Quoted from Staythirsty:Perfect thanks! Can’t wait to get this beauty up and flipping
[quoted image]
You’re welcome. Nice! Good luck with it.
Quoted from Staythirsty:Perfect thanks! Can’t wait to get this beauty up and flipping
[quoted image]
You’re welcome. Nice! Good luck with it.
Just picked up a fun looking project for the summer. I’m sure I will have questions and will ask for pictures and a few missing parts but do have a question where I am stuck now.
I rebuilt the rectifier and now have good voltage. I did not know I needed .084 connectors but luckily those are what Atari vids used so got there without the usual purchase.
Where I’m stuck is the 24 position .062 connector from rectifier to SDB is burned. I now know they appear to be made of unobtanium. Does anyone have a source for these. If not what 24 pin connector are you using these days?
If I get this to fly it will be my 5th save from the complete dead but first Bally behind FP, Flash, HS, and Stars.
Thanks for any insight
Kenny
02D7D4B9-89BF-4B22-814E-8236A539AD8A (resized).jpeg7545DD22-D24C-4B39-8F41-337B97339D78 (resized).jpegQuoted from KJL:Does anyone have a source for these. If not what 24 pin connector are you using these days?
Wow...unobtanium is right. I haven't looked for a while but I just checked my go-to's (Mouser, Great Plains, DigiKey) and they have nothing. Maybe reach out to Third Coast Pinball shop here on Pinside. He makes and sells Bally coin door cable harnesses that use the same or similar plug. Maybe he has a source?
Shawn at Third Coast posted a couple months ago that his supply ran dry. I haven’t seen (or asked) if he’s found a new supply yet or not.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-wire-and-harnesses/page/3#post-6222780
Quoted from Staythirsty:Perfect thanks! Can’t wait to get this beauty up and flipping
[quoted image]
Please put the right flipper bats in your game! Mech talk aside, I think we are all on the same page as far as flipper bats go.
Quoted from KJL:Does anyone have a source for these. If not what 24 pin connector are you using these days?
The best option right now is to go with a 15 and a 9 connectors. If you need help give me a holler. I'm happy to help.
Shawn
Mine had double steel guides on it since the 80s, I never knew the bottom ones were supposed to be plastic. Dug the plastic one out of the coinbox from when I had installed a complete plastics set and put them in. No ball hop on mine and I think they look much better the way they let all the lamps' light come thru but probably not worth buying a whole set unless you've got some other cracked/broken pieces.
Many years ago, I made my set of return lanes out of thick sheet of polycarbonate.
Never had a problem with busted ends.
Hey EBD gang:
Does anyone happen to have a spare shooter gauge in their parts bin? Maybe you upgraded to a new apron set when they were available and don't need your old one? Mine was crushed in a rotisserie accident.
Not looking for perfect, this is a player's game.
Thanks all
ebdgauge (resized).jpgQuoted from Thunfisch:I think I now have one of the most beloved and possibly the most hated pin of the Bally SS area side by side together - and I think they make a nice pair [quoted image]
I've seen pics of Speakeasy before but never really knew that those targets were 'flyaway', I figured they were just flat targets or something. After watching a video I can't decide if they are a great idea or kind of lame. Targets that let the ball go right thru them from front or back is pretty cool... but with no real satisfaction of, you know, *hitting* them (as if they were just holograms), and swinging and flopping around all the time. They somehow don't seem 'pinball-ish' to me. :/
Quoted from frenchmarky:if they are a great idea or kind of lame
Flyaway targets are funny. People hate Speakeasy because of its add-a-ball game system, especially the substract-a-ball feature within the roulette wheel.
IMG_20210706_220627 (resized).jpgHello to this awesome community! I am lucky enough to finally be able to get my first pin and one of my favorites an '81 EBD. I purchased it and had it restored and could not be happier. I have been lurking here and am blown away by the talent all of you have in restoring and although I am not that mechanically inclined am glad to see some folks say that 2 years ago they could only change a bulb!
