Yes that -152 switch looks like it's for saucers, not star rollovers.
I bought the super bands kit from Marco, but not sure on the size and location of a handful. Is there a better or newer ring location than the “stock” photocopied version?
Does anyone know of a good source of high quality apron and shooter gauge decals? I would like to avoid classic arcades from past experience if I can. Are there other options?
could try
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
or
https://www.upkickpinball.com/ - I've ordered cards through them and liked them a lot.
Quoted from KJL:Does anyone know of a good source of high quality apron and shooter gauge decals? I would like to avoid classic arcades from past experience if I can. Are there other options?
Nothing good available since pinball rescue stopped making them and then they closed for good
Quoted from Lovef2k:Nothing good available since pinball rescue stopped making them and then they closed for good
Oh my bad, is this the lines painted on the apron not the cards. Sorry
Hello All. Question. Just had my Pin worked on and tech soldered all the capacitors back on. One side snipped off. I thought you wanted those off due to pain finding one if it goes bad.
Quoted from PBMAN:Hello All. Question. Just had my Pin worked on and tech soldered all the capacitors back on. One side snipped off. I thought you wanted those off due to pain finding one if it goes bad.
It all depends on if you have an open switch that reads closed.
The caps are used on target switches and for quick response switches.
If all your switches are reading open in self test, then all is good.
[ Remember to have drop targets rested and the ball out of the outhole. ]
Quoted from northvibe:I bought the super bands kit from Marco, but not sure on the size and location of a handful. Is there a better or newer ring location than the “stock” photocopied version?
I just installed a kit on my machine and I agree with you. The instructions are weak for sure. What one's are you asking about?
Quoted from PBMAN:Just had my Pin worked on and tech soldered all the capacitors back on. One side snipped off.
Common but painful troubleshooting to find a shorted cap. It was easier to snip the caps and leave them that way than to replace them. If the caps are original you are on borrowed time and I recommend replacing them.
Quoted from iamdrunker:I just installed a kit on my machine and I agree with you. The instructions are weak for sure. What one's are you asking about?
When I get home I’ll grab a pic, it was the smaller bands. I may of just miss used a few. Thanks! I’ll grab info when I get back.
Quoted from iamdrunker:I just installed a kit on my machine and I agree with you. The instructions are weak for sure. What one's are you asking about?
The ones around the left pop bumper. I just want to make sure I use all the rubbers in the right spots.....I thought I was missing some but when I took pics of the tear down, the old owner may of put rubbers in the wrong spots?
IMG_5414 (resized).jpgWanting to see what people have done to secure these posts.
So on the purple arrow, it was a through hole, so I added a new T nut and new metal post. (long thread section)
the green arrow is on the right above that drop bank. Is a wood thread, I was looking at adding a tnut below but it is right on the corner of the drop mech. So I may just fill with wood and let the post get some new wood to grip.
Thoughts?
IMG_5414_posts (resized).jpgHi all,
I'm currently working on the last issues after a full playfield swap on my EBD .
In switch test there is one switch 33 registering closed although it is open ( there is no capacitor on this single droptarget switch ) .
During PF swap all switch capacitors has been renewed !
Following switches not registering are , switch 02 ( 3X in the four line drop targetbank ) switch 18 ( 2 , 10 in the seven line drop targetbank )
and switch 26 from stand up target "E" , deluxe".
I have no idea about switch 34 " saucer " from the same row as this one could not be showed as long 33 is registering closed .
Any idea which diode could be the culprit ???
Quoted from northvibe:Wanting to see what people have done to secure these posts.
So on the purple arrow, it was a through hole, so I added a new T nut and new metal post. (long thread section)
the green arrow is on the right above that drop bank. Is a wood thread, I was looking at adding a tnut below but it is right on the corner of the drop mech. So I may just fill with wood and let the post get some new wood to grip.
Thoughts?
[quoted image]
For your post near the drop target bank, we used a T nut countersunk with a forstner bit. See post #89 on my playfield swap done by Dave Macy.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-cpr-playfield-swap/page/2#post-5879627
Quoted from phillyfan64:For your post near the drop target bank, we used a T nut countersunk with a forstner bit. See post #89 on my playfield swap done by Dave Macy.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-cpr-playfield-swap/page/2#post-5879627
AHHHH and counter sunk, nice! if I have to remove it again or swap pf's I will for sure do that. Thank you. I JUST glued some wood in to use the wood metal post again for the time being. see how abused it is on route.
Quoted from northvibe:I was looking at adding a tnut below but it is right on the corner of the drop mech. So I may just fill with wood and let the post get some new wood to grip.
T-nuts are great if you have the space. On some games where there was not Bally would just use a nut and washer.
Quoted from BigAl56:T-nuts are great if you have the space. On some games where there was not Bally would just use a nut and washer.
I think the other side had the washer/nut and that was oval'ing out. So i put a tnut in that with a larger thread post. feels solid. I'd love a tnut on this right side but with the pf being fully populated and not out...it would be...fun. Is a forstner bit the one you want to make the sunken cut for the tnut to be flush?
Quoted from northvibe:I bought the super bands kit from Marco, but not sure on the size and location of a handful. Is there a better or newer ring location than the “stock” photocopied version?
I have these two left over?
But the post on the upper right next to the one way gate is missing a ring. So is that a longer ring that goes over two posts?
Quoted from northvibe:I have these two left over?
But the post on the upper right next to the one way gate is missing a ring. So is that a longer ring that goes over two posts?
[quoted image][quoted image]
do you have manual? The ring sizes and locations are shown.
Quoted from Lovef2k:do you have manual? The ring sizes and locations are shown.
