Has anyone tried the set of clear plastics from Playfield Protectors? Do they exhibit the same issues?
(Topic ID: 66114)
Linked Games
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981-
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
-
Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982
Topic Gallery
Monroe Township, NJ
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Typical Marco. Color me unsurprised. PBR is a much better resource, but holy gawd the ordering process stinks lol.
Would the proper sockets for the inserts be the 6th ones down -- A2916? I figure I might be willing to do that nonsense later on down the road, like when I have the playfield out of the cab for an extended period of time so I can repaint it. Might as well order them now if so.
Yes A2916 is the correct one for the inserts although I think for these I actually got sockets from Marco. If you get these from PBR just pay attention to this drawing because it has 2 tabs. Yes, their ordering is kind of ancient. I usually just email Jimmy with my list.
5050E450-893E-48A9-9FA3-F17DFAC9F9F1 (resized).jpeghttps://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-1-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html So would these be the same, without the tab?
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-1-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html So would these be the same, without the tab?
Yes I believe so. I’m not a fan of the double tabs that’s why I didn’t get the insert sockets from PBR. I have used them in other games and they’re perfectly fine though. I think HEP uses the double tabs because sometimes he wires his games differently.
Quoted from djblouw:Has anyone tried the set of clear plastics from Playfield Protectors? Do they exhibit the same issues?
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/k-P8fMH7BUyaJZcTYDBoow?categoryid=24&category=-&name=Eight%20Ball%20Deluxe%20%7C%201981
I'd try them but shipping is bonkers.
Screenshot_20201124-202505_Samsung Internet (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:I'd try them but shipping is bonkers.[quoted image]
Yeah, the best way is to buy them with a pf protector (for a different game). But I think I've seen them on epay every now-and-then.
Quoted from djblouw:Yeah, the best way is to buy them with a pf protector (for a different game). But I think I've seen them on epay every now-and-then.
Yeah, that or a group buy of some sort. Seems like that would be kind of counter productive but at 40 euros shipping...yeesh.
Can someone post a decent picture of the left pop bumper switch wiring? The pop lights are working correctly but switch #38 is stuck on even if I isolate the switch contacts. May have goofed the wiring when I resoldered them.
Here is a pic for fresh eyes to maybe notice anything obviously not right. The blue wire coming in is actually the double green just consolidated in a solder sleeve to make my life easier.
1606335234646623358232237805028 (resized).jpg16063353846606455910441685245802 (resized).jpgQuoted from FLASHBALL:Can someone post a decent picture of the left pop bumper switch wiring? The pop lights are working correctly but switch #38 is stuck on even if I isolate the switch contacts. May have goofed the wiring when I resoldered them.
Here is a pic for fresh eyes to maybe notice anything obviously not right. The blue wire coming in is actually the double green just consolidated in a solder sleeve to make my life easier.[quoted image][quoted image]
Switch for left pop bumper is White-Brown... you have Brown-White,
which is the right pop bumper.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Yikes! I think my old ones ended up getting reinstalled for the time being. Not really sure where to go with it. Kind of the same deal with that curved plastic that apparently shouldn't be.
KSUWildcatFan - not exactly elegant, but I jury rigged mine enough that I'm happy with it until the day comes when I find properly drilled plastic lane guides.
So the new holes I drilled (because the existing ones on the new plastic don't line up with the playfield or the metal guide)....I just made them bigger. Much bigger.
Pro - it allows me to adjust exactly where I need the guide to be so that the ball transition from guide to flipper is butter smooth with no hop. Get the guide where you want, hold it firm with one hand, then screw it down into place with the other.
Con - the plastic guide rests on the bell as opposed to the bell being attached to it. That means any time you remove the in-lane guides for cleaning/etc, you have to spend a few minutes getting your adjustments right when you put them back on.
Here's a pic - I should've wiped up Dremel plastic dust before taking it. Now that I'm pretty satisfied with this approach, I may re-do the right one so that the widened hole isn't so big or offset that much that you can see it outside of the bell. Of the 4 holes I did, this is the only one that's visible. Or I may let this go as-is until I find the properly templeted/drilled guides if my OCD doesn't go into overdrive.
In-Lane Guides (Right) Annotated (resized).jpgQuoted from vec-tor:Switch for left pop bumper is White-Brown... you have Brown-White,
which is the right pop bumper.
DOH!!!!
Thanks for the help!!
All switches working great now except for the pop bumpers. They work fine but need tuning. Problem is I cant tighten the switch stacks because they mount directly into the lower part of the plastic body and the threaded holes are also plastic and are stripped out. Is there any work around for this? Or is buying new lower bodies the solution? Obviously I need new spoons too. Was just trying to get it playing for now.
received_671475070219896 (resized).jpegQuoted from FLASHBALL:All switches working great now except for the pop bumpers. They work fine but need tuning. Problem is I cant tighten the switch stacks because they mount directly into the lower part of the plastic body and the threaded holes are also plastic and are stripped out. Is there any work around for this? Or is buying new lower bodies the solution? Obviously I need new spoons too. Was just trying to get it playing for now.
