(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


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#270 8 years ago

I'm in with an '81 vintage EBD that we've had for a good 20 years now. Just stumbled on to the club here. I do have a quick question regarding lamps. Wondering if any of you have swapped in LED's for your GI lighting and how it went. Had NO IDEA there were as many choices for PF LED's as there are. My first guess (broad swipe) would be for one of the 'warm' frosted types but I've never seen them installed. Figured I would pick up a few and just experiment. Thoughts? Prior experience?

#274 8 years ago

Tnx for the info guys. MrB, a sweet EBD you've got there. Do you remember which LED bulbs you used?

gmb

#277 8 years ago

Looks really nice. I think I've swapped out my last 555 incandescent !

#278 8 years ago

chuckwurt, i'm putting together the shopping list here. what bulbs do you have under the pop bumpers (they look great!) ? tnx again..

#280 8 years ago

Tnx again Chuck.. Your machine is nicely decked out. I've been thinking about making the switch to LED's; had no idea everybody beat me there !! As you know, a couple of the EBD bulbs can be a nuisance to get to and wouldn't mind one last change out for life of the machine. I looked at the Alltek Universal light board and looks good for our EBD and Fathom. Think that's a go as well. Thanks again man and cheers...

#281 8 years ago

Mr B, Did you use the same warm frosted bulb throughout ??

#285 8 years ago

Hey dothedoo and indypinhead. Tnx for the info. How's about a quick pic of your EBD ?

#287 8 years ago

very nice job on the xenon. was that a cpr pf swap? it's completely sold me on the LED swap. did these require a new lamp board? i see some folks going with the alltek lamp board or jumping the sockets w/ a small value resistor to prevent flicker. i would get a new board if necessary but if i could make it all work without one so much the better. tnx for sharing man...

#289 8 years ago

So if you swap your Bally lamp board to a Universal Alltek unit or use Hans' adapters, are all EBD lamps covered/ controlled ? Do you need to swap out the auxiliary lamp board as well ?

#292 8 years ago

Got it. I think I'm going to pick up an Alltek board and just get to experimenting. I saw that somebody mentioned that that was half the fun of it and I think I can buy into that...

Have an unrelated question here. Given the pool theme, I thought it would be cool to have a white ball aka cue ball. Has anyone made available a "cue ball" pinball? I've seen brief mentions of such a beastie but no leads on where to come by one. Ideas guys ??

#298 8 years ago

The 8-ball is cool indeed and I swear that I've seen a cue-ball offered by Marco in the past. Can't find it now though. Sent them a quick email on it. Will have to check out that shooter rod CW. Also sounds neat...

#299 8 years ago

Is this the power ball you guys are talking about? Why doesn't anyone like them?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9809

9 months later
#548 7 years ago

I check the CPR site every 6 months or so just to see if they will serve the clamoring masses with another EBD pf run. Am I reading this right? Are they cutting new boards?? And if they are, did I miss out (again)??!! Possible aaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh.....

#551 7 years ago

Well, looks like I'm pulling out the touch-up paints...

#552 7 years ago

You guys can't see it but I'm hissin' and spittin'.... How many did they run??

#555 7 years ago

xTBK, you don't have to offer twice !! I'll take it. I thank you. My aging EBD thanks you. Will PM you...

1 week later
#562 7 years ago

Congrats and welcome !!

#570 7 years ago

Anyone have a handy list of rubber bands needed to fully outfit an EBD?? Thanks...

#572 7 years ago

tnx Chuck. much appreciated !

#578 7 years ago

Hey guys. Got a nasty hum on the EBD audio. Odd thing is that it comes and goes (usually some baseline buzz actually). I'm guessing that it's the PS caps or possibly a bad rectifier. Is this where you guys would start looking ?? Tnx...

#580 7 years ago

tnx BK. The pot is definitely dirty but doesnt seem to source the hum. Will jump on the caps first. Are you aware of any replacement kits? Maybe Steve Young offers something? Tnx again..

#582 7 years ago

Anybody know where to score the big caps (C26,C23) on the EBD voltage regulator module? They are 160 MFD,350V and 11700MFD,20v respectively. Tnx..

