Hey guys. Just joined the club. I have never had a talking game before. Anyone know why my sound is just reverb when the game is on? The board boots fine and the connectors are plugged in correctly. Not sure what to check next. See video below. The video also shows my flipper issue. Left button does work, and the right button operates the left flippers.

Thanks!

I traced the wires from J1 and J2 back to the flipper coils and switches and they are wired correctly. Also, before I got the machine it worked, so something happened between when the back box was disconnected, and when I reconnected it. I have checked the connections on the SDB multiple times and everything looks right according to the schematics.

actually the single drop doesn't reset. I noticed that last night. But yes, all other coils work properly.

Okay I will. thanks.

I didn't think to do this. I will check this as well. Sweet avatar too. Floyd is amazing.

Now that I look at the schematics, this makes sense. Because if I somehow reconnected J1 wrong (off by one pin), and I plugged this into J1 so that the connector's slot 9 is plugged into pin 8 on J1, I would have power for the left flipper running to the right switch. and since the left flipper switch and single target reset got moved to unused pins, they would have no activity.

If this is the case, I am going to feel so stupid since I have unplugged and then plugged this connector back in like 10 times checking to see if I had it right, haha. Here's to hoping. I will report back tonight.

double post

Flippers fixed. Apparently the connector was repinned with the 5, 8, and 9 wires pinned to the 4, 7, and 8 positions. So even though I had the connector flush with the male end, the wires weren't set to hit the right pins on the male end. Anyway, thanks for the tip! Now just need to figure out the sound issue. I went to test 18 and that didn't help.

Board boots. I get five flashes. What does it mean to reflow the headers? Also, what do AMI PIA chips look like?

Thanks. I'll get to work.

I haven't played mine enough yet to know, but I tend to set all mine as steep as possible to make them as hard as possible.

Yeah I think the early SS games are definitely at a more shallow pitch. I'd be interested to hear ideas as the best pitch for this game too.

Anyone know where I can get part #ASE-2250-27 (Ball Gate). It is the gate on the left rollover lane at the top. I do not have the wire door for the gate that makes it a one way lane.

I checked with PBR and they don't have it. Also looked on Marco and couldn't find one or one that would work.

Awesome. Thanks vid.

Check out the improvements I made to my EBDLE backglass lighting. Had a friend make me a custom set of two led strips.

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Then I thought, warm white would look better and three strips. Just received the new custom made strips yesterday.

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Whoa baby. I think we have a winner!!

Yeah I guess you're right about the color pop. I guess I just wanted a more original look just brighter. Either way, much better option than the stock bulb haha

I have also found it helps to make sure the flippers are not resting too low. set their rest position a bit higher to help the smooth transition from inlane to flipper.

That is the only drawback. To get a nice smooth transition on mine I had to make one flipper have a pretty high end of stroke resting spot.

neato. I might try these. Do you have a link to where you bought them at? not sure what size I need.

Thanks!

Wow. that looks great. I would say grab it up! I think most that prefer the OG is the value factor, but from what I hear it is very hard to find one in any sort of decent shape. But this is coming from a guy that owns the LE with a playfield overlay. I think a lot of people would say the value of mine is much lower because of the overlay, but it looks and plays great, and that is all that matters to me!

what are you opinions of playfield overlays? I have never had one before, and I know the LE cab is not desirable, but if you want a nice EBD that plays well, why not? I don't notice the overlay playing any different than an OG playfield.

I have a question about the twist in 555 sockets. I have them in my LE. The 13 ball light for the drop targets doesn't work, as well as one of the deluxe letters. I have tried new bulbs and new twist in sockets. No help. What should I do next to fix it?

And if they don't?

loud and clear. I will check this out this weekend

Sorry. My wording was weird. I meant to say the the 13 ball light for the drop targets doesn't work. One of the deluxe letter doesn't work either.

So I was playing last night and noticed that the Special and 50k (Red and Blue in the middle of the PF) lights for the deluxe targets were stuck on during every game. Not sure how to fix this. I thought maybe I flipped an extra switch when I was adjusting the settings, but I don't think there is any setting that would keep those lights on during your ball. I also didn't notice a change in scoring.

Any ideas?

No. They behave correctly during attract mode and do not turn on until the attract mode starts rolling. When I start a game, the lights all over the playfield do their normal beginning of ball strobe, the ball feeds to the shooter lane, then like a split second later those two lamps light.

Treasure Cove polishing kit eh? I bet that would be the stuff I would need to use on my overlay. I have just been using novus 1 so far. Wasn't really sure what was best to use.

