Corpus Christi, TX
ebay.com link: Bally Eight Ball Deluxe pop bumper kit
Everything you need.
(Topic ID: 66114)
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Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981-
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
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Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982
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1 month later
Quoted from practicalsteve:The ball rides on the lower plastic guard which I can't find a replacement for.
1 month later
Quoted from Windsor:Could someone please take a pic of the instruction sheet on the back box? I need to reproduce one for my machine. Thanks in advance.
2015-03-29 22.16.42.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Do you still need this? If so I can get it to you.
I need some pix or maybe a good wiring diagram. I'm OK with schematics but looking at this part of them just gives me a headache. (Doesn't help that I am mostly color blind. I can tell them all apart in the photos, but in real life they all look brown to me. The wife helps.)
This is the left flipper. One brown wire disconnected and all are suspect.
IMG_3644.JPG
IMG_3648.JPG
Right flipper - not much left after the previous coil exploded. Gonna need a lot of help here.
IMG_3649.JPG
Upper flipper. The only one that seemed completely wired. Still suspect.
IMG_3650.JPG
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I should have this part down by now, but I am lazy.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:Even though you didn't take my advice and stick with the linear flipper mechanisms I'll still help you get your flippers wired correctly.
To be fair, I didn't take all of Vid's advice either and settled somewhere in between. LOL Thanks for the well explained solution. This should get me back on track. The game actually fired up and worked (except for the flippers) before I tore it down for cleaning and repair so I suspect this will get me at 100%. Thanks a ton!
11 months later
I have the same version EBD. Black apron with Bally-Midway on it. Gold over red. I'm working on it...
2 weeks later
Quoted from DocGar:I check the CPR site every 6 months or so just to see if they will serve the clamoring masses with another EBD pf run. Am I reading this right? Are they cutting new boards?? And if they are, did I miss out (again)??!! Possible aaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh.....
It closed like 6 hours after I got on it. Phew! Sorry, dude!
3 weeks later
Quoted from kjgolf:Does anyone know of someone who will repair the paint on the original?
http://www.greatpinball.com/services.html
Did once, might again? Not sure. He's pinsider greatwichjohn and he's currently doing new Seawitch and Stargazer P/Fs. I believe they were rehabbing EBDs as well. Email them and ask. All they can say is no.
As for your fuse, does it blow immediately upon power up? When it goes into attract mode or during gameplay? And I have to ask the brain dead question, are you using a 1 amp slo-blow?
Quoted from Zukboy2002:Anybody needing a EBD backglass in nice shape? $100 + shipping
From an '81 or '84? They are NOT the same size.
Quoted from DocGar:Is it bad form to flip the playfield in place and support it on a sheet of stiff ply (the cable harness at the head looks plenty long enough to accommodate this).. Easier access would make wire inspection/ signal tracing a damn sight easier ; )
I had a similar problem with my resurrection EBD project and I would pull the playfield completely out of the cab and set the lower end (carefully) on the floor. Then I could "watch it while it worked." I would start by examining the pinch points of the bottom of the playfield. Anywhere it rests on the inner cab supports make sure thee are no wires hanging out. With mine, it was the diode for the ball drain hole switch. It was touching the p/f hangar and whenever the hangar hit the lockdown device, boom. Grounded out and blew the p/f fuse.
1 week later
Quoted from Gatecrasher:1) Tons of people ask me if it is for sale.
The minute I opened my trailer to unload for TPF this year I had offers coming at me. Simply amazing, isn't it? That machine and my SI are permanent collection machines. When I get my repro from the next CPR run I'll set it up and see how it plays. If it's better than the one I have, I'll keep it and sell the other. The one I have is a little rough, but plays like a dream.
1 month later
Some people replace the contacts. I ain't one of them, but some people do. I'll see if I have the number somewhere handy, but it's a long shot.
1 week later
Quoted from Aurich:I'm still looking for inlane plastics if anyone has a resource. Got the rest of the machine put back together, and for now I'm just using the metal guides lowered with no plastics beneath them. A little janky though.
I replaced my old ones with the ones that came in the last repro set that came out. (And had to sand the @#%$ out of them to make 'em work right.) I don't know what shape they're in, but I could take a look and throw up a pic. If you want 'em I'll give them to you for postage.
