If it helps, here's a picture of my working drop target bank on my bench getting new targets (a couple of years ago).

IMG_8772 (resized).jpg

The CN-31-2000 coil doesn't come with a middle lug. Someone's installed the second isolation diode to make it CV-31-2000 like, but didn't wire it properly. The grey-red wire should be where the diode leg is at the middle lug location (just like the 1,9 coil is wired and as shown in @Mathazar's picture).
Otherwise you may notice when the saucer and outhole coils activate, that 2,10 coil will weakly activate along with others at the same time.

Thanks to slochar Mathazar and frunch I understand what is going on with and how to wire the 7 bank. Looking at the schematic I also now know I need new outhole and saucer coils as mine are the AN type that look like transplants. Thanks.

Also thanks phillyfan64 for the link, I had missed that somehow. Also found what I think will work for a link on the 7 Bank. Just need the yoke as PBR said they don't have them.

Very productive post.

Kenny

The CN coil is a 2 lug coil, so no broken lug. Whoever replaced it probably couldn't get, or didn't have the CV coil. But they knew enough to add the extra diode for the SEB. If it is working ok and all the other coils in the game are working as intended, leave it be.

For future reference, the following solenoids are controlled by the SEB and should have 2 diodes on the coils. Outhole kicker, upper saucer eject, inline target reset, 1/9 ball memory coil, 2/10 ball memory coil and horseshoe target reset( 2 coils on same circuit). All of this is shown on the coil schematic in the manual.

I gave in and moved EBD inside from the new shop (my heater isn't working...blah) because it's cold AF out and I was tired of it being >< this close to being done but sitting and not being played.

So, Fun stuff...I absolutely cannot level this thing on both playfield *and* cabinet. One has to be goofy for the other to be right. I didn't *THINK* there's anything wrong with the way the side supports are positioned, but clearly something isn't right inside the cabinet. So..Add that to the eventual list of things I need to deal with, I guess.

I'm almost done with it (for now), but I think a new aux lamp board is going to be on my list of things to order. Seems I'm having issues with several lamps tied to it. I still have nearly a full notebook page full of tasks that I need to do--some certainly more urgently than others. I'm just ready to play it for a bit, though...

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Has anyone ever heard of 1984 EBDs being with copper spoons in their pops that are slightly different length than the plastic ones?

I restored my '84 EBD about two years ago. During the pop rebuild phase, I replaced all of the spoons. The ones I took out were worn and cruddy enough to make me think they were original, and they were all plastic.

Thanks for all the help so far on my EBD project . I would like to ask you if my game came with the correct hardware to hold the plastics on the top half of the playfield.

Here is a picture of my game currently with the exact same hardware that it came with. There is only one machine post screw/stud for all that plastic. Looking at the plastics there appears to be an opportunity for 2 more which I have circled in red that are currently machine screws. Here is a link to an example, it could have a screw or a stud base https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5012-02.html

What does you game look like? Where are the machine post studs/screws on your game with a wood screw or machine screw bottom?

Thanks,

Kenny

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I picked mine up the same way! I added a couple in the exact same places you circled, though on the right, I added one to the eight-ball lane to give it a more symmetrical appearance. I honestly can't remember why I didn't use one behind the mini post though. Hmmm....I might have to investigate further. Also, can't remember if they were wood or machine screws, since I just replaced what was in there with a post with the same thread pattern.

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I also added one here, if for no other reason than to make the plastic easier to remove, but since the left side plastic right above the sling has two, it made it look a little more symmetrical.

IMG_5974[223] (resized).jpg

Dakine747 thanks for the pics I picked up a few of each type of post to try a few things out also

Does anyone in here have an extra EBD lower apron and shooter gauge? Or better yet, a reproduction one they decided not to use? PM me if you do.

Is yours an '81 or '84? A number of different parts suppliers sell an overlay kit for the apron and shooter gauge for the '81. It's a custard-colored overlay with black trim. The '84 model, which had a much lower production, has a black apron with red trim and says "Bally Midway" in the corners. I haven't found anyone who has produced an overlay kit for the '84. If you find someone who sells them, please post here. I could use one too.

Me too!!

