(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 421 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by radial_head
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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (4 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4202 2 years ago

Just picked up a fun looking project for the summer. I’m sure I will have questions and will ask for pictures and a few missing parts but do have a question where I am stuck now.

I rebuilt the rectifier and now have good voltage. I did not know I needed .084 connectors but luckily those are what Atari vids used so got there without the usual purchase.

Where I’m stuck is the 24 position .062 connector from rectifier to SDB is burned. I now know they appear to be made of unobtanium. Does anyone have a source for these. If not what 24 pin connector are you using these days?

If I get this to fly it will be my 5th save from the complete dead but first Bally behind FP, Flash, HS, and Stars.

Thanks for any insight

Kenny

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1 month later
#4234 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

The best option right now is to go with a 15 and a 9 connectors

Thanks, I only had 12 and 9 position connectors so I went with this type https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=147 because I could keep pin 1 to 24 mapping the same in the end.

G-P-E said they had a slightly higher amp rating per pin .They worked great and use the same size crimper but are bigger. with this repin, I now have the game booting and starting (with no sound and 3 Stern 7 dig displays)

I also have replaced the insert panel, back, bottom, playfield rests and 2 cross braces. Ouch...finally actually moving forward.

I do have 2 question for owners.

I have black over the cream on the sides and back of the head and want to know what the base color is. Are most games all cream color on the head except for the stencil part? Anyone have pics of the back ?

Also I need some of the target pivots that connect the drop target to the reset link for both regular and inline. Anyone sell these or remake them ? 3D printing? PBR doesn't have the regular ones.

Thanks,

Kenny

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1 month later
#4326 2 years ago

For anyone who has replaced the security plate under the game (that keeps people from cutting through the bottom to get the cash box). What air nailer and nails did you use?

Want to know what has the oomph to pierce the metal, 1/4 birch bottom then the 3/4 birch through the end grain without having nails stick out.

Thanks

3 months later
#4447 2 years ago

Finally have my project EED7163 going back together after a lot more cabinet work than I expected. New bottom, back, and neck. But base coats are on and hardtop is installed. Wow that is much easier than a playfield swap.

Anyway I am missing a few key drop target parts and wanted to see if anyone had a source for these.

Parts - Wanted
Wanted! - “Need 3 each of the Yoke and the Pivot stud for the inline drop target for my project Eight Ball Deluxe. Shoot me a PM if you have any or know where to find them”
2022-01-03
Littleton, CO
Wanted
Archived after: 18 days
Viewed: 112 times
Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)
Contributed to Pinside

I am looking for 3 of the yoke and pivot studs for the inline bank and for the 7 bank I need 2 of the links that attaches the drop target to the reset link with a clip ring on each side.

I have emailed marco to see if some of the stuff they have might work but thought I would try here.

PM if you have any leads or know of a work around.

Kenny

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#4448 2 years ago

Also

Quoted from KJL:

Finally have my project EED7163 going back together

I noticed for the first time while working on the 7 bank that the first 2 memory coils (1,9 and 2,10) are 3 terminal coils with 2 diodes CV-31-2000 and are wired different than I have seen before while the other 5 memory coils are the 2 terminal coils CJ-31-2000 I have wired before and are all hooked the same with the power terminals jumped together. Any idea what the first 2 coils do differently that require different wiring ?

In the picture the green coil is a CN-31-2000 with the middle terminal broken off so trying to figure out if I can still use that or just need a new CV prefix coil

Thanks for any clue.

Kenny

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#4453 2 years ago

Thanks to slochar Mathazar and frunch I understand what is going on with and how to wire the 7 bank. Looking at the schematic I also now know I need new outhole and saucer coils as mine are the AN type that look like transplants. Thanks.

Also thanks phillyfan64 for the link, I had missed that somehow. Also found what I think will work for a link on the 7 Bank. Just need the yoke as PBR said they don't have them.

Very productive post.

Kenny

#4458 2 years ago

Thanks for all the help so far on my EBD project . I would like to ask you if my game came with the correct hardware to hold the plastics on the top half of the playfield.

