(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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There are 5,666 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 114.
#3101 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Here's a little twist that I haven't seen publicized to date. There's a mini-post just to the right of the upper ball guides. On my '84 machine, it is a non-thru-hole screw type (with no sign of damage at/about the area). On surveying the same area on the CPR board, this appears to be a thru-hole for a T-nut. Anyone else seen this? How did you resolve it? Imagine a # 6 or 8 threaded mini-post does the job but wanted to hear what others have done. Tnx..
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have seen stranger things but yes it should be a through hole mini post. I believe 8-32 thread, an external tooth lock washer and a nut. It looks like they ran out at the factory because you have the hole there but no evidence that there was a threaded post there. Perhaps someone just lazy.

#3102 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

.
It's funny that I see the SBA slot sometimes on the far right slot and sometimes the center slot on Bally games. I think the right is actually correct because of the plastic containers inside the coin box being 2 sizes. If you were to use the center slot, your SBA's would land in the .25 bin. Stern, on the other hand has 3 plastics bins with a smaller one that fits in the center and the .25 bins on either side. Besides the SBA coin mech you will need to remove the small set screw at the end of the coin shute. Also you will need the metal coin slot that has the longer opening or maybe file the .25 a little longer. Finally there is a small metal diverter at the opening where the coin falls from the shute just before hitting the trip wire. It's just a flat piece of metal, very small. The .25 opening has it also but it is offset to prevent a SBA or larger coin from passing through. Check your door for that as it may already be in there.

Thanks for the info. It looks like I only have the .25 parts inside my coin door. Big Daddy had the SBA mech for $10 so I figured what the heck. I may not go any further with it. It may just be for show as I plan to keep it on free play. Nice to have options though if I want it to be more original.

#3103 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Here's a little twist that I haven't seen publicized to date. There's a mini-post just to the right of the upper ball guides. On my '84 machine, it is a non-thru-hole screw type (with no sign of damage at/about the area). On surveying the same area on the CPR board, this appears to be a thru-hole for a T-nut. Anyone else seen this? How did you resolve it? Imagine a # 6 or 8 threaded mini-post does the job but wanted to hear what others have done. Tnx..
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you have a wood screw mini post, then I would take a dowel and glue-n-plug the hole.
After it dries, mark the center/test fit, and drill a new smaller hole...

#3104 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

.
It's funny that I see the SBA slot sometimes on the far right slot and sometimes the center slot on Bally games. I think the right is actually correct because of the plastic containers inside the coin box being 2 sizes. If you were to use the center slot, your SBA's would land in the .25 bin. Stern, on the other hand has 3 plastics bins with a smaller one that fits in the center and the .25 bins on either side. Besides the SBA coin mech you will need to remove the small set screw at the end of the coin shute. Also you will need the metal coin slot that has the longer opening or maybe file the .25 a little longer. Finally there is a small metal diverter at the opening where the coin falls from the shute just before hitting the trip wire. It's just a flat piece of metal, very small. The .25 opening has it also but it is offset to prevent a SBA or larger coin from passing through. Check your door for that as it may already be in there.

So if I do find all the necessary parts, (I also need a micro switch) how would I get this to work? Is there a specific way to set up this SBA mech so that it would add exactly 5 credits instead of 4 or 6 credits?

#3105 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

So if I do find all the necessary parts, (I also need a micro switch) how would I get this to work? Is there a specific way to set up this SBA mech so that it would add exactly 5 credits instead of 4 or 6 credits?

CPU Dip switch settings

#3106 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

CPU Dip switch settings

Very good. Thanks.

#3107 3 years ago

Finally finished the shop out on this bad boy! Flipper/Pop bumper rebuilds, new pop caps, and drops have her looking nice. Good enough for route I think...

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#3108 3 years ago

Happy to have had the opportunity to join the club over the weekend with an LE. It's been on my list for a while and happy to get EBD in either classic form or LE form.

After a brief looking over, I notice that most, if not all of the lamps are wedge base. I want to fit this game with LEDs; do these still strobe like crazy without an LED board?

#3109 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I want to fit this game with LEDs; do these still strobe like crazy without an LED board?

Same lamp driver boards so yes, some LEDs will flicker without using one of the few solutions going around.

#3110 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Same lamp driver boards so yes, some LEDs will flicker without using one of the few solutions going around.

Thanks Quench! Is there a way to solder a resistor onto the wedge socket? Would I do it across the leads?

#3111 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Is there a way to solder a resistor onto the wedge socket?