1 week later
#605 7 years ago

Hey guys. Couple of questions. The "C" rollover is no longer registering on my machine. Burnished the contacts, checked the gap and tried a jumper across the contacts w/ no joy. Seems like it might be closer to the brain. Ideas? Second, lesser concerning problem is some lifting and flaking of the black paint along one edge of the back glass. Is it cool to carefully remove the flaked portion and repaint? What paint? Thanks as always...

#608 7 years ago

Tnx TBK but no joy. Reseated J2 (actually all of the molex connectors) and still not picking up the hit. Has been working fine and the "B,C,D" all functional. There's a diode on the "C" playfield assembly. Any chance that was blown? (I thought they were fairly hardy components). Other ideas? Thanks as always..

#609 7 years ago

Tnx for the idea dtd. There is a drop target, the "E" target and the L thumper on that chain and they're all functional. Hope this isn't one of those hair-pullers..

#611 7 years ago

Tnx dtd. You were spot on! Broken wire in the door cable. Fixed...

#619 7 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Even though those switches are functional there still could be a broken wire. The wires are daisy-chained from switch to switch. Let's say the left bumper has a broken wire. The bumper could still work, but the next switch in the chain won't.
Since only one switch isn't working it could be the first switch in the row or the last switch in the column, relative to signal flow. Unfortunately, the schematics don't necessarily show the switches "in order" in their rows and columns, so you'll have to check each switch in the row and each switch in the column for which the "C" is the intersection.
Looking at the schematics, the row switches are the second "E" and left bumper (as you stated), as well as the 6 ball/14 ball drop target and credit button. The column switches are "A", "B", "D", all three coin slots and the slam tilt.
I would inspect the coin door first as that is the most likely place to have a broken wire.

I spoke too soon. While there was a loose wire in the cab door, it did not link to the "C" rollover. Did self-test and it shows a 'stuck' contact at the 4x drop target. Seems like a separate issue. Will tackle that and still looking for ideas on trouble-shooting the "C"... Ideas boys?

#622 7 years ago

Will do. Difficult to follow wires in cables and even more so at the head of the PF. Just not a lot of space to poke your noggin. Is it bad form to flip the playfield in place and support it on a sheet of stiff ply (the cable harness at the head looks plenty long enough to accommodate this).. Easier access would make wire inspection/ signal tracing a damn sight easier ; )

#627 7 years ago

Will try jumping the diode first. If no joy there, will explore these good ideas on fully accessing the PF underguts and commence to tracing wires. Thanks for all of the pointers...

2 months later
#769 7 years ago

Hey guys. I'm taking a few minutes to re-rubber the EBD and am finding a few of the posts to be pretty wobbly once the old rings are removed. What's the best practice approach to fixing these? We used to fill the holes w/ plastic wood or sawdust/ Elmer's combo then redrill. Any better ways ? Tnx..

2 weeks later
#814 7 years ago

Well guys, the EBD has finally developed a nasty problem that I believe has to be localized to the power supply. I get a nasty 60 Hz hum on the audio that waxes/ wanes. Every few minutes, it crescendos and the machine resets. Not sure where to start. Have some replacements for the big caps in the PS and will swap those out. Any other ideas?

1 week later
#829 7 years ago
Quoted from mbd:

I'm pretty sure (I am away from home so cannot check schematics at the moment) that the squawk & talk board gets its power for the sound from the GI supply (AC) so you'll need to replace (at least) the bigger caps on the squawk & talk as well. But you should definitely upgrade the PS by replacing old caps etc and verify that the AC ripple on the 5VDC supply is nominal.

I replaced the 2 big caps on the PS and that resolved the hum completely. Tnx..

#830 7 years ago

Finally getting around to rebuilding the upper flip mech on our EBD as it's grown steadily weaker over the years. Wow, ton of wear on the pawl/ nylon bushing. Bit surprised the thing was working at all. I don't need a rebuild kit as most of the parts have found their way into the junk box over the years. That said, was looking at the parts lists for the more popular kits available and they all include a spring washer. I have no such thing on any of the flips in our current roster (EBD, Fathom, Centaur). What the hey? Where does it install? What does it do? Do I really need one and why? Tnx as always...

#832 7 years ago

Tnx M. There is certainly plenty of slop in this mech and at this stage of wear I'm sure its multi-factorial including lack of a spring washer. I can see where this would definitely tighten things up for the better. Ordering 'em now... Tnx again...

