Stainless steel tig welding rod gets you the right look. Polishes up nicely.

What's the diameter of those rails?

I use them too. .093 diameter is perfect. You need a good wire bending tool though.

Picked up a original EBD yesterday. Needs some work, but excited to fix it up and hopefully put it on route!

Hi, we have been working on an EBD restore/playfield swap. 44 sockets replaced the 555s. Cabinet redone, etc.

Now that it is back together it is blowing fuses F1 & F5, so GI & insert lighting. First was to disconnect coin door. Yesterday I went through the whole under side checking for shorts, found one & fixed it, went through the rest of the lighting underneath with a fine tooth comb & all checks good. Backbox lighting also checks fine. Still blowing F1 & F5, they blow simultaneously after about 30 seconds on with slo-blo fuses. At this point we yanked most of the GI bulbs and the insert bulbs that are not lighting, like outlane specials, upper left special & 9, 12, 14 rack.

I am now suspect of either the lamp board or the lamp auxiliary board.

Any thoughts or suggestions at this point are appreciated.

Divide and conquer like Clay used to say.

Unplug the J1-J4 connectors on the rectifier to verify that its not on the board

Then plug them in 1 at a time to see if its in one or 2 of those wire bundles. Once you know the bundles then look at wiring diagram to figure out where to look next

I believe the gi fuses should be fast blow fuses 20A? Maybe you have the wrong fuses? I think one fuse is for pf and the other for backbox gi. If both are blowing perhaps its a bad rectifier on the power supply? Also check the fuse clips as they are known to overheat and tarnish.

Didn't see any pictures. Was going to super band the game, did everyone just stick with white pf rubber and yellow on flippers? Any color look good for the game?

Thanks both for the suggestions will give a try.

I prefer Titan silicone rubbers. They have many colors. I have not tried them on ebd yet.

Transparent might be a good choice. They pick up the color of you gi lamps.

Did my '84 in all red Titans, flippers too. Looks great to me!

Shawn

Pics?!?

Sure!

IMG_2784 (resized).JPG

IMG_2787 (resized).JPG

Oh dang, ya red looks good

Candy apple red flipper bats with white Titan silicones on mine, for that little extra pop of color.

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I went blue for the flipper rubbers, acorn nuts for the plastics, and the pop bumper skirts. Plus blue cab interior accents and blue flipper buttons.

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DANG IT, they all look good! Thanks everyone!

JUST came to ask about doing this. Luckily the broken inlanes were in the coin box. I was going to order a new plastics set (is CPR the best/only one?)
So just melt them out the old plastic, straighten and potentially use a punch or screw them back in...shouldn't be too bad. Thanks!

For a flipper rebuild, PBL has the bally kits, but not the double stack switch for the lower left flipper. Is there a way to just make one, two of those switches together? Marco is out of all the pre done switch stacks.

I use this

https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-secondary-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html

AH perfect, so it just adds on. Excellent. Thank you

Just got the 1984 version. More pics when it's together. PF is in great shape with what looks like day one mylar, but I'm concerned about the cabinet decals. Is there a set of leg protectors that will help protect them? Someone in another thread said that the plastic ones aren't good for decals.

EBD_1984 (resized).jpg

Anyone have a stencil kit they don’t need about to do a cabinet swap with a Harlem globetrotter cab I got at Allentown last year. After I sand and repaint stencil it into an ebd I will have something nice. New playfield was put in last year and good back glass combined with sweet new cabinet I’m excited. I’ve transformed this rat rod ebd into quite the looker. Been playing it for over 10 years now it’s becoming a show piece.
Thanks
Al

Parts - Wanted

WTB: EBD ball gates Archived

Wanted! - “Looking for the two ball gates show that are located at the top left and right corners of the playfield. Needed to complete this machine to sell at Allentown.”

2022-03-21

Jarrettsville, MD

Alan_L

Wanted

Archived after: 8 days

Viewed: 74 times

Status: Not sold

Really need these badly! Thanks for looking.

one of the worst case scenarios, you can take the worm clamp section of solid, bend your own bracket, and then PBR sells piano wire to make gates out of. Just an idea if you need plan B to get them done.

Couple questions...

Is there a list of springs needed for this game?
I have the flipper rebound ones in the rebuilid kit(s), but what about the slings, pops, drop targets, and that upper kicker?

Coil sleeve for the drop target resets? They look huge and not metal?

I have the manual and cannot find any part breakdowns to verify the parts needed.

This may help:

http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/bally-classic/parts-catalogs/Bally-Parts-Catalog-1981.pdf

I double up on the felt leg protectors from PBL. His are thicker than others I have bought from other suppliers. And they don't take away from the full view of the cab once the legs are on like those plastic ones do. I also use the plastic washers under the bolt heads to protect the legs from the bolts digging into them.

Yes that helps!! Thank you!

Thanks for the reply, but could you perhaps expound on the above a little bit? No comprende.

Ya! I had to make one for black knight. Let me see if I can find it.

Dang, I didn't document it well. Sorry, But:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-clubmembers-only/page/33#post-4799028

You take a long worm clamp, cut the solid section, then bend to the size/shape you need. Drill holes for the gate/spinner and for the posts. I'll see if I can find the result.

can't find more pics. but I copied the one that didn't fit, and bended it longer. Measured where holes should be for the gate and drilled with a tiny bit. Kind of specific to the application

OK, I got it. I just used to call that a big-ass hose clamp.

Going keep looking for the real ones but I will use that if I have to. Thanks.

I need to make one with my friend for his Flash, so I'll take pics etc.

Ahhhhh this old lamp sockets!!!!!

I’ll try to solder it back together but I don’t have high hopes

What are people using for replacement?
D35B8850-DF44-4991-A65C-9B74B4956A65 (resized).jpeg

E-120-127. Marco.

Ah good, thank you.

Yoppsicles if you want a permanent fix that will likely offer a lifetime of reliability.

I didn't notice before but it looks like somebody already replaced a few sockets so the E-120-127 will be very similar to those. Since the wedge base socket is NLA, this is the best alternative.

I don’t want to spend that much time replacing them unless I swap playfields. I’d rather swap a socket or handful before doing them all :/

Yeah even with new sockets you'll have some percentage of unreliable ones. My OCD pretty much requires me to use Yoppsicles on any new game I'm shopping.

I'm hoping the Yopps come in colors some day.

I'd totally do the Yopps but trying to get this on route asap for a ok price. If I do a pf swap then totally see it being the way to go. They do look handy and I've heard good things! In the middle on EBD it is a cluster f of lights though.

Is this normal on the left? I was pulling the pf out to lift up andddddd whoopsie it didn’t have a rail to slide on

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It look right to me. You have to lift the pf and place the bottom edge into that notch. Not much to work with and that piece is usually beat up. I made new ones when doing restores.

Yes it is. This quite uncommon for Bally SS games, and it is really not convenient, but it is historically right. I guess there are to many components close to the edge to supply a convenient rail there.

Looks to me like you're missing some wood there. Here are some shots of my 1984 EBD lower cab interior while I was putting it back together after a repaint and hardtop install.

IMG_8448 (resized).jpg

IMG_8449 (resized).jpg

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Mine is identical to yours. There are assemblies in that area that would sit too close to the rail, if there was one there. If you need to slide the PF forward, there's no need to lift it to relocate. Just support the left side firmly, at the same time keeping the PF weight on the right-side rail while you slide it, until you can safely distribute the weight on the side rails on both sides. Do the same thing to return it to its rested position.

Your cab is different than the 81 version, actually improved. I don't know why they even have the wood blocks, later games just have a pivot bracket and hangers at the front of the pf.