Iirc those coils are controlled by the solenoid expander board. Try re-seating the connector.

No need for resistors on GI lamps. They are not switched.

You didn't happen to put a LED in the socket near the solenoid expander board under the playfield did you? That will mess things up. It has to be an incandescent bulb.

I reseated the connector. The connector was replaced at one point. I didnt do any soldering in that area either. Speaking of which, I must've gotten a game that the intern worked on because the solder jobs are bad.

No changes. When the 4 bank solenoid should fire, it fires the 2 ball target; saucer fires the ball bank reset; and outhole fires the 1 ball target.

I did . I swapped an incandescent back in. What damage would I have done? Still behaves the same after the incandescent was put back in. Why is that even there?

No resistors on GI.

Sounds like you installed a LED under the playfield next to the Solenoid Expander Board (SEB). You must use an old fashioned incandescent lamp there otherwise the expander board cannot switch to those solenoids you're missing.
Alternatively solder an 82 ohm 1 Watt resistor across that lamp socket next to the SEB and never worry about blown lamps causing the SEB not to work.

I did and replaced the bulb with an incandescent. How do I get the proper solenoids to fire at this point?

Is that lamp flashing in lamp test mode? If yes, the solenoid expander should click when that lamp illuminates. If not, maybe you installed a faulty incandescent?

The lamp does not light in lamp test mode. The lamp does work in a working socket.

This bulb, right?

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Looks like the two thin blue wires tab has bent and shorted against the metal tab that screws the socket to the playfield where lamp power is connected.

I checked that and it isnt shorted against anything.

It's just a switched feature lamp connected to the lamp driver board.

Do you have 6 VDC on the screwed tab?
If you temporarily jumper a wire from the two thin blue wires to ground, does the lamp illuminate?
Do you have continuity from the thin blue wire to the lamp driver board at pin 11 of J3?
Does grounding the metal tab of SCR Q54 on the lamp driver board illuminate the lamp?
Does connecting a jumper wire from test point TP3 on the lamp driver board to the "Gate" leg of SCR Q54 illuminate the lamp?

Sorry I've got to head off, but answers to these will help you or someone else pinpoint it.

Do you have 6 VDC on the screwed tab?
I have 7.0 V

If you temporarily jumper a wire from the two thin blue wires to ground, does the lamp illuminate?
Yes

Do you have continuity from the thin blue wire to the lamp driver board at pin 11 of J3?
Yes

Does grounding the metal tab of SCR Q54 on the lamp driver board illuminate the lamp?
No

Does connecting a jumper wire from test point TP3 on the lamp driver board to the "Gate" leg of SCR Q54 illuminate the lamp?
No

Can i presume that i need to replace SCR Q54?

It's possible q54 is dead. Also could be cold solder joint on lamp driver header pins and/or SEB header pins. Verify bulb is good. Verify continuity from socket contact to the screwed base and to solder tab of socket. The socket could be bad. Put game into lamp test. Open back box and put some pressure on the J3 connector and look for any change in the lamp behavior. Also put pressure on SEB connector while do the lamp test.

Just realized you have a new alltek board so the header pins should be fine.
But still could be a connector issue.

Since the aeb lamp did not light when jumpered I suspect bad bulb or bad socket.

The Seb controls 6 circuits and the relay switches the line back and forth from 3 circuits to the other when called for. Sounds like yours isn't switching.

1 line of the seb controls the 7 bank reset, the ball 2,10 memory coil and the ball 1,9 memory coil reset coil. The other line controls the saucer eject, outsole coiland the inline 4 bank DT reset coil. Did you change out any coils?

Try to jump solder tab of a working lamp while in lamp test to the solder tab of the seb lamp. It should light if socket is connected properly and the socket and bulb is good.

Is the credit indicator lamp under the apron working?

So you have voltage at the socket which is good.

So the lamp and socket are working.

Can you confirm that it's the same thin blue wire? I see an error on the schematics with this wire at the SEB connection.

The Q54 metal tab which is the middle pin of the SCR connects directly to pin 11 of J3 on the lamp driver board. If grounding the metal tab doesn't illuminate the SEB lamp you have an open circuit between the Q54 metal tab and the J3-11 connector.
This is not a fault of the Q54 SCR.
You can check it by going to lamp test mode. Jumper a long wire from the thin blue wires on the lamp socket to the metal tab of Q54.

Thanks for the help guys! I will do more investigation/rework later today and will report back. I don't have any of those SCRs on-hand, but it appears that there are a few unused ones that I can swap around.

The alltec board is the SDB, the lamp board is still factory. When I ground the tab of the lamp, the lamp lights and I can hear the relay on the SEB clicking.

I will have to take off the lamp board to investigate anyway, so I will see if there's continuity between the tab of the SCR to the pin. Maybe I wasn't jumpering the wire properly, plug I was having my just-turned-5 yr old tell me if the lamp was lighting or not, so my assistant may have been a bit under-qualified

So grounding the metal tab to the rail doesnt light the lamp, but connecting the tab with the blue wires to the metal tab on Q54 does light the lamp.

Uhhhhh yeah....

20200713_155430 (resized).jpg

Time for a jumper wire

I repaired it with a jumper wire and now the light is on all the time and the ball bank reset coils dont work. Looking again at the schematic, I cant find any of those SCRs that are unused, so I'll probably have to order some.

I assume that the gate isnt working on that SCR?

Swipe the one from the 2nd "E" backbox letter it's not like that one lights too often so you can at least get going.

I wonder what took out the trace in the first place?

Probably me putting an LED bulb in the socket pictured above?

