That's from completing a-b-c-d, not pop bumper hits. I assure you there is no pop bumper counter in the code

As for the pop bumpers, they score 1000 "normally", but completing the "ABCD" (or hitting the 8-ball) will cause a pop to start flashing - and flashing pops score 3000 instead. Each additional "ABCD" or 8-ball starts another pop flashing for that ball. They don't "increase the more you hit them".

The background sound (if enabled) will eventually increase if you hit enough "things" on the current ball - I don't know how/if the pop bumpers play into this, but it seems to be affected more by the bonus multiplier targets and the left loop lane than by anything else.

As for 3 ball vs. 5 ball, the scoring is really the same, with the exception that the recommended settings for 3 ball are different than 5 ball, but that's up to the operator.

LED recommendations?

GorillaBiscuits can you please explain the below to me? Will text you tomorrow.

I just did Comet 2SMD in sunlight in mine and it mostly went fine. What I did (with the game off obviously) is took a flat head and gently pried opened the wedge socket and the bulb fit in without too much fuss.

Newb note: DON'T replace the bulb under the playfield next to the solenoid expander board!

So I confirmed that my pop bumpers scored 1K when lit solid, slings scored 500, and that there were only 2 "rubber" switches by the pops that scored 30. All other scoring switches scored their proper value, usually in the thousands. I would have thought there would have been some 100 switches somewhere, but guess not...unless there is?

I believe that is all exactly as it should be.

I should probably post this in the tech forum but all of the sudden the ball has stopped kicking out during the game. It kicks out to start the game, but when it drains that’s it. It just stops. Solenoid test seems ok. Switch test shows no stuck switches. Any ideas where I should be looking? Thanks.

Edit. Seems like there a break somewhere with the outhole switch. Touching the contacts together doesn’t register on the switch test.

It's a problem with your outhole switch/wiring to it. When the ball drains during a game, the switch isn't sensed as closed.
At the start of a game, the outhole kicker solenoid activates regardless of whether the outhole switch is closed or not.

Thanks Quench. Yes, touching the outhole switch contacts together does not register anything on the switch test. I’m looking for a break or loose wire.

Switch had a broken Bakelite and the wires were all green and slimy. Fixed that up. Still not working. Diode tests ok although I didn’t change it. It looks like one of those glass diodes. I don’t have any of those. Can I use a 4004?

Edit: Also J2 on the MPU has been repinned. Alltek board.

C865B3D9-B784-4068-B598-A4323A316118 (resized).jpeg

You can use a 1N4004, but unless the glass 1N4148 diode is physically broken I doubt it's faulty.

The outhole switch has two wires, one probably comes from the left outlane switch, the other probably comes from the tilt switch located next to the right flipper mech.
Are both of these other switches working or not?

Quench you called it. Broken wire on the tilt switch. That fixed it. Thank you very much.

059FB931-5A67-43BC-ADC2-F0094F631097 (resized).jpeg

I'm about ready to start installing plastics and am wondering if others have encountered the same potential problem that I am. I have a CPR repro and am sizing up the Bank Shot plastics. Small diameter thru-holes are drilled and I'm finding that at least one seems several millimeters off. It's impossible to know exactly but just sighting from the top down thru the plastics suggests this. Anyone have to move any of those holes?? Tnx..

Can someone post the paint color codes? I'm planning repainting the cabinet with Sherwin-Williams automotive single-stage paint, but I imagine they can use other companies' codes.

Hey Everyone. I grabbed a grouping of items this weekend, mostly arcade PCBs, and in the lot was what appears to be a complete set of 8BD boards and a partial harness (and an extra Bally Solenoid board, -16 variety, as well as a Atari Auxiliary board).

Anyway, all is in pretty good shape but I don’t own an 8BD.... or a Bally pin for that matter. I’m a Williams pin guy but do own quite a few Bally Midway arcades.

Anyway, I digress. I believe they are 8BD as they visually match them and the S&T board has 8BD roms in it). The boards are untested but I’ll note that every arcade board I got from this lot works.

I’d be interested in selling as a lot and helping someone resurrect an 8BD project. I’m half thinking about keeping the S&T as it’s super clean. I have pictures of every individual board.

