(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by mbeardsley
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Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


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#4430 2 years ago

Hi all, I picked up an Eight Ball Deluxe 84 earlier this year, previous owner wasn't really a pinball person so not much was done to it but after bringing it home and testing the game out everything seemed to be ok until I knocked down all of the ball drop targets and then I noticed a slingshot was firing when the stand up deluxe targets were hit, pretty soon after I could smell something heating up/burning and found the q7 transistor was burned on the solenoid driver board.

I sent the board to Chris Hibler for service and he mentioned the q4 was shorted and q7 transistor was inoperable, he fixed everything up but I am wondering if it's safe to plug it back in or will it likely happen again. Still new to diagnosing and I'm unsure why the transistors were shorted to begin with.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

#4432 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If Hibler worked on your board then it should be good to go.
Transistors goes bad, nothing about that is unusual. Age, heat and normal abuse all factor in.

Thanks a lot that's reassuring to hear. Much appreciated!

#4434 2 years ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

The reason for a blown transistor may as well be a bad diode on the coil - so no bad idea to check that, too.

Good idea thanks for the suggestion. I'll be sure to check the diodes just in case.

3 months later
#4593 2 years ago

Getting ready to start working on my 84 EBD. It's in good shape but needs to be shopped and has a few hacks I need to undo, going to start with this one. I had the boards serviced by Chris Hibler with new male connectors so those should be good to go. Will be my first time replacing a connector and I'm not sure which one to get. Could someone please let me know which connector and pins to buy to replace this one? Thanks!

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#4597 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

That is the "0.1" molex
Great Plains has some of the best variety. Otherwise you can also dig around at digikey/mouser, etc
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=70
Sometimes I just order the longest ones, then cut to fit. Also get the pins and plugs if you need too. The auto/hand crimper and stripper will make the job much easier.

Thank you for the info! Much appreciated!

1 month later
#4706 1 year ago

Previous owner ripped out the left side of the grounding paper in the backbox, not sure why they did that but the ground braid is now only touching this spot. Should I add a short length of ground braid to connect to the rest of the ground backing or is it ok to leave as is? Thanks.

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#4709 1 year ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

That looks terrible. Remove everything out of the backbox, then replace the tin coated paper with a new one, or, even better, with real tin.

Quoted from Mathazar:

+1. You can get rolls of roof "flashing" material at your local Home Depot or Lowes and then cut out the pieces/sizes you need to do the backbox properly. Shouldn't cost more than $30 in materials.
Here's an example I did when I restored my Mata Hari: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardtop-install-for-ss-mata-hari/page/2#post-6337606

Excellent info thank you both for the responses! I agree it is not pretty and I plan on replacing the backing but couldnt find a source for the foil paper so thanks for providing a link for that. I do have some other backbox work to do so I'll tackle it together. Was hoping to get the game fired up after getting the boards back from being serviced but don't want to cause any damage, is it advised to address this issue first or in the meantime is it ok to power on the game if I add a length of braid as a temporary solution? Thanks again!

#4713 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

If it were me, I'd wait till I had the backbox grounded properly sorted before powering on. Have you had it powered on before? I noticed this curious looking wiring modification as well....you might want to look into that. I don't have that in my EBD, tho mine is a 1984 vs. your 1981. Different cabs, but the wiring harness should be the same.[quoted image]

Thanks a lot! Yeah it's definitely a wiring hack, one of a few I've found since buying. Actually this is an 84 as well. It has been powered on before once at the sellers place to see that it powered on and could play a game but I didn't do a lot of inspection while I was there. Once I got it home I powered it on and play tested a bit but soon found/smelled a transistor had burned up on the driver board so I sent out the boards for service and recently got them back and so far have not powered it back on.

If it's not too much trouble I may need some pictures later on of your connectors so I can see how my hacked ones would have originally been wired. Thanks again!

#4715 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Here's a resto thread I did for my '84 EBD...some pix may help you along the way.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardtop-install-and-restoration-for-eight-ball-deluxe
If/when you need a close-up pic of something in particular, like a connector, just let me know and I can take it / post it within a day or two. Do you have a set schematics yet? They include the color codes for each wire at each connection point. If your machine hasn't been hacked up too much with incorrect color wires, it would be very useful to you.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/762/Bally_1981_Eight_Ball_Deluxe_English_Manual_Model_1220_includes_paginated_schematics.pdf
The schematics for the 1984 are the same as the 1981. I use the 1981 document because the schematics are A LOT more legible than the scans in the 1984 manual.

Thank you for all the info it's very much appreciated. Reassuring to know that if I get stuck I can reach out here for help. I do have a manual/schematic so that should prove useful. Will definitely check out your restoration thread for any tips. Thanks again!

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