[quoted image]
There should be a metal insert inside the plastic.
I see in post 3558 that somebody used wood screws to the secure the switched but in post 3562 the correct screws are installed. I would bet $ that the metal plates are still under the bumper bases. IIRC the thread for the switch screws is 4-40 machine screw about 1.125 inches long.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I see in post 3558 that somebody used wood screws to the secure the switched but in post 3562 the correct screws are installed. I would bet $ that the metal plates are still under the bumper bases. IIRC the thread for the switch screws is 4-40 machine screw about 1.125 inches long.
I would bet $ that if the "plate" is about .25" x .50" that my shop vac ate one of them when I was vacuuming the cabinet. Wasnt quite sure what it was at the time but it was about the right size. I'll see if I can fish it out with a magnet.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:I would bet $ that if the "plate" is about .25" x .50" that my shop vac ate one of them when I was vacuuming the cabinet. Wasnt quite sure what it was at the time but it was about the right size. I'll see if I can fish it out with a magnet.
Vacuum service usually costs extra!
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Do I jump on this at $550 for future use, or do I run away screaming?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That's an OEM second generation Bally EBD playfield.
If you are interested in saving it, have kruzman protect it.
kruzman
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/ebd-playfield-kit/#playfield
Get em while their hot!
Here is my restoration post on my EBDLE
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-super-limited-edition
My pop bumper cap experiment seems to be a success.
Rather than continuing to buy EBD caps at $12 bucks (or more) each (when they are available), I purchased a bunch of "plain" amber caps from Pinball Resource at $3 each. Then, I used a laser printer to print the EBD image onto 2" clear labels, and applied the labels to the "clear" caps. The results are pretty good.
The first picture shows my result on the left, with a regular EBD cap on the right (with a bunch of my broken "dead soldiers" behind them).
The second picture shows them installed on my machine.
This won't solve the problem of them breaking so often, but at least they will be much cheaper to replace when they do (and they don't have the ugly screw holes in them either).
20201205_131440 (resized).jpg20201205_133144 (resized).jpgQuoted from mbeardsley:My pop bumper cap experiment seems to be a success.
Rather than continuing to buy EBD caps at $12 bucks (or more) each (when they are available), I purchased a bunch of "plain" amber caps from Pinball Resource at $3 each. Then, I used a laser printer to print the EBD image onto 2" clear labels, and applied the labels to the "clear" caps. The results are pretty good.
The first picture shows my result on the left, with a regular EBD cap on the right (with a bunch of my broken "dead soldiers" behind them).
The second picture shows them installed on my machine.
This won't solve the problem of them breaking so often, but at least they will be much cheaper to replace when they do (and they don't have the ugly screw holes in them either).
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice work! Looks good.
I've been meaning to post this for a while, and I realized that it is visible in the picture of my game above.
If you notice the inserts of the left lane (to the left of the multiplier drop targets), my machine has the inserts for 70K and extra ball swapped.
It was like that when I got it (in 1984) and am pretty sure that it was just a manufacturing mistake.
I have not seen any other EBD playfields with that mistake, so I don't think that there was a bad run of playfields or anything. I think my playfield was just put together on a Monday.
Anybody else ever see one like this?
Quoted from mbeardsley:I've been meaning to post this for a while, and I realized that it is visible in the picture of my game above.
If you notice the inserts of the left lane (to the left of the multiplier drop targets), my machine has the inserts for 70K and extra ball swapped.
It was like that when I got it (in 1984) and am pretty sure that it was just a manufacturing mistake.
I have not seen any other EBD playfields with that mistake, so I don't think that there was a bad run of playfields or anything. I think my playfield was just put together on a Monday.
Anybody else ever see one like this?
What is your playfield like on the back underside?
Quoted from vec-tor:What is your playfield like on the back underside?
It looks "normal", meaning that there is no sign that they were ever removed/changed. I can take a picture if you think it is important, but I don't think that you will see anything useful.
It is one of the "early" EBD-LE playfields (with single lamp sockets instead of the lamp circuit boards), but I doubt that it is really relevant.
Quoted from mbeardsley:It looks "normal", meaning that there is no sign that they were ever removed/changed. I can take a picture if you think it is important, but I don't think that you will see anything useful.
It is one of the "early" EBD-LE playfields (with single lamp sockets instead of the lamp circuit boards), but I doubt that it is really relevant.
Anything is possible in pinball. People screw up, it's normal. I have seen mistakes with wiring on connectors. I bought a CPR Xenon pf that had blue inserts where the green ones go, the 4 at the top.
I also noticed 2 variations with EBD, some have translucent red inserts and some opaque.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Anything is possible in pinball. People screw up, it's normal. I have seen mistakes with wiring on connectors. I bought a CPR Xenon pf that had blue inserts where the green ones go, the 4 at the top.