Let me know if there’s a good home out there as I’ll likely start posting them soon but wanted to start here first. Thanks

5BB19C3D-CC42-4444-87AE-12F4F3C99D72 (resized).jpeg

3B54F909-3B85-4F61-9AB8-3B654FE422EA (resized).jpeg

6F8DF9B8-B64C-45E7-B1E5-ED23F3EFB9C4 (resized).jpeg

C04EEBA6-6C86-4D5F-A3B8-E34C1C6BC74D (resized).jpeg

Ha, I have a playfield with a cut harness and could use that head half of the wiring. I have everything else but the S&T so if you part the set let me know.

Deleted. Post moved to tech forum.

Any tips on removing the large drop target bank assembly? The DELUXE targets switches need adjusting and I want to replace the old capacitors. I figured it would be much easier with the assembly removed.

It's actually one of the easiest assemblies to remove, at least on mine. My only experience is on the 1984 Classic version....I've never worked on the 1981 original version so I'm not sure if there are any differences. But on the 1984, one molex connector takes care of all the solenoid connections and ~6 screws will allow the assembly to be pulled out. If you don't want to desolder/resolder the 7 leaf switches, you could just unscrew them from the assembly (two screws each) and leave them dangling from the playfield while you work on the assembly on your bench.

Yeah I don’t really want to desolder 7 switches but I do want to change out those caps. I guess I would have to do those while they are dangling? How about the 2 coils? 1 on each end. Easier to desolder them or unscrew them and leave them dangling?

I checked my disassembly photos from my hardtop install and I misspoke....but it's better for you! The switches I removed (and left dangling) were from the in-line Bank Shot X targets, not the 7 target assembly.

On the 7 target assembly, the two coils on either end of the assembly AND all of the target switches are part of that one harness, all to a single molex, so no desoldering had to happen for anything to remove it. Just disconnect the molex, undo the screws holding the assembly to the bottom of the playfield, and it'll come right off.

Here's my 7-target assembly on my bench. Everything was scoring just fine, so I left the original caps on the switches and only put in new drop targets (the yellow targets cleaned up nice enough that I didn't bother replacing them, either).

IMG_8772 (resized).jpg

IMG_8773 (resized).jpg

Awesome. My yellow Deluxe targets are not scoring consistently so I figure changing the caps and adjusting the switches should do the trick. Thanks very much for your help and the pictures. I thought it was going to be difficult but it really doesn’t look bad at all now.

I'm confused by your pics. All the wiring for the yellow targets are still attached and I don't see the rest of the harness?

Ok I see now that you have a larger connector and I guess they are wired though it. Is that only on later EBD? 81 version only has a 9 pos connector for the memory coils.

I don't know...that's why I said in my original post that it looks pretty clean and easy on my 1984, but I don't have any maintenance experience on the original 1981 and I'm not sure if the drop target assembly is the same wrt the wiring harness. I imagine it could/would be different given the 1984 also has PCBs for groups of control lights, so maybe there have been other maintenance-friendly improvements in that later edition of the game.

ok, learned another difference between EBD versions I suppose. With the 81 version, if you need to drop the 7 bank, you have to remove the screws on the back plate where the 6 yellow targets are mounted. Leave the 4 L brackets in place which leaves the back plate attached to the PF. Either remove the reset coils or unsolder them and then the unit can be pulled straight down to remove.

I have done 3 EBD 81 version swaps so far. When I swap, I replace all switches, so doing the 6 yellow targets and installing new caps and diodes is a real ball buster when you are working right off of the maim harness. Lucky me I have 3 more lined up.

Ok, so it’s not going to be so easy after all. Oh well. I have to do it. Scoring on soft hits is inconsistent.

Maybe the switches just need cleaning. Try rubbing the contacts with a dollar bill per Steve Young's advice. If you have to get at the switches, the best and easiest thing to do is yank the pf out of the game and lay it flat somehow. Do as I described above in post #3227 and then remove the back plate from the PF, also remove the L brackets to get them out of the way then you can lift the switch plate out of the PF slot and lay it down to work on it. If you're gonna go through the trouble and are keeping the game for a while, I would replace the 6 yellow targets. PBR sells them for about $6.95 each. The hardest part of replacing those switches is the common bare wire along the bottom if you are going to reuse it it's a pain to desolder and remove it. Best to just use a new piece of trace wire and make some insulators from shrink tubing.