#833 7 years ago

For years we just played the hell out of our games and enjoyed them. Nothing ever seemed to malfunction. These puppies getting old now I guess and seems like I'm finding something that needs tending daily.. The black paint on the lowest aspect of the backglass is flaking off in alarmingly large chunks (Antartica, I feel your pain..) Seems like I've seen something about sealing the glass with something called Triple Thick. Thing is, I'd like to fill the missing black back in before sealing. Can this be done? How to? Brush on acrylic, careful spray after masking, other ?? Tnx as always guys..

#835 7 years ago

Just finished my first ever flipper rebuild. WOW !! Gonna have to learn how to play this *new* game all over again. Thanks maestro for cluing me into the spring washers. Definitely locks the coil down. Now onto that Triple-Thick...

3 weeks later
#842 7 years ago

Couple of questions guys. Anybody powder-coated their legs? Approximate cost? If not powder-coat, does the old standy-by Rustoleum do a decent job? Tnx as always..

#845 7 years ago

Thanks for the ideas guys. Who knows how many times these tired legs have been taken off/ put on. Accumulated their share of dings. The local custom coating shop will sandblast and powder coat for $12 per and that will virtually eliminate the issue (forever..) Next question: would like to polish the leg attachment bolts. Have a tumbler but need suggestions on media. Type and where to procure? Tnx as always...

#847 7 years ago

Thanks. Found walnut shell grit at the pet store (reptile bedding of all things). Gonna give that a go w/ bit of the Turtle Wax metal polish. It's definitely a low cost solution (if it works). Will report the results here..

#848 7 years ago

Reporting back. The inexpensive walnut grit (reptile bedding) works great. Ended up putting 2 cups along w/ 5cc or so of Brasso and the hardware has a mirror surface after 6 hours. Sometimes the cheap solution plays..

1 week later
#857 7 years ago

Any tips on polishing up the coin door? Our EBD door has a few light scratches but that's about it. Will a cotton buffing wheel on the workbench grinder do the trick? Which polishing compounds seem to work the best? Tnx as always...

#860 7 years ago

Tnx TBK. Looks like there are several Flitz products available. To which are you referring?

#862 7 years ago

Tnx as always TBK. WAY COOL 8-ball plunger knob. Gotta have one. Where did you come by that gem?

#876 7 years ago

The cabinet front on our EBD has taken its share of abuse over the years w/ assorted holes (drilled for ? reason), dings and gouges. Have removed hardware, filled divots and sanded. Now looking to repaint and could use some direction. Spray vs brush? Paint that closely matches the EBD black? Tnx as always..

#879 7 years ago

Tnx TBK. Will shoot a pic or two after work today. Right now, just looking to spiff up the front-most portion of the cabinet. The graphics on the cabinet sides are in good shape with only the occasional small ding (1-2mm). The Flitz works well; the door positively shines! Ordering the custom shooter rod today as well. Went with powder coating the legs; they look fairly bullet proof now. I don't think this particular machine has looked this good for > decade..

#880 7 years ago

Here's the EBD front before some TLC. A number of scrapes, gouges, random holes etc. Fully striped down now and took the opportunity to shine up the coin door and surrounding trim. The black here certainly does not look factory and is sort of a flat - semigloss. The side graphics have plenty of black that look more glossy. Will look at both the semi and full gloss enamels then. Tnx again for the much valued help..

EBD front before (resized).jpgEBD front before (resized).jpg

#882 7 years ago

Tnx Chris. Moving right along w/ the project. Paint tonite. Interesting thing happening here. I literally held off on any refurb/resto work for years thinking that undertaking it w/ good outcome was somehow beyond me. Now I see that a bit of elbow grease (and tapping the collective experience here) can in fact yield a much better than expected outcome. I'm finding that I'm looking to dive in ever deeper. That said, the T molding on the front of my machine has obviously fended off a number of traumas. Is that material hard to come by, remove, replace?? Tnx again as always...

#885 7 years ago

Tnx HPR! Any hints and tips on the removal?

#887 7 years ago

Yep, you were right. Started by lifting one edge w/ flat screwdriver and slowly pulled w/ no mishaps. Nice work on the graphic. Use a stencil or are you free-handing?

