Quit trying to pad your post count. We all see through it buddy!

I put a new power rectifier board in the cab the old one someone had relocated some parts and it was not booting up all the way .
There was some wire hacks there maybe that could be something .

all the coils fire in test mode

ill check the ground and report back

Here's a photo had to show her off. Hats off to hard topper What a great product

Looks like 3.6 voltage at lamp socket either side.
lamb driver board T2 and T3 show 5 voltage

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She's a beauty! Are those white caps the real deal or did you cheat like I did? I like the blue posts you used. When I went blue on mine they ended up looking kind of.... purply with LEDs near them.. So I switched to red.

I like the black pop skirts too, they give a neat effect.

Thanks KSUWildcatFan those are the real deal white pop caps i was surprised they were in this grate of shape well not broken . i tried to clean them and black paint started coming off so one has fade

i was thinking blue from jump on this one it seems to work . i liked the looks of both red and blue post ..

Man those real ones are worth a king's ransom. No way in hell I'd be ballsy enough to put those in a game! Ha ha! I was about to say though, those have the markers of the real ones, with the more squared lines and whatnot. Mine have rounded edges. It's a subtle enough difference for me that I don't mind, but a purist would pick them off in a heartbeat.

Warning if you don't know already, there is 230V present on rectifier board when powered on, be extremely careful here!!!

Start checking voltage on rectifier board TP1 should be around 6.5V DC. You should see good voltage since the board is new as you mentioned. You mentioned some hacks, can you explain? It was common practice to mount a rectifier to the transformer mounting plate and run jumper wires from the board to the rectifier. See pic.

If TP1 shows good voltage, lift playfield and measure voltage at the "shoot again" insert between the lower flippers. Blue wires at socket base is the hot side, cab ground braid is neg. If less than 6.3V you most likely have a break in the circuit. Possibly burnt pin on rectifier J1pin 8. Try buzzing out from J1 pin 8 on the plug side to the playfield where ever you see the Sw IL bus wire. It is located in different places on the PF to power up individual circuits of SW IL lamps.

If low voltage at rectifier TP1. Could be bad BR1 bridge rectifier. Or, bad connection at J6 rectifier board or bad transformer. To verify voltage off transformer, switch meter to AC setting. Carefully pull J6 plug and measure purple/black wire, should be 9.4VAC and solid purple should be 8.2 VAC.

I'm pretty sure 5V at the lamp driver is just for running the logic part of the board. All SW IL lamps are switched on the ground side of the circuit.

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I appreciate the help thanks for the write-up im going out to check it right now

This is the hack I mentioned see were tape is that's were it had remote rectifier spliced in. I think I'll put these back together hopefully that will be the solution.

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That was it there was a break on the line she's up and running in full glory. Thanks Lovef2k

Warning if you don't know already, there is 230V present on rectifier board when powered on, be extremely careful here!!!
Start checking voltage on rectifier board TP1 should be around 6.5V DC. You should see good voltage since the board is new as you mentioned. You mentioned some hacks, can you explain? It was common practice to mount a rectifier to the transformer mounting plate and run jumper wires from the board to the rectifier. See pic.

Sweet!

My solenoid expander wont click at all I swapped it out with a working one and nothing change .This was a project game I brought back to life so after getting the switch lamps up and working I thought this would fix my issue with coil expander still not working . at first the game tried to stat up but wouldn't kick ball over to shooter lane . Now it doesn't even do that . would the dip switch settings cause any wired ness ?

Thanks

Make sure the lamp next to the solenoid expander is 1) populated, 2) not dead and 3) not an LED. It must be incandescent.

checked all 3 boxes . In lamb test that like doesn't flash .

ill check volts at the light socket under play field when I get a back . looks like it should be min ^ 6 volts

The first thing I would do is verify that all the coils are correct, match the coil numbers to the manual. The expander controls 6 coil circuits, 3 per each side of the relay. The coils controlled by the expander (SEB) are: out hole kicker, upper saucer eject coil, 7 bank drop target reset(2 coils), #1 drop target memory coil, #2 drop target memory coil, and the 4 bank inline drop target reset. These 7 coils should all have 3 solder tabs like a flipper coil. If any do not, the coil circuit will be defunct. I have seen many EBD with incorrect coils, in fact I have a project game here now with a pop bumper coil in the out hole kicker, so I know why this game wasn't working w/o even turning it on.

Other thing to check on SEB J1 pin 9 needs 43VDC and pin 1 should have switch ILL power there at 6.3 VDC.

Run coil test and report back which if any coils that fire in the test mode.

I finally got some caps for the rollover and installed (thought I had the polarity right, but hell..I dunno), but I'm still not getting great results. Is it supposed to have a cap AND diode? And is the positive lead from the cap supposed to be on the leaf with the wire from the loom?

Also, suddenly my upper left flipper is now barely moving so I need to figure that switch out.... Again. Ahhh!!!

There's supposed to be a diode on the switch already. The cap gets installed on the 'center' lead (that's the one that does not have wires to the harness on it) and the lug that does not have the diode. There's no polarity to the cap on bally games although it still works if you have the polarity correct. No idea which way that would be just get non-polarized caps and put one of those on.

Sometimes the ball goes up the left lane really fast and isn't hugging the wall to press the rollover siwtch there's not a lot you could do for that since the lane would need to be moved over.

