Hey guys,

Troubleshooting a EBD for a friend... The Solenoid for the out hole kicker wasn't ever wired up after a playfield restoration and I can't decipher the wiring diagram.

Could someone post some photos of their 1981 EBD out hole kickers wiring please? I check the photos in this thread and didn't see one... I know there are sposta be two diodes in there, so I'll pick those up, but wanted to be sure of the wiring before firing it up again,

Thanks!

Yes! Thanks BigL.

So no diodes on that one? That wiring (two wires each post) is how the machine I'm working on is set up... the other one next to it has the diodes and seems to use the center post... any idea whats going on there? Do you need the diodes or not? They are present in the schematic...

Ok, so that would be a common repair error since people dont understand that diodes help prevent that crosstalk in the matrix with the expander, I assume.

Cactus: dont both photos show 3 posts though???

Anyone got a photo showing how the diodes are wired?

Vector, ok... can you explain why? Does the schematic show it that way or not?

Oh, Cactus said this:

and then the extra lug is used to put a diode in series with the coil and wires

I'm not understanding how that makes it series... ? To my unknowing brain it seems like you would have to attach the wire to the diode and the diode to the post for it to be series. What am I missing?

Ok, Cactus... I think I'm on board now. So you're saying the center post on this particular SOL is ONLY there as a point to solder to? (this can be different on flipper SOLs, right?)

Assuming that is right (center post = no wraps) then the photo that Bryan Kelly posted is wrong, or at least substantially different... as if the center post isn't wired to anything then one of those diodes isn't doing anything at all because one end isn't connected to anything.... right??? Could the SOL still work wired like this? or are we making an incorrect assumption about that center post?

Where as in the photo posted by g94 the two brown power lines are on the center post, from which current would then flow through the diode and into the coils, and the other diode bridges post 1 and post 3. This seems to match the schematic 100%.

Am I on track here? Thanks again for your time, its really helpful to have folks like you take the time to answer my questions thoroughly.

Awesome. Thanks Bryan, I got it now. Thanks for posting a clear photo.

Any reason yours was wired to exclude the diode? It still works that way but there is more chance of the expander matrix doing weird things, right?

Update on the project EBD:

Got some more feature lamps working (wiring errors, as suspected)

Now we're having some weird issues with some GI. During test mode two of the GI lamps flash 'backwards'... in that they are on when everything else is off. Then they go very dim when everything else is ON. Seems like they must somehow be wired so they are getting power from the wrong place (maybe two places?) Has anyone come across this before and have an idea what the issue might be? These issues are both on the 8 GI lamps around the orbit that do flash during the lamp test.

GI across the top A B lanes is not working at all.
GI in the slings and above the outlanes is not working at all.
There seem to be 3 pins out on the bottom left connector of the AUX lamp switch... going to look up if those are for GI. Hoping that is the problem on those...

Two more general questions:

Does EBD have a lamp matrix? seems like it doesn't, and everything is just wired 1 to 1... I understand that in a matrix there is switching on both the positive and ground side of the lamp, but it seems like on EBD the grounds are all common (at least for a group of lights) so the switching must be done from the positive side... right?

And about the GI, am I understanding correctly that the GI is just not in the schematic at all? It seems like there is just that one circuit that says 'GI' but doesn't show you where anything goes to ground or gets power (because it doesn't really matter). But with some GI lamps flashing during test and some always on, it does matter a bit right? Any help on that? I feel like some of the GI backwards and always on problems I'm having are because the power routing isn't right...

Also, what do I need to re-pin the AUX LAMP connectors? Parts numbers on Marco aren't lining up again...

Edit:

Is this right for J2 on the AUX Lamp board? I think that is right, but its a insulation displacement one... and I understand those are bad, and its better to use the straight through ones with a crimp pin. Cant seem to find those on Marco... or is it just the pins that change it from IDC to crimp???
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-18

And are these the right pins and crimper and keys?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-CTW
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CF156K

Thanks for any help, as always!

I think its closer to 50 for just GI...

Edit: JUST KIDDING. Don't forget the back box... rookie mistake ; )

These look Legit, re:what Cactus said:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-09-011-052

Ah, thanks Cactus... getting closer now... I found a few more spots on other schematics that refer to the GI. Trying to figure out which ones are always on and which ones flash in test mode...

But I'm checking J1 and J2 on the Rectifier board, for bad pins. Right?

Any help on why the always on ones are always on? They seem to be getting power from the right place... but I assume they aren't. Any other reason they could be stuck on?