#894 7 years ago

Used a Rustoleum semi-gloss black for the front and it looks good. Unfortunately, seems to scratch VERY easily. Assuming that a clear coat will help protect here. Got a can of Triple Thick hanging around. Would work here?

front after paint (resized).jpgfront after paint (resized).jpg

#897 7 years ago

Tnx TBK. I think the Matte finish will go well here. Gettin' close.. (we miss playing..)

#917 7 years ago

VERY nice indeed..

1 month later
#957 7 years ago

Need to replace the plastic ball guides. Is there anyone offering plastic repro's or better still metal ?? Tnx guys..

plastic ball guide (resized).jpgplastic ball guide (resized).jpg

#960 7 years ago

Cliffy's offers Williams spec ball return guides but I don't see Bally (unless I'm just missing them). Is anyone offering the laser-cut lexan guides commercially??

#974 7 years ago

Getting ready to tackle the paint flaking on the lower edge of our backglass. Wondering if I can just triple-thick the problem areas or do I need to do the entire backglass (necessitating masking) ? Also looking for the hints/ tips on repainting that area that has flaked. It is entirely black within the affected area so will need black of course but wondering about a silver overcoat ? Tnx as always..

1 week later
#1015 7 years ago

Just replaced cracked plastic lane guides with metal replacements. They look fine and don't really change the lighting that much (bulbs positioned beneath the plastics did trans-illuminate somewhat) but I'm finding that they change play. Didn't see this coming... Specifically, balls entering the lane from either direction move quite briskly along the metal rail. The plastic must give a bit and de-accelerate the ball. All that said, I'd like to switch back to plastic. Is anyone offering a poly replacement?

3 years later
#2623 4 years ago

Well gents, I'm down in the workshop staring at a guts-up '84 EBD (fully functioning) on sawhorses. Next to it is a sweet unpopulated repro PF on a rotisserie. Here's the rub: I have not a clue as to how to carry out this swap (but I am determined and under no time constraint). I've been looking (and photographing) the undercarriage of the old '84 and it is really a marvel. Simple and complex all at once. How many games been banged out on this thing. I know there must be a half-dozen 'accepted' practices for doing the swap and I'm equally certain that there's roughly 9 zillion ways for me to screw this up (suppose some of that is inevitable and will chalk it up as part of the education). Can anybody point me to a guide that will get me firmly on the path?? Tnx in advance..

pf x 2 (resized).jpgpf x 2 (resized).jpg
#2627 4 years ago

Thank you Vec-tor ! I am looking forward to this and the timing is right (my work largely shut down yesterday due to viral containment).

Gary

#2631 4 years ago

Anybody have a recommendation for digital calipers? Looks like a decent one could be an asset on final positioning of posts, screws, etc. Tnx !

#2654 4 years ago

I'm rebuilding the R flipper prior to the pf swap and noticed that the EOS switch stack is more complicated than the L. Anyone know who is selling that particular stack?

1 week later
#2721 3 years ago

Cleaning up the flipper mechs prior to transplant. The shaft ends (where the pawl set screw bites) are pretty gnarly. Is this acceptable? Prior to pulling the pf, the flips were working fine (without any obvious slop). If a replacement is in order, who has EBD flippers? Tnx!

L flip bat and shaft (resized).jpgL flip bat and shaft (resized).jpgL flip bat and shaft2 (resized).jpgL flip bat and shaft2 (resized).jpg
#2725 3 years ago

Tnx guys. Nice work on the ongoing swap. I've been contemplating washing down the harness but was concerned about just that possible outcome (lost labels). Would you do it again?

#2731 3 years ago

Got real rookie question. Pull and re-use T-nuts or replace? I imagine these are fairly inexpensive. If replace, how many to fully populate an EBD pf? Tnx..

#2737 3 years ago

Tnx Lovef2k and vec-tor ! Will try to (carefully) remove the old T-nuts for re-use. Are the pre-drilled holes in the CPR pf too small? Any benefit in up-sizing them slightly? Never would have thought to match the set-screw locations - tnx !!