Ignore the fact that this is 100% wrong and please tell me how to fix?! I clipped the diode while debugging, I basically have no idea what the hell I'm doing on this thing at this point.

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Solder the diode back to the center lug and move the cap to the white wire. The center lug has one end of the diode and one end of the capacitor on it.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#The_Importance_of_Diodes_and_Capacitors_on_Switches

Some pics on pinwiki for double checking

Makes perfect sense, thanks for the awesome link!

Winner winner winner winner!!!

Now my entire left flipper is........jammed....or something. Time to bite the bullet and 'downconvert' them using the parts I ordered from PBR--with brand new coils--I guess.

Oh and you can see how stupid my pops CONTINUE to be...

Is there room to put a classic stern style pop in there? You already have Gottlieb parts might as well keep mixing them up!

Do you have switch caps on your pops as well? That will help sensitivity. I'd think the lightest blade possible would help I might experiment with changing this on my mystic swap. I've had issues with the bottom pop on EBD too I think it gets hammered more than the others since you're hitting it up directly from the flippers.

I've never looked back on the down-upgrade for linear flippers, linears are HORRIBLE. They last forever on location so I see why they did it. Bally should have done a take off from Williams advertising and said "less zip for the flip"

I don't think I have caps *anywhere* on this thing aside from the one I just put on the rollover but I've got some extras and I'm willing to try just about anything at this point. What's different about the stern style? I've only owned one (meteor) and that pop was actually pretty good and needed basically no adjustment. I did have brand new switches on these ebd pops. My friend had them dialed in great for HT1 but I just can't do it.

The linear trash absolutely needs to go. Right is still working currently so I guess I start with the damn left. I'll try a cap on the bottom pop and see what happens.

Could someone explain what the whole "linear-flipper" thing is?

Everyone keeps mentioning it but I don't understand. Are there two different flipper types for EBD (linear and non-linear?) How would I know which one I have?

Linear uses a long plunger that has a slot in it that the crank arm fits into. The non linear ones use a yoke on the crank arm and the plunger is shorter.

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The schematics show which switches had capacitors from factory:

EBD_SwitchMatrix_Caps.jpg

All Eight Ball Deluxe's shipped with linear flipper mechs.
Retrofitting the previous gen flipper mech just requires the older plunger/link/crank/spring. Picture of the classic Bally flipper mech below from vid1900 flipper rebuild thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/15#post-2235465

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But the "linear" one is actually the correct one, isn't it. Isn't the other one from Williams machines of a later era?

Are people just putting new-style flippers into a machine designed for old-style flippers?

Even the base plates are different sizes/shapes. From the various discussions above, I thought maybe there were two types of original flippers.

The idea is to use the previous gen classic Bally flipper parts on the same base plate. I posted it above just before you replied.

I think that technically it's the other way around - many people are replacing the "new" linears with the older "classic" design...

*Some* people are replacing the flipper mech that is not the linear design. Let's just be clear on that.

Point taken. In fact, I am one of the 'many' who retain the original linear design... Works fine for me.

Glad you're in the cool club

I am looking to get an EBD as my next game, the first new addition in 15 years. I went to play one at a collector's home arcade. The flippers did not work so well, and since then, the owner did some work on them, and said they work better. They are the original linear flippers. I was looking back on prior forum posts on the subject, and while there are those who believe in the original as that is how the game was intended to play, it seemed like the majority favored the better function of the older version before the linear flippers were used. When I get my machine when I find the right one (highly restored), I think I will want the linear flippers in a bag so stored inside the cabinet, but with the older design on the machine in perfect working order.

Me too. I’ll tell you what is annoying, I recently purchased a rebuild kit for linear flippers from Marco and the set screws and cranks were metric and smaller than the Bally ones. It really sucked. Who still sells the original standard designed ones? PBR might be the last source.

Yes, but it depends on what EBD you have (original '81 or the reissues in '83/LE and '84/Classic). If you have the '84, target height adjustment is simple....I posted how to do that a few weeks back in this thread (with photos). For the '81, you'd probably need to use shims between the mech and the bottom of the playfield to lower the tops of the targets. Not sure what mech the '83 LE has....

I wasn't in any rush to replace mine but there's no point in not doing it now I guess.

I put caps on the three pops. Can't tell if it really helped or not, it's just still so iffy. I think I'll try setting the alignment again now that those are in place.

It's weird, I have an 81 and mine sits low. So I guess I need to do the padded foam/tape under the edges of the targets so that neutral position has them raised up slightly. Not sure why yours would be that raised, I almost wonder if something is keeping the mech from dropping fully (bad coil sleeve, etc)

Just found the four bank drop coil was incorrect .only had two lugs I had one fixed that .
The saucer kicker has three lugs but I'm not sure if this wired correctly I will post photos of that one .

Now the out hole kicker only has two lugs looking for one of those.

My expander J 9 was 45.6 volts

I'll work on getting the coil test going now.

Thanks for helping

Imagine of saucers coil....

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Coil looks correct but might be wired wrong. I can't check right now I'm at work. Can you post pics of the other seb coils?

You're welcome. I wouldn't run the game until you get the correct coils in there.

45.6 V at pin 9 is good.

Drop coils.

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Did a repaint for my neighbours dad. Little artists license used. Made a mistake and honestly did not notice till the bitter end. Spot it and win a prize! Feel stupid not catching it after I correctly made the file but then cropped it when making the stencil.

Before pics

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After pics

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