(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by northvibe
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#4901 29 days ago

Which coil stops does ebd use?
The plating on my lower right is coming off and magnetizing the plunger

A-613-67
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-bally-coil-stop.html

Or

A-613-127
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-coil-stop-a-613-127.html

Edit:
I got home from the route location and it looks like I have a set of the black coil stops.

#4902 29 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Which coil stops does ebd use?
The plating on my lower right is coming off and magnetizing the plunger
A-613-67
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-bally-coil-stop.html
Or
A-613-127
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-coil-stop-a-613-127.html
Edit:
I got home from the route location and it looks like I have a set of the black coil stops.

If the screws for the coil stop are 8-32 ,then it's the A-613-115. If 10-32, it's the A-613-127.

#4903 29 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If the screws for the coil stop are 8-32 ,then it's the A-613-115. If 10-32, it's the A-613-127.

Hmm, they were black philips. I think I may have one of the silver ones, I’ll bring a few and try. Thanks!

1 week later
#4904 17 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Hmm, they were black philips. I think I may have one of the silver ones, I’ll bring a few and try. Thanks!

I had some black ones that fit! BUT weird, I still have an issue.

My lower right flipper sticks up. I can flip, have it hold and turn the game off, flipper stays up. If you flip the left flipper while the right is up, it will drop, like the shake of the flipper is enough to unstick. I manually move the flipper via the link or the flipper and it works great. It feels like the plunger is being magnetized to the coilstop. I swapped coil stops and plungers with a different flipper, no change, lower right still sticks up. I have a new coil on order. Any other ideas?

#4905 16 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I had some black ones that fit! BUT weird, I still have an issue.
My lower right flipper sticks up. I can flip, have it hold and turn the game off, flipper stays up. If you flip the left flipper while the right is up, it will drop, like the shake of the flipper is enough to unstick. I manually move the flipper via the link or the flipper and it works great. It feels like the plunger is being magnetized to the coilstop. I swapped coil stops and plungers with a different flipper, no change, lower right still sticks up. I have a new coil on order. Any other ideas?

Coil stop angle...Flipper bracket bow....

#4906 16 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I can flip, have it hold and turn the game off, flipper stays up. If you flip the left flipper while the right is up, it will drop, like the shake of the flipper is enough to unstick. I manually move the flipper via the link or the flipper and it works great. It feels like the plunger is being magnetized to the coilstop. I swapped coil stops and plungers with a different flipper, no change, lower right still sticks up. I have a new coil on order. Any other ideas?

I know this says "Stern game" but it is likely your problem. Just had this problem and fixed this way on my EBD upper left. Also felt "magnetized" changed out coil, stops & sleeve's. Issue came right back. Raised flipper and used the flipper spacing tool (Titan Pinball) and its fixed

#4907 16 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Coil stop angle...Flipper bracket bow....

I was worried about that. I have a new bracket….and coil on the way. Guess it’s a full new flipper

Quoted from BFaster:

I know this says "Stern game" but it is likely your problem. Just had this problem and fixed this way on my EBD upper left. Also felt "magnetized" changed out coil, stops & sleeve's. Issue came right back. Raised flipper and used the flipper spacing tool (Titan Pinball) and its fixed

Man I made sure it had the slight gap to go up/down. I’ll double check!

#4908 16 days ago

Since doing restorations since 2009, I have gone deeper into cabinet resto. I was lucky enough to live close to a woodshop called The Woodworks. The first piece that I had them make were backbox trims for early Stern cabs. I replace the MDF wood with solid Poplar. When getting into some EBD cabs, I hated the rear panel of the base cab being particle board, almost always chipped along the bottom edge, or huge chunks missing from the corners. Of course replacing the floor requires at least one panel to be removed, so why not make a new back piece out of 3/4 ply? Then I could slide the new floor in. I did this for 3 different games and it turned out well with some help from Bondo. The shop could duplicate the miter joint that Bally did but they got it close enough to where you can't see any exposed edges of the plywood, so partially mitered if that makes sense.

A recent Xenon project with a bowed cab prompted me to try and make a complete base cab with the help of the woodshop. It was very expensive but I did it anyway. I took the cab completely apart and had them make all the piece, minus the head support frame and PF support blocks. The shop wasn't thrilled to take on the project but they did. A little bit of trial and error, but we got there.