The ring chart is missing everything around the upper playfield
Quoted from Lovef2k:do you have manual? The ring sizes and locations are shown.
I do, let me see if it shows anything. marco shipped a photoshopped chart/map but as iamdrunker said, it does not show you where rings should go.
Quoted from iamdrunker:Hmm. Now that I think about it I think I had a extra 1" band too. It certainly could be used for that location. This is what I did and it seems to work ok.
[quoted image]
Yeah, im missing the 1 small 3/4"? for that post...so I may have to use a single band around those two.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Has anybody converted their game to use PF hinges/pivot as used on later games? There is room under the pf for the pivots but I'm not sure if the wire loom is long enough. I'm thinking like the type used on HS or similar.
Data East had a test for their playfield design. Pick the playfield up and out of the cabinet,
and rest the playfield next to the side of the cabinet.
Williams playfields had to have the wiring harness unplugged to accomplish this kind of
maneuver. So, if you can move the EBD playfield out of the cabinet, then you should have room
to modify the games original support system with no problems to the playfield wiring loom.
Quoted from northvibe:Where does this go? Can't seem to find a picture that shows it.....
[quoted image]
On the sound board?
Quoted from northvibe:Where does this go? Can't seem to find a picture that shows it.....
[quoted image]
Lower right side of the Squawk and Talk board.
9298708F-7F4E-4718-9A48-F0162455A184 (resized).jpegC7530700-9047-4E88-B92A-92D8B405D9A2 (resized).jpegGame boots! but holy issues hahah.
In solenoid test, the numbers should be the same as the manual, I am guessing. Mine are all kind of weird. So I'll verify what wire is at what pin.
In line drops, slings and upper left flipper don't fire in test.
I can start a game, flippers work, but only the 8 ball drop is up. Has a rottendog driver board. Off to verify more.
EDIT: with a rottendog driver board, am I okay if I ground the coil transistor top out to manually fire a coil?
Jx seem to be correct at the board pin wise.
EDIT: documenting for info
All transistors that ground out the tab on fire except q17, q18, q19
So both slings fire when manually ground, but the 4 inline drops are not working. I'll take a peak after work.
Quoted from northvibe:EDIT: documenting for info
All transistors that ground out the tab on fire except q17, q18, q19So both slings fire when manually ground, but the 4 inline drops are not working. I'll take a peak after work.
those transistors aren't used in EBD (well, one is likely the coin lockout.... they are the ones used for continuous solenoids)
in line drops might be reset on the solenoid expanded circuit.
Quoted from slochar:those transistors aren't used in EBD (well, one is likely the coin lockout.... they are the ones used for continuous solenoids)
in line drops might be reset on the solenoid expanded circuit.
Yes, the inline dt reset is tied in w the seb.
I was told of a software update for ebd where you need to hit the deluxe targets in order? Is this real? If so, I missed the thread.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I was told of a software update for ebd where you need to hit the deluxe targets in order? Is this real? If so, I missed the thread.
It's not new 2007 or so. Afaik Oliver isn't on pinside.
Patched ROM might be on ipdb already.
Quoted from slochar:those transistors aren't used in EBD (well, one is likely the coin lockout.... they are the ones used for continuous solenoids)
in line drops might be reset on the solenoid expanded circuit.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Yes, the inline dt reset is tied in w the seb.
Ugh dang, I have a new solenoid expander in there (under pf)
Quoted from slochar:It's not new 2007 or so. Afaik Oliver isn't on pinside.
Patched ROM might be on ipdb already.
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html
This won’t work with an Alltek board right? Or is there a way?
Quoted from phillyfan64:This won’t work with an Alltek board right? Or is there a way?
Don't think so. I have an Altek in mine from oh maybe 3 to 5 years ago and it just has the standard EBD code, no Oliver DELUXE code, no bonus bug fix.
Quoted from phillyfan64:This won’t work with an Alltek board right? Or is there a way?
While you could conceivably add it it voids the lifetime warranty so most people don't try.
Quoted from northvibe:Ugh dang, I have a new solenoid expander in there (under pf)
You'd have to activate the solenoid expander and then ground the tab. Grounding just the tab fires the main solenoid.
Any ideas on an intermittent kickout hole behind the 8ball? Sometimes it kicks out and sometimes it is just DOA.
Quoted from TonyP66:Any ideas on an intermittent kickout hole behind the 8ball? Sometimes it kicks out and sometimes it is just DOA.
When it kicks out, it kicks out ok (i.e. full strength)? Likely the leaf switch for that coil needs cleaning and/or gap adjusting.
Quoted from slochar:While you could conceivably add it it voids the lifetime warranty so most people don't try.
Quoted from frenchmarky:Don't think so. I have an Altek in mine from oh maybe 3 to 5 years ago and it just has the standard EBD code, no Oliver DELUXE code, no bonus bug fix.
That’s a shame because the scoring fix and added Deluxe skill shot seems like it would be well worth it.
Quoted from phillyfan64:That’s a shame because the scoring fix and added Deluxe skill shot seems like it would be well worth it.
Sell your Alltek and buy a Weebly MPU board.
Quoted from Quench:Sell your Alltek and buy a Weebly MPU board.
Hmm. Considering it.
Quoted from phillyfan64:Hmm. Considering it.
I sold mine and bought the weebly because of all of the great work by Oliver. While I havent heard of him in years he did great work on 4 classics that I use as a valid working game test when something isnt booting. I like Centaur 27 and EBD 32 but there is also an Embryon 9 and Fathom 5 if you need them.
https://nvram.weebly.com/uploads/5/4/2/5/54255141/09.17.21.combo.pdf
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/97 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.