Thanks. I love this game. I’m keeping it so I was thinking about replacing the yellow targets while I’m in there. This looks like the part from PBR.

Edit. It looks like the solder lugs are oriented differently from the originals.

http://www.pbresource.com/switches/bly-ase2911y.jpg
1A51B823-4BB3-4594-A7CF-496DE484E6C8 (resized).png

Yes the solder lugs are slightly different since there is no exact replacement available. On some you may have to bend them slightly and also you may have to switch the side lug to face the other direction. You'll see what I mean when you get into it. The main thing to be concerned with is the thickness of the switch stack which from what I remember are very very close to original. I have also used these in different colors for other Bally titles with no issue.

Thanks for the info. Looks like I’ll be placing an order with PBR.

Hello all,

The ball kicker from my EBD was hacked at some point, using a spring and a long wood screw which is going through the playfield
You will note also that the coil is a Gottlieb...

Why do you think such hack would be done ?

1/ Should I go ahead and get rid of this screw/spring and replace it with a spring around the plunger? The part catalog calls for this spring: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-135

2/ Could someone share a picture of a correct ball kicker set up? Thanks!
IMG_20200803_111254 (resized).jpg

Ya, that looks kinda hinky. The only reason I could think of for a setup like that is if an operater was on location, did not have the correct plunger spring to fix an issue, and jury rigged any spring he could find in his tool box to keep the machine running and making money.

Here's my setup (pre-tear down/cleaning/hardtop install).
IMG_5871 (resized).jpg

Thanks! Makes sense. I'll add this spring to my (long) list of items to order.

What someone is calling the test lamp is actually a load lamp to make sure the solenoid expander operates. Anyway, the lamp looks missing to me. But that does not answer your brown wire question. solid Brown should be for the flipper power. no idea why it's tied up under the expander board.

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

Do you have the other color code for the other color? (I'm assuming black is black.)

Here she is fellas 'EBD1268" just finished this past weekend.

New Stencil kit and repainted cabinet
New CPR GOLD playfield (Also clear coated)
New Boards throughout
Every light bayonet and light replaced (EVERYONE ONE OF THEM)
New legs and Casters
Original white caps and pops replaced
New plastics
New blue posts
ETC ETC............

Mission Accomplished!

IMG_3121 (resized).JPG

Sweet! I have EED1376 in cue to restore plus 2 more.

I'm replacing the socket of the GI playfield bulbs, with bayonet style.
Which depth of socket would you advise me to pick ? The choice will have an impact on how much of the bulb is sticking out of the playfield

Here are the models I found on pbresource:
sockets (resized).JPG

I've never done this myself, but since the original wedge base sockets are pretty flush with the top of the playfield surface, you'd probably want the top of the bayonet socket edge as close to the underside mounting bracket as possible to get that same flushness or maybe even slightly below the surface. Bally E120-81 looks pretty close to do that. What are there...40 something GI sockets? Maybe buy a few samples and try them out?

I would insert a bulb into the socket and measure it compared to the 555. Or use the larger round hole on the pf to compare the height.

If staying with incans you don't want the lamps to be too close to the underside of the plastics.

Jesus that looks amazing. I know the LEGIT white pop caps are unobtanium and absolutely stupid price... so.. is anyone aware of GENERIC, BLANK WHITE caps? I would be willing to try stenciling the art in place to get them 'close'.

I'm not turning much up in my search for them.. Or are these caps a completely different style altogether? FLASHBALL look at this gorgeous thing!

Caps (resized).JPG

I want them as well. About 10 years ago a guy wanted 100 for each cap wo the rings so I passed. I have the rings. A guy in cally was going to make them but it went nowhere. I have seen a decal for the cap art and that's it. There is a mold for them because somebody is making all kinds of bally repro caps but no white yet sadly.

I neeeeeeed them

Beautiful. We need a closeup of those white caps.

Took down pics because they were a little blurry, will take better pics and repost.

The White caps were custom made and the graphics were laser printed by the guy who rebuilt the machine for me.

After looking at the original flyer I had to go with the white caps!

I need to make this happen too. Definitely.