Later I saw an ad here for 2 repro bally backboxes from PinballMikeD and I bought them. He explained that he started to build the base cab as well, two of them but were not complete. He was generous enough to include them in the sale, so basically free. Mike was on the right track, design improvements like biscuit joinery and 1/2 high grade plywood floors. And the best part is he added locking miter joints. I'm using one of these cabs for my current EBD resto. I finished up some small details, tee molding groove for the glass channels, mortice cut for the upright piece that supports the backbox frame and holds the rear glass channel support. I cut the diamond shaped hole for the shooter assy.

Then back to the Woodworks for the backbox support frame, which have complicated cuts, tapered blocks etc. Also the backbox frame panel where the head bolts go through and the back stop. These Bally cabs are no joke, so complicated but look simple.

My plan is to only paint the inside of the cab just below the PF as was done at factory. My thinking is to add a clear varnish on the exposed wood and floor to help make the inside of the cab easier to clean. I also think it will also look nicer. The backbox frame is only dry-fitted in the pics.

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#4909 16 days ago

Typo first paragraph: The could NOT duplicate the miter...

#4910 16 days ago

Looking awesome!

#4911 15 days ago

I love finding odd pinball parts when you least expect it. I was at a local hardware store yesterday looking for cotter pins. In a drawer just below I saw these rubber bumpers. They are usually worn out, missing or broken. This is the Bally rear PF glass support bar on many solid state games. It fits snug and is the same depth as the original, diameter just a tad wider. They weren't cheap though at $2.69 each. It was listed as an automotive part.

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#4912 13 days ago

Hoping someone can provide some advice here...

Problem:
My brother's EBD-LE has a problem where it keeps resetting. Sometimes it happens after playing a game or two, sometimes it happens immediately (and repeatedly). I had thought that it might be heat-related, but sometimes it happens right when he powers it on after having been off all night.

History:
The machine had been dead in his garage for years. He then had a (fairly well-known) pinball distributor / seller / servicer repair it (for a pretty decent amount of money). They replaced the CPU and Lamp driver boards, converted it to LEDs, and otherwise cleaned and "went over" it last year. I now had him replace the Power Module board, thinking that it might help (and it seemed like the board was not in the best of shape anyway). However, the problem persists.

Unfortunately, he lives in Bakersfield CA, while I am in Texas, and he is not very electronically inclined, so it's hard for me to help him over the phone.

So, anyway, does anyone have a suggestion of how to identify where the resets are coming from?

With a new CPU and Power board, I'm sort of out of ideas.
When the game isn't resetting, it seems like everything else is working (i.e. no stuck coils or anything obviously wrong).

I have my own EBD-LE here, and am very familiar with the machine and it's components, but I've never had a reset problem like this.

#4913 12 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Hoping someone can provide some advice here...
Problem:
My brother's EBD-LE has a problem where it keeps resetting. Sometimes it happens after playing a game or two, sometimes it happens immediately (and repeatedly). I had thought that it might be heat-related, but sometimes it happens right when he powers it on after having been off all night.
History:
The machine had been dead in his garage for years. He then had a (fairly well-known) pinball distributor / seller / servicer repair it (for a pretty decent amount of money). They replaced the CPU and Lamp driver boards, converted it to LEDs, and otherwise cleaned and "went over" it last year. I now had him replace the Power Module board, thinking that it might help (and it seemed like the board was not in the best of shape anyway). However, the problem persists.
Unfortunately, he lives in Bakersfield CA, while I am in Texas, and he is not very electronically inclined, so it's hard for me to help him over the phone.
So, anyway, does anyone have a suggestion of how to identify where the resets are coming from?
With a new CPU and Power board, I'm sort of out of ideas.
When the game isn't resetting, it seems like everything else is working (i.e. no stuck coils or anything obviously wrong).
I have my own EBD-LE here, and am very familiar with the machine and it's components, but I've never had a reset problem like this.

