So, have an ebd le, that has an original 81 pf in it. Want to convert it to an 81 (game needs a backglass anyways). So, what games had the correct cabinet? Need a lift out backglass and hinged head right? Flash gordon would work, but outside of that not sure what I need.

That part is easy enough. Buddy has an 81 that I can use to make a template.

Harder part is going to be finding the missing parts to my 7 bank drop tragets.

Was planning on replacing all the boards in my EBD and Flash. Partly just for the fun as looking at building boards when possible. I could fix the other's, but thought was to get the games going this year and then look at cab/pf restores next year.

CPU will be Bally FA.
Displays for FG are wolfpac, might get them again or go with lisy displays. Like the foam cover that comes with the wolfpac's though and cost for the kit is within 15 of building a one off of lisy.

Weebly makes kits for the lamp and aux lamp board. I plan on doing leds, but wondered if there was a benefit to going with xpin or alltek? Does one have better fade support?

Driver board doesn't seem to matter who I go with.

Power supply board would probably be weebly.

I have one S&T and it supposedly works and was recapped, but leaning toward geeteoh's when he releases version 3. There is the one out of the UK, but it still uses the original chips which are getting scarce.

Think i have ebd overload.

I now have 3 81 ebds to deal with.
Then a semi populated 81 pf.
Then parts i need to figure out value on.

But you have your own ebd already.

Buddy got 2 basket cases. I got the leftover le. Planned on converting it to an 81.

Got a solid cab, but otherwise rough 81. Took the best of both, sold the LE.

Traded someone for two semi restored examples this weekend and a bunch of parts. The semi populated pf is surprisingly nice.

Probably keep one. Someone was interested in the original 81. Need to fix the one I am keeping (it has a connector issue among other things) and put together the one I will sell.

After a lot of work, and with a lot of work ahead.

Spare pf is the roughest of the three.

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Of the ones i just got. My last le was driftwood. My basket case 81 is in similar shape to dhards.

Anyone know what the following are worth?
7 bank assembly complete
7 bank rest coils and bracket, complete
7 bank reset coils minus 1 coil
transformer assembly including mounting plate and board

I could use a little help. For some unexplained reason a previous owner replaced all the braided wire under the playfield with undersized solid core wire that burns. This is an 81 with all 555 sockets. It looks like someone stripped the bottom of the playfield, and then reassembled haphazardly. Mismatched hardware, hacks, you name it. I am trying to set it straight.

I am converting the game to yopsicle boards and using picture hanging wire people suggest elsewhere on pinside, but I am trying to verify how the cpu ground wire is run. From the image gallery it looks like the ground starts at the shoot again insert, then runs down the middle til it hits the slings. From there it runs over to the left inlane/outlane inserts(when viewing under the machine). It then runs through the center, to the right inlane outlane inserts.

From there I am having trouble making out what happens. Does it go through the drop target inserts first or the center? Is there really only one ground connection for the center insert lights? From the shoot again all the way up to the drop target lights?

Figured I would add a few pics. This is why you always check games before buying. I got this from a long time friend and fellow pinsider. They had it for years, never shopped it out. I bought it based on a few old pics and since it was already folded up did not look it over before buying because I trusted them... By the time I figured it out they had spent the money and i got a "I hope this doesn't affect our friendship."

Aside from the undersized wiring that had burned through and been soldered back together. There were a few electrified t-nuts because I guess t-nuts hold better than staples? Game has a mismatch of hardware. Found two screws snapped off in the wood so far. Top side of the pf, lotta broken plastics, unshopped, lot of wrong hardware. Lot of extra holes in the pf near where posts go because they don't believe in fixing stripped holes. The only upsides are that the cabinet is solid and the hardware isn't rusty. I paid 2500 for this turd. Had I known I wouldn't have touched it for half that. It will be an ok example when I finish, but the amount of work required to fix this means I won't be buying anymore games off *friends* without going over them just the same as I would a stranger so lesson learned.

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Oh, they won't. I am ripping everything out to be safe. Besides the wire had burned through in multiple places so even if it had worked with led lamps, it wouldn't necessarily hold up to vibration.

Not going to defend the registration issues but the colors? Have seen too much variation in original nos parts. There are three separate versions of ebd years apart and to think that all have the same colored plastics is laughable.

And? That is your plastics vs theirs. Doesn't change that there were three separate runs of ebd years apart. Hell, when you get into the large scale production runs there are often multiple manufacturers involved in making the same parts. Colors can vary not only by manufacturer but different depending on when it was made in the run.

Do I get upset because one is more brown?

No, I play my pinball machines. I don't fawn over minute details that you can't even be completely sure are wrong. To be completely honest the colors on both are fine to me. I'm pretty sure if I had a shopped game with either no one would comment on them. Then again I've had nos plastics from a number of games that didn't look the same as the ones I pulled out.

the registration on some of their plastics is poor. I am shopping an le and an 81 right now. I am using an old plastic set of theirs and few holes are off. I am making it work but can understand frustration. That to me is sloppy work. I do not know how old the set is since it came with one of the other five prior ebd's I have owned.

And for fun here are two sets I pulled off my 81 and le. One set is darker than the other. The brown while more orange than my CPR set is a different shade on both sets.

Another is look at the details. The lines for the right side of the cowboy's brim are noticeably thicker. The same on the cowgirls neck. The registration on from the le is overall thicker across the entire plastic.

I prefer the thinner lines on the earlier set but bother are correct. Now remember that there were thousands of sets made across 81, 82 and 84. The colors will vary and if cpr used a darker brown set as a reference, it is still correct.

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