Must. Have.

After all the Bayonets and Bulbs were redone on the new CPR Gold

I have the old playfield and will be posting it for sale at some point
You can see it to the right of the new playfield

The old playfield was swapped at some point and looks better
then average. Would need some touch up but was very playable
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Somebody really needs to make these. That looks fantastic!

Ok I’m really confused here. I know the coils have the be unsoldered but it doesn’t look to me like these back wires come off. What am I missing here?

I was hoping to be able to replace these switches while on the bench. If anyone has closeup photos of how PBR’s replacement yellow targets are wired I would appreciate it.
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I am considering selling this playfield that was just removed from my recent EBD overhaul

I honestly do not know what value this holds but I am open to all offers

I will ship at your expense and I will not be responsible for any damage

Would like to see this help someone out on a rebuild and revive another EBD

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Eight Ball Deluxe #1268

Some better pics to show you all my Overhauled EBD. I wanted to tell you my story of why, when and how this all happened.

WHY: My older brother Russ and I used have some battles on his EBD when we were a little younger. There is just something
about this game that really does it for me compared to other Pins. Maybe, it's because I love to shoot pool and it's the perfect
combination of both pool and pinball. My brother Russ had a pretty bad stroke several years ago and when that happened
his game was sold out form under him by a friend. I do not know if it was his friends fault or his but it is gone and I don't know the
number that was attached to it. I wish I would have acted quicker to get that game but it was too late before I realized what was going on.

WHEN: I bought EBD#1268 in the spring of 2019 from a beer bar out of Cleveland Ohio for $2200. It smelled like beer, tobacco, pot and cigar
smoke when it showed up at my house. It was love at first sight for sure. Kinda like that girl you meet at a bar and you know that she is bad for you
but you take her home anyways. I still have the league tag somewhere around here with the leagues high scores on it.

HOW: I bought my first PIN (Star Trek Pro) in the Spring of 2019 from Coin Taker out of PA. The delivery crew of Derrick and Erica (Musket Hauling)
we're amazing and Derrick told me once you buy one you better be ready for another. I told him that I was looking for an EBD and the search heated up
through a friend I met in league play in the DC area. Once I secured the lead I offered up the money without even seeing the machine in person. The pics and the price were good enough for me. I thought the seller was actually in the DC area but it turned out the entire time I was talking to him he was in Cleveland Ohio. I hired musket hauling to go get #1268 and they brought it to me and I was like "This is going to be a project" but it actually played pretty nice for the shape it was in at the time.

After goofing around with it I realized quickly that #1268 needed a massive overhauling if I wanted it to play correctly. After months of gathering new parts
and a CPR Gold Playfield that I SERIOUSLY overpaid for I turned the game over to a guy that hand soldered every single Bayonet and has some secret potion that he uses on the playfield to assure there is no damage to the playfield as the game gets older. After looking at the original flyers from Bally, I decided to try and switch the typical Orange looking pop bumper cap design to the original White that came in the first batch of the game. Whether or not my game was in that batch didn't matter to me as long as it came out looking clean and original to the first batch of games. Wanted to create a classic game!

Last night I video chatted with my brother and he was simply amazed by #1268 and I can't wait for him to be able to see the game in person. He won't be able to play the game as he has health issues, but he will at least be able to enjoy the sights and sounds of our younger days when the world was a better place. If you are in the middle of redoing an EBD keep pushing forward and I can't wait to hear your story too.

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Awesome story. I like the game because I played it in the arcade with childhood friends and beat that poor game to death. Op almost threw us out one night. That was around 1982. Restored 3 of them so far...

My amusing story goes like this:

My first really nice pinball score was a Black Knight 2000, a Meteor, and my Eight Ball Deluxe, picked up at once, for $2000 March of last year. I had contacted her based on finding the Eight Ball Deluxe listing on Facebook for $1000 iirc ($500 for Meteor, $800 for Black Knight 2000) and she said she'd take an even 2 for all. My thought was that I'd keep the BK2K--surely, it was the best.. Right?!--and quickly dump the other two to recoup my investment. I was actually quite bitter about having to drag EBD home to put it together and prove it worked. No way I was keeping it, it just wasn't good enough compared to what it was 'worth'. Meteor surely wasn't any better but it wasn't worth anything so who cares.. Right?