By "Power board" do you mean the solenoid driver module board in the backbox? If so, another thing to look at would be the transformer board in the bottom of the lower cabinet, especially if it's original. Look for burned connectors, loose connectors, loose/busted fuse holder/clips, bad rework by a previous owner, bad looking caps/resistors/bridges, large amounts of dust or dirt, etc. He could carefully wiggle the wires at the connectors with the machine on and see if he can induce the reset behavior....if it resets, then the connectors should be re-pinned and/or take a really close look at the transformer board.

Would be worth having a closer look at the connectors on the SDB as well, even tho it's new. Original connectors usually don't fare well after 40 years, even if connected to a new board.

#4914 12 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

By "Power board" do you mean the solenoid driver module board in the backbox? If so, another thing to look at would be the transformer board in the bottom of the lower cabinet, especially if it's original. Look for burned connectors, loose connectors, loose/busted fuse holder/clips, bad rework by a previous owner, bad looking caps/resistors/bridges, large amounts of dust or dirt, etc. He could carefully wiggle the wires at the connectors with the machine on and see if he can induce the reset behavior....if it resets, then the connectors should be re-pinned and/or take a really close look at the transformer board.
Would be worth having a closer look at the connectors on the SDB as well, even tho it's new. Original connectors usually don't fare well after 40 years, even if connected to a new board.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

The Power Module board (in the bottom of the machine) is the one I had him replace and the connectors SEEM good. The Solinoid Driver board is still original, but seems to look okay. There are no obvious burnt boards/connectors anywhere, but it certainly could be a connector issue somewhere.

#4915 12 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Sorry if I wasn't clear.
The Power Module board (in the bottom of the machine) is the one I had him replace and the connectors SEEM good. The Solinoid Driver board is still original, but seems to look okay. There are no obvious burnt boards/connectors anywhere, but it certainly could be a connector issue somewhere.

Ah, ok. Still a worthwhile test - carefully wiggle the wires/connectors at the power module board and SDB with the game on and see if it induces a reset. You might could also do the same with the wires into and out of the line filter in the lower cab.

You did mention the CPU was replaced with a new one. Is the new one an Alltek or other modern replacement, or is a different original Bally board? One other thing I look for when SS Bally games mysteriously reset is to see if there is any battery acid damage on original MPUs. Right around where a battery could leak is the MPU reset circuit, and if battery acid compromises any of the PCB parts in that area you could have booting and/or reset issues.

#4916 12 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Sorry if I wasn't clear.
The Power Module board (in the bottom of the machine) is the one I had him replace and the connectors SEEM good. The Solinoid Driver board is still original, but seems to look okay. There are no obvious burnt boards/connectors anywhere, but it certainly could be a connector issue somewhere.

Bad voltage regulator will cause resets. I forgot the assigned designation number but it's the large shiny thing in the center of the large heat sink on the solenoid driver. Lm323k. Change the large capacitor as well.

#4917 12 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Is the new one an Alltek or other modern replacement, or is a different original Bally board?

It's a new Alltek board.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Bad voltage regulator will cause resets. I forgot the assigned designation number but it's the large shiny thing in the center of the large heat sink on the solenoid driver. Lm323k. Change the large capacitor as well.

Yeah, the next thing I would want to try is to replace the Solenoid Driver board, but I'd prefer to have more than just a "guess" before we just throw more boards at the thing.

What would happen if we tried to boot the machine with the Solenoid Driver board disconnected? Can the CPU still boot up without it? If the CPU can boot without that board connected (and doesn't do the resetting), it would be a big hint that the Solenoid Driver is the problem.

#4918 12 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

What would happen if we tried to boot the machine with the Solenoid Driver board disconnected? Can the CPU still boot up without it? If the CPU can boot without that board connected (and doesn't do the resetting), it would be a big hint that the Solenoid Driver is the problem.

no, that won't work all the voltages are created on the solenoid driver board. It and the rectifier board are the 2 major components of the power supply

#4919 12 days ago

mbeardsley , What is your definition of reset? The game is powering down then up (a slam)? or the game is starting over?

Often overlooked is a switch matrix issue that when combined with the correct combination of targets down will cause the game to tilt, reset, or slam. The most common cause of this problem is a stuck coin switch on the front door. It might be worth a test to unplug the front door while playing a game and see if the problem goes away.
If the solenoid board is original you might want to replace the large filter caps if they are originals.

