Wow! Great job!

Bally Copyright below the left flipper area missing? What do I win?

BTW - really nice job!!!!

no thats not it. try again!

Doh! Flipper feeder lanes are 300 points, should be 3000.

Well I went ahead and fired it up and the four bank reset properly and 7 bank reset as well .Then went into test coils and the saucer and out hole kick did not fire .
Sad thing is i have a parts EBD game and both these coils are incorrect in that one as well . The out hole kick and saucer were 2 lugs you can tell they were new and not right
So i remember seeing one of the wires right to one leg of diode thought this was odd . Now i no why someone modified the solenoid . to make it work like a three lug.....
Finally figuring things out i think i understand this logic

I have 3 EBD games all in pieces for restoration but one of the playfields is still wired. If correct the saucer coil has the 2 brown/or wires on the center lug and the 2 black/wt wires going to the lug with the non-banded side of coil. So it would be the bottom lug away from the top of PF.

Since all but the 2 coils fired, it appears that the SEB is doing it's job. It's no surprise that the out hole coil didn't fire since I'm pretty sure a 2 lug coil will not work there. The correct coil is AT-26-1200. The wiring for the out hole coil will be Brown/Or wire on center lug and Black wire on non-banded side of diode lug.

EBD is one of those games that has specific coils for certain things and must be replaced with an exact replacement. Although they have 3 lugs like a flipper coil, they do not have 2 windings. What they have are 2 diodes wired in series with a lug in between the 2 diodes. If you can read schematics and have the manual, you can see why on the coil schematic page. The SEB has 3 coil circuits on one side of the relay and 3 on the other. The extra diode blocks the current path so not to energize both coils in the circuit. Although this would be considered a hack, in a pinch you could add another 1N4004 diode to a 2 lug coil and wire it like a 3 lug coil and it should work.

The red background is missing under the 300 points.

I was thinking maybe the wiring on trimoto saucer coil looks wrong, but the diodes are set up differently than my coil for ebd. Here's mine for comparison:IMG_20210507_084639.jpg

And his:
Screenshot_20210507_083948_org.mozilla.fennec_fdroid(1).jpg

Probably not the problem though?

Mine looks like yours.

183347208_791602468158925_7849956979576298234_n (resized).jpg

Interesting... Then granted they have the same coil as we do, they should remove the diode connecting the center lug to the right lug and install a diode that reaches across from the left lug to the right lug like our coils are situated...then move the brown wiring to the center lug.

I think?

You think right
The right side diode is on the wrong lug and the brown-orange wire is on the wrong lug.

Nice!!!

I knew something looked off there, but my initial instinct was just that the wiring was on the wrong lug... after a while i realize the diodes were wired up differently than mine...

Hopefully this helps them get their game fully operational!

That is a nice PF paintjob !!!

My Centaur cab is showroom, but the pf has a few small spots down to bare wood... I've been tempted to try my hand at painting (hey - it's black & white, right?), but with my luck I'd make it worse than it is... Plus, when you paint don't you have to clearcoat, which also means stripping wax? Because I think trying to remove the wax would just eliminate more paint...

Anyway - again - nice job !!!

That was a keen observation, I missed that. But yeah it may very well be the problem. The way it's wired now shows that the coil is wired with 2 diodes in series. In theory if you study the correct diode set up, they are actually wired parallel between the 2 lugs that should be wired. Even if he moved the brown wires to the center lug, it probably will still not work and possibly fire multiple coils if it does.

thank you all for the correction I notice this was incorrect and made changes . working on getting the proper ones on order .
I stop in at a friends after work today to look at the wires on his EBD LE Wow shocker he doesn't have the correct one either so going to order extra and fix his game while im at it . so his saucer and out hole kick , are two lug with one diode but it works

ill keep plugin away at it now that I know how this game operates just gonna have to fix them all of them .. Got a package in the mail today must be my new Pinscore displays awwwwsome better get busy .. My Goal is to have this game complete up and running this week
Big thanks to everyone keep it real this is the best hobby ...

Does anyone see anything obvious here as to why I’m getting air balls off the slingshots? I know it’s not a great video. It’s kind of though without a tripod. About 5 seconds in you’ll see it pop in the air. Thanks.

I’ll try to get a better video.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2ic4nocnnhx8hs5/IMG_4356.mov?dl=0

Ball is hitting the rubber ring below the ball's center point.
Rubber ring is flex turning against the ball.

What’s the fix?

You need to give more information on the playfield surface and flipper assembly
and the sling shot kicker.

CPR playfield. Kicker assemblies and flippers are the original Bally linear style. Has the correct taller size plastic posts. 2 -1/2” rubber. Rubber probably has a few hundred games on it. New leaf switches that I added extra Bakelite spacers to it because it didn’t really line up. Has new coil stops and sleeves. However, I took it apart the other day and I noticed the coil stops are not being worn evenly. It appears the plunger is not hitting it dead on. I just replaced the nyliners and retightened everything. I thought it was better but after a few games I noticed it didn’t really help.

Edit. Actually I’m wrong about the rubber. Recently replaced it and it didn’t really help.

Yes I can see that... Is the kicker striker wobbly between the two E clips?
I have had two use contact cement to stiffen up the kicker to the plunger.
CPR playfield, does not have a cleartop added to it.
Rubber ring is set perpendicular with no twists.

I did check and there is some wobble between the kicker and the E clips.
Nothing added to the CPR playfield except wax, but that was several months ago.
There was some slight twisting with the rubber. I will straighten that out or replace the rubber again.

It looks the main issue might be the kicker wobble.

I’ll see if PBR has any of these kickers. If not I’ll try some contact cement. It looks everyone else is out of them. Thanks vec-tor.