The person who restored my machine did not reply mess with the coin box assembly and I noticed a couple lights were out. I took a look and one of the leads to the bulb assembly had broken a solder joint. Now that I can reflow haha. But looking at it I think the socket has seen much better days and may just be bad as well. Would someone be kind enough to tell me the best place to order a new one?
Here are some pics and again, so happy to be here!
IMG_0271 (resized).jpgIMG_0272 (resized).jpgIMG_0273 (resized).jpgIMG_0274 (resized).jpgIMG_0275 (resized).jpgVery Nice EBD.
Quoted from TonyP66:Would someone be kind enough to tell me the best place to order a new one?
Since your location is "unknown": Assuming you are somewhere in North America: I have heard that Americans use to buy at Marcos: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PFLD-LSOCKET
This is what you need for the coin door but Marco is currently out of stock. This is a specific socket for coin doors that has the bracket insulated from the terminals.
I’m not sure that’s the right one. There are two very similar looking sockets but the E 120-162 must be used for coin doors because of how it’s insulated. The other type will short if used on a coin door. Been there done that.
I would email Pinball Life and ask them since they don’t list the Bally equivalent part number. Or email Jimmy at Pinball Resource.
Thanks everyone, I will adjust my location for sure and check those sites. My guess is all three coin slot lights should be lit but only the left one is functional so it looks like a good opportunity to try to fix something! For the record northern IL.
None of the ones look like what I have but I would think that would not matter too much as long as the bracket lined up and there was no shorting as mentioned....
IMG_0277 (resized).jpgQuoted from phillyfan64:I’m not sure that’s the right one. There are two very similar looking sockets but the E 120-162 must be used for coin doors because of how it’s insulated. The other type will short if used on a coin door. Been there done that.
I would email Pinball Life and ask them since they don’t list the Bally equivalent part number. Or email Jimmy at Pinball Resource.
I swear I just had this conversation in another thread but I can't find it. Here's a photo of one I ordered, if it's helpful to see the insulating pads. I'm sure PBL would be happy to field the question again too.
71C1CFB0-A864-496D-B5D7-B87880291226_1_105_c (resized).jpegSince the right socket for the type of nothing-but-glass-bulbs used here was not available, in my EBD I have changed all three of the sockets in the coin door against bayonet style sockets - they are available at every pinball spare parts shop. See phote in post above. I changed all three of them just for consistency of look (only one was damaged) The other two were useful as spare parts under the playfield
By the way, the one in the link above (pinballlive) is a bayonet style as well
I like the 555's only when they go into the twist sockets. Every other application of them is horrible.
Quoted from play_pinball:I swear I just had this conversation in another thread but I can't find it. Here's a photo of one I ordered, if it's helpful to see the insulating pads. I'm sure PBL would be happy to field the question again too.
[quoted image]
It is confusing but that looks like the correct one for the coin door. The bracket is insulated.
Quoted from phillyfan64:It is confusing but that looks like the correct one for the coin door. The bracket is insulated.
+1
Quoted from TonyP66:Hello to this awesome community! I am lucky enough to finally be able to get my first pin and one of my favorites an '81 EBD. I purchased it and had it restored and could not be happier. I have been lurking here and am blown away by the talent all of you have in restoring and although I am not that mechanically inclined am glad to see some folks say that 2 years ago they could only change a bulb!
The person who restored my machine did not reply mess with the coin box assembly and I noticed a couple lights were out. I took a look and one of the leads to the bulb assembly had broken a solder joint. Now that I can reflow haha. But looking at it I think the socket has seen much better days and may just be bad as well. Would someone be kind enough to tell me the best place to order a new one?
Here are some pics and again, so happy to be here!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I don't see the wire for that socket, is it there? These wedge base type sockets are no longer available and that's a good thing since it was a terrible design. There are no springs as in bayonet, the only tension to the bulb contacts are tiny clips that corrode and weaken over time. You could probably still use that socket if you clean the contacts and give them a little squeeze with needle nose pliers but it would be a temporary fix. I'm guessing whoever restored the game kept all of the original sockets under playfield?
