Looking for a non-burnt, working 7-digit display for my EBD that I am selling at Pinfest. Thanks.

How can you tell between the 81 vs 84 version?

Backglass is smaller and swings out when you open the head. Different, particle board, cabinet (sucks)

Under playfield has lamp boards (this is a plus).

The '81 is my preferred one, followed by the 84, and the LE last. That cab is fine for MMPM and RF, but anything else it was used for C2 and EBDLE I don't like (although it is shorter, so fits under a flight of stairs better)

The apron and backglass frame are black on the ‘84, as is the front of the cabinet. ‘84 also uses decals (rather than paint) on the exterior with slightly different colors/design.

Also, because Bally was too cheap to print a similar but different manual for the '84 version, some wire colors are different from the schematic on an '84. Makes for a swift pain in the ass when diagnosing problems.

Aw, the cost cutting years for Bally, while trying to bounce back after the
big crash of 1982. Corporate restructuring during this period would give Bally
a small boost in new game designs, eg. TNT series...
Williams time to come to prominence has just begun.

For a 1984 EBD: Could someone take a pic of the inside of the head on their '84 EBD for me? Specifically, the latch that is on the inside end of the lockset that releases the swingout backglass/lightboard housing. It must be a hook of some kind and perhaps I can cut one out of sheet metal, but I sure would like to know what it looks like. Thanks.

Pardon my shameless self promotion.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball/00577-backbox-latch-cam

Just placed my order for one. Thanks, Shawn!

Played a game today needed the one ball to complete rack.... Backhand from right flipper to one ball into the eight ball.

Nice.

I prefer the 81' version as well, but I got both of my LE and CII for about half the cost of their OG counterparts. At the end of the day, when I'm playing, the cabinet is the last thing on my mind. Plus it grows on you.

SS newbie question. In looking back, it seems like the 1981 EBD came with linear flippers but many favor the older style non-linear. Are the flippers in this picture the non-linear, and if so, how can you tell? Many thanks.

Screen Shot 2022-04-20 at 6.16.19 PM (resized).png

Those of use who were alive and playing pinball when these machines were new differentiated the three versions of Eight Ball Deluxe as follows:
1) 1981 Original Bally Version was called "The Bad Guy Machine or Ghoul Machine" because of the mean-looking ghoulish figure holding a pool cue on the backbox.
2) 1982 Limited Edition - there were a few of these around but not many. We really didn't have a name for this goofy but very playable version
3) 1984 The so-called "Classic" version - we used to call this version "The Nice Guy Machine" because unlike the 1981 version, the 1984 has a normal-looking guy with a wedding band on his finger holding the pool cue on the backbox.

It should be noted that both the 1982 "Limited Edition" and the 1984 "Classic Edition" both used the same score cards that said "Limited Edition" on them.

This is a linear-style Bally flipper assembly. Even at a quick glance, they are very easily differentiated.

873A473B-6780-4828-8077-139130F35A54 (resized).jpeg

The ones in the pics are linear mechs, but they have been changed to the earlier style. The linear mech and earlier style baseplate share many parts. The nyliners should really be removed from the ones in the pic.

The parts that get changed are the pawl, the link, and the plunger. You have to add a spring as well.

Rebuild the linear flippers properly and the machine will play exactly as designed back in 1981. Once you switch to the older-style flippers the game no longer plays as intended. It's different. Of course if you weren't alive in 1981 you won't know any difference so it doesn't really matter. For myself however, I remember exactly how these games played back then having spent thousands of quarters on them and like mine to still play the same as they did back then.

Call me a "purist" if you like. I have no problem maintaining my linear flippers and they all work perfectly. I will never get rid of the linear flippers on any of my machines from the era. I like them.

I like them too. I won't change mine either. I've rebuilt the linears and they work great.

Thanks... My next pin will hopefully be an EBD, and I always wanted to some day have a HEP restored machine. A pinside friend texted me when one came up... HEP restored 10 years ago and local... 30 min from my home. That picture is from that listing. I talked to the owner and he was not sure of the flipper details on his machine, but I remember seeing on the HEP website that Chris changes to the non-linear.

When I called the seller back, I was told that 2 hours after we first spoke, that machine sold for 14.2k and I guess it is still pending because although paid for, it has not yet been picked up - shipped. I was hoping the machine would have been available to me at not quite that high of a price point, but oh well. Thinking about what to look for when something comes up in the future.