#2740 3 years ago

Tnx again guys. I had heard that the dimples were a 'starting place' at best and will certainly adjust to function instead. I had not heard anything about misplaced T-nut holes though and that is pretty disconcerting. Do you guys recall any in particular that needed to be abandoned/redrilled?? I am really starting to see the utility of the rotisserie here. Flipping back and forth to assess/ measure hole placement, etc. Yep, definitely not plug and play here. I have a late run repro so am 'hoping' that appropriate tweaks were applied. The fun continues !

#2745 3 years ago

Is this the mini-post that you're talking about. Does look like it's about 1/4" or so in-board of where it should be. What are guys doing for this? New hole obviously. Need to fill the old? Doesn't look like it would really be in the ball path. I'm guessing that drilling thru the clear isn't as easy as I'd like it to be. What's the technique for not fracturing the clearcoat? Tnx again !!

old inline minipost (resized).jpgold inline minipost (resized).jpgrepro (resized).jpgrepro (resized).jpg
#2747 3 years ago

Thank you Lovef2k! Seems like there are half million potential gotchas out there. It's coming along though. Rewired the flips tonite and adding connectors. Little bit each day.. Have great week!!

#2763 3 years ago

Nice work treborlicec ! How did you do the low-relief countersink? Vec-tor, are you saying that a 10-32 T-nut is needed there??

#2768 3 years ago

Will give the bayonets a look. Thought long and hard on the LED's. I know some guys love 'em and thats good but for me the warm glow of the incandescent is just part of the 'pinball look'. Did you replace the ground braid with the swap? I'm wondering if I can't bring the old ground with the harness and retack it into place.

#2772 3 years ago

I keep forgetting that the machine is almost 40 yrs old! I've seen some replace the wire w/ 1/8" or 1/4" braid which sort of looks like overkill. That said, 1/8" tinned braid is inexpensive at Walmart (of all places).

#2774 3 years ago

I was referring to the pf wire. It is thin gauge and I could easily see that frayed/crimped/cut during a transplant. Was thinking about stapling in some 1/8" tinned braid unless there's a good reason to avoid..

#2781 3 years ago

TU jj4... !! PBR has it for 20 cents per foot less shipping. 25 ft has to be enough for a single pf, yes ?

#2797 3 years ago

At this point, I'm thinking that this EBD swap will be my one and only (maybe everybody says this?). That said, I don't really want to invest in a compressor + air stapler. Anybody have experience/can recommend a lesser expensive manual stapler? Upholstery stapler perhaps? Any thoughts appreciated..

#2799 3 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I've been perfectly happy with my manual Arrow staple gun (about $25) but granted I've not done an entire playfield swap with it. My usage so far has just been with securing down individual replaced wire and ground braids on the playfield and in the cabinet. Perhaps my tune would change if I find myself doing an entire playfield swap. It's hard enough for me as it is to do a hard top install, so I don't see that happening.

Tnx for the recommendation. I've used those and can recall that the squeeze pressure was not inconsequential. I could see where a staple or two would be an easy feat but agree that trying to do 50-60 in a go would be a bite. Just discovered electric staplers and looks like $50-60 could acquire a decent one (probably even find other uses for it - isn't that the way it goes - on getting a new hammer everything looks like a nail). Tnx again!

#2811 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

My first swap on a CPR xenon with a manual staple gun didn't work for me. The wood is way harder that original playfields. Trust me you want a 22 gauge upholstery staple and air.

All I can find are 1/4" crown staplers and I seem to recall the staples being somewhat wider than that. Which stapler are you using?

#2816 3 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Even if you only do one pf swap the Unicatch is worth the purchase. Makes laying down the braid a simple task. Also, if you're going to add/redo all the "Tech" sheets (pic below) in the back box the Unicatch is great for this as well.[quoted image]

Cleanest back box I've ever seen. Nicely done! I'm sold on the Unicatch. Picking one up at the local Walmart.

#2868 3 years ago

Is anyone manufacturing the plastic (lower level) inlane guides ??

1 week later
#2919 3 years ago

Swapping the slingshots over to the new board and taking the opportunity to give them a quick clean and tune. Never knew that the coil stops were different from those in the flips. Pinball Life has this stop listed (a-613-67) and it *looks* about the right size. They don't spec the size however. Anybody know if this is right one?

A-163-67_300x252 (resized).jpgA-163-67_300x252 (resized).jpg
#2921 3 years ago

Tnx V.. That's more than I thought anyone knew about the coil stop. So, unless I've just missed it, the "613-67" as listed and imaged should work for the slingshots. Thanks again..