The small ball in the channel will cause a tilt if the front of the machine is picked up far enough to roll the ball to the rear of the channel and contact the switch there. If it is stuck, it is either the wrong size or really, really rusty! I believe it is supposed to be a 3/4" ball whereas the playfield ball should be a 1 1/16" ball. I'll see if I can get a pic of the tilt plate for you.
Shawn
Quoted from Pmaino:Thank you. Any idea why a pop bumper would fire instead of the tilt going off?
Is it the tilt plumb bob setting it off or the slam switch? (The large switch in the middle with the weight hanging on the end?)
1 month later
Quoted from eh97ac:Can an LE be convert back to an original? I figure a backbox, lamp panel and BG are needed but is the wiring harness compatible?
I don't see why not, but the harness for the back box interconnect may be too short. Other than that it's all the same.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:However, as you suspected the wire harnesses DO NOT match in wire color coding.
That would be interesting. In doing research for building wire harnesses I compared the harnesses for all of the -17 games and most of the -35 games. With very few exceptions, they are all identical. Bally, like everyone else I suspect, kept it as simple as possible so that they would not need to retrain employees.
Quoted from DocGar:drilled for ? reason
It was likely a routed machine as most were and had a lock bar across the coin door as extra protection against thieving.
1 month later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Tech question...the ball eject coil is firing on the EBD, but the lever not hitting hard enough for ball to make it to the shooter lane. Pushing it manually, it doesn't seem to be binding up at all. Just like the coil not firing strong enough. I've read either the coil fires or doesn't if it's bad. What could cause this?
Make sure all the screws are tight. Ensure the entire assembly is rigid to the play field. Even though it does not appear to be binding, it never hurts to pull the nylon tube and give it and the ram a cleaning with a rag and some 97% alcohol. Also, you may want to (carefully!) check the voltage on the solenoid. Just some thoughts and good luck!
I would start checking all of the test points on the boards for proper voltages. Also at the solenoids.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:- pop bumpers sometimes fire when left flipper hit and ball not near them
Common problem on Bally classic s/s games. Lots of theories, no real solutions.
1 month later
Quoted from MMP:I'm curious, how did you and others deal with the metal pieces attached to the clear plastics on the repro set?
The only way I know of and what most people do is to heat it by inserting the tip of a soldering iron in until the plastic softens and then the little metal spacer can be worked out with needle nose or other type pliers. To put them in the new, place the hole over top of the spacer and heat the same way (carefully!) until you can pop the new plastic down onto it. The spacers were originally crimped onto the plastic rivet style. If anyone has a better way, please do share!
Shawn
Quoted from Atreyu:I don't want to mar this beauty with the crappy plastics I currently have.
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-EBD99
2 weeks later
The quality is excellent, the fit and finish are a little off. I had to drill a hole here and there and do some shaving on the lower lane guide clear ones. But I would buy them again tomorrow. They look fantastic.
1 month later
Quoted from trimoto:nice wish I could find a deal like that ..
Its a print that I sandwiched between two pieces of plexi. It will never break and doesn't look too awful bad.
Shawn
3 weeks later
Need some help here on an EBDLE. I have a guy who is missing the plugs and wires from the rectifier at J3 and J4. I know by schematics what goes there and where it goes to on EBD and the classic versions. The LE version terminates differently and I need to know type and size of plugs, etc. Any info and pics would be great. Thanks!
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I always thought they were all the same as far as the rectifier board goes.
True, but there are also lines to the sound card, one each to the MPU and light board and the GI wires. From the few pictures I could find it looks as though they are all plug to plug.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I must not understand your question then?
The connections at the rectifier is not the problem, its the other ends. The LE has a florescent instead of GI bulbs and the board arrangement is different. I have all the materials to make up the harness I am just not sure what the other ends should look like. On the original and classic versions, most of the wires go to A3J3, 3 go to A5J4, 2 to A8J1, 1 to A4J4 and several wires to the GI and controlled lamps. I make and sell entire Bally lower cab harnesses but I have never seen the inside of an LE cab.
Quoted from emkay:Fit just fine.
I have enough fun putting one(or two) in my Grand Caravan!
1 month later
Quoted from manples:In fact these dark pins are full of a greenish grease... What is that ?