Weird. It was fine tonight when I booted her up. I will keep an eye on it.

Thanks for the reminder about these. Just ordered some!

I also wanted to follow up with a way better picture of my LE backglass with LED strips in it. This is what is actually looks like in person. Hard to take accurate pics of how LEDs look in a game. Highly recommend doing this. It does create glare if you are playing with the lights off. If you are playing in a well lit room it is not an issue though.

DSC01116.JPG

Well. If you are using one or two strips I alligator clipped them to the MPU on tp3. But, since I'm running three it was too much power draw to do that so I hooked it up to its own power source and plugged into the Aux plug inside the cab.

Wow looks great. Well done.

I just installed my cliffys on the inlanes. They work great!! Thanks for the heads up PracticalSteve!

Yeah if anyone figured out the rift colors to use for the cabinet, post here. I want to touchup mine as well.

Thanks! anyone have a handle on the LE cab paint types?

LEDs look great in this game IMO if you go warm white everywhere. I used Comet LEDs TWIN 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS frosted warm white BULBs in the lights that surround the left and right upper lanes (left rollover, right EB target). Then I used Comet 2 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS with FACETED LENS bulbs for under all the plastics for the rest of the game. Warm white for all GI bulbs except for the top rollover lanes. I color matched those with blue 2 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS with FACETED LENS bulbs.

Here is what mine looks like with the bulbs that I mentioned before. Pretty similar.

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Here is what I used for the pops. Comet as well. Since these are not GI, they may flicker or ghost if you don't have an LED board or resistors on the sockets. I have an alltek lamp board in my game that allows me to put LEDs in the whole game without issue. Good luck!!

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I did nothing to the aux lamp board. I just replaced the main lamp board.

Haven't seen cue balls, but I have this in my game.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-B8B

My game is fast too. I hate how those powerballs play anyway, but a good idea if you really want that cue ball look in there.

Yeah I was pumped when I came across that. the best part about that ball is you can read the spin on it and anticipate where it is going to go easier. Also, I got an eight ball custom shooter rod from pinball_customs. it looks awesome. I am not a huge fan of custom shooter rods, but this one is subtle and works well.

To me it feels like playing with a plastic ball, and really floaty like a balloon. Haha. Hard to explain. Noticeably different though. Not a good different IMO.

I think there are parts manuals on planetary pinball's website.

Yeah, I was pumped when I first found that. I was able to order from PBR with confidence, haha.

Hey guys! My EBDLE won best in show at the Cleveland event this weekend. Posted over in that thread already but thought I'd post here to represent our group!

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Quick question. How does everyone have their flippers adjusted? A good buddy of mine played mine and said he didn't like how low mine sit. I have mine in line with the metal bars under each flipper, as in, in the rest position, the bat is touching those bars. I adjusted mine last night to get them off those bars, but I hated how high the flipper travels when I do that. It's so much so that you can trap a ball that is flying down the inlane. I don't think you should ever be able to do that.

Can you show me a pic of your flippers in the up position too? Also I don't see how a metal bar can be broken by a plastic flipper bat, but good point if true.

Just saying the plastic the flipper bats are made out of doesn't seem like it can break a metal bar in two. There's been 500 plus games and counting with them like that, but I definitely don't want anything to break so I moved them up off of touching those bars. Thanks for the heads up.

Sweet. Thanks for the pic. I set mine up just like that now.

Totally agree. I've noticed this with other flippers I have had. Luckily here I can adjust them okay.

That's cause you are spoiled by all those classic Sterns in your lineup.

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Yay please share. Or I will gladly pay for a set. Looks awesome!

Great restore candidate. Nice find!

For the most desirable 1980 version id say around 2500-3000 for a nice one. Haven't seen them come up too much so I would be way off.

Either Mylar to cover the spot, or wax it regularly. Unless it's getting played to hell and back, that should keep it from getting worse.

Didn't know you had one. I'll have to come by and show you how it's done. Haha

Steve Castle is an option too in Lexington. Good guy and I am sure he would be able to help you with your questions.

http://www.castleclassicarcade.com

I don't think so because if you run the sounds test he only says 3 ball and 5 ball.

Will the CPR playfield for EBD that I just pre-ordered have all the dimples in it? I have never bought a CPR before.

Ditch it and just do LED strips. Rock pinball made me a custom setup. Really cheap and easy to set up.

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If you only run two strips you can aligator clip it to TP3 or TP2 on the MPU.

Since I used three, it is plugged into the aux outlet inside the cabinet.