I also noticed 2 variations with EBD, some have translucent red inserts and some opaque.
I was wondering if the playfield was a 2nd.
Quoted from vec-tor:I was wondering if the playfield was a 2nd.
Well, I guess that depends upon your definition of a "2nd".
It is the original playfield...not a reproduction.
If by 2nd, you mean a playfield that "has issues", then, yes.
If you mean, "sold for less money", then, no.
Quoted from mbeardsley:If by 2nd, you mean a playfield that "has issues", then, yes.
Ding, ding.
Back in the day, you had to order from the distributor for your parts.
Bally always sold you their leftover 2nds if you where lucky.
Most of the time, when ordering a playfield you would get the dreaded NLA.
Quoted from vec-tor:Ding, ding.
Back in the day, you had to order from the distributor for your parts.
Bally always sold you their leftover 2nds if you where lucky.
Most of the time, when ordering a playfield you would get the dreaded NLA.
I'm still not sure what you mean here.
The playfield that I am talking about is the original one that the machine was built with - it is not a replacement.
I believe that it was simply manufactured incorrectly, and either no one noticed, or they figured it wouldn't really matter to anyone.
TBH, I owned the machine for a few years before I realized that other EBDs were not the same as mine.
Quoted from mbeardsley:I believe that it was simply manufactured incorrectly, and either no one noticed, or they figured it wouldn't really matter to anyone.
True. I think it slipped by quality control.
Bally never wasted a playfield.
I bought a Bally Centaur NOS and it is a 2nd.
They ran out of amber inserts and used amber rollover button inserts,
because the inserts are the same size.
Just joined the club this past weekend after years of hunting for one for my collection! 
So excited!!
I'm looking for a new set of drop targets, does anyone recommend buying them from a particular place?
Also, where can i get new bumper caps with the EBD stamp on them? I'd also like to replace the outer part of the caps as well if i can get them.
Thanks!
Quoted from frunch:I'm looking for a new set of drop targets, does anyone recommend buying them from a particular place?
Also, where can i get new bumper caps with the EBD stamp on them? I'd also like to replace the outer part of the caps as well if i can get them.
Pinball resource
Quoted from mbeardsley:The first picture shows my result on the left, with a regular EBD cap on the right (with a bunch of my broken "dead soldiers" behind them).
The second picture shows them installed on my machine.
This won't solve the problem of them breaking so often, but at least they will be much cheaper to replace when they do (and they don't have the ugly screw holes in them either).
[quoted image][quoted image]
Would it be a good idea to glue the caps right away before they break ? To make them more resistant and avoid the little tabs to break ?
Quoted from matiou:Would it be a good idea to glue the caps right away before they break ? To make them more resistant and avoid the little tabs to break ?
Maybe, I just don't like the way the hot glue looks. And using more permanent glue will cause problems when you need to replace the bulbs.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Eeeeeeee!!!! Might be ready for pickup by this weekend!
[quoted image]
Those white caps are so purdy!
Quoted from Lovef2k:Those white caps are so purdy!
Man, they really are. I love love love them!
Quoted from Lovef2k:Those white caps are so purdy!
The white caps with white rings should be reproduced.
Quoted from midcoastsurf:The white caps with white rings should be reproduced.
Really does seem like a missed opportunity for there to not be officially licenced repro white caps. They look so much better than the amber imo
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I'll take the amber. You guys can have the white.
All yours, bucko!
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Really does seem like a missed opportunity for there to not be officially licenced repro white caps. They look so much better than the amber imo
You wouldn't have to license the white caps though. Only the artwork is copyrighted. You can mold the plastic out of any color you want.
One of the reason they don't do the white is the demand is low. More people prefer the amber. When I run my injection-molded parts I make thousands not one or two.
It's just like when guys ask me if I can make my plastic backglass edge trim white like early Stern machines used instead of the more-common black like Bally used. The answer is "sure I can" but I have to make a minimum amount to make it economically feasible. The minimum amount exceeds any possible amount I could ever hope to sell so I won't be doing it anytime soon. But if you were to commit to a pallet of them I would probably do it.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I'll take the amber. You guys can have the white.
Agreed....
Quoted from Gatecrasher:You wouldn't have to license the white caps though. Only the artwork is copyrighted. You can mold the plastic out of any color you want.
One of the reason they don't do the white is the demand is low. More people prefer the amber. When I run my injection-molded parts I make thousands not one or two.
It's just like when guys ask me if I can make my plastic backglass edge trim white like early Stern machines used instead of the more-common black like Bally used. The answer is "sure I can" but I have to make a minimum amount to make it economically feasible. The minimum amount exceeds any possible amount I could ever hope to sell so I won't be doing it anytime soon. But if you were to commit to a pallet of them I would probably do it.
Makes a lot of sense. Are you currently selling any parts that you make? Always looking to expand my product portfolio on my site 
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