Quoted from Lovef2k:I don't see the wire for that socket, is it there? These wedge base type sockets are no longer available and that's a good thing since it was a terrible design. There are no springs as in bayonet, the only tension to the bulb contacts are tiny clips that corrode and weaken over time. You could probably still use that socket if you clean the contacts and give them a little squeeze with needle nose pliers but it would be a temporary fix. I'm guessing whoever restored the game kept all of the original sockets under playfield?
There are two wires, one with the plastic sheathing and another that was barely connected to the solder on the second pin. From my automotive days I am guessing any 2 lead bulb socket would work. I am definitely going to try to clean it up first to see if I can get it working. He may have used the old sockets but the rest of the lights are good. My guess is that over time I will be replacing a few things here and there so I appreciate this community and intend to become a paid member to show that appreciation.
If I cannot get it working with a resolder and cleanup I will try to get a two lead socket from Marco or another vendor. Then I want to test the coin mechs themselves as although it is freeplay I would like to have the option.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:The best option right now is to go with a 15 and a 9 connectors
Thanks, I only had 12 and 9 position connectors so I went with this type https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=147 because I could keep pin 1 to 24 mapping the same in the end.
G-P-E said they had a slightly higher amp rating per pin .They worked great and use the same size crimper but are bigger. with this repin, I now have the game booting and starting (with no sound and 3 Stern 7 dig displays)
I also have replaced the insert panel, back, bottom, playfield rests and 2 cross braces. Ouch...finally actually moving forward.
I do have 2 question for owners.
I have black over the cream on the sides and back of the head and want to know what the base color is. Are most games all cream color on the head except for the stencil part? Anyone have pics of the back ?
Also I need some of the target pivots that connect the drop target to the reset link for both regular and inline. Anyone sell these or remake them ? 3D printing? PBR doesn't have the regular ones.
Thanks,
Kenny
IMG_4686 (resized).JPGIMG_4653 (resized).JPGIMG_4645 (resized).JPGI have restored 3 of these over the years. Colors are difficult to match, especially the "cream" which actually has a green hue. The main cab base color is black. The backbox base color is cream. If you use Pinball Pimp stencils, he already accounted for this. Earlier stencil makers made the backbox stencils cream and gold when it should be black and gold like the pimp does. This added a lot more work since the backbox sides had to be painted black after painting the rest of it cream. So be careful which stencils use end up using.
I have seen the backbox trim in cream and black. I'm not sure why or if it was a change during production but IMO the cream trim sets off the backglass much better.
Also be careful when sanding the back of the backbox. It's MDF and flakes very easily around the vent slots.
Does anyone know if it is normal behavior to not award an extra ball when earning one on the left lane progression on free play? I finally earned one but it did not register and I am unsure if it is a jumper setting or how to get it to work.
Quoted from TonyP66:Does anyone know if it is normal behavior to not award an extra ball when earning one on the left lane progression on free play? I finally earned one but it did not register and I am unsure if it is a jumper setting or how to get it to work.
Check your settings via the Self Test button (use selt test button on the coin door to scroll thru settings and the credit button to set them).
Replay-XBall-Novelty (resized).jpgMod question for the LE machine. Has anybody created an art "skin" for the display area? I have the Tilt apron magnet and contacted them to see if they ever toyed with modding the display area, but their response was simply a link to a product that I already have:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/eight-ball-deluxe-magnetic-apronskin
There's eight windows on the tinted plexi display panel that need to be left as is, but quite a lot of real estate that could be used to tie-in the art of the playfield and backglass. The unadorned tinted panel looks great on Centaur II, but IMO is lacking on EBDLE. Heck, even Mr & Mrs Pac-Man got a little art treatment there.
I did an image web search and came up with nada. Has someone already tackled this area and I somehow missed it?
I'm curious of what other LE owners think... Leave it alone or Pimp It?
Tilt apron mag.jpgeight windows.jpg
I actually like it like it is, the red plastic reminds me of those light up watches that were so cool when you were young in the late 70s but I see what you're getting at and done right it could be good
Quoted from matt_adams:I actually like it like it is, the red plastic reminds me of those light up watches that were so cool when you were young in the late 70s but I see what you're getting at and done right it could be good
Is that panel screened like a glass so other than the displays and status lamps, light is blocked off?