You should be able to solder resistors directly across the socket where the connections go into the base. You may have to sand the connections though to get the solder to stick.
Not sure if the LE has any twist socket lamp boards but you could solder the resistors directly on the board.

#3112 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Thanks Quench! Is there a way to solder a resistor onto the wedge socket? Would I do it across the leads?

Yes I think it's a 470 ohm resistor IIRC. But it's a lot of work since there's something like 70 some controlled lamps on ebd? And if doing that I would swap out the 555 sockets to bayonet since modern LED 555 lamps are not very user friendly with the original sockets. I know this from experience. They are very tight fitting and difficult to insert the lamps.

#3113 3 years ago

I just remembered that you have the LE and that has lamp boards with twist sockets. Adding resistors may be difficult to do.

#3114 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Adding resistors may be difficult to do.

Just solder them like so:

EBD_TwistSocketResistor.jpgEBD_TwistSocketResistor.jpg

#3115 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I just remembered that you have the LE and that has lamp boards with twist sockets. Adding resistors may be difficult to do.

It is possible to solder the resistor on the outside of the twist socket across the two exposed contacts.

#3116 3 years ago

I recently had a hardtop put on my EBD pf and I am now installing leds everywhere. What is the secret to getting them plugged in to the awful 555 sockets? I have tried filing the bulb base and using a small clamp to force them in. Slow and ineffective to say the least.

#3117 3 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

I recently had a hardtop put on my EBD pf and I am now installing leds everywhere. What is the secret to getting them plugged in to the awful 555 sockets? I have tried filing the bulb base and using a small clamp to force them in. Slow and ineffective to say the least.

The bulb has to be perfectly aligned with the socket. Wiggle the lamp until it starts to go in, Maybe a small amount of bulb grease might help? What brand are you using?

#3118 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The bulb has to be perfectly aligned with the socket. Wiggle the lamp until it starts to go in, Maybe a small amount of bulb grease might help? What brand are you using?

Comet. Some go in kinda ok, others are a pain. What horrible sockets.

#3119 3 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Finally finished the shop out on this bad boy! Flipper/Pop bumper rebuilds, new pop caps, and drops have her looking nice. Good enough for route I think...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful job!

#3120 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I just remembered that you have the LE and that has lamp boards with twist sockets. Adding resistors may be difficult to do.

Only some of the LE's have the lamp board twist sockets. The early LE's have the individual sockets like the '81 EBDs do. Not sure where the cutoff between the "old" and "new" version LE's were though.

#3121 3 years ago

Mine has lamp boards with twist sockets in them. I don't mind doing the work. A resistor is a penny or less, otherwise the addon boards are $45 and $30 for the main lamp board and an aux, lamp board (I thought I saw one). I already have the resistors, so I should be good there.

Quoted from Quench:

You should be able to solder resistors directly across the socket where the connections go into the base. You may have to sand the connections though to get the solder to stick.
Not sure if the LE has any twist socket lamp boards but you could solder the resistors directly on the board.

I will have to take a closer look to see what's exposed/not exposed. If it's too difficult to access and solder, then I will just have to plunk down the money to get the boards.

#3122 3 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

What is the secret to getting them plugged in to the awful 555 sockets? I have tried filing the bulb base and using a small clamp to force them in. Slow and ineffective to say the least.

I used a 10mm nut driver, works pretty well but you do have to have the bulb at dead center of the socket. Takes a little practice.

#3123 3 years ago

EBD Fans,

CPR - EIGHT BALL DELUXE Playfields 2020

First time back since 2017 !

Many of you may have been waiting for these. Finally, after a ton of work, we successfully converted the Margaret Hudson playfield films into a new master layout we can now use going forward. Having only old analog film positives, they had been holding us back from making EBD playfields for a while, under our new short run model. So from now on, we can make and re-make batches of EBD playfields, to attempt to keep these popping in & out of stock for years into the future. Half the current batch just emerged from clearcoat, so we're taking orders and shipping now. The rest are on their way shortly. We'll see how fast these go.

As usual, SHIPMENT CONFIGURATION is offered, allowing bundle-pricing for EBD backglass, EBD plastics, and/or EBD topper.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/ebd-playfield-kit/

Thx

- KEVIN

Classic Playfield Reproductions
http://www.classicplayfields.com

EBD Homepage 2020.jpgEBD Homepage 2020.jpg

#3124 3 years ago

Went in head over heels when I started this EBD hardtop for my friend. Got stuck on some insert replacements, frustrated while trying to fill unnecessary holes, then took a while trying to get the glass smooth wet sanding done on the inserts. I've finally moved on past the inserts and now I'm midway through the shooter lane. Picked up some Durham's to fill a small gouge in the shooter lane. Hopefully I get the results I'm expecting out of this. Anyone ever used Durham's and have a good experience? It's been recommended from repair help groups so I'm just going to see how it goes. Then it's off to clearcoating the shooter lane before laying the Hardtop.