How about posting some pictures of the boards for evaluation?

#4920 12 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

mbeardsley , What is your definition of reset? The game is powering down then up (a slam)? or the game is starting over?
Often overlooked is a switch matrix issue that when combined with the correct combination of targets down will cause the game to tilt, reset, or slam. The most common cause of this problem is a stuck coin switch on the front door. It might be worth a test to unplug the front door while playing a game and see if the problem goes away.
If the solenoid board is original you might want to replace the large filter caps if they are originals.
How about posting some pictures of the boards for evaluation?

Remembering that I can't see this myself, just getting the info from my brother.

As he describes it, the machine "shuts off and then comes back up again". I asked, and he says that when it happens, it will say "Eight Ball Deluxe" when it comes back up again (and it does NOT do the slam tilt sound). Sometimes it will do this process over and over repeatedly, sometimes he can get in a game or so before it happens.

Disconnecting the coin door is a worthwhile thing to try, thanks!

#4921 11 days ago

More often than not resets like that are drops in the voltage to the CPU from the solenoid board. The coin door unplug is a good start. If that changes nothing I would suggest carefully unplugging and then replugging J-3 on the solenoid board. Its the top right corner plug. That is where all the voltages from the rectifier(power board in the bottom) come in to be smoothed and sent on to the CPU and other places. If the crimps are original chances are they are dirty/corroded. Unplugging and replugging will often resolve the issue at least temporarily.

Shawn

#4922 11 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

More often than not resets like that are drops in the voltage to the CPU from the solenoid board. The coin door unplug is a good start. If that changes nothing I would suggest carefully unplugging and then replugging J-3 on the solenoid board. Its the top right corner plug. That is where all the voltages from the rectifier(power board in the bottom) come in to be smoothed and sent on to the CPU and other places. If the crimps are original chances are they are dirty/corroded. Unplugging and replugging will often resolve the issue at least temporarily.
Shawn

Thanks, that's another great suggestion.

#4923 11 days ago

We would refer to a power reset that was not a slam as a crash. Crashing can also be caused by misadjusted EOS switches. Here is a simple test, try flipping both flippers continuously and observe if the game crashes. This was a test we performed in the factory. If the game crashes review the EOS adjustments. Double flipper EOSs should be adjusted Break-Make and the inside primary EOS should open at about 80% of the stroke.

#4924 11 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

We would refer to a power reset that was not a slam as a crash. Crashing can also be caused by misadjusted EOS switches. Here is a simple test, try flipping both flippers continuously and observe if the game crashes. This was a test we performed in the factory. If the game crashes review the EOS adjustments. Double flipper EOSs should be adjusted Break-Make and the inside primary EOS should open at about 80% of the stroke.

The problem is that most of the time you can't even start a game. You turn on the machine, it boots up, then shuts down, then boots up, then shuts down, etc.

Sometimes, it will stay up long enough to start a game, and once in a while it can actually play a full game, before it then starts the boot-shutdown-boot sequence. This makes me think it is a power-related issue - hence the replacing of the Power Module board.

#4925 11 days ago

So... Got 1981 EBD home... Prior owner had said they had turned down sounds.

Sw 18 set to 03 for all sounds.
Remote volume switch in coin box turned all the way up now.
Can barely hear any sounds... Like barely hear anything.

Are there any other volume switches or disks I need to turn up to "11" to hear the sounds?

Ordered new Alltek boards (for other reasons) - mpu, light and aux light, and solenoid.

Should I replace S&T board and if so with which one (looking for simple, an not an engineer, not a good solderer, and cannot read electrical schematics well)... Or should I replace the speaker?

Possibly a loose fuse from the transport?

Thanks for any advice you can provide

#4926 11 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Remote volume switch in coin box turned all the way up now.
Can barely hear any sounds... Like barely hear anything.

When you turn the volume pot on the coin box, does it "crackle" like it's dirty? During transport - was the backbox (and cables) removed? Try reseating (and inspecting) the connectors at J1 and J2 on the S&T board.