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#So.2C_Just_What_is_this_Green_Slime.3F
Nasty stuff indeed. Repin both sides as soon as you can. The slime will effect the connection which makes it run hotter and builds carbon quicker, etc, etc...
Shawn
Quoted from stashyboy:Open question to the group-
Is it easy to install nvram on an original 1981EBD mpu? If so, anyone have a favorite brand or seller? Still have my original rechargeable battery in the board and would like to eliminate the possibility leakage.
Thanks
As easy as changing out a chip.
Yup. Just snip it off, remove your U-8 chip and plug in the NVRAM. If your boards chip socket looks a little iffy and you have the equipment it is not a bad idea to replace the socket. If it looks okay, don't worry about it. And everybody here was new at some point.
1 week later
Quoted from Lovef2k:I see this board has no U7 6810 chip. What am I missing here?
It is not in actual use at this time. It's part of a setup to finish the layout for my next product - Bally back box interconnect harnesses.
2 weeks later
I'm on it as well. They will email people on the list in the order they got on. As they are sold they contact the next and so on. I watched folks on the Centaur and Fathom list wait weeks before they were notified to pay. And that was at 40 of each. EBD run was 200 I think.
Lower is $75, uppers 150 plus shipping. Will be in my store later this week. Comes with ground braid, new on/off, varistor, etc.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Just paid for my gold. Yeehaa!
Shipped!
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Every game version has a different wire harness configuration.
Yes they do. I have good samples for both the '81 and '84 editions. I am finalizing the jigs and will soon be offering lower cab harnesses, back box interconnect harnesses, a mini one for the controlled and GI lamps on the score board and another for the two outputs on the aux lighting board that go to the controlled lamps on the '81 playfield harness. (On the '84 this was fully integrated into the play field harness.) Also offering Bally coin door harnesses and rectifier board wiring, ground braid, ground wire, varistors, on/off switches, etc, etc, etc. It's a "Build a Bally" shop!
Shawn
Received mine today - huge thanks to Kevin and everyone at CPR for what you do. This thing is sweet. Did they ship with the white star for the rollover or did I miss something?
IMG_9360 (resized).JPG
Quoted from dothedoo:Well then the ink has filled them in.
2 weeks later
So you want to scratch-build an EBD? While most components can be found somewhere between here, epay and all of the fine establishments online, there are a few bits that are getting increasingly hard to come by. It's a daunting task and definitely NOT for the faint of heart. Right off the top, you're going to need one of these -
IMG_9360 (resized).JPG
Got it? Great! Me too! Another essential would be one of these-
IMG_9458 (resized).JPG
And of course after building out the play field you'll need to top it off with a set of these- (Not hard to find... yet!)
IMG_9379 (resized).JPG
Oh, and if it's to be a true-to-form '84 edition you will have to find a set of these-
IMG_9455 (resized).JPG
Now assuming you have assembled a cabinet, legs, head, boards, et cetera ad infinitum, you're gonna need some wiring...
This is the back box interconnect for EBD ver '80.
EBD Upper (resized).jpg
Along with all that is this part that connects power from the rectifier J-3 and 4 to the harness and boards. This was integrated into one piece for the '84 version and is the only real difference between the two along with a couple of wire placement changes in the connector to the back box lights. This is all new construction with trifurcon connectors in molex housings with fresh off the shelf wire and fully tested in my own machine. (No IDC!!) All properly labeled and keyed for accurate placement. Full disclosure, the 23 and 28 place .100 molex connectors are becoming unobtanium so there may be a 19 with a 4 superglued together and 25 with a 3 superglued together. I have managed to purchase some 23s for now but unless you know where to get 28s, this is the way it has to be.
IMG_9433 (resized).JPG
IMG_9426 (resized).JPG
IMG_9427 (resized).JPG
IMG_9432 (resized).JPG
IMG_9435 (resized).JPG
Shawn
Third Coast Pinball
For the lower end, we have this monster. The only difference between this and the '84 version is the method of connecting the harness to inlet power and the service outlet. (Flipper switches and tilt panel items are NOT included.)
lower (resized).jpg
IMG_9441 (resized).JPG
IMG_9438 (resized).JPG
This is how they connected the service outlet in 1980.
IMG_9440 (resized).JPG
And in 1984.