This is mine. The nyliner should be removed? Why?

689F498F-D242-4EC3-8A2E-41A597F959CA (resized).jpeg

The pic the other person posted is the linear mech but with the earlier pawl link and plunger. Nyliner not needed there.

Oh ok, I was looking at the wrong picture. Thanks.

You want to set dip switch 30 on the CPU board to OFF. This will disable the attract mode voice/sounds.

New problem - was happening occasionally but now every time I turn it on. Game boots normal, but when I go to start a game the one ball drops instead of the ball getting put into the shooter lane. I see those two solenoids are on the same line... perhaps I need to check the bulb under the play field? Or maybe something deeper? New to me but I am sure someone out there has seen it.

Shawn

Yep that's your first step make sure bulb is incandescent and lighting when solenoid expander active.

Yes, it means that the solinoid expander is not functioning properly.

The most common cause is that the bulb underneath it has burned out. However, if you say it used to happen occasionally, and now it happens all the time, it sounds like maybe the expander itself is faulty, or maybe there is a wiring issue.

And as slochar said, do NOT replace this bulb with an LED - it needs to stay an incandescent.

Yep. Bulb is fine. Looking at the expander. Everything works as it should in solenoid test mode...

I'm not sure if the SEB actually does anything in test mode. In the "burn in" test, the SEB relay will(should) click in unison with the feature lamps flashing. Check the header pins on the SEB for cold solder joints.

If the drop target drops instead of the outhole kicker then the problem is the +6.5 volt DC.
The lamp bridge has a small ac ripple in it.
1) Put the game in lamp test.
2) If you here the solenoid expander relay chatter.
--- then the lamp bridge is going bad.

Which bulb is this? I just did all led on mine but it didn’t play before.

It's under the playfield next to the expander board.

for those of you looking for a decent back glass.

Parts - For Sale

Eight Ball Deluxe back glass Archived

New (selling multiple) - “Unused CPR back glass. I bought this from them 2 years ago but didn't open it until recently. Back glass does have issues with flaking in some spots. One main area of flaking is a...”

2022-07-19

Mountainside, NJ

JerseySteve

140 (OBO)

Archived after: 42 days

Viewed: 229 times

Status: Not sold

I went all led :/ remember which one?

B287A76F-189C-47CB-B74F-F7C8B3936259 (resized).jpeg

Probably the one pointed at the apron illuminating nothing.

Yup. Mine is mounted horizontally on the underside of the playfield looking like it does nothing.

On the 84 it just kind of hangs out. Literally. After messing with/checking the bulb and seeing successful light and solenoid tests it seems to have resolved itself and works as it should. We shall see.

369228B7-4F1F-4D17-BDE2-4ABDE67EB2D8 (resized).jpeg

Aaaaaand nope. It's back again.

Nothing ever "resolves itself". lol

You need to, 'stop talkin and start chalken'

Looks like the cover is off the expander relay. That exposes the relay contacts to dirt so your fundamental problem may be the relay needs to be replaced.
As for the load lamp, it's a 22 gauge blue wire that comes off of pin 2 of the expander board. I think I see a dark blue wire in your pic. I recommend following the wire to the bulb but it does appear to go to the bulb under the apron. If you have an LED there put a regular bulb in place.

After you make your fixes, put the game in lamp test and the bulb and relay should flash and click like an old-school auto turn signal.

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Flaky connector?

I ordered weebly's replacement solenoid expander, to replace the one where my relay is missing the cover. I need to finish repinning connectors, and put the incandescent in the 1 light socket. I appreciate everyones help!

I've repinned most of the main harnesses. I'll next look at the board pins and plug. I watched the relay during the lamp test and it goes just fine. The CPU and solenoid board are newer versions so I'll check the older stuff first.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and suggestions.

Shawn

Examined the SEB, connector, etc. Found all to be good and solid. Reassembled and game played as advertised. I'll troubleshoot more when the problem returns.

You usually can't tell if the connectors are good by simply looking at them. The problem will most-likely reoccur until you replace the bad connector(s).

True enough. I’ll replace when I get back from Zapcon next week.

You can always test your connections with a DMM if you really wanted. Some people just replace them altogether for reliability, and with the SEB, it's a small enough connector. But reflowing solder and testing with a DMM should make you informed enough.

Anyone know where I can get a new playfield for eight ball deluxe 1981? Not an overlay.