#4927 11 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

So... Got 1981 EBD home... Prior owner had said they had turned down sounds.
Sw 18 set to 03 for all sounds.
Remote volume switch in coin box turned all the way up now.
Can barely hear any sounds... Like barely hear anything.
Are there any other volume switches or disks I need to turn up to "11" to hear the sounds?
Ordered new Alltek boards (for other reasons) - mpu, light and aux light, and solenoid.
Should I replace S&T board and if so with which one (looking for simple, an not an engineer, not a good solderer, and cannot read electrical schematics well)... Or should I replace the speaker?
Possibly a loose fuse from the transport?
Thanks for any advice you can provide

There are also adjustable volume control pots on the S&T board itself. One for speech and one for sounds. Make sure that those have not been turned down.

#4928 10 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

There are also adjustable volume control pots on the S&T board itself. One for speech and one for sounds. Make sure that those have not been turned down.

What are POTS? And where would I find them in the S&t

Quoted from mbeardsley:

There are also adjustable volume control pots on the S&T board itself. One for speech and one for sounds. Make sure that those have not been turned down.

Thanks for it . They were turned down.. Now have sounds.. Thanks!

#4929 10 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

The problem is that most of the time you can't even start a game. You turn on the machine, it boots up, then shuts down, then boots up, then shuts down, etc.

Ahh, it gets worse and worse. A power issue most likely. I need to go back and check through your thread, but did you try replacing the Solenoid/power supply board? Not much more to add as I can see a lot of this has already been covered. Next time you visit the game I would come with a new SD board and see if that fixes it. Then you could bring the old board home and work on it when you can.

#4930 10 days ago

Hmm my left gate A-1475-12 has lost it's bounce Cannot find on any of the sites,looking to replace both the left and right ones. is a-1475-10 from marco the replacement piece,or what is the best option?

also looking to repair/replace ball gate ASE-2250-27, do not see it anywhere either.

Any companies making bumper kits that include the under playfield (coil, sprint, etc) and over playfield (caps, etc) in one kit?

I don't have a rotisserie, never soldered before - bit nervous about replacing the coils, springs etc even after seeing Vids post with the detailed instructions and screwing it up.

#4931 9 days ago

Afternoon - working on my EBD, and looking for some advice on bumpers and LED
Caps - Just realized the caps do not screw in (prior owner has one scotch taped down) - just ordered 3 on eBay. Do most people use original orange clip on caps, or replace with ones with screws?
Bumpers - what kits or parts do we need to replace everything above and below the board? Since the caps clip on, what are the parts needed, where would I find them? Manual does not list all parts, and a bit confused.
I know AN-26-1200 is the coil with diode, but what about spoon and actuator - do I buy loaded or non-loaded parts?

Any trick to replacing the bulbs with LED? Can i bend back the sockets to uninstall old/install new LED like i did on my 1978 Playboy?

If someone has a complete part list form their rebuild f bumpers please share. Thanks.

#4932 8 days ago

Hi it's me again..the village idiot. I thought 8 bought a 1981 EBD, found out I got the 1984 classic. And think overpaid because I didn't do all my research

And the Alltek MPU board does not fit on the classic rails in the backbox.

Now just need to figure out if the LED bulb kit I got from Marcos will work, and have to figure out how to change bulbs

#4933 8 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Hmm my left gate A-1475-12 has lost it's bounce Cannot find on any of the sites,looking to replace both the left and right ones. is a-1475-10 from marco the replacement piece,or what is the best option?

Lost it's bounce? What do you mean? These have a metal flap to prevent the ball from passing. If they have some rust on them, they may stick, they will come out nice after tumbling in walnut media for a couple of days. I'm not sure about the -10. It may have a different angle and that price! I have spares if you want them.

also looking to repair/replace ball gate ASE-2250-27, do not see it anywhere either.

The -27 is NLA, you need to make your own from .093 stainless welding rod.

Any companies making bumper kits that include the under playfield (coil, sprint, etc) and over playfield (caps, etc) in one kit?
I don't have a rotisserie, never soldered before - bit nervous about replacing the coils, springs etc even after seeing Vids post with the detailed instructions and screwing it up.