Mine is the 1983 LE version in the funky cabinet. The apron should be black with red and gold lettering. I’d be happy with the black one or the custard one in original condition or a repro custard colored one. I don’t care for the apron decals that are available, they are of poor quality IMHO. I picked up a repro Fathom apron…those things are nice! I imagine the custard colored EBD repros are the same but they are sold out at the usual suppliers.

The problem with the repops from what I saw was the color was wrong. Too stark white and not enough "custard". Still better than nothing or a trashed one.

I'm gonna need to redo my 81 at some point. I dropped the PF while trying to add some putty to one of the corners and put a nice big scrape in it. Luckily it wasn't perfect before that but.. yeah.

Is there a stencil by chance? Might as well paint it along with the rest of the cab when it's time.

Pinball pimp makes a nice kit for ebd

I think KSUWildcatFan is looking for an apron stencil as opposed to a cab stencil. I've not seen any apron stencils....might have to strip/re-paint and apply a decal kit (I've seen the decals around, quality varies).

Being that EBD is my first pin I have been reading about general pin maintenance etc. I have read about playfield protectors and am assuming these are for the edges of the playfield around objects. Is that correct? Do any of you use them on your EBD? Is it overkill on a home machine? Any input appreciated as I love my EBD!

I used a playfield protector on my EBD (and my Black Knight) as a stop-gap before I installed a hardtop over the beaten playfield. A playfield protector will accomplish a few things:

1 - actually protect the artwork on the playfield from further deterioration as the ball constantly rolls over compromised areas of older machines

2 - speeds up and smooths out the ball action on worn playfields with scratches or other kinds of physical damage that would interfere with the trajectory of the ball

3 - mitigates, substantially, issues with sunken inserts (especially true on older machines that have decades of incandescent lamp time slowly melting away the plastic inserts from underneath).

There are people who love playfield protectors and people who hate them. I fall somewhere in the middle. Since I have no skills or equipment to repaint and restore a playfield (nor do I want to mess with clearcoat and the safety precautions and patience needed to apply it), protectors were a great stop-gap to turn my player-quality machines into something more enjoyable until such a time that I could install a hardtop or swap with a CPR repro playfield.

Agree with Mathazar on all points. I use them on my Bally Playboy and my Skateball to preserve the playfield art. My EBD, Centaur and Fathom have CPR restos, so regular waxing makes their use redundant. Keep in mind that if used with your EBD, you may have to raise your inline drop targets or increase the pitch of the machine, since slower balls might get hung up there.

I always appreciate this community!

Can someone please take a pic of the 2 lower flipper coils. I am trying to make sure my wiring is correct before o turn the game on. Thanks so much.

Like this?

IMG_9868 (resized).JPG

Yes. Thanks.

I have a CPR playfield I am using for a swap. The details seems to be pretty poor. Look at the difference in the gun details. I am starting to think I should should restore the original. What do you guys think? Is this just a "get over it, don't be so picky" situation? The website said this was the "completely remastered in 2020" version.

I'm sure this has been discussed before, so I'm sorry if this is kicking a dead horse...

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CPR uses a "heavy hand" in their reproductions. The low resolution destroys
all fine detail. The inking process is very heavy. The wood they use is very hard
and brittle. I am finding out the hard way, how to readjust, what I can and cannot do
on their playfield swaps...

the artwork that cpr uses for the eight ball deluxe was in "film separations" form provided to them from Fabulous Fantasies (Herb) and Herb had commissioned Sperling ( an artist ) to do that reproduction artwork well over 20 years ago.....it's borrowed artwork, cpr did not do the artwork themselves.

My honest opinion, is that their should be several scans of different playfields used for
artwork reproduction.
I have two old EBD playfields. One is a later remake Bally did, and the detail is way off
compared to the 1980's run of the game.
If CPR is trully smart, they would go back and redo the final key line art using the
1980's playfields; as well as other fine detail areas.
The best reproduction of EBD was Illinois Pinball... They had the OEM screens.

Looking for guidance on an EBD problem that just started occurring for me. System has been rock solid since I restored it a couple of years ago and since then it's been virtually trouble-free under almost daily use.

Last night, the 7 Drop Target bank stopped resetting and the saucer behind the 8-Ball Target no longer kicks out the ball. All other coils are working (slings, flippers, outhole kicker, 4 Drop Target reset, single drop target reset, pop bumpers, etc.).