Since it is wide, how about something like the pool table art on Eight Ball Champ's backglass? Some classy art of the side angle view of a table with the balls on it (without the dudes). Put the balls in best places where they fit in the available spots. With cutouts for the displays and Game Over etc. But I like the existing red plastic too, maybe just add the pool balls but then they would look more like pool ball stickers that were just slapped on.
Quoted from steve-o:Mod question for the LE machine. Has anybody created an art "skin" for the display area? I have the Tilt apron magnet and contacted them to see if they ever toyed with modding the display area, but their response was simply a link to a product that I already have:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/eight-ball-deluxe-magnetic-apronskin
There's eight windows on the tinted plexi display panel that need to be left as is, but quite a lot of real estate that could be used to tie-in the art of the playfield and backglass. The unadorned tinted panel looks great on Centaur II, but IMO is lacking on EBDLE. Heck, even Mr & Mrs Pac-Man got a little art treatment there.
I did an image web search and came up with nada. Has someone already tackled this area and I somehow missed it?
I'm curious of what other LE owners think... Leave it alone or Pimp It?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I have the magnetic apron and love that and as long as the red plastic is not damaged it could be interesting to see something but it would have to be like the upper back glass in my opinion.
My machine has custom art so I don’t want too many different images. But I also polished my plexi and it looks pretty good as is.
A681F0B7-3730-4701-BC5A-814612005E6E (resized).jpegQuoted from wamonkey:I have the magnetic apron and love that and as long as the red plastic is not damaged it could be interesting to see something but it would have to be like the upper back glass in my opinion.
My machine has custom art so I don’t want too many different images. But I also polished my plexi and it looks pretty good as is.[quoted image]
wamonkey - your LE was the 1st time that I had ever seen the Tilt apron magnet for EBD and the reason that I ordered one for my machine. I’d be curious to see what the game would look like with the leather image around the displays tying in the two areas. And I love your LE custom/restore (I believe your EBDLE is the nicest example on the planet)
Quoted from steve-o:wamonkey - your LE was the 1st time that I had ever seen the Tilt apron magnet for EBD and the reason that I ordered one for my machine. I’d be curious to see what the game would look like with the leather image around the displays tying in the two areas. And I love your LE custom/restore (I believe your EBDLE is the nicest example on the planet)
Thanks for the nice comments, the reason mine was the first time you saw the magnet is because I asked them to make it. They made a apron decal and I saw they no longer offered it and I said why not make a magnetic apron and they did.
I love the apron decal the leather look is so good. Tilt makes great stuff.
I don’t know how long I will keep my EBDLE, the wife doesn’t care for it but it is a beauty and I like how it is a great machine for a quick game.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:My Prize Machine
HUO EBD Survivor![quoted image]
Beautiful game
Thanks. It's the Holy Grail pin for me. I wouldn't trade it for any other pin in existence other than another EBD in nicer shape (if there are any).
My next project is to assemble a complete new playfield for it. Then I will still have the nice original unmolested playfield and a brand-new tournament-grade playfield ready to swap whenever I feel like it plug & play.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:Thanks. It's the Holy Grail pin for me. I wouldn't trade it for any other pin in existence other than another EBD in nicer shape (if there are any).
My next project is to assemble a complete new playfield for it. Then I will still have the nice original unmolested playfield and a brand-new tournament-grade playfield ready to swap whenever I feel like it plug & play.
I looked forever for a decent EBD and wasn’t into the LE but when you get the same game for half the price it was hard to pass up.
I thought I would never sell it but the wife consents on pinball if she likes the game so we have to be a team usually. She lets me buy then if it’s not a keeper I trade or sell it later. I am afraid that is where my EBDLE sits. She doesn’t have the Memories I have of the game as a kid so I understand it doesn’t speak to her like it does to me.
The new play field would take my game to the next level but also be too big an investment for the LE cabinet style so it only got a hardtop which I love - the game just pops and I have no concerns on how it plays or upkeep.
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