Yes warm white. I first tried two cool white strips and it looks like this

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I just didn't like it cool white and with two strips you can see a dark spot through the middle of the glass. That bothered me too.

So went to warm white and got three strips.

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Now, with using the aux plug I was only able to turn it off if the game was unplugged or on a controlled switch, so I put a wireless outlet plug on the aux outlet in the game and turn it on and off by remote.

Yeah I agree. It's hard to get the best of both worlds.

Yes and yes. I'm sure people will back out. Maybe you can get on a waitlist?

Made this for the LE. Should be the same though.

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/39

Anyone know what kind of switch I need at the outhole? Mines all beat up and I want to get a new one in there as it acts flaky from time to time. I'm sure it's just a generic switch but want to make sure I get the right one.

Thanks!

Thanks. I think it's the switch because if the ball goes into the outhole and doesn't end my ball. Then if I open the coin door and manually close the switch it works. So for now I have it gapped very very close. I would just like to have a new switch on hand. If you still think it could be my SEB, I would need further assistance on testing that.

Thanks again.

Too late. Haha. Had a NO switch that fit in that position. Works fine now, but we will see if it starts acting wonky too. Here's a pic of the old switch contacts.

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It's funny you mentioned solder cause that looks like what happened with this switch at one point.

Yeah I don't see me selling this thing, so new switch for me.

Learning how to read the schematics helps understand what wires are doing what too. I know it looks insane at first, but if I can figure it out, anyone can. Haha

In my experience you have a bad transistor on the solenoid driver board that's in the head of the game. Not sure which one it is though. Try and check the schematics. Once you find it, replace it.

Did this coil lock on the second you powered on the game?

Looks like the stock ones are here.

http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Right+ball+deluxe&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick

I have just the main board as alltek and my LEDs work fine throughout the whole game.

I just used a basic NO switch for mine. I think they were from Big Daddy's.

I just reused the same diode.

I'd say 500. If the sound board cannot be repaired, not sure how hard those are to find, but there is no aftermarket option that I know of.

I make a mixture of saw dust and wood glue til it's the consistency of tuna salad (actually looks like it too). Then I use a very small flat head screw driver and plug the hole the post sits over. Wipe away the excess that's around the hole, let it sit over night, then put the post back. Should be able to make it as tight as you want.

What do you mean? The attract sounds can def be turned off. You want the light show to be turned off too?

Check the manual on ipdb.org. I cannot pull it up right now. Internet is messed. Should be an adjustment in the menus or a dip switch setting.

Each additional time you complete ABCD another pop bumper starts flashing.

I have mine jacked up too. Probably 7 degrees.

1,500-1,700 maybe? Not really sure.

Maybe the spring is worn out or is the wrong kind. I'd look there.

My EBD Looked exactly the same as the above picture and it was all LEDs. It's possible to make it look nice IMO.

Does it boot correctly?

Got mine from Great Plains electronics. EBD is all .100 and .156 connectors I believe.

Cliffys has metal ones.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

Here's the page I was talking about. I think I just emailed him and asked for the ones for EBD.

Congrats!! I loved mine

Yep. I also got some of the slim silicone flipper rings from Titan that I tried first but it didn't quite get me there. The cliffys did the trick.

For my LE all I needed for using LEDs everywhere without issue was the alltek lamp board. no aux lamp board changes needed at all.

But yes the lamp board eliminates the need for resistors on each socket. My playfield got supper hot too. The LEDs helped with that.

Detailed parts catalogs are on the PPS website. Game specific as well as common parts.

In my LE all that was needed is the main lamp board.

was this target replaced too? Is the housing for the drop target worn at all? The shelf that the target sits on when up. Was the old target too sensitive too?

Maybe the housing isn't sitting far enough forward? I had new targets that were too sensitive because the notch on the target that hangs on the housing when the target was up was way smaller than the stock target making it fall down way too easy. I carved out a bit more to give it more room to sit up there is that makes sense.

Yep that's what I was talking about. That's all I got sorry. Haha. I took the housing completely apart on mine so that's weird you're having this issue with just replacing the target.

Btw did your dog get to that old target? Hahaha

Sorry to hear. Losing pets is horrible.

He needs pics of the 8 ball target I think. The single one up the top right side by the saucer.

Whoa. Looks way better than an OG eight ball target if you ask me.

If you're only using two strips I was able to use TP2 from the MPU I believe. However my strips were only drawing 6v maybe. Unsure as I got them custom made from Rock pinball.

He cut them to length perfectly and had them all connected already with plenty of slack and alligator clips to clip to the TP point on the board. I didn't know how to do any of that.