IMG_9439 (resized).JPG
Now since these are being hand built and fully tested I can only knock them out so fast. (And am already 4 orders behind.) Since Pinside Shops doesn't really have a system for sign up now and pay later I would hesitate to put them in there for fear someone will buy one and be mad that it won't show up for a couple of weeks. What I will do is build them in the order I get PMs for them and rest assured Pinside will get their 5% of each one. Pinside has generated a ton of sales for me and I am forever grateful and will gladly forward on the fee.
Shawn
Third Coast Pinball
Also available:
Back box wiring that powers and connects the GI and controlled lamps.
IMG_9460 (resized).JPG
IMG_9463 (resized).JPG
And this pigtail that connects the aux lamp board to the lights on the play field. This is only on the '80 version as the '84 version integrated it. If you have one that's iffy or torn up, you can replace it.
playfieldplugs (resized).jpg
IMG_9452 (resized).JPG
IMG_9451 (resized).JPG
With enough interest, I would probably do a run of play field harnesses, say a minimum of 5 people at probably $250 each.
Shawn
Third Coast Pinball
Quoted from Whysnow:so where is the best place to get star roll-over inserts?
PBR
1 month later
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?
The light boards are connected to the harness via a .156 size plugs. You'll have to identify and gather the right wires to assemble the connectors. Shouldn't be too bad except for the bottom one. You're likely to be short on that one, unless the harness is run basically the same. If that is true, you shouldn't have any trouble. Good luck with it and let us know if we can help.
Shawn
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?
The light boards are connected to the harness via a .156 size plugs. You'll have to identify and gather the right wires to assemble the connectors. Shouldn't be too bad except for the bottom one. You're likely to be short on that one, unless the harness is run basically the same. If that is true, you shouldn't have any trouble. Good luck with it and let us know if we can help.
Shawn
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:but it appears the connectors on the end in the head are not the same as the 81.
There are some minor differences but nothing that can't be bypassed or overcome. As one example, the dedicated solenoid lines that branch off the 81 are placed opposite in the plug of the one in the 84. I made one of these to be able to test an 81 harness in my 84 machine.
Shawn
So, two bulbs in the pictures. The exposed one is the solenoid light, the other is the apron credit light. Both are powered by a double 18ga purple wire. The solenoid lamps other side is blue with a green chaser. The apron credit lamps other side is yellow with a white chaser.
Shawn
2 weeks later
Your spring looks rather.. stretched? Here's mine with target up and target down.
IMG_9606 (resized).JPG
IMG_9605 (resized).JPG
For your rollover, first check that the star portion is complete. That the knob on the bottom has not broken off? Also, check that the screws holding the switch down are tight and not loose. That would be your most likely cause. Also possible, the thing is jammed full of old wax and just needs a little cleaning.
1 month later
1 month later
Quoted from vec-tor:I see you have recut clear plastics.
Natch. This is my $300 EBD project that was highlighted in my "Cowboys VS Aliens" thread. For my next trick, I'll be doing play field harnesses for anyone who is interested.
Shawn
Once disassembled, it only takes minor carpentry skills and a few tools to replicate it from a new piece of plywood. It looks like yours is made of the cheap fiber board that many were made of. The one on my '84 version was completely broken at the hinge and had to be replaced. The only really hard part is prying out the old staples. And be careful with the plastic light shields on the front. They make new ones but they are pricey. Once tou have it stripped just match it to a piece of new and trace out all the holes and edges. With a drill, a cheap jigsaw and a few hours you can make a duplicate piece decently enough. Spray it white, remount all the hardware and voila!
Shawn
2 weeks later
Quoted from stashyboy:Also, does anybody know a good source for the volume pot attached to the coin door? Mine has the typical high pitch bleed through at higher levels.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ct2154-nd
Or try running it back and forth a few times. Often its just corroded wipers.
2 months later
Leave the crimped part alone. Set the "bell" upright on a safe surface. Stick a hot soldering iron down the hole for about ten seconds. Grab the plastic by the sides near the hole and push it down over the bell. With a little pressure it will pop on. Let it cool. Move on with life.
Shawn
The trick also works
Quoted from g94:Smart idea: heat might be the key. I'll try that next time.
I'm already heating the old plastic until it becomes soft and bendable when removing the posts. The old plastic is garbage afterwards, but the posts keep their original shape.