No kits for these jet bumpers. You need to buy parts separately. The C-970-5 body and C-971-5 base are difficult to find. Most bases you will find are 3D printed repros which are fine but expensive. You can try just cleaning them up if not damaged. If new to soldering, I suggest buying a trigger feed iron, cheap on Amazon. Practice with scrap wire until you get the feel for it. The key is knowing how much heat to apply and when to release the iron before the solder runs/drips off. But, you want to get it hot enough for the flux to do it's job and make a solid connection. If you can, remove the PF from the cab and place it upside down to make soldering easier. Solder the wire to the coil before mounting the coil in place.

#4934 8 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Afternoon - working on my EBD, and looking for some advice on bumpers and LED
Caps - Just realized the caps do not screw in (prior owner has one scotch taped down) - just ordered 3 on eBay. Do most people use original orange clip on caps, or replace with ones with screws?
Bumpers - what kits or parts do we need to replace everything above and below the board? Since the caps clip on, what are the parts needed, where would I find them? Manual does not list all parts, and a bit confused.
I know AN-26-1200 is the coil with diode, but what about spoon and actuator - do I buy loaded or non-loaded parts?
Any trick to replacing the bulbs with LED? Can i bend back the sockets to uninstall old/install new LED like i did on my 1978 Playboy?
If someone has a complete part list form their rebuild f bumpers please share. Thanks.

The bumper caps and rings are actually called amber, not orange. Best place to buy is from Pinball Resource. There were some caps that were screw mounted since they had a history of popping off on location. The reproduction caps are just snap on. Since you are new to soldering I would not buy a complete switch assy for the pops, you can just buy the spoon actuator from PBR. The complete switch is ASW-A1-195, PBR should have them if you want to get them. There is part of the switch stack that has the wiring for the pop bumper lamp. If removing the base you will need a Molex .093 pin extractor tool to pop the pins out. Note, the lamps in the pops are switched lamps, not GI. If the contacts on the switches don't look pitted, you can clean them with a crisp $100 bill. DO NOT use a burnishing tool or file. I use tarnish (Tarnx) remover when really dirty.

I wouldn't bother with LED in the pops, the caps are facitted so you won't really see the lights, just use a good LED bulb.

#4935 8 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Hi it's me again..the village idiot. I thought 8 bought a 1981 EBD, found out I got the 1984 classic. And think overpaid because I didn't do all my research
And the Alltek MPU board does not fit on the classic rails in the backbox.
Now just need to figure out if the LED bulb kit I got from Marcos will work, and have to figure out how to change bulbs

Pop bumper parts diagram was posted by Mathazar in post #3272

You may need to move the PCB stand-offs to get the MPU to fit correctly. It should fit as all the MPU's were them same size.

Putting LED'a in the 555 sockets is no fun. Turn game off. You need to bend the socket tabs slightly to reach them.

#4936 8 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Pop bumper parts diagram was posted by Mathazar in post #3272
You may need to move the PCB stand-offs to get the MPU to fit correctly. It should fit as all the MPU's were them same size.
Putting LED'a in the 555 sockets is no fun. Turn game off. You need to bend the socket tabs slightly to reach them.

Page 16 in the image gallery...

#4937 8 days ago

Picked this up a few days ago, all working but just needs a few things like new in lane returns as broke and pop ring/cap which I have.
Touched in some spots on the playfield and ordered a playfield protector, see how that goes but might fit a hardtop or new playfield next year.
Probably led GI and keep incandescents for pops and inserts.
Such a great game.

3F99EDBB-57E3-4D44-B154-4FFF0A6B4A08 (resized).jpeg
#4938 8 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Pop bumper parts diagram was posted by Mathazar in post #3272
You may need to move the PCB stand-offs to get the MPU to fit correctly. It should fit as all the MPU's were them same size.
Putting LED'a in the 555 sockets is no fun. Turn game off. You need to bend the socket tabs slightly to reach them.

Thanks... My project for the day

#4939 8 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Pop bumper parts diagram was posted by Mathazar in post #3272
You may need to move the PCB stand-offs to get the MPU to fit correctly. It should fit as all the MPU's were them same size.
Putting LED'a in the 555 sockets is no fun. Turn game off. You need to bend the socket tabs slightly to reach them.

