If definitely tempting to switch. I only just heard of Oliver from this forum. As far as the Weebly, I just put one in my friend’s Future Spa and did the 7 digit mod for it. I have a much older Alltek in my Mata Hari. That one has a button battery. That’s the one I would dump.

You should thank Oliver as he originally did the 7 digit mods for all these games.... I bugged him for a while to do the same for the classic sterns. Even if the weebly one isn't his version (it likely is), it's all him.

One of the old school rom hackers who inspired me for sure.

Yeah I think I'm going to do this. Maybe it will help my lousy scores lol. Why doesn't Alltek allow for these roms? Is it just a licensing thing?

The Alltek board already has two of Olivers ROMs "New Fathom" and "New Vector" so it shouldn't be a licensing thing.

I've never seen any mention on Allteks website or their manual stating that their MPU board is officially licensed to ship with Bally code. Who knows what their arrangement is with the copyright holders.

It sounds like you have solenoid expander issues. Check the load lamp next to the SE board. Make sure it's not missing or been replaced with an LED. Put the game in lamp test and the board should click and flash like an old fashioned turn signal.

When I got the game I put all led's in. I purchased a new weebly SE and installed. Booted the game up and had the issues. Then stumbled upon the post about the incandescent in the socket next to the SE. Swapped to the incandescent. Was running tests but now my test button will not respond anymore.

I have a weebly mpu and lamp boards on order, so i can run led's without flicker and just in case this stock mpu is funky. I just need this solid for route and with some of these weird issues. I don't want to be guessing and chasing stuff around

Did you verify that all the coils in the game are the correct part? I have had quite a few ebds and I have seen many times where someone put a 2 lug coil where a 3 lug coil should be. Usually the outhole kicker. 3 lug coils have 2 diodes which blocks the path of current when the seb is firing certain coils.

The are 7 three lug coils as follows:

Outhole
Saucer eject
Inline DT reset
1/9 memory coil
2/10 memory coil
Horseshoe DT reset (2 coils)

These are the coils controlled by the seb. Any variation from the correct coil will cause problems. They also need to be wired correctly.

The mentioned coils were chosen because they are not needed immediately like a sling or pop bumper and gives the seb time to react.

Just wanted to close the loop if anyone ended up searching for this same issue down the road, this switch worked out great, thanks for the suggestion.

Mine has only the two blue end posts with the ring across them. In the center it's one of those skinny cylindrical white spacer posts. Gives you predictable rebound with a little 'give' in the middle because of the skinnier post.

I know the manual doesn't show anything up there but the setup with three blue posts each with its own post ring looks totally wrong. Rebounds would be all over the place. Never saw a shooter rebound set up like that.

There's only two places the ball could go from that small area, so I'm not sure how rebounds would be "all over the place" or why they would need to be "predictable", but to each their own. Doesn't look "totally wrong" to me at all, and from a player's perspective it's hardly visible, so I dunno....for me it's a non-issue I guess.

Blue (resized).jpg

I mean in terms of a shooter rebound, normally it is a rubber across two posts so you can nudge it well between both sides. With three small rubbers, the ball is always hitting round rubbers with the ever-changing angles instead of a 'flat' rubber strung across the posts. I have one across the other side too (the two posts by the saucer). But now looking at the flyer it sorta kinda looks like they DID have it set up with single post rubbers on both sides?? I've had it wrong all these years? That damn manual with every bit of this stuff omitted.

Thank you! I will go check them now and document. I'll post back with findings.
With some of the hack job'ing done on it, I don't doubt there may be some incorrect ones.

Saucer - AT-27-1300 - 3 lug 2 diode (none on the lug w/ diode bands)
single drop - AO-27-1300 - 2 lug 1 diode
inline drop - NB-26-1900 - 3 lug 2 diode
outhole - AT-26-1200 - 3 lug 2 diode

seems that all 3 lug coils except flippers do not have a wire on the lug with diode bands

Manual:
saucer - AT-27-1300
single drop - AO-27-1300
drop reset - NB-26-1900
outhole - AT-26-1200

Coils look correct. The individual drop coils on the right bank all work.