The trick also works for removal. Soldering iron in the hole til plastic gets soft. Grab with soft pliers. Pull out. Not my tricks but they have worked for me for years.
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from PINBALL-LUST:The power transformer is so hacked and chopped that I can't power it on. I did once and it had a current running through it and shocked me when I touched the flipper buttons.
Pictures? Everything is fixable with a little work. There's only one way to wire it up right and obviously yours is ungrounded.
Shawn
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from jmulvenon:What all needs to be removed to successfully get this out?
Remove the three screws for the bottom plate and remove it. Then that corner will slide off of the spacer and you can pull the whole thing out.
Shawn
IMG_0500 (resized).JPG 2 weeks later
Some might call it a flipper pawl or a side lever assembly. It is connected to the flipper plunger/link assembly and held on by a 3/16" c-ring. Here's what each side looks like. If you just need the c-ring they can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Does that help?
Shawn
IMG_0518 (resized).JPGIMG_0519 (resized).JPG
Start looking for a short in your wiring. I doubt its your boards. Somewhere a wire is getting crossed and when that lamp lights up it causes the problem by shorting all the others. My quick and easy guess.
Shawn
1 week later
Quoted from mikester08:do you know where i can get a full assembly like that for the upper flipper?
http://www.pbresource.com/KT-BFLIP03.html
You can find the individual parts by scrolling down.
Shawn
3 months later
PBR has the trim rings for $3 each and a set of three caps is $20. I've probably put several thousand games on mine since I bought them new including several trips to TPF and the Houston arcade show where it got plenty of abuse and they are still like new. Perhaps you have another issue?
Shawn
5 months later
1 month later
I have seen them on every Bally P/F I have owned including the eight currently in house. From Night Rider to EBD.
1 month later
Quoted from Chalkey:Does anybody have a clear plastic ball guide the goes to the left of the inline drops they'd consider selling?
I have a 95% version...
20190707_214349.jpg 5 months later
Quoted from gameroomzone:hi
looking for a ebd 84 backglass
or what would be the best replacement ?
I gave the measurements of my trashed one to CPR some time ago and they say it will come out eventually. Meanwhile I have one I made myself.
1 week later
3 months later
Quoted from lordloss:Going to see how much of a EBD I can build up with all these spare parts.
The only thing really hard to find at any price is the 7 D/T mech. Everything else is findable at somewhat reasonable prices.
Shawn
Quoted from lordloss:I have a few
Nice!
2 weeks later
Quoted from jj44114:I don't think the OEM wire was copper either.
It was always tinned, stranded copper. Copper is the best cheap conductor, stranded takes the stress of the mechanics better than solid as well as keeping the wire flexible and the tinning made it easier to solder.
Fun facts: Silver is actually the best metal for conductivity but it will eventually tarnish. Gold is next in line. Used in space craft wiring and computer chip cores. Never tarnishes.
4 months later
Every EBD I played way back when was either in a C&W bar or an enlistedmen's club. Choked with smoke and nicotine brown.
5 months later
Quoted from Tinnhound:Can anyone please send me a close up picture of connector J3 on the solenoid board? I think that the 3 loose wires that I have belong in places 10,11 and 12 , and I just want to verify. Also, where is the best place to get that 25 pin .100 connector? I would like to get it from Digikey if possible, but I have no idea how to look it up, as I don't exactly know what to call it. Thanks!
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=22-01-2257
3 months later
Quoted from KJL:Does anyone have a source for these. If not what 24 pin connector are you using these days?
The best option right now is to go with a 15 and a 9 connectors. If you need help give me a holler. I'm happy to help.
Shawn
8 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Alan_L:Would rather have the original finish as opposed to piano wire.
Stainless steel tig welding rod gets you the right look. Polishes up nicely.
Quoted from northvibe:Was going to super band the game, did everyone just stick with white pf rubber and yellow on flippers? Any color look good for the game?
Did my '84 in all red Titans, flippers too. Looks great to me!
Shawn
2 weeks later
Quoted from Alan_L:Looking for suggestions as to how proceed.
Once you remove the rail there should be a small amount of nail sticking up. The best way I have removed those is to grab them lightly with a pair of nippers and roll them towards the top of the cabinet. This usually gives enough leverage to ease them out without too much damage. I also use this method to remove old siderail staple remains.