Wish me luck.

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#3125 3 years ago

Who the hell puts a hole in a shooter lane! Anyway, I think I read on some hardtop threads guys are clearing over the inserts as well.

#3126 3 years ago

What sucks the most is that this lane LOOKED like it would be an easier fix than my high speed was (that lane looked SHOT IMO), but it's been anything but. Those dark spots have really proven to be frustrating to deal with.

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#3127 3 years ago

Quick color question to the community... Is there a commercially available paint which is more or less matching the cream/custard color of the 81 cabinet ?

#3128 3 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

Quick color question to the community... Is there a commercially available paint which is more or less matching the cream/custard color of the 81 cabinet ?

I used Gloss Ivory from Rust-Oleum.

#3129 3 years ago

I'm in need of a couple (2) OEM T-nuts. Anyone have a stash ?

#3130 3 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

Quick color question to the community... Is there a commercially available paint which is more or less matching the cream/custard color of the 81 cabinet ?

Since these games fade and age in different atmospheres I think your best bet would be to color match at a paint store. Hope you still have some pieces left.

To me the cream color on ebd has a green hue. For full repaints I have use Sherwin Wms "New Sprout" For cream and "Brass Tack" for the gold. I found a good selection at Benjamin Moore also. I can't remember the names but I will re-post when I find the samples.

#3131 3 years ago

I think rustoleum canvas white is close to the original color. Whatever kind of paint Bally used on those aged badly. I had a good example of one that must not have seen the light of day and I was surprised how light the cream color was. Sometimes if you see a good original apron they haven’t aged as badly as the wood and the color is almost an off white.

#3132 3 years ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I think rustoleum canvas white is close to the original color. Whatever kind of paint Bally used on those aged badly. I had a good example of one that must not have seen the light of day and I was surprised how light the cream color was. Sometimes if you see a good original apron they haven’t aged as badly as the wood and the color is almost an off white.

Yeah the cream color on ebd is weird. I have seen it look yellow to almost white. But I do see a little green on most of them. I haven't found a good match in a rattle can but I will check out the canvas white. Another trick to find original colors is to remove a piece of coin door trim or side rail.

#3133 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yeah the cream color on ebd is weird. I have seen it look yellow to almost white. But I do see a little green on most of them.

I confirm the hint of green. I think when you do a full paint job, going with some "ivory" or "off white" or any other creamy color is good. However, in my case, I just want to refresh the backglass frame and the side of my backbox, without touching the stenciled parts of the cabinet... So the color I use must match as much as possible the rest of my cabinet, which aged. I tried to color match with a sample book from Shermin-Williams and found out "lime gelato" was quite a good match.
lime-gelato (resized).jpglime-gelato (resized).jpg

#3134 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

I'm in need of a couple (2) OEM T-nuts. Anyone have a stash ?

Multiple sizes. Need to know which. I believe I have 6/32 and 8/32. Let me know.

#3135 3 years ago

Anyone want to race some EBD goals? You should try to beat these (very beatable) times:

https://speedrunpinball.com/eight-ball-deluxe/

Just a fun way to keep things competitive during these weird times. And it's fun.

#3136 3 years ago
Quoted from mab487:

Anyone want to race some EBD goals? You should try to beat these (very beatable) times:
https://speedrunpinball.com/eight-ball-deluxe/
Just a fun way to keep things competitive during these weird times. And it's fun.

Nice Initials...

#3137 3 years ago
Quoted from KevinCPR:

EBD Fans,
CPR - EIGHT BALL DELUXE Playfields 2020
First time back since 2017 !

Just ordered mine. You’ve been cranking out all the right titles lately. Only one left I need, is Dolly Parton.

#3138 3 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

Quick color question to the community... Is there a commercially available paint which is more or less matching the cream/custard color of the 81 cabinet ?

Sherwin Williams
I painted the frame on the backbox and looks fabulous

ebd paint (resized).jpgebd paint (resized).jpg
#3139 3 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

Quick color question to the community... Is there a commercially available paint which is more or less matching the cream/custard color of the 81 cabinet ?

I took my apron to the paint store and cooler matched the underside of the apron. Came out great.

#3140 3 years ago

I went ahead with the "lime gelato", a $4 paint sample being plenty enough for the backbox frame... and no big risk painting the top of the backbox to get an idea...
paint (resized).JPGpaint (resized).JPG
...and it's definitely a very good match!

