(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4270 2 years ago

Maybe I can get some help aswell? Lol. Just picked up an EBD and only getting 6 mpu flashes. Went through it with wiki and getting all the right numbers. All lights stay on and I get a short sound on boot up.

Tried holding the flippers aswell and they kicked in once. All new fuses, I'm not super knowledgeable yet so any help is appreciated. Tks

#4272 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Can you be more specific regarding "getting all the right numbers"? No 7th Flash is typically no +43v present on the MPU....I assume you went thru all of the test points on the SDB PCB and compared them to the values in the Wiki? And all of the test points on the MPU also match the values in the Wiki?
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Seventh_flash

Yeah and I got +43v on pin 18.

#4274 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Are you getting 21.5VDC at test point TP3 on the MPU board? If not, check the 2k ohm resistor at R113 on the MPU board (next to the J4 connector). They sometimes burn out because they run on the edge of their power rating - replace it and R16 with a 0.5 watt, 2k ohm resistors.

Yes I'm getting 21.5.

#4276 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If you can, please post a video showing the full LED flash sequence starting just before you power up.

I can. It's 1 longer one an the beginning then 5 fast flashes.

#4277 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If you can, please post a video showing the full LED flash sequence starting just before you power up.

Quoted from Quench:

If you can, please post a video showing the full LED flash sequence starting just before you power up.

Not letting post an mp4, trying to convert the file

#4279 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

upload to youtube and post the link AFAIK that's the only way to post a video here

#4282 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Missing 7th flash, solenoid voltage
Since you indicated you have it at the test point it's possible your u10 PIA is bad., swap u10/u11 to see if behavior changes.

Ok. Thanks.

#4283 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Missing 7th flash, solenoid voltage
Since you indicated you have it at the test point it's possible your u10 PIA is bad., swap u10/u11 to see if behavior changes.

Can I use the old ones from my old Future Spa mpu?

#4285 2 years ago

Is there a way to test these chips first without removing them, continuity test?

#4287 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Got a logic probe?

No. Wanted to invest in one I guess today is the day. Lol

#4289 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

What voltages do you measure on the MPU board at:
U14 pin 14 =
U14 pin 15 =
U14 pin 10 =
U14 pin 4 =
U10 pin 18 =

So I assume pin one is bottom left?

U14 pin 14 = 21.4
U14 pin 15 = 0
U14 pin 10 = 25.1
U14 pin 4 = 25.1
U10 pin 18 = 25.1

#4290 2 years ago
Quoted from DreB:

So I assume pin one is bottom left?
U14 pin 14 = 21.4
U14 pin 15 = 0
U14 pin 10 = 25.1
U14 pin 4 = 25.1
U10 pin 18 = 25.1

Oups. I counted them wrong. This is right? I started 9 at 16. Its not easy being green. Lol

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#4291 2 years ago

U14 pin 14 = 0
U14 pin 15 = 25.1
U14 pin 10 = 0
U14 pin 4 = 25.1
U10 pin 18 = 25.1

#4295 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Hmm, none of those pins should have 25 volts. Please remeasure them and take note if the meter display is indicating "mV" (milliVolts).

Guess I don't know how to read a meter aswell. Man I'm useless lol. Ill retest, I think I was on DC instead of AC.

#4296 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: if +43 volt is too smooth and filtered the cpu 7th flash will crash.

Still new to this, what's smooth or filtered?

#4298 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

In that case, what's the real voltage at TP3?

Ok. Meter on right setting now. TP3=0

#4300 2 years ago

U14 pin 14 = 0
U14 pin 15 = 10.3
U14 pin 10 = 0
U14 pin 4 = 10.3
U10 pin 18 = 10.3V

#4301 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Find resistor R113 on the MPU board (bottom left corner) next to the J4 connector.
Carefully measure the voltage on both the left and right legs of that resistor.
Report back with the measurements.

2.6 ohms both ways

#4303 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Unless there's been a major failure, these voltages aren't right.

2.6 ohms or 2.6 volts?
Please post a picture of your multi-meter so we can advise how to set it.

You want me to test the voltage across the resistor with the game on? If so it's its 97.6V with the ground on the right. Reversed it's 0

#4304 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Unless there's been a major failure, these voltages aren't right.

I had some damaged diodes, resistors and a burnt out transistor that I've now replaced

IMG_20210901_183950_879 (resized).jpgIMG_20210901_183950_879 (resized).jpg
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#4306 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You can only measure voltage when the game's on
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Set your multi-meter to the 200V DC scale. This sets the meter to read any voltage between zero volts and 200 volts.
The resistance/ohms scales are only to be used to measure resistance when there is NO power.
You need to put the black meter lead on ground somewhere - TP4 on the MPU board is a ground point.
The red meter lead is then placed on the left leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 43 volts.
Then place the red meter lead on the right leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 21.5 volts.

Left of r113 is 100V and right 0 so we got a problem. Lol

IMG_20210905_061936 (resized).jpgIMG_20210905_061936 (resized).jpgIMG_20210905_062026 (resized).jpgIMG_20210905_062026 (resized).jpgIMG_20210905_062030 (resized).jpgIMG_20210905_062030 (resized).jpg
#4307 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You can only measure voltage when the game's on

Yeah I know hehe

#4309 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You've got the meter set to 200V AC voltage, you need to rotate it around to the 200V DC voltage scale. See the picture below:
[quoted image]

Isn't DC for batteries and AC for things plugged in the wall? Ok, I'll switch it.

#4310 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You've got the meter set to 200V AC voltage, you need to rotate it around to the 200V DC voltage scale. See the picture below:
[quoted image]

Left side 44V right 0

#4313 2 years ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

I have a little bit of fear that working inside machines that use voltages that may at least really hurt you might not be a really good idea.
You are really sure what you are doing and how to protect yourself from being hurt?

120V won't kill you, it will however get your attention lol

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#4314 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

That confirms R113 is open circuit. They fail from fatigue because the power through it is borderline on its maximum power dissipation rating. Replace it and its sister at R6 with 2k ohm, 0.5 watt resistors

Yes and no. Long story short, AC from the wall is going into the game but the game uses diode rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.

Ok cool. I'll do that today. Thanks alot. I'll keep you posted. Cheers

#4316 2 years ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

I really like you since you own EBD and Future Spa and have Xenon on your wishlist - you must be a good boy. So I just don't want that you get hurt.

Thank you. I appreciate it.

#4317 2 years ago
Quoted from DreB:

Ok cool. I'll do that today. Thanks alot. I'll keep you posted. Cheers

R113 and R16 resistors were blown. I got game play now. No sound and no display but one step closer. Lol

#4318 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

That makes resistor R113 suspect as being open circuit. They fail from fatigue because the power they dissipate is borderline on its maximum power rating. Replace it and its sister at R16 with 2k ohm, 0.5 watt resistors. Replace the two of them.

Yes and no. Long story short, AC from the wall is going into the game but the game uses diode rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.

R113 and R16 resistors were blown. I got game play now. No sound and no display but one step closer. Lol

#4320 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

It's time to open up a tech support thread for your specific issues.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-early-80s-solid-state

Agreed. I got a few things to check then I'll do that. Tks

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