Shawn
3 weeks later
Quoted from Alan_L:but I sure would like to know what it looks like.
Pardon my shameless self promotion.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball/00577-backbox-latch-cam
New problem - was happening occasionally but now every time I turn it on. Game boots normal, but when I go to start a game the one ball drops instead of the ball getting put into the shooter lane. I see those two solenoids are on the same line... perhaps I need to check the bulb under the play field? Or maybe something deeper? New to me but I am sure someone out there has seen it.
Shawn
Quoted from mbeardsley:do NOT replace this bulb with an LED
Yep. Bulb is fine. Looking at the expander. Everything works as it should in solenoid test mode...
Quoted from Lovef2k:Flaky connector?
I've repinned most of the main harnesses. I'll next look at the board pins and plug. I watched the relay during the lamp test and it goes just fine. The CPU and solenoid board are newer versions so I'll check the older stuff first.
Thanks to everyone for the advice and suggestions.
Shawn
Examined the SEB, connector, etc. Found all to be good and solid. Reassembled and game played as advertised. I'll troubleshoot more when the problem returns.
2 weeks later
Quoted from JT-Pinball:Well this guy is about to get some love!
[quoted image]
Looks a lot like the $300 one I bought off the back of a truck at TPF a loooong time ago... Still waiting on CPR to put out an '84 sized backglass.
KevinCPR ??
Quoted from Alan_L:I had to buy a BGResto backglass for my '84.
$350 shipped, 5 months. It looks great, must use LEDs behind backglass.
Thanks! I will look into that!
3 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Lovef2k:That explains it. My manual is a copy and i just noticed the lower right corner shows ebd Ltd. Ugh. The cover is showing 81 version game 1220. I'll be referring to your pic I'm sure. Thanks!
My '84 came with a different manual but has the '81 schematics. Same as Mathazar's.
Quoted from mbeardsley:I haven't tried to post a video here before. I think I have to put it up on YouTube and then point to it from here, correct?
That's how I do it.
1 month later
Quoted from Apex:Ok, went into the switch test and confirmed all switches ( I did not confirm all the drop switches but the first couple in the sequence were correct) are reading correctly, and neither of the two sets of sling shot switches are registering as closed. Wiring looks correct, diodes check good as well so I am kinda stumped. Any other ideas?
If the coils fire in test than that wiring is fine and it is the switch wiring. There are three wires to check.
If the pops fire correctly, Check continuity of the yellow/red wire between the sling switches and any of the pops. If those are good;
Check continuity of the brown wire between the left sling and the "B" rollover switch.
Check continuity of the orange/black wire between the right sling and the "A" rollover lane.
All of the switch wires are daisy chained and if the chain breaks at any point you will have these problems. Good luck!
Shawn
3 weeks later
More often than not resets like that are drops in the voltage to the CPU from the solenoid board. The coin door unplug is a good start. If that changes nothing I would suggest carefully unplugging and then replugging J-3 on the solenoid board. Its the top right corner plug. That is where all the voltages from the rectifier(power board in the bottom) come in to be smoothed and sent on to the CPU and other places. If the crimps are original chances are they are dirty/corroded. Unplugging and replugging will often resolve the issue at least temporarily.
Shawn
2 months later
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:It's a known issue with EBD because the switch harness and solenoid harness are bundled together. I had this issue after restoring my own.
Right? When I make my harnesses I generally group the lights in one and the solenoids and switches together in another. I may have to do EBD in three steps to keep them separate. Or group the switches with the lights. I will be taking orders for EBD harnesses in a couple months after I finish with KISS. Should be fun...
Shawn
1 month later
Here are some pics from inside my '84 EBD. All of the lamps out in your picture are powered by the black/white wire from the pin 8 of A2J1.
IMG_2933 (resized).JPG
The lamps across from the main drop target set as well as the deluxe and ball number lamps are all powered by that wire. Here I outlined the bare wire that carries the voltage to all of the non-board lamps.
cont lamp line (resized).JPG
Finally, the arrows are pointing to where you should get voltage for all of those lamps. Hopefully the one break will resolve all of your issues.
blue arrows (resized).JPG
Shawn
3 months later
Quoted from Lovef2k:The hardest part of this job is drilling the holes. The stainless is really hard, eats drill bits for breakfast LOL.
