgIMG_20210323_090909.jpgIMG_20210323_090909.jpg
#3875 3 years ago

I remember playing around with that mech when i was shopping out my EBD, trying to understand the purpose of that spring. I still don't really get it, lol

1 week later
#3915 3 years ago

The 7-drop bank on my EBDLE is non-adjustable for height, and i also found the targets were sitting too low. I ended up adding a shim, similar idea to Lovef2k but i used a long zip tie with both ends cut off and glued it to the plate the targets rest on when they're down. It's hard to get a proper angle for the pics, but hopefully these convey the idea sufficiently. (First pic: target down, Second pic: targets up)
IMG_20210404_084308.jpgIMG_20210404_084308.jpg
IMG_20210404_084438.jpgIMG_20210404_084438.jpg

You'll need to find a shim of the proper thickness of course, and in my case the zip tie i had was just about thick enough. I may eventually try to find something ever-so-slightly thicker to get them just right, but so far it's working a lot better than it had been (not snaring slow balls nearly as often).

1 week later
#3969 3 years ago

Did you add a wiring harness to the 7-drop bank? If so, you may want to double check your connections there. Make absolutely certain that all diodes are oriented correctly on each switch and that none of the switches solder lugs are touching anything adjacent. I watched the video, and it looks like a switch matrix issue, as others have been pointing toward.

Have you tested the D-lane switch with each target individually dropped? By that i mean, drop ball 1 and try D switch. Then reset 1 ball, and drop 2 ball and try D switch. Reset 2, drop 3 and try D lane etc. Make sure it's definitely not tied to one specific drop target switch being activated leading to the crazy behavior when you push the D switch. You want to see if you can narrow it down to a particular switch (or set of switches) that cause the issue. You're getting there, hopefully you'll get to the bottom of it soon.

#3972 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I didn't change any diodes except for the one that I thought was bad on 7 (and I get different behavior now after doing that..so I guess it was bad?) Is there a possibility of something in the chain 'killing' diodes? I haven't desoldered one of the legs to the diode I replaced to see if it tests good or not. It buzzes as it sits and that's what prompted me to change the last one.

Could you post a couple pics of the switch for drop target 7? Try to get some good pics of the wiring to it and a side view of the switch so we can see the switch leaves clearly. You shouldn't be getting continuity across the diode. Makes me think you may have a tensioner leaf on the switch that might be shorting the switch closed...hard to say though.

#3995 3 years ago

Looks like the lights that are out are mostly controlled by the auxiliary lamp driver. I would reseat the connectors to the auxiliary lamp driver board and see if that improves anything. I had to replace connector J1 on mine due to bad ground pins. Looks like the female side of J1 has been replaced, but have the male headers for J1 also been replaced? You can even try wiggling or flexing J1 with the game on to see if that gets the lamps to come to life. Here's the board I'm talking about, J1 is the bottom-right connector:

1451693945.png1451693945.png

#3997 3 years ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Strange though since he has an extra ground wire added that's tied right to the aux lamp board, if that is solid then it doesn't seem to be just cooked ground pins on the connector like it usually is on that board.

That's a good point. I've never seen that style ground mod on a Bally game, only on Gottlieb's. I'd certainly verify that the ground pins at J1 have continuity to the ground connection(s) in the backbox--you can check between J1 pin 15 of the aux lamp driver and the ground strap in the backbox for continuity (and verify the ground strap is screwed down in the backbox).

Come to think of it: what exactly is going on here? I presumed this was a ground connection but it seems to be tapping into the +DC voltage for the "DELUXE" lights on the backbox That's definitely not factory, at very least. Not sure if that would be the cause of the problem, and I'm not sure what that small connector at the bottom of the non-aux lamp driver board is either:
Screenshot_20210420_070901_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpgScreenshot_20210420_070901_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpg

It looks like J1 must have had a problem at some point, at least. Still worth a look, but the problem could certainly be somewhere else...(possibly something to do with those wiring hacks around the lamp driver boards)

#3999 3 years ago

Ahh, ok so i see what the connections are for now. J5 on the weebly.nvram.com lamp driver board has a pin to feed power to the backbox lamps.
Screenshot_20210420_091355_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpgScreenshot_20210420_091355_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpg
So that's ok, but i don't think you should have the wire from the aux board tied into it. If anything, try disconnecting the wire from the aux lamp driver board to that junction someone added below the lamp boards. I don't think that should be tied in there. (I could be wrong, but it's what I'd try next)

Did you notice if any of the backbox feature lamps work?

#4009 2 years ago

To check for 5v at the aux lamp driver: set meter to measure dc volts and place red lead on test point 1 (TP1 on board) and the black lead on TP2. Should have close to 5v DC.

#4021 2 years ago

I'd get a closer look at the J1 connector and verify all the wires are in the correct slots. I also noticed something that appears a bit off, might want to get a closer look at the wiring here in particular... Is that exposed wiring?
618715992.png618715992.png

Perhaps they had to add length to some of the wiring or splice 2 wires to one for some of the slots on the female connector. Make sure that wiring is all insulated in any case, perhaps there's some clear insulation around the splices (or whatever that may be). Maybe it's just the angle of the photo or something, but it seems like that might be a potential source of trouble.

I was hoping the new board would fix the problem too

#4023 2 years ago

Is there a +5vdc test point and ground test point on the aux lamp driver? If so, set your meter to check dc volts and put the red lead on the +5, black lead on ground.

Otherwise, try red lead on J1 pin 1, black lead on J1 pin 15 (you should be able to sneak the leads into the back side of the connector for this test).

1 week later
#4108 2 years ago

I was thinking maybe the wiring on trimoto saucer coil looks wrong, but the diodes are set up differently than my coil for ebd. Here's mine for comparison:IMG_20210507_084639.jpgIMG_20210507_084639.jpg

And his:
Screenshot_20210507_083948_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpgScreenshot_20210507_083948_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpg

Probably not the problem though?

#4110 2 years ago

Interesting... Then granted they have the same coil as we do, they should remove the diode connecting the center lug to the right lug and install a diode that reaches across from the left lug to the right lug like our coils are situated...then move the brown wiring to the center lug.

I think?

#4112 2 years ago

Nice!!!

I knew something looked off there, but my initial instinct was just that the wiring was on the wrong lug... after a while i realize the diodes were wired up differently than mine...

Hopefully this helps them get their game fully operational!

4 months later
#4329 2 years ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

Waiting for another CPR pf run, dont think I want to go the hardtop route.

It may be your lucky day then--i was on their site recently and noticed they have EBD in stock (at least according to their site): https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/ebd-playfield/

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