#3141 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

.
It's funny that I see the SBA slot sometimes on the far right slot and sometimes the center slot on Bally games. I think the right is actually correct because of the plastic containers inside the coin box being 2 sizes. If you were to use the center slot, your SBA's would land in the .25 bin. Stern, on the other hand has 3 plastics bins with a smaller one that fits in the center and the .25 bins on either side. Besides the SBA coin mech you will need to remove the small set screw at the end of the coin shute. Also you will need the metal coin slot that has the longer opening or maybe file the .25 a little longer. Finally there is a small metal diverter at the opening where the coin falls from the shute just before hitting the trip wire. It's just a flat piece of metal, very small. The .25 opening has it also but it is offset to prevent a SBA or larger coin from passing through. Check your door for that as it may already be in there.

I got the SBA coin mech all wired up and the coin won’t drop. I can get it to eject though. I don’t see this small set screw or metal diverter you mentioned. Do you have a picture?

I don’t know if these little metal sliders things are set correctly.

7FF6689A-3238-4BD2-8047-FE636437087B (resized).jpeg7FF6689A-3238-4BD2-8047-FE636437087B (resized).jpeg13DDFAED-9A25-4F48-9998-6C9C37F1793E (resized).jpeg13DDFAED-9A25-4F48-9998-6C9C37F1793E (resized).jpeg
#3142 3 years ago

I got it working. That long metal slide tab was out of adjustment.

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#3143 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

I got it working. That long metal slide tab was out of adjustment.
[quoted image]

Good deal. The set screw would have been towards the end of the coin chute. Since the coin has dropped it was removed or never been there but you will see the hole for it.

#3144 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Good deal. The set screw would have been towards the end of the coin chute. Since the coin has dropped it was removed or never been there but you will see the hole for it.

Yes I see it now. It looks like the screw was there at one point on the 25 cent chute but it was removed. On the SBA chute, there is no hole. I know I’ve had these chutes off before and they’ve probably been switched around. The SBA coin won’t even fit in the quarter slot and the quarter rejects on the SBA mech like it should.

I would like to find the correct coin box for it now.

#3145 3 years ago

What is the correct hardware to attach the linear slingshot brackets to the wood? These brackets come loose all the time. It looks like they are missing something. Either a star washer or a screw with some kind of washer built into it.

4960B26E-91E5-4C2B-88B3-E510D46F7D35 (resized).jpeg4960B26E-91E5-4C2B-88B3-E510D46F7D35 (resized).jpegC315D1CA-1456-4EA2-9693-8B2C7602D819 (resized).jpegC315D1CA-1456-4EA2-9693-8B2C7602D819 (resized).jpeg
#3146 3 years ago

How is the wood underneath? You might have to fill the hole with a toothpick or use a bigger screw.

#3147 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

How is the wood underneath? You might have to fill the hole with a toothpick or use a bigger screw.

I did have to do the toothpick trick on one of the screws. The rest of the screws tighten without stripping. But they just keep working their way loose with the vibration. It looks like there was some kind of star washer at some point. Now the screws just have a flat washer. There’s quite a mishmash of screws and star washers on this game on the flippers and the slings.

#3148 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

What is the correct hardware to attach the linear slingshot brackets to the wood? These brackets come loose all the time. It looks like they are missing something. Either a star washer or a screw with some kind of washer built into it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Note: Bally linear kickers are mounted with #8 sheet metal screws.
------ However, they are faulty to handle the constant horizontal impact of the assembly.
------ To fix, best practice is to bump up to a hex head #10 sheet metal screws.

#3149 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: Bally linear kickers are mounted with #8 sheet metal screws.
------ However, they are faulty to handle the constant horizontal impact of the assembly.
------ To fix, best practice is to bump up to a hex head #10 sheet metal screws.

Thanks vect-tor. I’ll do that and maybe add some tooth washers to resist the vibration. I’ll do the same with the flippers.

#3150 3 years ago

I'm having a bit of a problem. I swapped Comet LEDs into my game. Added resistors to the twist sockets, but the rest of them seem to be ok. No resistors on the GI but those are LED also. Now, I'm having problems with 3 solenoids. The outhole kicker, the saucer kicker, and the 4 bank reset. Running through solenoid test, when the game calls for these 3 solenoids, they fire different solenoids instead. I checked underneath the PF, and cant see any obvious shorts. It was playing fine before the LED swap. Any thoughts?

It has an alltek solenoid driver board.

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