Can you add a wave washer to the plunger to take up the slack between the kicker and the eclip?

Possibly. It’s not a lot of play, but it’s maybe enough to be causing the issue. It looks like this is a discontinued part. I see Shapeways has a 3D printed version.

The wave washers are really thin and squash pretty flat - I don't remember if they were stock on this part for a while but they should work I'd think. There's no possibility that the kicker arm is hitting the playfield triangular slot? That would cause issues.

Someone in this thread added washers under their slingshot posts so as to raise the position of the rubbers slightly and said it eliminated the airballs. So if other things don't pan out for you (the kicker itself, correct adjustment and overall condition of the sling switches etc.) you could try that. The washers made for protecting plastics would work well for that since they are transparent. They make various sizes so you can probably get the smaller ones that are the same or about the same size as the bottoms of the posts.

The left side might be rubbing the slot a little. Lousy CPR dimples. The right side which is perfectly centered is actually worse with the air balls. I’ve seem some old threads about this. Some suggestions are smaller size rubber. Tried it. Way too tight. The slings hardly scored because there was no bounce and I thought it might break the screws it was so tight. Another suggestion is washers under the posts. I tried that also. It may have helped a little but not enough for me to leave them under there.

Actually I had just posted about this while you were writing your post. This helped a little but it didn’t make the difference I was hoping for. Maybe I need a thicker washer. I used a metal one. It was pretty thin.

The 3/4" clear protector washers are about the thickness of a quarter and are virtually the same size as a post bottom, maybe 1/32" wider by my measurement of a post I had laying around here. Try testing with two metal washers or a thicker one and see if the clear ones might be a solution

I hate to keep taking the wood screws out so I just ordered some of the 3/4” clear washers from Pinball Life. I’ll report back in a few days. Thanks.

Think i have ebd overload.

I now have 3 81 ebds to deal with.
Then a semi populated 81 pf.
Then parts i need to figure out value on.

Holy crap! And in my back yard!

But you have your own ebd already.

Not when I light it on fire because I can't get these stupid pops to work right! I'm at the finish line with this project (well, aside from fixing my cab which is..mehhhh) and yet I'm stuck in purgatory on one small detail lol. For all intents and purposes my playfield is ROUGH and in need of a lot of TLC on the bottom. So many wallowed out and beat to hell screwholes.

I love ebd but I gotta ask: how'd you end up with three?!

The added washers will take away a little of the available depth of your post screws. If your screw holes are getting really worn I suppose you could shave the equivalent amount off the tops of the posts, to be safe. Also if worse came to worse you could drill the holes thru and change to post screws that thread onto a nut under the playfield (if there is blank wood under there in those spots). Not saying to do any of this, just things to consider if you're concerned about the condition of the screw holes. If they are still in good shape, probably not an issue.

Buddy got 2 basket cases. I got the leftover le. Planned on converting it to an 81.

Got a solid cab, but otherwise rough 81. Took the best of both, sold the LE.

Traded someone for two semi restored examples this weekend and a bunch of parts. The semi populated pf is surprisingly nice.

Probably keep one. Someone was interested in the original 81. Need to fix the one I am keeping (it has a connector issue among other things) and put together the one I will sell.

Sounds like you ended up with some nice stuff out of what started out as not so nice. The LE cab is a huge WOOF from me. I've taken my $600 example and dumped so much money into it (into the mid-3000 range I think)... But suppose someday I'll be less frustrated by that.. If I can ever dial it in!

After a lot of work, and with a lot of work ahead.

Spare pf is the roughest of the three.

20210509_223910 (resized).jpg

This is rough In my opinion

726-MMS-1427333522-attachment1-20150318_192237 (resized).jpeg

That's 'rough'?!

Of the ones i just got. My last le was driftwood. My basket case 81 is in similar shape to dhards.

Yeah I think I remember seeing the LE posted. It was definitely......... Something. Assuming I'm thinking of the same one, of course.

If it had been an 81 or an 84 I'd have been all over it. I'm sure the buyer was thrilled for a cheap project, at any rate.

I have a number of reproduction parts listed on my website that will take you to Shapeways to order. A number of places like Marco buy mine and place on their website at a increased cost. Items like the kicker arm I offer 2 versions - replica and upgraded replica in which I strengthen up a bit more so it should last even longer.

https://swinks.com.au/ss-parts

or a list of all the reproduction parts here
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksreproduction&sort=newest

or just kicker arm parts here
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkskicker&sort=newest

kicker arm (resized).png

I know people hate the EBDLE - but I think it is unique and with the custom art its way better than the baby poop golden brown. Mine has a new hardtop, new Alltek boards, removed the linear flippers in favor of the upgrade to a downgrade of the old style flippers. Plays great, looks great!

The Tilt graphics magnetic apron makes it pop as well.

It was a fun restore...

EBDLE (resized).jpg

wamonkey - while I was following your EBDLE restoration thread it made me actually WANT to get an LE someday and do what you did. Jiminy Christmas, that came out beautiful. Hat's off, my friend.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-super-limited-edition

Wow those are really nice looking, thanks. However I was able to find a new original pair of slingshot arms. I am waiting on delivery but I will definitely keep your site in mind for further parts.

I like the original EBD cabinet more than the LE, but I certainly don't 'hate' the latter. It's different, I like different. Plus it's still EBD.

Your LE looks great! I don't hate it either although with as awful as my staircase is, I don't think I'd ever want to try lugging one down. I'm getting more and more used to just taking everything apart and making 6 trips. Hooking some cables back up really isn't a big deal... Most of the time.. Lol

Also, you're about 3 steps ahead of me because while mine "works", it's still got lots of annoying things I need to tweak out so it's a good, fun player. Right now it's just frustrating.