Almost ready to call my EBDLE refurb done. The mpu is original and came with a memory cap. It has been losing the settings upon power down, but the sounds remained fine, meaning when I powered up, it had background music and all that (setting 18 at 03). I vacuumed the cabinet out and powered on again and it gave me a ding when crediting up, so that sounded weird. Setting 18 was reverted to 0. Figured I needed to put in a lithium cell anyway, so I pulled the mpu and added a lithium cell with blocking diode. Battery measures 3.2v out of the holder. 2.9v when measuring through the diode. Put the mpu back in the game, set 18 to 03. Play a game, all is well. Power down. Let it set a minute and power back up. 18 is at 0 again. I just put the same battery/holder/diode in my City Slicker and all is fine. Thinking that means the 5101 is bad. This original mpu is immaculate. No battery corrosion at all, btw.

EDIT: Pulled and reseated the 5101 and things are working fine now. Changed settings. Played a few games and powered down and back up several times and it is retaining all the info. Likely need a new socket for the ram.

Hello fellers. I've been busy for several years and am back to restoring my 1981 #EBD. I have replaced all the boards with Allteks and put in a Rottendog rectifier. Don't want to nickel and dime myself for years to come. Just want it running damn good for good. Right now my issue is the Squawk & Talk. 1. Do they even make a replacement for it? I have no speech/sounds, LED stays on / no flashes. I'm sure everything's bad on it. Is there a new board out there? or will I have to go through every single checklist on this board, fixing and buying, repairing, soldering to high hell? I will be also putting in a HARDTOP with new plastics as the playfield is normal for a 40 yr old unloved piece of furniture. Please let me know! 2. Also, what is the best way to change out the under playfield bulbs with LEDs? If I try to unscrew each screw to each bulb holder to access it, it pulls away and hard on the ground wire that connects them all...(each is soldered onto the screw). How do you get in there?! Thanks for your help!

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I would start with the complete sound board cap kit from Big Daddy. Get the kit with the 2 pots included. It’s $15. I’m not aware of any replacement boards for this. As far as the bulbs, you should be able to remove all of the bulbs from the top of the playfield. They are 555 wedge bulbs. Just pull them straight out, do not twist.

Thanks for your help! Also thanks to everyone who PM'd me about this! I'll start working on it.

Reproduction sound boards can be found here. Email Jim and ask him for availability.
Mypinballs.com

Their S&T is out of stock. Apparently due to the NLA TMS 5200 speech chip. I bought one of these years ago but never needed to install it yet. Price was way more when I got it.

My last email to Jim was on June 11th of 2020. He says he has 25 more ready to go here real soon.

Ok great.

I totally forgot that I put in to be contacted when back in stock. I didn't see his reply on June 6 since the email came on a different mail server but he confirmed 25 more getting made. What's cool about his board there are dip switches replacing the jumper wires so it's much easier to transfer the board to different games, just need to swap the EPROMS. There's a jumper setting list for S&T on Pinwiki, Bally/Stern section.

Sweet thanks. I'll look into it.

I have something here maybe someone can identify. There's a brown wire cut off coming out from under the Solenoid Expander Assembly under PF. Don't know if its someone's hack or its something needed that's broken. It is soldered to a ground screw with a bunch of others under it. What is this? Someone has written "Lamp Test Socket" on the board. I guess that's what it is?

thanks!

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Scored a sweet 1981 EBD and looking for the hinges for the back box. Please PM any leads/suggestions. Thanks in advance.

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Replaced all my capacitors and pots on my S&T board. IT WORKS!! RACK EM UP! thanks!

Awesome! Good job. Welcome to the club.

Is it just me, or does this game score a lot of 1K and 500 pt increments? I see a lot of XXX,000 scores or XXX,500 scores. Occasionally a XXX,030 or XXX,530 score (I think one of the switches by the pops scores 30 pts.) Just making sure that my scoring is correct!

never really took notice of scoring. I always focus on getting the 8 ball, Deluxe targets and bank shot. It would be easy though to just remove the glass and observe the scoring as stated on the PF compared to what you get when activating the switches. I think the 2 rebound switches at the right of the pop bumpers is a low score, and maybe the slings? But the final score is determined by the match at the end, so you should see an odd number like 30, 40 etc. Could also be 00. Unless the match function is turned off.

The next time someone plays, let me know what types of points you're getting. I thought that pops and slings would score in the hundreds, but maybe not. I haven't played this game enough to know exactly what scores what. I'll have to double check mine again, I just found it odd.

Slings are definitely 10 points. They have to have 10 point switches or else the match number would never work since it looks at the last 2 score positions 00-90.

No, the slings score 30 points - which still lets them get any combination for matching purposes.

No, they score 500

Check it out.

I thought they were 30 as well..... although I did try it in pinmame not in the machine itself. I think the rubber switches at the top score 30, giving you the match randomness... that's also probably why you see so many scores of 500/1000, people don't really shoot on purpose into that area.

Now, go play Space Invaders - where's the 10 points switch? There is none.... 00/50 only (although there is a hacked rom to change some of the 50 scoring to 10)

I remember learning that on a youtube video about SI. Man, now I gotta go play a game by hand tonight on EBD lol. Learn something new all the time.

Yes, I believe you are correct after all. I remembered that there was no 10 point switch, and that they used a 30 point switch to get the last digits to change.

I was thinking it was the slings that did this, but now I believe you are right and it is the switches that surround the pop bumpers that are the 30 point ones.

Interesting, keep learning pin stuff from Slochar

I do know this from EBD when I was trying to figure out a switching problem after doing an EBD swap. Continuous hits to the pop bumpers on a single ball will result in the scoring to increase the more you hit them. I guess it's like a progression. The back ground sounds will change as this occurs.

Also some scoring could be changed between having a 3 ball game as opposed to a 5 ball game. I know F2K does this...