Thank you! I somehow missed it when I tried searching

#4940 8 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Pop bumper parts diagram was posted by Mathazar in post #3272
You may need to move the PCB stand-offs to get the MPU to fit correctly. It should fit as all the MPU's were them same size.
Putting LED'a in the 555 sockets is no fun. Turn game off. You need to bend the socket tabs slightly to reach them.

Unfortunately the holes in my rails don't line up with the holes on the mpu PCB board.

We'll see how it goes bending the sockets, I guess it's similar to the old through sockets like I have on my Playboy where you just bend it remove old bulb and insert new bulb. On the light boards under the playfield, I guess you turn the black knobs remove the bulb and replace it

#4941 8 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Unfortunately the holes in my rails don't line up with the holes on the mpu PCB board.
We'll see how it goes bending the sockets, I guess it's similar to the old through sockets like I have on my Playboy where you just bend it remove old bulb and insert new bulb. On the light boards under the playfield, I guess you turn the black knobs remove the bulb and replace it

I forgot the later version has the lamp boards. Yes they are just twist and lock sockets. Do you have an alltek lamp driver for the leds?

#4942 7 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I forgot the later version has the lamp boards. Yes they are just twist and lock sockets. Do you have an alltek lamp driver for the leds?

yes i do, attaching the lead wire as we speak

#4943 7 days ago

Evening - searche dhit forum for Squawk and Talk - any good options to replacing the board, where to find replacement from qood quality source? Geetech is selling a new one for $240 plug and play

https://geeteoh.com/geeteoh/squawktalk.shtml

#4944 6 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

Evening - searche dhit forum for Squawk and Talk - any good options to replacing the board, where to find replacement from qood quality source? Geetech is selling a new one for $240 plug and play
https://geeteoh.com/geeteoh/squawktalk.shtml

Get it.

#4945 6 days ago

not much choice - my speech just went out...sigh..ordering now. any thoughts on trying to fix it...turned the speech pots dial back and forth, nada.

#4946 5 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

not much choice - my speech just went out...sigh..ordering now. any thoughts on trying to fix it...turned the speech pots dial back and forth, nada.

I'm no expert on sound boards by any stretch. I do know that U8 on the S&T is for speech. That the TMS5200NL. This chip is obsolete for the most part. If you can find one NOS, they are expensive. Also the legs on these are known to tarnish or oxidize. Since you're getting the new board, you could try pulling the IC and try cleaning it up, it may or may not work but it's worth a try. That's the best part of the Geeteoh board is that it has the latest technology and no TMS5200.

#4947 5 days ago

my left gate at top of is an a-1475-13 (left ball gate), right one is a-1475-12. Cannot find these anywhere - are the a-1475-9 and -10 ok substitutes? Vinding the ball just hits the left ball gate after shooting it, without much play/rebound so looking to replace. Looking for good bounce back against the gate when ball hits it, bounce between the left and right ones like I have on my Playboy.

Also looking to rebuild the flipper kits, but what is the right base plate for it?

For the score display, wolffpac is the lowest price, then rottendog - who have you used for your replacement score displays for plug-and-play?

The ball kickout/trough kickout is weakening - what are the parts for that and who have you ordered from?

Does anyone have a full parts catalog for the EBD, and good source for finding alternate/newer part numbers? - the one i found online only has 46 pages, does not show every part

thanks.

#4948 3 days ago
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:

my left gate at top of is an a-1475-13 (left ball gate), right one is a-1475-12. Cannot find these anywhere - are the a-1475-9 and -10 ok substitutes? Vinding the ball just hits the left ball gate after shooting it, without much play/rebound so looking to replace. Looking for good bounce back against the gate when ball hits it, bounce between the left and right ones like I have on my Playboy.
Also looking to rebuild the flipper kits, but what is the right base plate for it?
For the score display, wolffpac is the lowest price, then rottendog - who have you used for your replacement score displays for plug-and-play?
The ball kickout/trough kickout is weakening - what are the parts for that and who have you ordered from?
Does anyone have a full parts catalog for the EBD, and good source for finding alternate/newer part numbers? - the one i found online only has 46 pages, does not show every part
thanks.