#2922 3 years ago

Mapping out the first mech move here. Looking at the slingshots and noticed there are no guidance dimples for placement of the screws. How are you guys ensuring correct placement. I've got a ton of pics but I'm thinking that its not quite enough to ballpark the placement similar to old pf pics. Tracing paper indexing the mounting holes off of the routed slot? Pull out the calipers?

#2924 3 years ago

Tnx V. I'm seeing the path! I like the tape & punch idea. Will do...

#2938 3 years ago

Attaching molex connectors to the power leads on the big mechs prior to pulling them from the board. On finishing up the inline drop target connector saw that several of the small gauge wires to lamps under the mech are frayed down to bare wire. How are you guys tackling this ? Splice ? Tape ? Plasti-dip ? Other ?

frayed lamp leads (resized).jpgfrayed lamp leads (resized).jpg
#2941 3 years ago

Heat shrink ! Didn't think of that. Yep, many (?most, I haven't really surveyed the entire board) of the lamp sockets have small signal diodes. No idea why...

#2943 3 years ago

Starting to pre-game the pop bumper pulls. Was contemplating molexing the solenoid power leads or maybe the power + signal lines but looked like I'd have to seriously jockey the harness to get enough slack on some of those lines. Wondering if I can leave the harness attached and remove the bumpers *in toto* and seal them individually in plastic bags. Seems cumbersome but no need to remove/replace/molex the various leads. Bad idea?

2 weeks later
#3036 3 years ago

Great Plains is out of the 12 conductor molex connector I need. Anybody found an alternate supplier (preferably one that specifically caters to the needs of pinheads) ??

#3040 3 years ago

Specifically, I'm looking for one each of these guys (0.093"). Unfortunately, Pinball Life only carries one side of the pair (the receptacle I believe). I got a pretty deep "misc box" of bits and pieces but of course no 12-connector molex... Other non-pin sources you guys may use? Ronnie ! Good to see that I'm not the only pin obsessed guy in town.

12 pin connector (resized).jpg12 pin connector (resized).jpg12 pin receptacle (resized).jpg12 pin receptacle (resized).jpg
#3044 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I don't recall any .093 connectors on the 81 version ebd. which version do you have? I may have both. 093 and 062 12 position sockets. I'll let you know.

I have an '84 and there aren't any native molex connectors. I've just about finished putting them on most of the other mechs so as to more simply (for me anyway) transfer them from the old board to the new. May make repairs/tune-ups a bit easier in the future being able to do things on the bench. I need a 12 pin for the signal lines (10) on the in-line drop target. Then all the big mechs will be off the board...

#3049 3 years ago

Tnx ts4z. Great Plains got in touch and have restocked if anyone has a similar need.

#3050 3 years ago

Getting ready to pull the pop bumpers. Is there a guide on removal ? Any big-time gotcha's ??

#3069 3 years ago

Getting close to moving the harness over to the new pf. What's the call on moving the bulbs? Looks easiest just to keep them all attached to the harness and slide them all over in one shot. Any reason(s) not to do that?? Tnx..

1 week later
#3070 3 years ago

These are the screws that hold down the plastics on my EBD. They're about 1/2" or so in length and have this sort of flattened pan head. I've seen them on other machines so I know they're out there. Thing is, I cannot for the life of me find 'em. Anyone have any idea who might have these in stock? I only need one but would certainly pick up a handful for future projects. Tnx!!

screw1 (resized).jpgscrew1 (resized).jpgscrew2 (resized).jpgscrew2 (resized).jpg
#3076 3 years ago

Tnx guys, Marco carries #6 Truss heads. The old boards a mess but am enjoying the process..

#3077 3 years ago

Replacing all 3 pop bumper bodies (yellowed, cracked w/ missing clips). Obviously have to transfer the bulb + contacts. They seem pretty well wedged in. What's the approach on these? Just firm pressure from the contacts side in?

pop1 (resized).jpgpop1 (resized).jpgpop2 (resized).jpgpop2 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#3088 3 years ago

Very nice !

#3089 3 years ago

About to toss the topside hardware (screws, bolts) in to the polisher. I've used the walnut media in the past w/ a bit of Flitz. What's the collective experience on how long to tumble?