Ok, got a few issues:

My drop target bank seems like its set way too high... when the drops are down they still stick up almost 1/4 inch above the playfield. So there are airballs a-plenty and many lighter shots never even make it to the stand up targets behind. There doesn't seem to be a setting to adjust the height of the drops so do I just remove the whole assembly and add a spacer to make the drops level with the field when down? They aren't meant to be that high are they?

The other issue may be a bit trickier. The Deluxe stand up targets don't play their sound when hit (I assume they are meant to, seems like they do in gameplay vids). They do cause all the other sounds to stop for a second though. This problem is only present when the stand ups are NOT lit... once they are lit they play a sound as normal. All targets score as they should, so I'm guessing its just a problem with that one sound not triggering (or getting to the speaker) on the soundboard. Any one seen this problem? Where do I start? Gonna go stare at the schematics for a while and see what I come up with, any help is greatly appreciated.

Having a low power lighting issue here:

TP4 on the power supply is reading 5.3 (should be at least 6)

All the lights work while playing a game, but they dim out a bit when a flipper fires. In lamp test mode all lights do flash, but very very dimly to where they hardly show through the inserts. Also the Sol expander relay chatters rather than clicking hard on and hard off. I imagine TP4 is just not supplying enough power but I don't know enough about transformers and other power supply components to have much of an idea what to look for besides bad connections... any help?

Hmm... Put up a high score, turned the machine off, now it doesn't start up sometimes. MPU boots fine but sometimes it wont start a game and the displays don't lilght. Seems to work again intermitently after wiggling connectors : (

Anyone have a good resource for either a kit to repin everything or a good guide to understanding all the connector types (I've watched a few vids, but it's alot of info to retain as far as what crimpers and connectors and pins are needed)

Thanks in advance!

Thanks very much, Lovef2k. Big Daddy looks much simpler that trying to find all the connectors individually on Marco...

Test with no J1-4:
TP1 was actually high 7.7 (should be under 7)
TP2 is 150 (I understand that is correct when nothing else is connected? but it should read 230 with the other connectors on, it doesn't read anything when all connectors are in...) This voltage is for the displays, right? Is that a related problem or not, they were working fine with that bad reading before...
Other 3 looked good.

I seem to get correct readings from the Bridge Rectifiers, though I'm new to testing those. I'm testing + to - other lead to either AC, then - to + other lead to either AC, and all 4 readings are 450-600

Where do I put the probes to test voltage on the incoming purple wires? Or do I need a different testing tool?

When I plug the connectors back in the Lamp voltage on TP4 drops back to 5.5... what does that mean? Something bad on one of the lamp boards?

Its starting a game now but some lamps flicker or flash when they shouldn't (some of the deluxe back box lamps strobe, some stay on, and the hold bonus and special lamps start on at the beginning of the game, some GI is being weird) does all that mean the logic is messed up from voltages being wrong???

Also, the speech still works, but most other sounds don't... Is it possible all those problems could be caused by bad pins/connectors?

The last session I played was by far the longest since the machine sat unused for 8 years... I'm thinking connectors got hotter than they have been and started acting up again. Several pins are green goo-ified, but only one looks like it ever got hot enough to burn... Should I go ahead repinning or could the problem still be something else?

Ok, ordered everything to re-pin the whole beast (minus the displays, as there is one that will need replacing eventually). And I solved my other problem... there was a burnt pin #1 on the Lamp Board's J3, which is the ground for the line that the solenoid expander is on. So that was part of why it wasn't getting strong enough voltage to click during lamps test mode. The feature lamp voltage is still a bit low (but they work much better now) I am hoping the other new pins will clear that up, if not I'll start rebuilding the power supply I guess.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Could someone throw up a pic of the jumper wires on a 1981 EBD for the plug on the metal bracket by the one big screw in fuse on the power supply? One of my pins was jury rigged poorly by the previous owner... it came out and I want to make sure it is back in the right spot before I re pin it... Thanks!

Also, why is that plug not in the documentation?

Looks like Ceramics are made for high current (and are probly not fast blow) so that's really not what you want in there for safety...

Just get the correct fuses, they are really cheap, only a few bucks for a 5 pack. You won't regret not messing up your pin or starting a fire. I promise.

I think the 20A is meant to be a fast blow. But I'm not 100%... the only Slow Blow in the Big Daddy fuse kit is the 3/4 amp one, but I can't find anything that is super clear about SB vs FB...