Thinking/hoping that both issues are tied to the same root cause, I at first thought maybe power wasn't getting to those coils (they share the same wire). No such luck - continuity checks out fine between both coils and A3J5-10 on the SDB. Plus which I'm measuring 55VDC at each of the coils.

The 7 Drop Target Reset and Saucer go to the Solenoid Expander Relay, but so do the 4 Drop Target Reset and Outhole Kicker (both of those work). Can a Solenoid Expander Relay "partially" work?

Any suggestions on what I can try next?

EBD Coil Schematic (resized).jpg

Check that the incandescent bulb that adds a load to the solenoid expander isn't blown out or an LED.

Continuity Q8 SE9302, CR8 1N4004, U3 CA-3081. Cold solder joint J5 pin 10.

CPR doesn't care. It's not even worth trying with them..buy what they offer or don't, but the whole meteor fiasco tells me all I need to know about them. Jmo.

When you go into the solinoid test, does the drop target reset and kickout fire?
If they do, then it's probably a switch issue and not a solinoid issue.

Looking at the schematic picture you posted they are on opposite sides of the relay so I would look at J5 pin 10 like suggested as they both have that in common. wire color 85 look for continuity from solenoids to the drive circuitry (like already suggested) by vec-tor

And yes, if a relay fails. The side that is connected when the relay is not energized works usually and the other side is toast. In this case its somewhere else if Im reading that schematic picture correctly.

File this one under "duh". I even pulled the J5 connector off of the Alltek SDB to check pin continuity back to the coils, and didn't notice this (in my defense, the family is trying to watch a movie in our rec room, where my pins are, and the lights are really low).

Per vec-tor 's advice, I was going to look for cold solder joints and continuity issues around Q8 on the SDB. So I pulled out the SDB, put it on my bench, and lo and behold.....there is no Q8. I found it in the bottom of the cabinet! Must've gotten hot enough to melt the solder....there were traces of solder down the board under the Q8 location from the transistor just sliding off the board. Damn surface mount!

I've got a spare SDB somewhere....will dig it out tomorrow and get EBD going again while I decide whether or not to put a new transistor on myself or send the board back to Dave and let him fix it and fully check it out.

Thank you all for the various bits of advice....much appreciated!
Alltek SDB No Q8 (resized).jpg

Note: change/check for bad diodes on the coils for that circuit.
Need to answer: what caused the Q8 to go bad.

Here is a question for the EBD group. I am in the middle of doing a hardtop for my EBD, and thought that I might make mine unique by using the translucent starburst inserts (also as of this time there doesn't seem to be stock of the 1" red opaque inserts). The thought is to add a little more bling to the playfield. I know that EBD is all translucent or opaque and is right before the switch to the starburst inserts found on many of the next gen of solid states. Just curious about some other's opinions.

Imo it would look completely wrong but it's your game and if you like it that's all that matters. It may be exceptionally hard to sell if you ever decide to move on from it however so keep that in mind.

Hello. Just had a playfield swap. Checked everything I can think of. Anoyone know why after 3 or 4 games this top fuse blows. Thanks

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Intermittent short.
Wrong fuse value...

One of the things I did on my EBD, which is totally reversible, is to put a color changing LED under the star rollover up the left ally. Puts a little eye candy there with the changing colors and in two seconds, you can go back to the original amber.

I like the star burst inserts myself, mainly because they hide the bulbs from view when looking down at the pf. If you do it, I would do all star burst but IDK if they come in all the sizes for EBD.

What is that fuse for? I have the early EBD that only has a single pf fuse.

Yes would be all original, or all starburst. I have checked, all inserts are available as starburst. In fact only the 1" red opaque is currently unavailable from the main parts suppliers.

Did you ask Steve at Pinball Resource?

If that's a blue (20) wire coming off that is for the part of the feature lamp bus. Bally added separate 10A fuses for the playfield feature lamps. They split the feature lamps into 2 groups, each protected with it's own fuse.

Looking for a few parts to finish my EBD playfield to get this machine to Allentown.

The two ball rollunder gates at the top of the playfierld.

The two 3" wire ball guides between the inlanes and outlanes. Would rather have the original finish as opposed to piano wire.

The metal ball arch that goes from the upper right side and straight into the top left-hand corner.

Thanks for checking,

Alan

I'd use a buffing wheel.