You want this one. Copies are fine, ebay.com link: itm

The upper gates do not provide a bounce. Perhaps your shooter rod spring is weak or worn. Also the rod itself could be dirty, corroded or pitted. The bushing sleeve could also be worn and/or dirty. Any of these things will slow the ball after pulling the plunger. You can try a stronger spring on the shooter rod. Pinball Life has them. Other option could be to place a rubber ring on the gate flap(hack) or replace the gate with a rebound rubber like this(hack): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-4741

My personal opinion is that the upper pf is a skill shot to get either the A or B lane so no real reason for the ball to bouncing so much up there and this causes excessive wear on the PF as you can see on many of these games since no Mylar is usually up in that area.

For the flippers, you're better off buying the parts separately. The base plates are reversible. If the opposite holes were never used, there's no need to buy new bases. If the upper left flipper base is bad, you may need to buy one. This is P-6264-134. The other parts needed to rebuild the flippers:

Linear plunger: S-496-217
Flipper cranks (lever) : Right A-3711-5 Left A-3711-4
Bushing: C-649-53
Return spring: SP-100-363
Coil stop (core plug): A-613-127 for #10 screw or A-613-115 for #8 screw.
Flipper shaft/arm assembly: A-2747-11
Bat: C611-5

No trough mech parts available that I know of. These typically don't wear out. Remove apron and see if the arm moves w/o resistance. If binding, remove the coil. If the sleeve won't come out, chances are the coil has overheated at some point and swelled. If it does come out without too much effort, replace the sleeve and clean the plunger with extra fine steel wool. Be sure the coil is correct, should be AT-26-1200, 3 lugs like a flipper coil, only 2 lugs wired. This coil operates by the solenoid expander board so no variation of the coil should be installed.

#4949 3 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

You want this one. Copies are fine, ebay.com link: itm
The upper gates do not provide a bounce. Perhaps your shooter rod spring is weak or worn. Also the rod itself could be dirty, corroded or pitted. The bushing sleeve could also be worn and/or dirty. Any of these things will slow the ball after pulling the plunger. You can try a stronger spring on the shooter rod. Pinball Life has them. Other option could be to place a rubber ring on the gate flap(hack) or replace the gate with a rebound rubber like this(hack): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-4741
My personal opinion is that the upper pf is a skill shot to get either the A or B lane so no real reason for the ball to bouncing so much up there and this causes excessive wear on the PF as you can see on many of these games since no Mylar is usually up in that area.
For the flippers, you're better off buying the parts separately. The base plates are reversible. If the opposite holes were never used, there's no need to buy new bases. If the upper left flipper base is bad, you may need to buy one. This is P-6264-134. The other parts needed to rebuild the flippers:
Linear plunger: S-496-217
Flipper cranks (lever) : Right A-3711-5 Left A-3711-4
Bushing: C-649-53
Return spring: SP-100-363
Coil stop (core plug): A-613-127 for #10 screw or A-613-115 for #8 screw.
Flipper shaft/arm assembly: A-2747-11
Bat: C611-5
No trough mech parts available that I know of. These typically don't wear out. Remove apron and see if the arm moves w/o resistance. If binding, remove the coil. If the sleeve won't come out, chances are the coil has overheated at some point and swelled. If it does come out without too much effort, replace the sleeve and clean the plunger with extra fine steel wool. Be sure the coil is correct, should be AT-26-1200, 3 lugs like a flipper coil, only 2 lugs wired. This coil operates by the solenoid expander board so no variation of the coil should be installed.

Thank you! I had ordered the flipper rebuild kits and plates from Marcos, and new flippers. Appreciate the notes about the gate too. will look into the other items with the guy cleaning up my machine. Thank you!

Any thoughts on what speaker to use as replacement?

#4950 3 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

For the flippers, you're better off buying the parts separately. The base plates are reversible. If the opposite holes were never used, there's no need to buy new bases. If the upper left flipper base is bad, you may need to buy one. This is P-6264-134. The other parts needed to rebuild the flippers:

I learned the hard way that the the left flipper base plate on Centaur is different than all the other linear flipper plates, as it is notched on one end to accommodate a lamp socket.

I noticed too, that after I brought it to the attention of Marco, they modified their store with a new entry for the replacement. Not exactly sure why it would be three bucks more than the one without the notch however.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6264-134-M

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