#3093 3 years ago

I'm trying to carefully note which fasteners go where as I'm depopulating the front side. I noticed that there was never a fastener in the marked hole on our game. What belongs there? I'm guessing a #6 wood screw into a star post? Tnx..

missing fastener (resized).jpgmissing fastener (resized).jpg
#3095 3 years ago

Tnx Quench ! Didn't know those pics were up there. Answers that question..

#3099 3 years ago

Here's a little twist that I haven't seen publicized to date. There's a mini-post just to the right of the upper ball guides. On my '84 machine, it is a non-thru-hole screw type (with no sign of damage at/about the area). On surveying the same area on the CPR board, this appears to be a thru-hole for a T-nut. Anyone else seen this? How did you resolve it? Imagine a # 6 or 8 threaded mini-post does the job but wanted to hear what others have done. Tnx..

mini-post new pf 5 (resized).jpgmini-post new pf 5 (resized).jpgmini-post old pf 3 (resized).jpgmini-post old pf 3 (resized).jpgmini-post old pf 4 (resized).jpgmini-post old pf 4 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#3129 3 years ago

I'm in need of a couple (2) OEM T-nuts. Anyone have a stash ?

3 weeks later
#3214 3 years ago

I'm about ready to start installing plastics and am wondering if others have encountered the same potential problem that I am. I have a CPR repro and am sizing up the Bank Shot plastics. Small diameter thru-holes are drilled and I'm finding that at least one seems several millimeters off. It's impossible to know exactly but just sighting from the top down thru the plastics suggests this. Anyone have to move any of those holes?? Tnx..

1 week later
#3259 3 years ago

Time to finally resolve the bankshot mini-post placement. I spent an afternoon going back and forth between the old and new pf and discovered that there is enough mis-registration of the graphics to make it difficult to gauge placement of the post. So pulled out the calipers and some translucent sheetstock and went back and forth another bunch of times. Does this tentative placement look anywhere near where you guys have planted the post ?? As with so many things in this life, the first penetration seems to be the most difficult ; )

minipost1 (resized).jpgminipost1 (resized).jpgminipost2 (resized).jpgminipost2 (resized).jpg
#3261 3 years ago

Tnx. Right now that post is just dry-placed (no hole). When fully sunk, the top of the post is a few mm below that clear plastic. Hows the R-L position look to you?

#3269 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

L and R looked good to me, usually centered between the 2 lanes. I would move it forward about an 1/8 of an inch.

Tnx! I nudged it forward 1/8" and it's looking good. Gonna bite the bullet tomorrow and commence to drilling. A little nod to the pinball gods...

gb

1 week later
#3285 3 years ago

Starting the topside teardown here. I imagine just about every apron takes some wear over time. What are you guys dong with this? Leave it be, paint, selectively powder-coat ? Tnx ! Passing the half-way point on thw swap !!

apron (resized).jpgapron (resized).jpg
#3305 3 years ago

Carefully removing the siderails and they could use a little buff-up. Gonna do a light sanding then semi-glass black from a rattle can unless the collective wisdom suggests a different route. Ideas ??

#3307 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If you like that look, go for it. But it may not go well with the lock down bar IMO.

It actually looks like a semi-gloss black right now. Was that not typical of machines off the line?

#3316 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

No they are a low grade stainless steel with graining. When you say aide rail are you referring to the metal trim on the cabs sides where your flipper buttons are? Or the wood border trim on pf?

I meant the wooden boards that border the playfield. Sorry for the confusion..

1 week later
#3321 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Every EBD I played way back when was either in a C&W bar or an enlistedmen's club. Choked with smoke and nicotine brown.

I used to think this was the explanation for the cream yellow tint. Certainly plausible as many/most of these machines saw smokey environs. That said, I'm tearing down my machine for a swap and just removed the wooden siderails. The color underneath is most distinctly a cream yellow and definitely not the bright white on the new CPR repro. As others have postulated, I think it's likely that both the yellow and white variants exist in the wild. For once, everybody's right...