BK2K hung around for a couple months before I got bored and shopped it around, eventually selling it. Meteor stuck around until I needed to free up space (LOVED that game) and EBD ended up getting new Shay glass and plastics, a hardtop ordered, a Pinball Pimp stencil kit, jet black powdercoated *everything*, and a promise that it was going absolutely nowhere.

It's the only machine from that original pick that hasn't been expendable and it's the only one I deemed worthy of dumping a bunch of money into. And yet, it was the red headed stepchild, for me, from that pick. I look back on this Facebook thread every so often and just laugh because I was so far off.

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Time to finally resolve the bankshot mini-post placement. I spent an afternoon going back and forth between the old and new pf and discovered that there is enough mis-registration of the graphics to make it difficult to gauge placement of the post. So pulled out the calipers and some translucent sheetstock and went back and forth another bunch of times. Does this tentative placement look anywhere near where you guys have planted the post ?? As with so many things in this life, the first penetration seems to be the most difficult ; )

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IMO it's a little too close to the clear plastic. Risk of cracking or chipping.

Tnx. Right now that post is just dry-placed (no hole). When fully sunk, the top of the post is a few mm below that clear plastic. Hows the R-L position look to you?

Anybody in the South Jersey area do playfield swaps? I just ordered a CPR playfield.

I'm about to tear into a beat nonworking EBDle I picked up and had a question on PF posts. I've tried to search for what post heights are needed and have only seen guesses on the amount of tall and short posts. Anyone know the amounts of each? 22 long 1 3/16 and 10 short 1"?

Also, does anyone have any working displays they'd like to sell?

L and R looked good to me, usually centered between the 2 lanes. I would move it forward about an 1/8 of an inch.

Does anyone know if it is possibly to set all the specials to novelty (score 50k) but leave the left orbit extra ball shot to award an extra ball? In the manual it looks like you are forced to set both extra ball & special to replay, x-ball, or novelty. I don't think you can single out just the extra ball?
Because replay is pointless at home, & extra ball for every special is just too much.

Ya, I don't think that's possible with the original Bally code. While replay is kinda pointless at home, I leave mine on for several reasons (all nostalgic):

- I love the knocker sound. Sends me back immediately to the early 80's as a teenager in the arcade. Getting a three-knocker for making D-E-L-U-X-E or getting the high score is especially satisfying.

- I don't like the novelty scoring or the multitude of extra balls (just the left orbit) because the scoring gets high enough for me that I roll it past 9,999,990. I have mine set to 5 balls, just like the one I played at the arcade so the scores then and now are "consistent" for me. Plus my family prefers 5-ball (I begrudgingly put our BKSOR and STPRO on 5-ball via family democratic vote). They let me keep the original Black Knight and STTNG on 3-ball because they don't play those two very much (and when I played them in the arcades in my youth, those were always set to 3-ball).

- I like to play a "game within a game". I'll start off with 5 credits and try to run it up to the max 40 credits before losing them all down to 0 credits. It makes for a fun challenge for me, I get to hear my knocker, and my family is happy with 5 balls per game. The only annoying thing is running up the credits to 20-something and after my family plays, it's back down to 10 credits and I've got to build it up again.

No. You would need custom software to do so. It wouldn't be difficult to modify for someone that knows how, I think it was already done for some titles actually. I know Mystic it has been as well as some of the earlier -17 titles.

I know replays and specials are pointless if you have the keys, but I still shoot for them. I usually don't stop playing a game until I win a replay or two (especially on older EM's)

I really only chase DELUXE letters. Can't beat the satisfaction of capturing one of those. The family gets into it every now and then. Here was Easter this year. Brought it out in the porch.

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Tnx! I nudged it forward 1/8" and it's looking good. Gonna bite the bullet tomorrow and commence to drilling. A little nod to the pinball gods...

gb

Take your time. Use a pilot point bit if you have one. You can also use a small pointy punch to start the hole so the bit has less chance of walking.