Selling my Eightball Deluxe LE project machine in Tacoma, WA 98406 if anyone is in the market.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/140644

If anyone can measure or has the length and width of the plywood board that holds the tilt bob, service plug etc.... that would be greatly appreciated.

In the middle of restorating my ebd and seem to have lost the piece of plywood, looking like I am going to need to cut a new piece.

10” Wide x 8” High.

I can send you a used one to use as a template. Just need postage cost.

Bad driver board diag button return connector, or bad MPU test connector, or bad button.

The ground return for the test button goes back to the driver board. With a multimeter buzz test confirm one end of the test button is electrically connected to ground. Then Buzz test across the button terminals while pushing the button to make sure it works properly. If that looks good, check the lower right connector on the MPU, the test button pin is labeled on the replacement MPU.

Your MPU and light boards are in. With the new mpu, more things are working. Test button, "eight ball deluxe" speaking at game boot, ALL coils fire now in test except coil 19/20 which I think someone said was normal. What doesn't work is game start, however I see that the outhole switch is super finicky. I toned it back to the connector J2 and it beeps good, but seems like the switch itself is finicky on closing. I cleaned it but it seems meh, is there a specific replacement? The rivet pads that touch are white for some reason.

woot woot! that outhole switch was causing the game start issue. I took it down, cleaned it more and used a switch tool. The "white" was the silver inside the switch touch rivets. which are normally "brass/gold" looking. they must be plated?

Last thing to fix is the upper left flipper not working. I just need to check schematics, and verify it is wired and power is getting there etc. SOOO excited to play! in my little test just now, it was pretty fun to try and hit all those drops and progress.

I was talking to a real estate agent who's husband passed a year ago, I happened to mention I need a cellar with decent access for my pinballs. She say's my husband had one in his man cave. She sent me a picture of a Eight Ball Deluxe looks to be in nice condition, said it was a restoration from a vendor. I told her I would try to get here a value for it. I'm just looking for a price range to tell her. What do you all think going rate is?

Any tips/tricks to get NicoVolta's posts w/ plastics to install easy?
So far I've taped the screw to the top plastic then fed the assembly onto those screws and tried to drop into the holes, but I have to trim some plastic on the right side to fit the ball gate.

Also there is a 5th post for the build guide plastic that is secured by itself, not with the top plastic....seems normal. I just need a shorter screw..

IMG_5555 (resized).jpeg

IMG_5557 (resized).jpg

Here's how the upper arch is set up on mine. I saw another set up very similar on another EBD but most have the five posts with 5 post rings. I did it this way in the 90s when I put the pf in but I could have goofed, or that's how the trashed pf was set up so I copied it, can't remember. First pf swap I ever did, didn't take any pictures. I think I'll at least put a blue post in the left center instead of that white spacer.

298167500_438664368202550_5080310721711591718_n (resized).jpg

EBD No.1 has all blue ribbed post
and all 5/16" white rubber rings.
Missing on yours, is the steel pin between the two posts on the right.
Scrutinize this picture from the photo morgue.
pasted_image (resized).png

What are you guys setting your pf incline at? 6.5 I think is the default most use, but I get so used to newer games I don't know how slow these 80's games should play.

I have power at each flipper lug via dmm black to cab ground, red to each lug w/ game on.

Started a game, lower flipper worked, I held the flipper button and manually flipped the upper flipper and boom, flippers went dead. However when I was pushing in the flipper I felt it pull in some. I found a fuse blown on on the power rectifier board, F4 (43v solenoids)

Here is how the flippers are wired.

IMG_5560 (resized).jpeg

IMG_5561 (resized).jpeg

ebd flipper (resized).png

Your EOS switch on the top flipper is backwards.

Thank you! that was it. I flipped the eos switch, and adjusted it to be closed until the flipper activates and then it is open. I see both are flipping.

You want the flipper be about 75% up before the eos breaks contact completely. Also the gap between the contacts should be about a 1/16 inch open when flipper fully engaged. This will prevent the eos contacts from heavy arcing and prolong the life of eos.

Pinside has a market value section that gives a general idea based on recent sales. It depends on condition and the game location. Here in Chicagoland in restored condition they sell for 2-4K. In Hooterville Wyoming much less.

