(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)


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#1600 2 years ago
Quoted from tominator:

Better get some plastic lane guides on there! (Where the ball feeds to the flippers)... and some new in line targets too...
The red doesn't look too bad! I thought it would be worse...

Mine is in Red too. I prefer the red over the blue. And, of course, long ago, the upper lane guides were replaced (or originally were) translucent red. Blue never looked right to me on all the re-releases. But then I have been playing this one since 1981!. Yes, White Bumper caps broke their tabs so Translucent got purchased at the Distributor in the 80's. since they were out of Amber rings, they sold me EBD amber caps with Red Centaur Rings. Been that way ever since and I have always liked the look.

The Special inserts were Milky Red, not translucent red like the NOS Bally playfield I installed back in the late 80's.

If course, I have always wondered if the game would look better with Green Posts since, after all, it is a Pool Table Game.

1 week later
#1621 2 years ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Yes! Thanks BigL.
So no diodes on that one? That wiring (two wires each post) is how the machine I'm working on is set up... the other one next to it has the diodes and seems to use the center post... any idea whats going on there? Do you need the diodes or not? They are present in the schematic...

The outhole kicker is part of the solenoid "Matrix" where they used the solenoid expander to allow each driver to drive two coils depending on which one got power. This is why when the solenoid expander has issues, or you don't have power for the feature lamps, the game will reset the drop targets and then drop the #1 target instead of serving the ball since it is shared with the outhole.

It would appear that someone replaced the 3 lug coil with diodes with a standard two lug coil.

#1624 2 years ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Cactus: dont both photos show 3 posts though???

Yes, My mistake. I got hung up on the two wires part and no diodes.

Wiring will depend on where the actual enameled wire from the coil go. Those two lugs would have a diode across them (to prevent back EMF) and then the extra lug is used to put a diode in series with the coil and wires. Maybe I can get a shot of mine tonight.

#1627 2 years ago

Connection will all depend on where the coil enamel wires are and how the diodes are facing. The stripe on the diode (Cathode) matched to the flat line of the diode schematic symbol. The Arrow is the un-striped side.

ebdouthole (resized).JPG

ballycolorcode (resized).JPG

#1629 2 years ago

snyper2099, What are you talking about?

THIS three lug coil is not a Flipper Coil, it is a special coil where they used the three lug bobbin so they connect a single coil with a diode across it, and then place another diode in series with the coil so it could be used in a mini coil matrix (Solenoid Expander Relay) as pictured in the snips I posted above.

#1631 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

That's strange. If you look up the part number, it's the same coil Bally used on most of their linear flipper assmeblies.

Okay, I could be wrong. I will have to see what is installed in my EBD. I just have not seen them use that diode arrangement other than on this type of coil.

ebdcoils (resized).JPG

#1637 2 years ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Oh, Cactus said this:
and then the extra lug is used to put a diode in series with the coil and wires
I'm not understanding how that makes it series... ? To my unknowing brain it seems like you would have to attach the wire to the diode and the diode to the post for it to be series. What am I missing?

As best as I can tell from the schematic and some poor photos, the center post does NOT have any coil winding on it. So, the only thing attached to the center lug is the Anode of one of the diodes. That diode then allows power to pass to one of the other coil lugs which has both a coil winding and the Cathode of the other diode. So, instead of just having the diode "in line" with the wire before it attaches to the coil (like by using a solder eyelet screwed to the playfield nearby, they used the 3rd lug on the coil as a solder point for the in-series diode.

The first diode prevents power, that can pass through one of the coils, from finding its way to the other Power Buss of the Solenoid Expander relay. See red power path:

ebdoutholeX (resized).jpg

#1658 2 years ago

Don't forget LEDs don't play nice with original Bally LDB and remember EBD has an Aux driver board for things like the deluxe back glass letters and special GI.

So be prepared for after market driver boards, or adding 470 ohm resistors to every socket or buying after market resistor load boards to stop flicker.

#1660 2 years ago

No lamp matrix on EBD. Just an extra Aux lamp driver board for all the excess lights ( like the upper side shots you mentioned).

Bally ultimately used 2 phase lighting where one drive SCR controlled two lamp sockets. So they shared the same lamp return but used opposite AC phases from the transformer. But that wasn't used until later (Baby PAC Man as I recall).

Your on and then dim lights are probably stuck on and go dim when ALL lamps are turned on.

Your dead GI string is probably burnt pins for the play field 6.3 VAC. Since the bulbs you describe may be some of the only GI running of 6VAC.

#1662 2 years ago

Well, the Aux board is just an extension of more computer controlled lights via SCRs. So I would assume they need special treatment just like the rest.

#1664 2 years ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Any other reason they could be stuck on?

Shorted SCR.

Dead GI is pretty easy: identify the two solid wire colors that feed the dead string of GI lamps and check those wires at the rectifier/fuse PCB.

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