Man I love the people in this hobby! Nice drawing! We've all had something similar!

Can someone tell me what the trick is to getting the 56,000 and 112,000 bonus? It’s listed under saucer feature and depends on switch 16 but I don’t quite follow. I never get it to light.

Dip 16 controls if you get the 2x-5x multiplied value when you go in the saucer, of the current rack + reserve bonus.

To light 56k you drop the 1-7 and 8, then complete the deluxe standups. When the deluxe is done, if you have dip 23 set to reset after completion, 1-7 resets and 56k lights directly. Otherwise, resets after drain. Ditto with the 112k, repeat the previous.

Thanks guys. I’ll take a look at it tonight and I’ll check my settings.

I'm sure this is something that others have seen. Got repro plastics for the outlane a while back and they looked fine on cursory inspection. Now that I've installed them, a significant problem is obvious. The repro has the wrong shape and once the wooden rail is in place there will be a very tight squeeze on the outboard lane. I've used a grinding wheel on a dremel to trim other plastics but would much rather get a proper fitting repro. Anybody know if these are available anywhere?? I've had metal repro's in this position on other EBD's but they block the light and aren't stock. Ideas?

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DocGar that’s weird how that tip is shaped outward. Even if you use old plastics be careful here. On mine the issue wasn’t really the plastics. I used the old plastics and it was still tight. If this is a CPR playfield you may find that the left outlane is too tight no matter what. I had to adjust the holes on mine. I didn’t want to drill new holes in the playfield, but I had to drill new holes in the side rail. I had new rails made and the holes were perfectly dead center. I had to make the new holes off center. The rail actually hangs over the edge of the playfield just a tiny bit. There’s a fine line here because you need to be able to raise the playfield without the side rail rubbing against the cabinet. You want that red vertical stripe to be visible, even if it’s just a little tiny bit. If it’s completely hidden, the lane will be too tight. This is because the artwork and holes are slightly off on the CPR playfield. The stripe on the right side is probably too visible. They really should be even but they’re not, even on a lot of originals.

You can see here before I moved the rail, the left red stripe is hidden. Picture is a little blurry but it’s the only one I have before I made the adjustment. Now about a 1/16” of the red stripe is visible. You can see the rail hanging over the edge of the playfield just a bit. It was either that or try to plane down the thickness of the side rail.
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You can’t beat a restored original that’s for sure.

That would be a good idea. There’s enough wiggle room that they could do that to avoid tight outlanes.

Also if you look closely at the artwork around the rollover wire cutouts, you can see it’s shifted to the left slightly. The artwork should have been shifted to the right an 1/8”.

Speaking of clear plastics...

Anyone know where I can get a set of the clear plastics (without having to buy the whole screened plastic set)? PinballCenter in Germany sells them, but they don't ship to the USA.

I already have an extra set of the screened plastics (without the clear ones), so I don't really want to buy another whole set just to get the clears.

phillyfan64 Where did you get those incorrectly shaped plastics? I'd like to avoid the bad ones if I can.

The odd shaped plastics are not mine. That’s DocGar. As far as getting just the clear plastics, there’s a guy on eBay that sells them. His user name is Pinballmania LLC. Last time I looked he didn’t have any listed.

http://www.pinballmania.com/

Glad you got back to me on this Philly.. Do you have a measured distance between the sidewall and the metal ball guide ? Those rails are nice and I believe you said that you had those made. Know if replacements are available anywhere (mine are fairly well beat up) ?

The rails were made by Taylor Reese. Send him a PM. Tell him I sent you. They’re great quality. I’ll get back to you on the measurement.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oak-replacement-playfield-rails-wh2o-and-taf-ready-to-ship-or-york

Philly, you just made my day ! Tnx ! As these are more or less custom, I'm thinking Taylor could likely plane these rails as necessary. How far back would you come ? A 1/16" or more ?? Tnx again..

You’re welcome. I’m thinking maybe 3/32”. I’m splitting hairs here. If you have a planer or sander you could do a little trial and error with your old set. Take a little off at a time.

Forget 3/32”. 1/16” should be enough.

I have joined the club , however non working at this moment ...