Here is a picture of my game currently with the exact same hardware that it came with. There is only one machine post screw/stud for all that plastic. Looking at the plastics there appears to be an opportunity for 2 more which I have circled in red that are currently machine screws. Here is a link to an example, it could have a screw or a stud base https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5012-02.html

What does you game look like? Where are the machine post studs/screws on your game with a wood screw or machine screw bottom?

Thanks,

Kenny

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1 week later
#4461 2 years ago

Dakine747 thanks for the pics I picked up a few of each type of post to try a few things out also

1 month later
#4486 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Any suggestions on what I can try next?

Looking at the schematic picture you posted they are on opposite sides of the relay so I would look at J5 pin 10 like suggested as they both have that in common. wire color 85 look for continuity from solenoids to the drive circuitry (like already suggested) by vec-tor

And yes, if a relay fails. The side that is connected when the relay is not energized works usually and the other side is toast. In this case its somewhere else if Im reading that schematic picture correctly.

1 week later
#4506 2 years ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Any thoughts or suggestions at this point are appreciated.

Divide and conquer like Clay used to say.

Unplug the J1-J4 connectors on the rectifier to verify that its not on the board

Then plug them in 1 at a time to see if its in one or 2 of those wire bundles. Once you know the bundles then look at wiring diagram to figure out where to look next

1 week later
#4521 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

For a flipper rebuild, PBL has the bally kits, but not the double stack switch for the lower left flipper.

I use this

https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-secondary-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html

1 week later
#4560 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

When I replace rails, I use small stainless screws in place of the spiral nails.

This is a great idea. What nails do you use? Any pictures you can post?

1 month later
#4716 1 year ago
Quoted from Bonk:

Previous owner ripped out the left side of the grounding paper in the backbox,

interesting they changed the ground material from 81 mine is cheap aluminum or very cheap metal of some sort.

1 month later
#4750 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Just wanted to verify with some one else
My rectifier with nothing but the input shows
Tp1 8.05 vdc
Tp2 189 vdc
Tp3 14.5 vdc
Tp4 7.48 vac
Tp5 46 vdc
The post from pinwiki shows all are in spec ish but maybe tp2 was low, however without load not sure it would show as high?
Tp1 5.4 +/-.8
Tp2 230 +/- 27.4
Tp3 11.9 +/- 1.4
Tp4 7.3 +/- .9
Tp5 43 +/- 5.4

I just did this today without any output attached
Tp1 8.3 vdc
Tp2 182.8 vdc
Tp3 14.5 vdc also
Tp4 7.4 vac also
Tp5 46 vdc also

I know for a fact when I rebuilt the HV section I could dial it to anything so I think you are ok

Kenny

1 week later
#4787 1 year ago

Hi EBD experts my project game is playing great after a lot more woodworking than I wanted to do because of water damage.

It has no sound so I have a few EBD specific questions.

LED locks on immediately with good voltages at test points +5.07 -4.86 + 13.7 so here are the EBD questions

It has U4 missing and jumpers match the parts manual. Can I get any flashes without U4?

It has an AY-3-8912 chip in it and is jumpers for it. Is that chip necessary for EBD I have read conflicting posts on RGP?

Finally the U9 socket has been replaced but no chip. Is U9 needed for EBD?

I’ll replace the caps since I have them but don’t have U15 or U17 to replace as suggested in the Bally Repair Procedure manual so will wait to see if I need EPROMs to get started

Thanks

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#4792 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

The LED will flash with a functioning U5 ROM

Thanks Quench your response was very helpful and motivated me to probe for the reason that LED was locked on. Turned out to be an address line was cut when a ROM socket was previously replaced. Now I have 6 flashes which seems too many but will wait for new EPROMs to sort that out.

#4803 1 year ago

Does anyone know of a good source of high quality apron and shooter gauge decals? I would like to avoid classic arcades from past experience if I can. Are there other options?

2 weeks later
#4850 1 year ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Hmm. Considering it.

I sold mine and bought the weebly because of all of the great work by Oliver. While I havent heard of him in years he did great work on 4 classics that I use as a valid working game test when something isnt booting. I like Centaur 27 and EBD 32 but there is also an Embryon 9 and Fathom 5 if you need them.

https://nvram.weebly.com/uploads/5/4/2/5/54255141/09.17.21.combo.pdf

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