3 weeks later
#3357 3 years ago

Any idea where these are can be had? Marco has a 3" non-barbed (same size as -27 part) but no 2 1/2" in stock. Really don't want to make 'em. Pretty sure I'd use 6' of stock and turn-out some sad bits. Ideas?

wire guides (resized).jpgwire guides (resized).jpg
#3360 3 years ago

There are two mini-posts positioned on either end of the horseshoe drops. On teardown, I see that our '84 machine had #10 woodscrew posts in both positions. There was no gross evidence of significant damage eg, no cracks, fissure, loosening etc. and I don't think these are positioned to take the big hits the post near the in-line drops takes. What's the tribal knowledge on this? Stay w/ the screw posts or switch to #8 threaded studs? Thanks !!

minipost (resized).jpgminipost (resized).jpgpf minposts (resized).jpgpf minposts (resized).jpg
#3364 3 years ago

Tnx guys ! All good suggestions. The flanges on replacement #8 T-nuts offered by Marco are small enough to fit nicely so I've decided to use them at both spots. I sank a #10 minipost on the left w/ a recessed nut and it looks like I could hang on it if I needed too. I'm trying to bullet-proof this thing w/o going too far overboard. The pf is mostly repopulated now so the T-nuts can't be hammered in. I found that the mondo-vise that I used to sink the large T-nuts at the head of the board just fits inside the Horseshoe target opening and should make for easy work of it. Will let all know how it goes - particularly if its a flounder. Send luck..

#3365 3 years ago

Got those 2 #8 posts in. Needed to countersink the T-nuts. Turned out nice and the posts are rock stable. Recommend it..

Geaza1p-1598 (resized).jpgGeaza1p-1598 (resized).jpgypOXz1p-1594 (resized).jpgypOXz1p-1594 (resized).jpg
#3373 3 years ago

About to install the outlane ball guides. Anybody know the final height on these? A 3/32" drill bit is same size (exactly) as the wire stock. Best to undersize the holes or go w/ 3/32". Tnx guys..

outlane ball guide (resized).jpgoutlane ball guide (resized).jpg
#3378 3 years ago

Thank ya boys ! I'm on it..

#3382 3 years ago

I carefully used a metal file to put a rough point on each end of the guide stock. Hole was 5/64" drilled thru. Pre-marked the desired depth on the stock w/ fine-point Sharpie and used small dead-blow to tap it home. Not bad at all and feels like it isn't going to migrate. I think the file did the heavy lifting on this one.

lane (resized).jpglane (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#3433 3 years ago
corner pocket1 (resized).jpgcorner pocket1 (resized).jpgcorner pocket2 (resized).jpgcorner pocket2 (resized).jpg
#3434 3 years ago

I'm getting ready to mount the bigger up-field plastics and am finding that some of the screw holes are well aligned and a couple aren't (natch). On the Corner Pocket plastic all but the hole closest to the lower mini-post are good but that hole is off by 2-2.5mm (the white circle is where an aligned hole would go). These plastics are rigid so I'm thinking that any mis-alignment IS critical and I can't really fudge the holes much as they hold the metal 'bell' mounts. Am I over-sweating this? It would easy enough to drill a new hole for that screw but I have no experience drilling that close to a 'factory' thru-hole. Drill the new hole? Fill the old one first? Don't sweat this and grab a cold one? What say guys??

#3437 3 years ago

Tnx, sounds like the way to go. It's my first swap and it's actually going well. Don't wanna screw up now!

2 weeks later
#3456 3 years ago

I'm sure this is something that others have seen. Got repro plastics for the outlane a while back and they looked fine on cursory inspection. Now that I've installed them, a significant problem is obvious. The repro has the wrong shape and once the wooden rail is in place there will be a very tight squeeze on the outboard lane. I've used a grinding wheel on a dremel to trim other plastics but would much rather get a proper fitting repro. Anybody know if these are available anywhere?? I've had metal repro's in this position on other EBD's but they block the light and aren't stock. Ideas?

outlane plastics (resized).jpgoutlane plastics (resized).jpg
#3466 3 years ago

Glad you got back to me on this Philly.. Do you have a measured distance between the sidewall and the metal ball guide ? Those rails are nice and I believe you said that you had those made. Know if replacements are available anywhere (mine are fairly well beat up) ?

#3468 3 years ago

Philly, you just made my day ! Tnx ! As these are more or less custom, I'm thinking Taylor could likely plane these rails as necessary. How far back would you come ? A 1/16" or more ?? Tnx again..

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