Dude...
https://www.roperwhitney.com/our-products/no-5-jr-hand-punch-in-kit/
1 week later
Quoted from ROMM:I guess I would just need to connect the braid wire to the socket lead, and the other wire to the top-most lead?
Exactly. Here's a BOPP I redid with those same sockets. Used coated(blue) wire to reduce the chance of a short.
IMG_2263 (resized).JPG 4 weeks later
Quoted from northvibe:Got a ebd to fix for someone…..
[quoted image][quoted image]
Need to post those in the horror thread!!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Cudaman:I can't find another end to it.
Should be coming from the head harness near the insert.
3 weeks later
Quoted from slochar:Yep, I'm sold on the yoppsicles.
Same. They look great in the inserts and I just do 44s for GI. No flicker, no fuss, no muss. And no flaky sockets and bad bulbs.
Shawn
2 weeks later
Most likely it is binding. You need to loosen the two set screws holding the post of the flipper and give it a little breathing space between the collar and the nylon on top. A credit card thickness or so and then retighten. Check by hand if there is still interference.
With the play field up you should be able to look and see if I am right. Move the flipper by hand and look at the bottom where it swivels in the nylon collar just above the play field.
When loosened you should have free and easy movement in both directions. What you want to do is put a folded business card or old credit card between the ring where you loosened the set screws and the nylon collar. The align the flipper and tighten. Once tight ease out whatever you used as a spacer and you should be good to go.
Invest in a t-handled allen wrench. It'll save time and knuckles. Glad its fixed!
I try to tighten one screw just enough to hold it and then align it and then tighten the other. Yeah, its an art and a touch.
1 month later
At this time BGResto is the only option or make your own as I did. (Its a nice print between two lexan sheets.)
Around 2-3 years ago I sent all the necessary measurements to Kevin CPR who said they were going to put it out but nothing ever came of it. If y'all start hounding him maybe they'll do it. Right around the time they were making the switch from silk screening so maybe it just got lost in the shuffle. I really would like a nice one with mirroring.
Shawn
2 months later
Rails and left lane guide installed. Time to light and populate! Big thanks to ibis for taking up the helm on rails. They fit well and look terrific! I will be back for more.
Shawn
PFwRails (resized).jpegQuoted from Dakine747:I'd hate to see one of those crimpers, that big wrench, or anything else accidentally fall on it!
Me too! LOL Just a quick photo op after installing the rails. It normally sits in the rotisserie...
Pinside_forum_7921326_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7921326_1 (resized).jpgQuoted from Gatecrasher:It looks like it could use two of my reproduction parts...[quoted image]
I bought a half dozen from you a few years ago. Still hoarding them for projects like this!
image (resized).jpgQuoted from friscopinball:Looks so good. Is this for your personal collection?
Oh yes. Not selling this one. Also got this to add…
image (resized).jpgThe apron was purchased from a pair of Pinsiders that was reproducing them under license. They are no longer in business and any attempts to resurrect it have failed. Sucks for us.
Shawn
Quoted from phillyfan64:Heavier gauge metal than the original and threads for the screws. I’m not sure if the original had that.
The threads were the icing on the cake. Originals either had a hole for a sheet metal screw or one of those automotive style metal clips like you find on cars.
image0 (resized).jpegimage1 (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
Builders - looking for a good source for the thin sheet metal in the back of the head used as a ground plane for the boards. Or even the cheap foil coated cardboard that Bally/Midway went to in the later years. I have a local place out in the boonies but they are geared for 6X10 foot sheets and cuts are expensive. My other option is to just join the board mounts with the same ground braid I use to ground it all. Anyone? TIA!
Shawn
1 month later
For my current and future EBD harness builds I have separated the harness into two sections - solenoids and GI and then CI and switches. Hopefully it will make a difference. It did happen on my '84 EBD occasionally when I first rebuilt it but now happens only rarely if ever. Resolved itself.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Judoratt:I am looking for recommendations for bulbs colors and whether or not, I need an additional board for the LEDs
I keep the GI in incandescent and do warm white or colored yoppsicles for the controlled lighting. No extra boards required. Gives a classic look and bright inserts without the "in your face" coldness of leds. Just did this on my recent build and it came out beautifully!
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