Mine is an NOS playfield from way way back but there's no dimple or hole where that steel pin is. That looks funny too, a pin stuck between two posts just to fill the gap to keep the ball from getting hung up between them. Makes more sense to me to just put a ring across those two right posts so I'm keeping my setup except putting a blue post on the left. I'll try post rubbers on the left but I don't think I'll like it.

I've had different rubbers on games and people tell me it's "wrong". Since I like the way it plays my way and it's my machine, they can kiss off.

I also don't care if "it's not the way the designer intended.". The designer doesn't own the machine, I do.

The ring chart lists ten 5/16s rubbers but if all the posts up there should be that way, then I count eleven 5/16s including behind the 8 ball lane entrance minipost and one near to the ball arch gate. Gotta love that manual. But it definitely does not list any larger rings for how I have it set up. Normally I would correct it to be 'right' according to factory but this may be an exception.

**Now I know where I goofed with the white spacer post... it's supposed to be the top post for the saucer gate. I have the blue post there instead, with a rubber on it, so all I need to do is switch them. I KNEW there was no left over blue post back then, that would have bugged me to no end!

**Correction - found out I never put a blue post behind the left arch gate, so I am actually short one blue post now! It's not like I ever missed that one not being there, but... anyway the ring chart 5/16 count is still off by one if you include that post.

I have one NOS from the first run of the game.
The playfield has a small hole for the steel post.

That's the only thing that isn't there on mine, no pin hole for that nail. I see the hole on repro playfields too.

I have had to deal with later run playfields of EBD and a lot of holes and markings
were missing; this was back in 1985.

Even on the repros, two diff makers, one has the pin hole, another one doesn't. Best I can remember is I got this pf around the early 90s, perhaps even the late 80s.
I'm figuring they designed the game with just the two posts, then late in the game they found the ball can get hung up there a little (could probably shake it loose easily but still) let's hammer a pin in there. Designing it that way from the start? Looks way too sloppy.
8BD-3 (resized).jpg

One element to the artwork that has now suffered is the [A,B,C,D] lamps.
The white line dithering streaks used to make the green shades and doodads have
the appearance of depth and roundness, is now lost to bits of chunky white
blotches. The art images of the green lite fixtures are now more flat.

Now to be cleared....

D5935944-5F8D-494D-857E-8397E9D9FC29 (resized).png

Nice work can’t wait to repurpose my Harlem globetrotters cab into an ebd cab. Just need some time off to start sanding and painting. Who’s stencils did you use?

Pinball Pimp. I didn’t do this I had it done....

It looks like you did a nice job.

I have been slowly rebuilding my EBD after a hardtop. Last mechanical thing to fix is the slings. They fire in test, but not during "gameplay". So logic points to a switch issue. But as I meter out the switches I see voltage at the switch and continuity between the two silver strands when I open and close the switch. All other switches seem to work and be correct. So I don't think it is a matrix issue. What would be the next step?

Testing the switches using the switch test in the game.

I had similar issues where a coil would fire in test or not, but I could ground them out and they’d fire. I swapped mpu with a weebly and everything worked so something on the mpu board is bad I just don’t have the time to troubleshoot.

But switch test with the coin door button is a good start.

Ok, went into the switch test and confirmed all switches ( I did not confirm all the drop switches but the first couple in the sequence were correct) are reading correctly, and neither of the two sets of sling shot switches are registering as closed. Wiring looks correct, diodes check good as well so I am kinda stumped. Any other ideas?

Do you have a spare mpu to test with? I had many coils not firing but would fire in test and swapping mpu fixed it.

No extra mpu. Everything worked prior to the hardtop install so that is why I think it is switch and wiring related. Will do more trouble shooting here in a bit.

If the coils fire in test than that wiring is fine and it is the switch wiring. There are three wires to check.

If the pops fire correctly, Check continuity of the yellow/red wire between the sling switches and any of the pops. If those are good;

Check continuity of the brown wire between the left sling and the "B" rollover switch.
Check continuity of the orange/black wire between the right sling and the "A" rollover lane.

All of the switch wires are daisy chained and if the chain breaks at any point you will have these problems. Good luck!

Shawn

Found the culprit, it was a broken wire between the lower pop switch and the sling.