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Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the flipper mounting plate for the right sided flipper my EBD 1981?

If you are keeping the original linear flippers:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6264-134

I ordered a set of plastics and a new backglass from shay and it seems they sent me an incorrect plastic. I tried emailing them but got no response. Is there anywhere I can buy just this one piece?

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I've kicked this around a lot..SHOULD the flippers be modified? What's your opinion?

Thanks, maybe a stupid question but how do I tell if they are original linear?

There are 2 versions of that plastic. The one they sent, and the other one. They are both "correct" but IMO the swiggely one is better since it lets a ball that happens to get behind the single drop come out.

You might have to make it, well over 10 years ago you could get just the clears from marco, but I don't think they are made anymore.

Absolutely. IMO linear flippers are shit. I know why they were made originally; they last a LONG time on location without maintenance. (i.e. they will still work even after the parts (mainly the nylon button) get worn.) There's a lot of moving mass to them so effectively makes your flipper weaker. Also, the parts to replace are a lot more expensive than the earlier style.

I change all my linears to the earlier style automatically, I don't even hesitate when rebuilding them. The linear baseplate can be reused on the earlier style easily.

Linear flippers have a long metal plunger with a notch in it look at your flipper mech if you have that, it's linear. The other style is a brown fiberboard link.

Got it, thanks

I have the squiggly plastic. The other day I sent a ball up the ramp and it actually went around the 8 ball target. It happened because of that curve in the plastic. First time I’ve ever seen that happen.

Any suggestions on a game that natively used this so I can go pull part numbers from the manual to order everything?

Any game before rolling stones.... did a cursory search on rec.games.pinball as I know the part #'s were called out there but didn't spot it on a really quick look.... but at any rate, if you look in the bally parts catalogs it will show you the complete mech with all the parts. You can reuse some of the parts if they're not hammered from your linears.

Two things here. First the incorrect plastic may have been prototype and then modified because the ball was getting stuck next to the eight ball drop target. I talked to Shay about this. He said he went by the original bally drawings when he made these. Another error was the spacing for the mounting holes for the clear flipper return plastics. The spacing should be 3 inches apart. But his are 2 inches like the drawings.

Secondly, both linear and crank flippers use the same mounting plate. There is no right or left plate. They are reversible. Take a look at an assembled flipper an take note of all the extra holes not used. If you want to use a plate that was used on the left side and move it to the right all you need to do is use the virgin holes by threading in the self tapping screws that were originally used. It's not that difficult as long as you have the self tapping screws. They are usually black on Bally.

Also the screws will be going in tight the first time so be careful not to slip with the screw driver and make sure you're going in straight. I have done this many times and works fine.

Read posts 3482 and 3483

For me it's a financial question. If they need rebuilt i it's about double the cost to stay linear, but if the cranks and shafts are in really good shape then you're just throwing money at it needlessly. That said, I do prefer standard flippers especially if they have the external extension springs.

Yeah, someone should start making those again. That would make a linear flipper rebuild around $10 versus over $50 for new cranks on all 3 flips.

I just figure it's all getting rebuilt with the hardtop, might as well do it 'right' if it sucks as is.

I joined the club in post #21. 7 years later, I’m back with an EBDLE. Has anyone made a DIY 8ball shooter rod? I’ve seen the ministry of pinball one.

Not a do it yourself but I bought this from a vendor on this forum.
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https://superskillshot.com/

Marco sells the 8 ball and the rod.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/KN51368

I would never play $50-80-100 for a shooter rod with any kind piece or toy on the end.

The 8 ball is $15 and a rod is maybe another $12-15 and even that seems steep like most mods.

Thanks! Yeah, $9 for shaft and $15 for the ball. I’m with you, shooter rods for $100?

The guy I bought mine from has some really nice unique shooters that I haven’t seen anywhere else.

Looks similar to mine.

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Here is the cue ball look.

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Double post

Very cool. The other numbered balls from superskillshot look cool as well.

Can anyone tell me what length 10-32 screws I need to get for this plate? I could not find the information in the owners manual. They are tapped for 10-32 on the coil stop end.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6264-134