Does anyone have pictures/part numbers/whatever handy on just how the heck the pop area is assembled? I have absolutely no idea if I ordered all the necessary parts and I'm pretty confused on how those giant holes are covered. I was going to try adapting a different set to my game but without understanding how it assembles I'm kind of up a creek on both sides. The manual wasn't particularly helpful..

This may help.

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Did I somehow miss this in the manual?!

Thanks!

The user manual is kinda bare with regards to parts info....there are specific Bally part manuals available online:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Parts_Catalogs

Thanks a ton!

Now to figure out how to adapt this thing...

Somewhere deep in the HEP thread, Chris put different pop bodies and caps on a Centaur (which uses the same modular bases) and there is a bit of a how to. Search in there.

Thank you a bunch! I'm gonna go dig for that.

Welp. No luck. Maybe I'm not looking in the right thread?

WOW! I love that you put an 8 ball on the plunger! super! can you tell me how you did that?? I have lot of spare pool balls and would love to try that! thank you!

hi, since you know a lot about these machines, may I ask you a question? is it possible to reset the high score to zero? I just got a used one and would like to have it be just my scores.. please advise, Wendy

Yes. pg. 3 of manual. Use test button on coin door to activate sequences...
After test functions are by past, #01 in ball in play window should appear.
Read pg. 8... use cpu reset button or 3rd coin chute actuator to zero out functions...
You have to zero out each function independently.

I didn't put the 8 ball on my shooter rod. That's how it was when i bought it. You can find the 8 ball shooter rods online. Just can't remember where i've seen them

Anyone need this shit?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-ebd-spare-parts-50-shipped

First thing is to reflow the headers. Then, I would replace the digit resistors with half watt. Factory is quarter watt. That fixes alot of the issues. Then see where you are. I can't recall the resistor locations right now, but google bally pinball display repair and you will see the ones I'm referring to.

Starting the topside teardown here. I imagine just about every apron takes some wear over time. What are you guys dong with this? Leave it be, paint, selectively powder-coat ? Tnx ! Passing the half-way point on thw swap !!

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Check that the machine says Bally on it, then know that it is normal.

Following....I have an '84 as well (black apron) and it's seen better days. After re-painting the cabinet and putting in a hardtop, the rough looking apron stands out a bit. Haven't seen any decals for the '84 ( the '81, yes).

I recently refurbished my '84 EBD - repaint with some custom color choices for the interior cab, hardtop, new plastics/posts, and all metal bits tumbled and polished. Just for fun, I put in a Comet flex RGB LED under the clear rollover insert for the orbit lane. Slow color fade amber-green-blue-yellow-purple-white-red. I thought it would be an interesting change of pace and easily undone. The playfield hole for the rollover insert is tight enough that I can play games with it just sitting in there without having to epoxy. I think I'll leave this in for a while and if I don't like it, I'll just pop it out and put the original amber one back in.

What do you guys think?

I have the exact same thing in mine. Clear rollover, slow color changer from Comet. I really like it.

that book looks very handy, is there an eversion of it anywhere?

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/Pin%20Repair.pdf

Isn’t she pretty?!

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CPR says give it at least 30 days to cure. What’s the general consensus on storing these during that time? Flat, standing on end like the photo, standing long ways? Does it even matter?

I would say, store it in my basement

Store it flat on it back. Preferably under your bed, under the couch, or under a machine. You can put the brown paper it came in back on it to protect it from dust, but don't wrap it up tight. Just kinda gently lay it on top, so that the solvents can evaporate off and the clear can chemically cross-link.

Haha. I can’t believe how nice this thing is. Puts my old one to shame.

Sounds good, thanks.

The whites are so white

It’s hard to tell in the photo but they’re a little off white, not a bright white. I think they may have tweaked the color a little from what they used to be.

There has been a lot of argument about the white. Many purists believe it was originally a cream color. Like the way IPB did their repro.

CPR says no it should be white. I like the white. I haven't seen what Mirco did with that yet.